Durable Needle Nose Pliars?

[Beemer]

I thought my Knipex 9" needle nose pliers were special until I had to twist a trim nail using them in a blind situation (reaching up under wood shingles).
The nail came out but the pliers are frozen solid and won't open or close so are apparently are sprung. I can't say I have the hand strength to bend anything anymore so I am a bit dismayed that the pliers couldn't take it.

Looking for ideas on what brand might be more stout, if any.

I would have thought that needle nose pliers have to be for more than picking up things like using tweezers.

 

[GeoBruin]

I thought my Knipex 9" needle nose pliers were special until I had to twist a trim nail using them in a blind situation (reaching up under wood shingles).
The nail came out but the pliers are frozen solid and won't open or close so are apparently are sprung. I can't say I have the hand strength to bend anything anymore so I am a bit dismayed that the pliers couldn't take it.

Looking for ideas on what brand might be more stout, if any.

I would have thought that needle nose pliers have to be for more than picking up things like using tweezers.

It's kind of a trade off. If you want a finer nose, they're going to be easier to bend. But if you're looking for a design that is "needle ish" but somewhat more stout, check out the Snap On Talon Grip pliers. They taper slowly but then taper more at the last second so they're still some that fine at the nose but the jaws are overall more sturdy.

For less money, (especially with the sale this weekend) the comparable Icon's are pretty sweet as well.

 

[Meursault74]

9 inch you say? Tough you say?

read all about it

New bestest pliers, SO LN47ACF

Just got these yesterday, used the **** out of them today working on a crusty *** 2014 Journey. TONS of uses for these! They remind me of the old Cman Pro 2 position needle nose, but WAY more stout and longer. One pic is 97ACF needle nose next to the LN47ACFs.

www.garagejournal.com

 

[oldschoolcraft]

I like Snap On needle nose pliers better than Knipex. While I do own and like those LN47ACFs linked above, I also like (an own) the 97ACF which are fixed joint. I was cleaning out my paper shredded and the LN47ACFs were nearby so I was using them but the joint kept un-jointing itself every few seconds. The fixed joints were better for this task.

 

[pizza]

SO's LN46ACF and LN47ACF are kind of the new GJ needlenose darlings

 

[neophyte]

SO's LN46ACF and LN47ACF are kind of the new GJ needlenose darlings

Maybe, maybe not.

Snap-on LN46ACF jaw slop – try to exchange?

i have no warranty experience with SO and don't know a truck. thankfully, this was a very recent online purchase direct from SO, but idk what to expect. due to the absurd $250 free shipping thing, i've had my hands on 2x LN46ACF (7") and 4x LN47ACF (9"). gave some as gifts. anyway, this 7" has...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[pizza]

well, i think they're nice pliers, anyways.

 

[dscheidt]

I would have thought that needle nose pliers have to be for more than picking up things like using tweezers.

if they're stouter than that, they're not needle nose, they're some other sort of long nose. Not all long nose pliers are needle nose. What model did you break?

 

[lardy1]

 

[Wamsutta]

 

[ForrestT]

Klein 7” needle nose for me. My favorite needle nose. I have a pair of Knipex needle nose. Great when you need a little flex, but first time I tried to use them for a tough task, I realized they weren’t made for it vs. Klein’s.

 

[Wiz02]

@Beemer , now you've gone and upset the Knipex fan boys, shame on you! Just kidding.

I have an old pair of US made Craftsman needle noses and another pair Channel Lock needle nose pliers that have always done the trick.

 

[darkzero]

SO's LN46ACF and LN47ACF are kind of the new GJ needlenose darlings

I'm still not convinced until I receive my replacements, well if I ever receive them.

 

[darkzero]

I have the 6" size of the Knipex lardy posted. I like em so much I bought another one last month (AWD). As I said in the other thread, they are 1 of 3 of my most favorite needle nose I have ever had.

Here's another one of my favorite needle nose, short & stout (techinically not needle nose but that's what I call all long nose pliers). I use them mostly for pulling cotter pins but also for other similar tasks. Because I have these is why I don't have/need the Knipex mentioned in 8".

