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E-tek Restorations: PROJECT THREAD

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e-tek

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No No - two completely different builds and rods. Maybe I should change the title of the thread to E-tek's many different projects designed to confuse readers... ;)

The 32 axle is going under my 27 Runabout build with a flathead, while the 40 Ford is a full on street rod with IFS and a 5.0L.


Maybe this will help:

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+

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=

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Whereas.....

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+

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=

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...Oh and of course this....

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Lhorn

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Hey, I saw Vic Edelbrock being interviewed on the Powerblock this last weekend I think and he was sitting next to that same intake saying it was one of the first he made and it's still made today. Funky looking piece. Pretty cool.
 

1948

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Hey, I saw Vic Edelbrock being interviewed on the Powerblock this last weekend I think and he was sitting next to that same intake saying it was one of the first he made and it's still made today. Funky looking piece. Pretty cool.

that was vic edelbrock JR, SR died, but that was the first intake he made its called a "slingshot". it was out of production for decades, but recently brought back for the true 40s hotrod enthusiasts like myself!:pimpflash

ahh i see now about the T bucket hotrod! just sold one of those myself. you need anything let me know friend!:beer:
 
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e-tek

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As soon as I saw that the Slingshot intakes - invented by Vic Edelbrock, Sr,. I just had to have one! It looks too tall to me sitting on the block alone like that, but you have to imagine the Generator and fan bolted to the front, the long filler neck and the glass gas filter bowl behind it filling it in.

Lots of repairs where done in the front wheel wells of the 240Z, so I put another coat of Dupli-color's Undercoating on some thin spots -

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...and got very close to finishing the quarters -

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A final sanding and they'll be ready for primer!

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Got the windsheild out today as well -

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The ****** for the 40 Ford will get a shift kit and new filters tomorrow -

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The 5.0L will also get detailed while the body is out for paint. Of course I'll be using Dupli-colors Engine Enamel with Ceramic, which contains Ceramic Resins for maximum heat dissipation and gloss and the exhaust manifolds will get Dupi-color's VHT paint.
 
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e-tek

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Got started on the transmission shift-kit install for the 40 Ford Rod today - much more fun than sanding!

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Out come the check balls and springs...

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Change out the springs -

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Modifying the separation plate -

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Replacing the check balls -

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Putting valve body back together -

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Now I just have to replace a few parts on the housing side and she'll be snapping that 40Ford hard enough to chirp the tires in third!

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If you're interested in a step-by-step account of the process, check out my blog.
 
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e-tek

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Finished installing the shift kit today, which was just changing out the accumulator spring and ading a spacer -

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Refitting critical shift bits -

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Bolting the valve body back in -

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Installing a new filter-

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And torquing everything to 90 lb-inches.

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Speaking of which, a lot of times you see instructions that say how much to tighten a fastener in the absence of a torque wrench. In this instance, the instructions say you can install the bolts "wrist tight" and then "a further 1/8 of a turn".

So, being the curious mechanic that I am, I tried it on a couple bolts, twisting them to what I thought was "wrist tight plus another 1/8 of a turn". Then I checked them with the torque wrench. They came in at about 10-20 lb-inches :headscrat - and required a further 80-90 inch-pounds with the torque wrench. Just goes to show: guessing is for suckers. :)

Lastly came the new pan gasket and more torquing of bolts. I know some guys think torquing pan bolts was not very important - but I've seen gaskets squish right out from going too tight on the bolts, or leaks from some being too loose. I always torque pan bolts and valve cover bolts, even spark plugs when a T-wrench is available.

