Dumb air compressor question

[Illini Pete]

Hey Guys,

I recently purchased an 80 gal, 175 psi max, 2 stage IR compressor and am in the process of plumbing the air lines. I want to install a regulator at the compressor to reduce the pressure below 175 psi so that I can use various filters and other accessories that are rated at something below 175 psi. My dumb question is do I have to use a regulator that is rated at 175 psi or greater or can I use a regulator and gauge that is rated at say 150 psi? What I'm asking is if I were to install a regulator/gauge rated at 150 psi would it blow when I turned on the compressor or can it reduce the 175 psi incoming pressure to 150 psi max outgoing?

Thanks!
Pete

 

[mghwah]

Air compressor components are usually rated for both operating ranges and maximum safe operation pressures.
So for example looking at grainger.com......a regulator can be rated for maximum of 150psi but then you look at the specifics and it can only be adjusted between 0-125 psi.

Get a regulator that equals the maximum pressure your compressor is rated for.

What I would do if I was you - Find a regulator that exceeds your 175psi compressor output.

I would not use the 150psi regulator unless you know without a doubt that it can withstand pressures above 150psi.

 

[toolslinger]

I have seen regulators that are rated to 200psi, but regulate to 150 max, so that sorta sounds like what you're looking for. I just did the same thing on a new Quincy, but I bought a regulator that is good to 200... The price wasn't really insane, so why take the chance? I regulate to 130 at the tank, and the other regulators downstream take it to whatever is needed on that hose.

 

[Illini Pete]

Thanks guys, you both pretty much confirmed what I thought. I have a regulator/filter/lubricator that I'd like to use on one of my tool outlets and it's rated at 150 psi so I think I'll get a regulator rated for 175 or more, mount it at the compressor and dial it back to about 150 which is plenty of pressure for what I need. I bought the compressor I did because of the flow rate and 80 gal tank more than the 175 psi.

Thanks again, Pete

 

[signcrafter]

Adjust your pressure switch on the compressor to shut off at 150 PSI then.

 

[Illini Pete]

Adjust your pressure switch on the compressor to shut off at 150 PSI then.

I don't think there's a pressure switch on the compressor

 

[CNGsaves]

Nice compressor. Decide what you want for working line pressure, and turn down compressor to that (ie compressor's own regulator, or add regulator). If you're using lots of air (ie big demand like sand blaster, air grinder, etc) then you'll want your airline pressure high anyway (say 150 psi) so that drop can be "wide-open" pressure of 150 psi.

Other drops that don't need that much pressure, then add F/R/L (filter, regulator, lubricator) combo unit for say your airline drop that has impact wrench, or just F/R (filter, regulator) if no oil is needed.

Good idea to invest in good quality airline system (ie copper or black pipe steel) that puts your compressor at least 15 or 20 ft away from your drops needing the driest air. This gives air time to cool off and drop out moisture.

Good luck and post up pics when you get system put together.

 

[All]

I don't think there's a pressure switch on the compressor

There is on mine, with the same specs as the OP's.

 

[Illini Pete]

Nice compressor. Decide what you want for working line pressure, and turn down compressor to that (ie compressor's own regulator, or add regulator). If you're using lots of air (ie big demand like sand blaster, air grinder, etc) then you'll want your airline pressure high anyway (say 150 psi) so that drop can be "wide-open" pressure of 150 psi.

Other drops that don't need that much pressure, then add F/R/L (filter, regulator, lubricator) combo unit for say your airline drop that has impact wrench, or just F/R (filter, regulator) if no oil is needed.

Good idea to invest in good quality airline system (ie copper or black pipe steel) that puts your compressor at least 15 or 20 ft away from your drops needing the driest air. This gives air time to cool off and drop out moisture.

Good luck and post up pics when you get system put together.

Everything you say is just what I have planned to do, black pipe and all! Compressor doesn't have its own regulator so I will add one rated to at least 175 at the compressor and then have individual F+R+L at 2 or 3 drops. One will be for blast cabinet and HVLP so that one won't have a lubricator.

Thanks again,
Pete

 

[rlitman]

I don't think there's a pressure switch on the compressor

Of course there is. It may either control the motor, if the motor is 5hp or less, or control a contactor if it is 7.5hp or more (like mine), but electric compressors have a pressure switch.

I have my pressure switch set at 175PSI, but remember that at that setting, the tank will get down to 150PSI before the motor turns back on.

So, I use a regulator set to around 100PSI (but I could set it as high as 145ish) to keep the pressure steady as the tank drains and refills.

 

[Illini Pete]

Of course there is. It may either control the motor, if the motor is 5hp or less, or control a contactor if it is 7.5hp or more (like mine), but electric compressors have a pressure switch.

I have my pressure switch set at 175PSI, but remember that at that setting, the tank will get down to 150PSI before the motor turns back on.

So, I use a regulator set to around 100PSI (but I could set it as high as 145ish) to keep the pressure steady as the tank drains and refills.

Aha! I hadn't completely read the owner's manual and what I was thinking of as a "pressure switch" was of my old Craftsman portable that has a regulator and gauge right on the unit so you can adjust the pressure. The IR has a gauge mounted on it near the motor and the maximum pressure (preset at 175 at the factory) is adjustable with a screw inside the on-off switch box. I may leave it at 175 or dial it back to about 150. Thanks for setting me straight about this!

Pete

 

[sberry]

There is no need for 2 regulators., simply plum to the manifold/regulator. Personbally I like 1 in a small shop and run a couple hydrants a reel and fixed equipment. You just don't need more and can always tailor on easy after the fact with screwed pipe.