AA7483
Well-known member
Got some metal cabinets on Craigslist for my shop and want to paint them. Looking for suggestions on something that will hold up.
Durable cabinet paint
- Thread starter AA7483
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driz
Well-known member
Epoxy primer with polyurethane 2part ( hardener)auto paint not so pricy online
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DGersic
Well-known member
“Tractor” or “implement” paint.
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If you find a color you like, the best bang for the buck will be implement paint from a farm supply store . Comes in tractor colors, but you can mix different colors to tint to your liking. Add white to lighten colors, blend blues and greens etc. Hardener available to help gloss and speed dry time.
Reds, oranges, blues, green, yellow, white and gray commonly available
Reds, oranges, blues, green, yellow, white and gray commonly available
Marctrees
Well-known member
Doing what you want to do I would use a roller.
Basically, on anything flat and simple, usually a roller works best.
Least mess, less expense.
Proper surface prep always applies.
Marc
Basically, on anything flat and simple, usually a roller works best.
Least mess, less expense.
Proper surface prep always applies.
Marc
4xdog
Well-known member
I have probably a half dozen half-used spray cans of Majic implement paint from Tractor Supply here now. I've had miserable luck with using the cans more than once, sometimes twice. Despite my efforts to clean the nozzle after using, they seem to gum up so hard I can't get them to spray again, or if it does, it's an awful drippy flow that's no good anyway.
The implement paint itself is OK. I wouldn't rate it head-and-shoulders above a typical RustOleum, but certainly OK. It tends to be slow drying, which one would like to assume means they dry harder for it.
If you go with implement paint, at least this brand, I'd avoid rattle can and go with roller, as suggested by Marctrees.
bwringer
Well-known member
Pick a brand and a color that will be easy to get in the future for touch-ups. Rustoleum High Performance enamel is what I usually use; works great and available just about everywhere.
Marctrees
Well-known member
I assumed only the exterior.... Only you can decide how important it is to do interior... just be aware IF you do anything more than wash out the inside, it will make the job take 3 x longer., + .
Marc
Marc
Marctrees
Well-known member
Seems to me it's up to personal pref, unless you are truly restoring something very rare for a museum, and then, you would not be asking here.
Marc
Marc
I wouldn't be against leaving it unpainted. Obviously it would look nicer but then Id be pissed off when it started to get chipped up from use. The only concern is some surface rust on the inside that wouldn't be dealt with if I didn't paint. How about spraying them with an inexpensive hvlp sprayer from home depot. Would the paint need to be thinned?
Tinkerman66
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Does somebody help you put your pants on in the morning?
If you're talking about large tin cabinets with doors as opposed to rolling tool chests then I would agree with the roller advice. For that you will be limited to an alkyd oil based paint, Rustoleum, Valspar etc. They are slow drying, more accurately slow curing. At least 2-3 weeks to a month to reach full cure during which time it will be soft and you could scratch it off with a fingernail so if you go that route, I wouldn't paint the shelves. You can add Valspar hardener but you would have to be fast with the roller, hardener is really intended for spraying but I have brushed it thinned with naptha. That concoction will dry on your brush as you are painting. The hardener will give you the most durable finish but it contains isocyanates which is toxic when sprayed or on prolonged skin contact so rubber gloves and a good organic respirator and it's best done outdoors.
isb cornbinder
Well-known member
I have had great success with RUSTOLEUM. No primer necessary. Just make the surface to be painted clean and grease free.
Some before and after pictures and other pictures.
The engines were srayed with a MAC small paint gun.everything else was rattle can RUSTOLEUM.
Some before and after pictures and other pictures.
The engines were srayed with a MAC small paint gun.everything else was rattle can RUSTOLEUM.
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The Rustoleum Hammered finish paints can be applied with a rattle can. They're very tough and cover extremely well. The hammered finish completely hides any brush marks (it's cheaper to apply with a brush or roller). Note that it is nasty stuff, thinned with xylene, so wear a respirator and resign yourself to throwing away any paint brushes or rollers you use.
killahog
Well-known member
I picked up couple cabinets for $5 each, It was a good reason to buy a spray gun and learn how to use it. I picked up the paint at Tractor supply
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killahog
Well-known member
I chose this thinner because it is Mineral spirits based, I watched a few you tube videos on using the sprayer all well reading the included instructions that are helpful . I have only used it a few times so I am not really someone who should be giving advice but the method I used for determing if the paint was thin enough is I would mix it and when the paint would start fall off my paint stirrer (Is that a word ) in 2 separate lines I felt it was thin enough . I did spray the insides account there was a little rust I had to clean off. If you search the my posts I started a thread that was commented on with several helpful reply’s .
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If you decide on spraying, wipe the entire surface down with mineral spirits or paint thinner (if it's really dirty, wash it with detergent first). Scuff the surface up good with an electric pad sander or Scotchbrite pads. Wipe it down again with alcohol to remove the dust. I would thin with naphtha, it will help it flash faster and reduce the chances of dust or bugs settling on the wet surface. If you have rust spots, sand them down smooth and hit the spots with rusty metal primer. There may be a window of opportunity in which to topcoat the primer, read the can. Usually within 1 hour or after 48 hrs.
killahog
Well-known member
The paint is sort of Glossy, and a few shades lighter than what Bendpak uses .
killahog
Well-known member
I did not prime it.
driz
Well-known member
No need to prime if ya scuff till the gloss is gone. Bare spots you should but not a deal killer. Just remember that enamel stays soft on the inside for days so be careful bumping into it with hard things for a month or so. Setting it out in the hot sun helps speed things along too. Nice job,,
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driz
Well-known member
To anyone else thinking about buying a cheap gun that really works hit Harbor Freight. Their PURPLE GUN. Is not bad at all. Get an air pressure regulator that fits on the gun too while you’re there as HVLP guns are finicky about pressures. It’s not up to show quality finishes ( though I bet a pro painter could pull it off) but really is a decent gun. If you graduate to a nice gun keep that one for shooting primer.
