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E-tek Restorations: PROJECT THREAD

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e-tek

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i thought I'd share couple interesting things I've come across this week....

First, Last month, for the first time, RUSSIA has shot to number per page views on my blog - isnt that weird? And I had more views from Turkey than Canada!

Pageviews
Russia
173
United States
149
Turkey
36
Canada
30
China
27
Ukraine
20

Go Ruskies!! :rocker:

Secondly, I've gotten a few emails like this one:

shocker998md said:
So I stumbled upon a post of yours,
Could you enlighten a fellow FE fan on your turbo 390 project?
I currently have a 66 F100 with a 390 thats a mild build and then a beater F250 with a 390.
But the turbo stuff has sparket my interest for budget build 360 truck stuff.

Ken

I got the idea from a couple friends who have put killer turbo set-ups on their rods, as well as from reading CarCraft - who has shown many ways to build a turbo system, one way is being on engines you can sawp exhaust manifolds on, so the outputs are pointing UPwards. Some fabrication on an existing flange connects the exhaust to the turbo, and some stainless and vinyl tubing conencts the pressure side (preferably through an air-intercooler) then on to a carburator or efi intake. You also need aftermarket spark and fuel controllers to advance the spark and increase the fuel when it see's boost.

Check these links out for more details:

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1009_cheap_turbos_from_ebay_on_a_350_small_block_engine/

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1108_turbo_small_block_build/

And here's an excerpt that speaks to how easy some kit-makers have made it:

"The turbo kit from Wrenchrat makes monster power. For the price of a good centrifugal supercharger you get twin stainless steel turbo headers, two turbochargers, stainless downpipes, wastegates, the cold-side charge pipes and merge, a blow-off valve, and all the little parts to put it together. If you have a well-running engine with less than 9.0:1 compression, you can install it in a weekend, and with a few simple carb modifications, run it on pump gas."

Read more: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1104_the_wrenchrat_twin_turbo_kit/#ixzz39vL74fpN

ccrp_0912_09%2Bturbo_pontiac_400_engine_build%2B.jpg


ccrp_0912_08%2Bturbo_pontiac_400_engine_build%2B.jpg


I know, I know, the naysayers will say there's this issue and that....but I've seen guys build them up, quickly, for less than $1000 in total, so I'm gonna try it - as soon as I can get my engine back together and the TA sold for some extra play funds!:bounce:
 
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TimeWarpF100

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 21, 2010
Messages
6,784
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not here
i thought I'd share couple interesting things I've come across this week....

First, Last month, for the first time, RUSSIA has shot to number per page views on my blog - isnt that weird? And I had more views from Turkey than Canada!

Pageviews
Russia
173
United States
149
Turkey
36
Canada
30
China
27
Ukraine
20

Go Ruskies!! :rocker:

Secondly, I've gotten a few emails like this one:



I got the idea from a couple friends who have put killer turbo set-ups on their rods, as well as from reading CarCraft - who has shown many ways to build a turbo system, one way is being on engines you can sawp exhaust manifolds on, so the outputs are pointing UPwards. Some fabrication on an existing flange connects the exhaust to the turbo, and some stainless and vinyl tubing conencts the pressure side (preferably through an air-intercooler) then on to a carburator or efi intake. You also need aftermarket spark and fuel controllers to advance the spark and increase the fuel when it see's boost.

Check these links out for more details:

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1009_cheap_turbos_from_ebay_on_a_350_small_block_engine/

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1108_turbo_small_block_build/

And here's an excerpt that speaks to how easy some kit-makers have made it:

"The turbo kit from Wrenchrat makes monster power. For the price of a good centrifugal supercharger you get twin stainless steel turbo headers, two turbochargers, stainless downpipes, wastegates, the cold-side charge pipes and merge, a blow-off valve, and all the little parts to put it together. If you have a well-running engine with less than 9.0:1 compression, you can install it in a weekend, and with a few simple carb modifications, run it on pump gas."