 

[KnurledNut]

Wrong tool for the job maybe?
Without knowing the particulars, it seems like I would have grabbed my 10" dikes for that.

Regarding the actual question, Snap-on long nose are strong, but I find they are better suited for mechanic work than tradeswork. I would recommend Klein 203-8s.

 

[Wamsutta]

Trying to find nose pliers with a decent size set of handles for a large hand is almost impossible to find.

If Harbor Freight ever comes out with the LN47ACF copies, they'll make a killing.

 

[Dave455]

You don’t need a different brand necessarily, but you do need a different tool. Needle nose pliers, especially European ones, are not really for twisting.

The tool you need are combination pliers, provided they fit. I use these regularly for removing small nails and pins.


I know that in the U.S. combination pliers are rare, and I think this is why U.S. needle nose pliers tend to be stouter. I personally like to have both styles available.


The Merry pliers shown by darkzero above are an almost unique pattern of tool, but probably perfect for the job!

 

[darkzero]

You don’t need a different brand necessarily, but you do need a different tool. Needle nose pliers, especially European ones, are not really for twisting.

The tool you need are combination pliers, provided they fit. I use these regularly for removing small nails and pins.


I know that in the U.S. combination pliers are rare, and I think this is why U.S. needle nose pliers tend to be stouter.

Nearest U.S. pattern tool would probably be linemans pliers.

The Merry pliers shown by darkzero above are an almost unique pattern of tool, but probably perfect for the job!

Those are great pliers. I never knew they were called combination pliers until I joined GJ. I got these almost 25 yrs ago. But mine might be a little undersized for task mentioned here.

(I keep these in my room)

 

[Wamsutta]

Looking at all those, I might be able to get by with the ones on the far right. The rest have handles too small.

 

[darkzero]

Looking at all those, I might be able to get by with the ones on the far right. The rest have handles too small.

Well then, I suppose you don't do any precision or electronics work.

 

[Beemer]

if they're stouter than that, they're not needle nose, they're some other sort of long nose. Not all long nose pliers are needle nose. What model did you break?

38-200

 

[Beemer]

You don’t need a different brand necessarily, but you do need a different tool. Needle nose pliers, especially European ones, are not really for twisting.

The tool you need are combination pliers, provided they fit. I use these regularly for removing small nails and pins.


I know that in the U.S. combination pliers are rare, and I think this is why U.S. needle nose pliers tend to be stouter. I personally like to have both styles available.


The Merry pliers shown by darkzero above are an almost unique pattern of tool, but probably perfect for the job!

The single tool picture won't fit the space when it happens.
It starts out about 3/8" to 1/2" at most and then tapers smaller.
Also, it needs to be thin and long to reach in. When a nail needs to be removed it is at least 7" in there.
Think wood shingle with 6" exposure. The nails are far enough past that 6" to hide them under the next shingle edge, so 7" minimum is a good starting point. The edge of the shingle only lifts 1/2" or so to provide the space to peek and reach into.

Nice looking tool all the same. Looks like linesmen pliers.

 

[KnurledNut]

The single tool picture won't fit the space when it happens.
It starts out about 3/8" to 1/2" at most and then tapers smaller.
Also, it needs to be thin and long to reach in. When a nail needs to be removed it is at least 7" in there.
Think wood shingle with 6" exposure. The nails are far enough past that 6" to hide them under the next shingle edge, so 7" minimum is a good starting point. The edge of the shingle only lifts 1/2" or so to provide the space to peek and reach into.

Nice looking tool all the same. Looks like linesmen pliers.

Sounds like you might need a shingle ripper.

 

[Beemer]

Need to correct; long nose pliers.

 

[Beemer]

Sounds like you might need a shingle ripper.

Interesting. I looked at a video of that but I'm not convinced that I would want to have any portion of a cut off nail left under there because the replacement shingle has to slide cleanly back in without snagging. The other potential problem I can see happening is if a nail gets bent over rather than cut off then the obstruction is even bigger and the next coarse needs to come out too. And sometimes the next and the next.

