ratdoggy
Well-known member
Very nice!!!
E-tek Restorations: PROJECT THREAD
- Thread starter e-tek
- Start date
Capt Chrysler
Well-known member
Hello E-tek,
Don't forget the Dove tail striker on the door. With out it, it will raise hell with the latch & striker. I found out the hard way on a 36 ford coupe on Americruise, and a coupe door is a lot lighter that a 40 sedan!
Don't forget the Dove tail striker on the door. With out it, it will raise hell with the latch & striker. I found out the hard way on a 36 ford coupe on Americruise, and a coupe door is a lot lighter that a 40 sedan!
Capt Chrysler
Well-known member
e-tec are you going to strip the rest of the paint off the car. Or are you just spoting on the new panels?
Capt. Chrysler
Capt. Chrysler
madoc1
Well-known member
bump to keep up.
nice work
jim
nice work
jim
MP&C
Well-known member
Althought the gaps are even, yo can see the body lines don't quite match up. This will be rectified by installing and adjusting the latch and striker -
Ed, on your blog you state you were going to install the latch and striker to fix those body lines. Relying on the latch and striker to raise the back of the door
will result in premature wear of those parts.. You may have better luck adjusting the hinges to align the body details. This should also open up the tight gap at
the door bottom to rocker. Generally the body lines should line up across the gaps before the latch is installed.
Having an AWESOME SUMMER boys!
Been enjoying the new rides:
Sometimes using them two at a time!
But even two at a time doesnt match up to the fun and quality of the Porsche 986 - which I had out on our local race track last weekend....
And of course the 40 Ford turned out BEAUTIFULLY!
Which rounded out my month off in July - so now it's back to the grind...
Been enjoying the new rides:
Sometimes using them two at a time!
But even two at a time doesnt match up to the fun and quality of the Porsche 986 - which I had out on our local race track last weekend....
And of course the 40 Ford turned out BEAUTIFULLY!
Which rounded out my month off in July - so now it's back to the grind...
Remember the POR15 vs Rust Bullet test I started EXACTLY ONE YEAR AGO? No?
Oh well - I just updated it with the results. See it hre:
http://e-tekrestorations.blogspot.ca/2014/07/1-year-update-por15-vs-rust-bullet-real.html
Oh well - I just updated it with the results. See it hre:
http://e-tekrestorations.blogspot.ca/2014/07/1-year-update-por15-vs-rust-bullet-real.html
Last edited:
HOTFR8
Banned
Remember the POR15 vs Rust Bullet test I started EXACTLY ONE YEAR AGO? No?
Oh well - I just updated it with the results. See it https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?b...;onClosedMenu=allposts;postNum=0;src=postname
Will you post the results here
? I can not access that page as it asks me to log on.Will you post the results here
Same.
HOTFR8
Banned
MP&C
Well-known member
Just go to the blog in his signature..
HOTFR8
Banned
If I could access that I would not have posted here.
pops52
Member
I remember when you started this and wondered about the results as well. I cannot access the results either. I too would like to learn the results here if possible.
Thanks.
Thanks.
scrumpy
Well-known member
If you choose the link he posted it asks for a login. But if you go to the BLOG link in his signature it does not. Then you can see the results. At least that worked for me from my iPad.
-scrump
-scrump
SORRY GUYS!! Not sure why that is happening - I checked my settings and all seems OK. Try this one - or as was said, try the link in my sig. It's certainly not a "Scientific Test, but just one guys experience - in some harsh conditions!
http://e-tekrestorations.blogspot.ca/2014/07/1-year-update-por15-vs-rust-bullet-real.html
http://e-tekrestorations.blogspot.ca/2014/07/1-year-update-por15-vs-rust-bullet-real.html
MacmanSW20
Well-known member
Out of curiosity have you tried the rubberized undercoating from POR15? I am probably going to use either the standard gallon or buy some cans to spray with the Rubberized undercoating. (2012 Ford Raptor) Just moving back to Nova Scotia so I want to get it coated before the salt comes.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
That's what I hate about aftermarket panels, and I hope you have good luck lining the door up. It looks to me like the body line at the top is close, but the body line at the bottom is off way more than the top one. If one lines up it will leave the other one off and visa-versa. Or just possibly split the difference between both and call it good.
I ran into the same thing with my truck and an aftermarket fender. Luckily it came in close, but if anyone looked too long it was very noticeable. It bugged me to no end every time I looked at it. So good luck, I'm thinking you'll need it.
Good eye Kevin. I've run into this on most every job I've ever done and it's always rectified in the end. Even though the major panel work is done, there's still a lot of minor metal work, adjustments, high-build primer, blocking and other work to be done - so stay tuned!
Last edited:
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
I haven't - but generally, adhesion is the enemy of these products - and rubberized coatings have had a history of coming loose due to adhesion, rock or panel damage.
Here's a good article about rust proofing methods that boils it down to an "oil-based spray" being the best way to stave off rust - especially in newer vehicles where rust hasn't started and don't have thick rubberized "dealer-applied" coatings applied.
http://www.carhelpcanada.com/12626/About-Rustproofing.htm
HOTFR8
Banned
OK, I am still looking for the results ? Why did you not just post them here ?
The links works for me Simon ??? I didn't post them here because it's 1 of 3 articles on my blog...But here goes - Just for you!