Read more: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1104_the_wrenchrat_twin_turbo_kit/#ixzz39vL74fpN

ccrp_0912_09%2Bturbo_pontiac_400_engine_build%2B.jpg


ccrp_0912_08%2Bturbo_pontiac_400_engine_build%2B.jpg


I know, I know, the naysayers will say there's this issue and that....but I've seen guys build them up, quickly, for less than $1000 in total, so I'm gonna try it - as soon as I can get my engine back together and the TA sold for some extra play funds!:bounce:

Ed, I have done a couple of the cheap turbo kits.

This one on a junk yard honda engine in a sand rail. It had over 100k miles on it. Under 500.00 for kit and this little 4cyl made 350hp @ the Wheels!

A bit of tuning was only thing else done. Yeah we dynoed it. Ran 17lbs boost

It had a very week cylinder probably the reason it was in junk yard. With a fresh not worn out engine it then made over 400 RWHP.

4b76ff62_zps1f6a0dbb.jpg

e0f3b8b4_zps688fc7dc.jpg

d12c73d9_zps1a294f1d.jpg

8f367b5b_zps0ec0cbe6.jpg

7eff5df1_zps96b699a5.jpg

5fceb6f2_zps7cc8231f.jpg


I also put a twin kit on a 180,000 mile 351 windsor from a pickup and dropped it into a Fox mustang. it made over 500hp until the timing chain broke!
That kit was under 600.00 and a bit of fab work. 7psi

I say go for it! Good ring seal is a must.

Hot Rod mag has a 7.3L turbo on the nissan . .
 
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e-tek

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Thanks Time Warp - awesome builds. Just go to show it's not "rocket science" ;)

(Man, but those photo's are MASSIVE!!)
 

TimeWarpF100

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Thanks Time Warp - awesome builds. Just go to show it's not "rocket science" ;)

(Man, but those photo's are MASSIVE!!)

Ed, Here is a turbo 390 pic I mentioned in PM.

Large single. Engine is in a Rx7 haha

SAM_0238_zpse0177e14.jpg

SAM_0236_zpsa06dde3e.jpg


I had planned on building a turbo setup for one of my FE's just too many other things going on right now.

Pics are showing normal size for me. Downsized in PB. Gotta love the issues with PB . .
 
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e-tek

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After many years here, I just burned out I guess. When my thread got moved to the fabrication secton, the people seeing my posts - and commenting - where down to only a few - and of those, I didn't feel there was much useful (or fun) discourse occurring anymore.
I certainly enjoy sharing what I do, but I can do that on my blog, www.e-tekrestorations.blogspot.com. For banter and camaraderie, I enjoy many shared-interest FB sites, other vehicle-specific sites, as well as all the email that comes in from my site.
I'll continue to pop some posts into my thread here when I think of it - and of corse I read a lot of the content put up by others here - but I don't think I'll get back as often as I used to.
Cheers to all - keep up the good work!
 

HOTFR8

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I am sorry to read that Ed. Your topic was better off out of Free Parking as you did so much Fabrication. Like many forum members back when we moved the topics similar to yours we decided it was the best as so many became frustrated with the Free Parking section of the forum. Those that subscribed to topics like yours still follow with interest.

Have you noticed now if not signed in Free Parking is not available to non forum members ?

We all have other things that are more important than here. you have a family and children and they I am sure are more fun than this forum but when time permits you just add a comment or two so we can see what is keeping you busy. :thumbup:
 

jarhead

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Colorado, near Morrison
I did more reading than commenting,always came here to learn. The most I could input was awesome **** Ed!

I hadn't noticed it was moved,I was just subscribed and always waiting for more.

But I can understand being busy and having family and trying to post pics on multiple sites.

I appreciate what I see, Hope all is well.

Joe
 
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DynoDave

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And I thought I was the only one who had lost track of this thread....again!

FLATHEADS! I see flatheads!
 