I use a Wonder Bar to pull the nails out, if lucky enough to have a shingle strong enough to pop the nail head out a bit to make room for the bar to grab it. If not, well, that's when the pliers can come in handy, They have worked many times int he past but not this time.

 

[KnurledNut]

Interesting. I looked at a video of that but I'm not convinced that I would want to have any portion of a cut off nail left under there because the replacement shingle has to slide cleanly back in without snagging. The other potential problem I can see happening is if a nail gets bent over rather than cut off then the obstruction is even bigger and the next coarse needs to come out too. And sometimes the next and the next.

I use a Wonder Bar to pull the nails out, if lucky enough to have a shingle strong enough to pop the nail head out a bit to make room for the bar to grab it. If not, well, that's when the pliers can come in handy, They have worked many times int he past but not this time.

Can always use a hacksaw blade to cut them if they put up a fight.

 

[Andy1234]

Snap-On AN196ANCF; I use these nearly everyday, and consider them to be both durable and extremely nimble.

Snap-on Store

shop.snapon.com

 

[Steve_P]

Check out the HF Icon copy of the SO 8" needle nose. I picked up a pair a few weeks ago and they're excellent, especially for ~$18. Sometimes I need the fine tips of the Knipex, most of the time I don't. NWS also uses beefier tips than Knipex.

 

[M635_Guy]

Wrong tool for the job maybe?
Without knowing the particulars, it seems like I would have grabbed my 10" dikes for that.

Regarding the actual question, Snap-on long nose are strong, but I find they are better suited for mechanic work than tradeswork. I would recommend Klein 203-8s.

I probably would have grabbed my Knipex TwinGrip for pulling out a nail or screw. I do love my LN46-ACF's though - far more than I expected to be honest.

 

[four.cycle]

Tekton 34401 11-inch needle-nose pliers

^ I think these Tektons were actually manufactured in mainland China (there's been some discussion on that in other threads.) We used these to pull nails out from under asphalt shingles when we were working on the house two summers ago. There was a lot of twisting and pulling and yanking involved. They did okay, but they did get a bit mangled.


a week later I went down to Platt and bought these Kleins, which seem to be able to hold up much better. I gave them to my buddy who was helping me with the house job. (these are the same model as those posted above by @KnurledNut in post #15)

If I were to buy a pair of needle-nose pliers today, it would be the Kleins.

(I own a few pairs of Indestros that I've beat to hell over the years (working on drum brakes) and a pair made by "ProAmerica" - the Klein is a far superior unit.)

(I also have an NOS set of old VACO needle-nose pliers, which are a bit beefier than the Klein model, BUT... I think that VACO was actually outsourcing from Klein.)

 

[Beemer]

OK, same situation with the blind nails today up on the ladder and Vampliars came to the rescue. They are definitely the pliers I needed.

VAMPLIERS® LONG NOSE 7.5″ SCREW EXTRACTION PLIERS - Vampire Tools

High-quality specialty pliers to extract stripped or stuck screws or rounded nuts or bolts. Remove stripped, rusted, corroded, stuck, one-side, Torx screws, nuts, and bolts. Designed with patented VAMPLIERS® Technology. Long Nose ideal for hard-to-reach screws up to 5.5mm in diameter and 2.2mm...

www.vampiretools.com

 

[Wamsutta]

You ever have a screw that backs out and then stops backing out?

Snap-on 612AEP are the ticket.

Harbor Freight sells a copy if you have no conscience and no integrity.

 

[four.cycle]

eh... for $95. you can have the 203-8 Klein (arguably the best needle-nose pliers on the market) AND the Vampire 7.5 inch Needle-Nose Screw Extractor Pliers AND the Vampire 6.25 Screw Extractor Pliers

 

[Beemer]

You ever have a screw that backs out and then stops backing out?

Snap-on 612AEP are the ticket.

Harbor Freight sells a copy if you have no conscience and no integrity.

I never bought a thing at Harbor freight.