Just remember to disassemble and clean it after you’re done. Not 3 hrs later either but as soon as you’re done spraying, like 10-15 minutes. That’s critical with hardened paints. They just start to get sputtery and sticky if you don’t and it’s hard in my experience at least to ever get it right
again. There’s ideas showing how it’s best simply done on utube.
gahrajmahal
Well-known member
In my experience the HF purple gun is a throw away. Poor manufacturing does not let you disassemble it multiple times to clean it. Flushing it with lacquer thinner is about as good as it gets, but at $9.99 on sale it is not too much to take. The savings over multiple spray cans make this a bargain, plus it is faster and you can use a better product. ( I do like rustoleum hammered paints though).
No air compressor in your shop yet? Buy the HVLP sprayer from harbor freight for excellent spraying of cabinets with either enamels or latex.it comes with three different tip sizes. You must thin the paints though. I sprayed kitchen cabinets with factory finish results. I also sprayed the underside of our deck with exterior latex. It allows you to spray without the typical runs when using a Wagner or piston type sprayer in tight quarters.
No air compressor in your shop yet? Buy the HVLP sprayer from harbor freight for excellent spraying of cabinets with either enamels or latex.it comes with three different tip sizes. You must thin the paints though. I sprayed kitchen cabinets with factory finish results. I also sprayed the underside of our deck with exterior latex. It allows you to spray without the typical runs when using a Wagner or piston type sprayer in tight quarters.
Bretny
Well-known member
killahog
Well-known member
I was getting pretty frustrated with majjic paints. They seemed like it was a very soft paint. Then I painted a hitch and forgot about it. Well I finally remembered that I rattled canned it I re assembled it and threw it into duty. That paint just wouldn't chip.
I now know the trick is paint and forget. Its not convient at all however if its not a high use item or you have time to wait its a great option.
I painted the bed on my mule 2 years ago and even with dumping rock and such its holding up Well. Granted that's another project I painted, got busy, and forgot I painted.
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These are the cabinets. Just cleaned them with tsp. Thinking if I decide to do the inside I can sand just the shelves and skip sannding the inside wallls. Then just shoot the inside with an hvlp. The walls should see little wear but will give a uniform look.
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For spraying, Rustoleum states to thin with acetone up to 15%. I've thinned significantly more before to get a good spray pattern. I'd start with 6 paint : 1 acetone and test spray pattern with your gun. Good time to figure out gun settings as well.
Also, if you don't want to sand the interior walls do yourself a favor and at least scuff the interior with a scotch brite pad. Only takes a few minutes and will help the paint stick.
One more piece of advice, close garage doors and keep cars away while painting. Rustoleum overspray drifts pretty far and stays wet so it sticks.
Good luck.
Also, if you don't want to sand the interior walls do yourself a favor and at least scuff the interior with a scotch brite pad. Only takes a few minutes and will help the paint stick.
One more piece of advice, close garage doors and keep cars away while painting. Rustoleum overspray drifts pretty far and stays wet so it sticks.
Good luck.
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Bunk
Well-known member
Rust-Oleum themselves say:
I've used their Professional High Performance Enamel before to good effect. The SDS sheet has this to say about application:
Works out to ~4:1 ratio paint to thinner.
Air Atomized Spray: Useful for many Rust-Oleum coatings. Thinning to proper viscosity is
important and usually requires 10% to 15% of the appropriate thinner. See product label for
more specific information. Avoid overthinning. Use minimum air pressure necessary for good
atomization. Several passes may be needed to achieve recommended film thickness.
important and usually requires 10% to 15% of the appropriate thinner. See product label for
more specific information. Avoid overthinning. Use minimum air pressure necessary for good
atomization. Several passes may be needed to achieve recommended film thickness.
I've used their Professional High Performance Enamel before to good effect. The SDS sheet has this to say about application:
APPLICATION
Mix thoroughly to ensure any settled pigment is redispersed
before using. Thin material, only if necessary,
with acetone. For brush or roller, thinning is not normally
required. For air spray, thin up to 1-½ to 2 pints per gallon.
Do not thin with gasoline, lacquer thinner, turpentine, etc.
For airless spray, thinning is not normally required.
Mix thoroughly to ensure any settled pigment is redispersed
before using. Thin material, only if necessary,
with acetone. For brush or roller, thinning is not normally
required. For air spray, thin up to 1-½ to 2 pints per gallon.
Do not thin with gasoline, lacquer thinner, turpentine, etc.
For airless spray, thinning is not normally required.
Works out to ~4:1 ratio paint to thinner.
I've also had good luck with their "professional" line. Sprayed a few gallons of it through a purple Harbor Freight gun thinned 5 paint : 2 acetone.
I was surprised to see they recommended less thinner for the standard "stops rust" product line. Honestly I don't think it's that critical. I've used various ratios between 5 paint : 2 acetone and 5 paint: 1 acetone. Never any trouble, just see how it shoots through your gun.
I never felt the need to spray more than 1 coat. 1 nice, thick coat worked just fine since this stuff doesn't flash like automotive paint.
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