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e-tek

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Wow - not sure what I did to enjoy so much attention from you gents, but thanks (I think! ;))! As per where these threads belong, you boys are probably right - I can't claim to be a fabricator on the level of Robert and Kevin, so I never could figure why it was moved here. Who knows, maybe the mods will start a "junior-fabricators" thread, for those of us that just aspire to those lofty levels - or maybe just for my stuff! :beer:

Of course my son Colby might argue that my Sandwhich-fabricating skills might just put me over the top....then again, he doesn't speak much, so it's generally hard to know what he's thinking....:dunno:

showthread.php


0


Anyways, good to see you boys are still here, helping people learn and making the world a better place! :pimpflash
 
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MP&C

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Ed, I was just trying to make sense of you not wanting to be in the fabrication forum.. :dunno: I never claim to be some super whiz bang fabricator the likes of Covell, etc. Matter of fact I think I've shown quite a few of my blunders as well in the hopes someone else doesn't do the same. So I'm far from perfect and I'll be the first to admit it.

There seemed to be a big stink on you moving your projects to free parking, I was merely backing up your decision by offering a viewpoint that perhaps would support it so some could get past it. Nothing more, nothing less. If you find my post that upsetting, I apologize, please have a mod remove it.
 
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HOTFR8

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Guys,

PLEASE can we get Eds topic back on topic. Ed does some great work and all the topics related to car work are Fabrication.

We all have different skill levels here on the forum and it is great to share what we all do some of those that post we all admire and many of those share things I can not do myself but after seeing work of others I like to gove things a try.

I followed with interest the work on the 40 Ford Ed did and that deserved to be in this section of the forum.

Can we please get back on topic.
 
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e-tek

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Started organizing parts for the Vintage Air and wiper/washer system install today. This thing is going to be so sweet - my first pro-touring, "bells and whistles" car in a classic shell build.

IMG_0271.JPG


IMG_0273.JPG


The brackets and pump are supposed to be installed on the left (nearest) side of the engine, but then the hoses will all have to cross the engine bay....

IMG_0272.JPG


I'll mock it all up and we'll see how it works best...has anone else done one of these on an early Camaro?

IMG_0274.JPG


I keep going back and forth now on whether I should have laid down the Dynamat first or last, but its down now. I'll protect it with lots of drop clothes and it'll add a little padding for when I crawl around in there installing all the new components!
 
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e-tek

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Ever get in a car with an annnoying vibration that starts about 3000rpm, goes away at 4000, comes back at 4500, etc. They can be a real bee-atch to pin down and repair, so I downloaded the Tremec Driveline App to check the trans, drivehaft and rearend pinion angles on the Camaro as they sit prior to changing out all the suspension bits:

IMG_0287.JPG


IMG_0288.JPG


IMG_0292.JPG


With a baseline set I can be sure not to get things too out of whack when I put in the new equipment. Great tool for anyone doing driveline work.
 
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e-tek

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Also got a bunch of the small parts cleaned up and mocked up, from the new WS wiper assembly up front -

IMG_0306.JPG


to the TL assemblies out back. Here I'm using #00 stell wool to polish the chrome -

IMG_0285.JPG


Some of the lenses had old damage on them, so I used a progressive sand paper regimen to sand, then buff, them out. Most came out very well.

IMG_0295.JPG


On lenses I like to use a polishing compound instead of water, with the wet-dry sandpaper.

IMG_0293.JPG


The trunk area, going back together. One of the things I've learned to pay extra attention to over the years are the joins on adjacent welded panels. All too often they end up disappearing - either welded solid, or smeared over with filler of some sort. Factory seams can generally be seen, along with the spot welds, but of course even sloppy factory work can make them disappear (usually under too much seam sealer), but after looking closely at what seems like thousands of these, I think the best look (and generally the highest judged) is when they end up looking somewhat like this:

IMG_0301.JPG


IMG_0299.JPG


As a whole, this is what the finished product should end up looking like:

IMG_0305.JPG


IMG_0304.JPG


A fine bit of work if I do say so myself! :rocker:
 

MP&C

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Joints across panels are some of the hardest things to get "right". Lord knows I've failed miserably at it, and will likely do so in the future, I'm sure... This is likely why many of the TV programs showing car builds will have a layer of bondo smeared from one end of the car to the other; it helps to address issues such as joints across panels.