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After it was off the bench and back beside it's mate (the 5L engine), I decided I'd stay on the same project and got to polishing some of the side trim -

First, I removed any visible scratches by wet-sanding with 400 paper -

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Then I dressed the buffing wheel with Black Emery polishing compound -

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Then polished out the pieces, being careful not to over-heat any one area -

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Here you can see the surface is evenly polished, but there's still a lot of compound on it, making it appear black. Removing this by hand rubbing you can see the progress -

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I'll leave them like that for now, but before re-installing them on the painted rod , they'll get another 30-40 minutes each of work, polishing each again with semi-fine, then ultra fine, compounds on different buffing wheels, then a final hand rub with a final glaze. They'll blind you in the sun! :)

And now.... a word from our sponsor!! :thumbup: ;)
The very rusty starter motor was shot with Dupli-color's Self-Etching Primer for maximum adhesion and topped with their gloss black to ensure long-term protection and to keep it looking great under the rod for a long time to come.

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;)
 
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e-tek

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Today was all about sanding.....blech....

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Then I used Dupli-color's High Build Primer to add some contrast and fill for blocking it all out. Since they sent it I'll use it for that, then use a 2-part high build for final blocking.

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e-tek

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Ed, does the high build spray can seem to have a larger nozzle orifice as compared to a regular spray paint?

Not really. This nozzle sprays really nice, but not enough volume to really lay down high-build. As I mentioned on my Dupli-Color FB page, it takes a lot of coats to build it up. I normally use a professional shop product from Pro-form, which has a huge nozzle that lays down a really thick layer of their high-build primer.


On another note, listen to my poor compressor bearing screaming for mercy....
 
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e-tek

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Got the Z all primered up -

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Bottoms all Undercoated too - :rocker:

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Back on the chrome trim for the 40 Ford.....

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Here's a method I learned to spot dimples and get them worked out in thin chrome trim

First, mark the damaged areas with a marker -

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Then, I put a layer of marker over the damaged areas -

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So that by using a blade to scrape the area, I can find the low and high and spots -

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Here you can see where the blade exposed a high spot, showing that it's dented from the top side -

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There's lots of ways to work out the damage on thin chrome pieces - but (unlike some things we do...) the key is to not push too hard, or too fast. One tool I like to use is a piece of wood dowel chucked in the drill and using it as a press (ie. not spinning!). The dowel edge was rounded a bit prior and the wood is soft so it doesn't cause any harsh marks in the chrome as steel would.

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Or, you can use different bits of wood to push and/or rub the damage out too.

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This weekend is going to be devoted to sanding on the Z.....at this pace, it might be painted soon!
 
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DynoDave

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Cool tips on the chrome trim, and wooden dowel. Thanks for sharing. I assume you are using the drill press like an arbor press, not with the drill/dowel spinning.
 
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e-tek

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Put in a new Shop Security system today -

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Then made up a new tool I needed -

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Then it all came to a screetching halt...

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:scared:
 
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Omphaloskeptic

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E-Tek, the Z is coming along nicely; you'll be ready to wrap a big red bow around it for Mothers' Day (May 12)!

Your blood sacrifice to the 'Garage Gods' reminded me that I need to put together a 'Shop First Aid Kit'. OUCH!

Not meaning to be an A$$HOLE, but I do hope you put your shop security system under lock & key/ small gun safe /hide the magazine or something to keep young hands from being just too curious; please, please, please!
 
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e-tek

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Sliced it running my hand along the inside of the fender well.....judging by the amount of squirting blood, it must've crossed a vein and - judging by the DEEP pain this morning, it must've gone right to the bone.

Lucky I saved that expired Novacain..... ;)
 
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e-tek

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So no updates (work) today ! Hope you have the tetanus shots up to date.

Well, it was only sanding today, so not too exciting.....but here's a shot of getting the body lines sorted out -

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This is how it should BASICALLY look when done....same color, similar wheels and air dam even!

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But with this stripe treatment - in black or graphite on the silver. I'm gonna see if someone would Photoshop it for me.

The parts prices are still VERY reasonable for these cars. I just ordered EVERYTHING I need - from seat upholstery, carpet set, interior bits, complete engine, brake and suspension rebuild parts and more, for UNDER $1800! I already have the wheels (magnesium) and tires too.
 