 

[neophyte]

You ever have a screw that backs out and then stops backing out?

Snap-on 612AEP are the ticket.

Harbor Freight sells a copy if you have no conscience and no integrity.

The Harbor Freight Icon version is around $20, compared to $96 for the Snap-On version.
The Icon version is supposedly a very close copy of the Snsp-On version, to the point were only people familiar with the slight differences, such as the shape of the spring, and surface of the grips, would be able to easily tell the two apart without seeing the brand name.
I doubt the Icon version is as well made as the Snap-On version.
Snap-On supposedly uses excellent steel, and the jaws on Snap-On files supposedly have the hardness of a file, judging from some tests I’ve seen.
Snap-On doesn’t say whether these pliers are cold forged like their other pliers, but that may also be an advantage.
I have no clue whether any of the Icon pliers are cold forged, but given the cost to set up for cold forging, I find it less likely.

One of the main advantages of the Icon version is that you can use the cheaper version to test the ergonomics of the design.
The pliers seem to have ergonomics designed for people with large hands.
I can use the pliers, but if I have to use the pliers for extended periods I think I would get muscle cramping in my hand.
At $96 for the Snap-On version, that really would have annoyed me.
At $20 or whatever it was for the Icon, I can throw them in a mobile tool kit, use them without much fear of theft or loss, and if I change my mind about the design, I can upgrade to the Snap-On version later, if I find the pliers fail or jaws wear out due to being not up to the same quality of the Snap-On version.
I could also warrantee the Icon pliers in the event of failure or excessive wear, and throw the pliers in a tool kit to lone

 

[dscheidt]

The Harbor Freight Icon version is around $20, compared to $96 for the Snap-On version.
The Icon version is supposedly a very close copy of the Snsp-On version, to the point were only people familiar with the slight differences, such as the shape of the spring, and surface of the grips, would be able to easily tell the two apart without seeing the brand name.
I doubt the Icon version is as well made as the Snap-On version.

I posted my thoughts about the comparison between the two to the new tool arrival thread when they were introduced. ( https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/show-your-new-tool-arrivals.103272/post-10472908 ) Having used them more, my thought: the icons are about 50% as good as the snap-on. Good enough for a lot of stuff, and for a lot of people, but the jaw teeth don't grip as well, and there are some things they can't do. For $20, I can't complain, but I'm giving them to my daughter, not keeping them.

The handles on the icon ones are notably wider than the snap ons, they're about 1/4" further across when closed, and a bit more than that full open.

 

[mike93lx]

It's kind of a trade off. If you want a finer nose, they're going to be easier to bend. But if you're looking for a design that is "needle ish" but somewhat more stout, check out the Snap On Talon Grip pliers. They taper slowly but then taper more at the last second so they're still some that fine at the nose but the jaws are overall more sturdy.

For less money, (especially with the sale this weekend) the comparable Icon's are pretty sweet as well.

This thread came up when I was writing a post on my icon pliers.

I havent had them long, nor used them much and the jaws already look like ****, at least to me. Or is this normal?

No idea how they looked brand new, though.

 

[Davefr]

This thread came up when I was writing a post on my icon pliers.

I havent had them long, nor used them much and the jaws already look like ****, at least to me. Or is this normal?

No idea how they looked brand new, though.

That's really bad. I suspect they cut corners on the heat treating process. Here are my SO Talon Grips that I bought second hand. I use them all the time and they've been used and abused.

 

[mike93lx]

That's really bad. I suspect they cut corners on the heat treating process. Here are my SO Talon Grips that I bought second hand. I use them all the time and they've been used and abused.

Thanks. I never imagined I would be considering $70 needle nose, but here we are.

 

[GeoBruin]

Thanks. I never imagined I would be considering $70 needle nose, but here we are.

I hit mine with the venerable Tsubosan hardness tester files, and I wasn't able to do more than rub the color/coating off with the 45 HRC, but the 50 made a dent. So, for what it's worth, mine appear to be in that range. Not sure what the Talon Grips are hardened to.