1 year Update: POR15 vs RUST BULLET "Real World RUST PAINT Test"
July 31st, 2014 - the test plate I attached to the underside of my van was removed 364 days later, after having travelled approximately 45,000kms across the salted, sanded and gritty roads of Saskatchewan Canada, where temperatures ranged from +38C/110F to -40C/-40F and with constant speeds of up to 125kph/80mph for up to 5 hours at a stretch. While by no means a Scientific Study, it serves the purpose of showing how these paints perform in "real-world" conditions, exceeding the abuse they would be exposed to in wheel wells, frames, suspension components, trailers and other exposed metal surfaces.
Removing the plate:
And here it is, the even rustier control section is on the Left, the POR15 and Rust Bullet painted sections on the Right. The test peice and paints are still coated in a film of salt and road-grime.
Photo A - After an initial (dry) wipedown, the plate was placed on the original labelled board -
Photo B - Plate was flipped over, showing the underside
after being cleaned with a water-dampened paper towel -
Discussion -
Both paints where largely intact and protective of the base metal underneath, suffering no major adhesion issues. However, both paints suffered minor damage and removal along the leading edge, an area subjected to direct contact from grit, stones, salt and more (top edge in top photo A, bottom edge in photo B).The uncoated section continued to rust, whereas only small sections of the leading edges of the coated sections did so. After wiping with a wet paper towel the sheen/shiny surface was returned and in good shape.
For comparison, here is the plate 1 year ago, when it was first prepared and painted with the two rust paints:
Overall impressions:
As promised by the manufacturers, both single-stage, air-cured epoxy paints did a very good job of protecting the metal substrate overall and sealing/protecting the vast majority of the coated surfaces. As mentioned above, both paints did suffer what I would term as a "minor" adhesion issue - damage/removal atthe leading edge, which would have taken a large amount of abuse from road debri and harsh weather conditions.
HOTFR8
Banned
Thanks Ed. I have no idea why that link does not work for me.
That sure gives a great comparison.
That sure gives a great comparison.
Last edited:
madoc1
Well-known member
hot, it works if you go to the bottom and click on BLOG. well it did for me.
jim
jim
Ohmthis
Well-known member
I'm curious the see the "fix" on that door. To my feeble mind I can see lining up the top and middle lines. Then adding (weld) material to the bottom to close the gap. Hope to learn a new trick!!!
HOTFR8
Banned
May be a country thing -Internet
? Any way it did not work for me. What Ed posted was all I needed to see .JCQuick
Well-known member
so this is where this thread went here I thought something was wrong with ed as I thought you were MIA
keep up the good work
keep up the good work
MacmanSW20
Well-known member
Thanks, I'll give that a read, since new I had used AMSOIL HD Metal protectant on the underside and it has been fine for out west in Alberta, but I am thinking it won't quite cut it back in the Salt belt of Nova Scotia.
Here is a pic of what I have used:
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...s-and-protectants/heavy-duty-metal-protector/
Ohmthis
Well-known member
Flatheads look soooooooo damn cool!!!!!!!!!!
HOTFR8
Banned
Keen to see the E-Rod progress.
jkherd
Well-known member
Can't wait to see the the progress on the rod. Post often please Ed.Responder
Well-known member
That will be a nice build!!
Thanks gents. I'll always post highlights here but the details will go into my blog - so if you're at all interested, you could sign up to receive updates on my blog postings.
In addiition to the flathead build, I would like to work on the 390 for my Galaxie this winter as well. To make things easier, that means getting the block to the machinist along with the flatty - before the snow flies!
So I spent part of today tearing the 390 down as well:
It was fairly clean inside...but the timing chain had LOT of slack! It's going to get a fairly stock rebuild but with forged pistons to stand up to the boost of at least one turbo! Again, details in my blog!
In addiition to the flathead build, I would like to work on the 390 for my Galaxie this winter as well. To make things easier, that means getting the block to the machinist along with the flatty - before the snow flies!
So I spent part of today tearing the 390 down as well:
It was fairly clean inside...but the timing chain had LOT of slack! It's going to get a fairly stock rebuild but with forged pistons to stand up to the boost of at least one turbo! Again, details in my blog!
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
390 short block -
Parts -
Cleaning up scale on #8 -
I like the e-bucket.
Appears you have a 1974 or newer Mirror 105 engine block FE-FT
It should have the extra webbing. Did you check the crank? It should be a 2U to be a 390. Just so you are aware some of the D4TE blocks could be 361-391 and would have a different distributor shaft size in block.
I think only the AC block had the smaller dist shaft size.
What is it out of do you know? If its never been apart its most likely a pickup engine vs big truck because of timing cover arrangement.
Have you thought of adding a 428 crank to the mix? I picked up a fresh cut 428 crank for 100.00
Add those extra cubes pretty cheap.. or a 4.25 stroke crank is pretty reasonable.
What are the cylinder heads you are using? D2's?
With the turbo is it going to be carb'd or EFI?
Way cool as Turbo'd FE's are few and far between
Thanks for the info. I got the block from a friend who is a die-hard blue-oval fan and the local mod on the ford trucks.com site, so I would trust that he knew what he had, but I"ll definitely confirm the details as per your information. If I could get a 428 crank for $100 that"d be awesome - cheap cubes are always a good thing, but y"know how we always used to say "there"s no replacement for displacement?", well we know that"s not true anymore - it's just called boost!