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e-tek

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How about the Tetanus Shot ?

Altough the Tetanus bacteria is common in the environment, contracting it is very rare - indeed there have only been 4 cases in Canada last year. The kids have stepped on nails and I've put MANY kinds of rusty bits of metal through several body parts, but I've never had a tetanus shot nor has it been suggested. I do recall Mrs E-tek had to get one for her Race Drivers Medical though. The bacteria lives mostly in soil, especially with organic matter (manure) in it, so you're more at risk on a farm than in your shop.

The finger looks good - no signs of infection, so I think I'll be OK. :beer:

But I'm SURE I'm due for my 10 year booster....
 
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e-tek

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Well it had to happen sometime: after dealing with the tenants from hell for a couple weeks I had them forcefully evicted then ended up having to repair a few holes in the drywall....

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After doing that, plus cleaning the place up, repairing some trim and re-hanging blinds and changing the locks.......

I got back to my shop and got started on the 240Z engine tear down -

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The famous Twin-SU carbs -

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Tomorrow I'll get to the bottom end -

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e-tek

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I could not be a landlord and deal with that. I hope you kept the bond to cover repair costs ? Do you have that system where they lose the bond when tenants are removed from the property ?

This is the first time I've ever had trouble. It's generally pretty easy money and I (generally!) like people, which is why I'm in sales I guess!

What happened was they were late paying rent several months in a row, became really loud, started fighting, had an angry teen and the husband was an ******* to boot. Then they started feuding with the other tenant, so I posted an eviction notice, which usually works, but they decided to contest it (because he knows his rights of course....). So first, I went to the "Rentalsmans" office and got a hearing to end their tenancy based on continuous late payments and disturbing the neighbors. I won a judgement and they had to be out April 30th....which was OK, but I was hoping for sooner.

Then, they decided to become combative and stopped paying rent - which is actually good for me. Here in SK, if a renter hasn't paid rent in full by the 15th of the month, you can apply to have them evicted in 24hrs, enforcable by the Sheriff. So we went to a second hearing (which they thought they'd win...) and I get another judgement in my favor, but this time they had to be out in 24 hours! Game-Set-Match, **** You and get out.

So they packed up and left Friday, or else I'd have had the Sheriff there Saturday. When that happens the Sheriff takes them out, landlord changes the locks and now their stuff is mine (Landlords). But who wants poor people's **** - y'know?

So, to finally answer your question, yes, I kept their "Damage Deposit", but really it went to cover the unpaid rent. I took applications today and should have a new tenant on the 15th. So I'll be out a few hundred bucks this month on that property, but that's business!

Too long?:dunno:;)
 
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e-tek

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After doing some more cleaning of parts for the 27 Ford Rod....

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I continued the tear down on the Z engine today....

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.....and found some sketchy leak repairs ;)

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....but the cam looked pretty much perfect!

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Before taking the head off I made my own cam chain block to ensure I don't loose the timing -

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The front corner had a leak repaired - the source of which was a break in the front portion of the head gasket -

With the head off, I could see that although the pistons had some carbon buildup, the cylinder walls were smooth as a baby's-y'know-what with very little ridge buildup -

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I measured the cylinders for wear and roundness and they came in nearly perfect, so I decided not to go at the bottom end and just do the gasket and paint rebuild. By sealing up the leaks and replacing all the wear parts, plus gasket-matching the manifolds and rebuilding the carbs, I think (Ok hope) it'll be perfect.

Time for the cleaning to begin!

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theoldwizard1

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Well it had to happen sometime: after dealing with the tenants from hell for a couple weeks I had them forcefully evicted ...

Eviction laws vary from state to state and probably from county to county. I many cases it is very difficult to get renters out, even if they are many months delinquent.

Squatters are another issue. In some place they can claim "ownership" if they have been there long enough and have made "improvements".
 
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