For anyone performing an inspection/evaluation of a restored vintage car for purchase, the true test of fitment for adjacent panels is the distortion seen (if any) in the reflection. Any reflected lines should align straight across adjacent panels without any refraction or distortion. The pic above does seem to indicate the quarter is slightly low, but no doubt it's 100% better fit and finish than what came out of the factory. I point this out to help others develop an eye to pick out details when looking at cars.. For anyone looking to purchase a car, take note of reflected lines going across adjacent panels. Any inconsistencies may merely indicate factory flaws, but they may lead you to look further and uncover other flaws or body damage, that may be easily hidden otherwise. I recently took my apprentice to a car show and showed him how to use this to pick up on inconsistencies in body fit/finish. It both helps him to develop an eye for detail, and to realize that it's all in the details. Heck, we found some of the "featured cars" had easily noticed sanding scratches visible in the paint. Car shows are a good venue to practice this, and once you develop this "eye for detail" you will have a better appreciation for the cars you see that focus on the details, like the paint finish Ed shows above inside the trunk lid opening.


Ed, the Camaro is coming together beautifully. What a difference just adding in a bit of chrome does. Thanks for sharing your tricks, polishing up the chrome and light lenses really adds to those final show car touches.
 
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Kevin54

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Ed, if you have ever watched Powerblock, Rick Bacon aka the Arsonist, repairs factory lenses. He does about the same as you do, only using water. He'll sand and prep then will shoot clear coat on them, then buff them out. He does this with newer style plastic headlights, and they look brand new. Here is his FB page. Some pretty interesting stuff as he has his own business now. If you want to see the lights, they are on down past the Challenger where he tinted the taillights https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rick-Bacon-The-Arsonist/218113551550814
 

Kevin54

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IMG_0272.JPG


Is the inner fenders painted the same as the car/. If so, I think it would look good to have the brackets either powder coated or painted to match the car also. It's coming together nicely!!!
 

zmotorsports

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Ed, if you have ever watched Powerblock, Rick Bacon aka the Arsonist, repairs factory lenses. He does about the same as you do, only using water. He'll sand and prep then will shoot clear coat on them, then buff them out. He does this with newer style plastic headlights, and they look brand new. Here is his FB page. Some pretty interesting stuff as he has his own business now. If you want to see the lights, they are on down past the Challenger where he tinted the taillights https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rick-Bacon-The-Arsonist/218113551550814

I did the headlights on our coach that way back in 2007 when I purchased it. They are BMW headlight assemblies and quite expensive that Monaco used in their mid-2000 coaches. Mine were extremely fogged/faded. Polishing wasn't working like on many other headlight assemblies, like they were a harder plastic or something.

I wet sanded with 600 grit wet sandpaper, clearcoated with PPG clear (multiple coats) then lightly buffed them. Looked great and have done fine but over the last year or two have gotten some rock chips and I need to redo them this coming spring.

Mike.
 
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e-tek

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Ed, if you have ever watched Powerblock, Rick Bacon aka the Arsonist, repairs factory lenses. He does about the same as you do, only using water. He'll sand and prep then will shoot clear coat on them, then buff them out. He does this with newer style plastic headlights, and they look brand new. Here is his FB page. Some pretty interesting stuff as he has his own business now. If you want to see the lights, they are on down past the Challenger where he tinted the taillights https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rick-Bacon-The-Arsonist/218113551550814

Thanks Kevin. I used to use the clear paint trick too - it makes them look incredible....until the clear starts to flake! :lol: Just gotta make sure they are well-sanded, as you said.
 
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e-tek

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Is the inner fenders painted the same as the car/. If so, I think it would look good to have the brackets either powder coated or painted to match the car also. It's coming together nicely!!![/QUOTE]

They are - I'll have to ask the owner if he thinks that's a good idea. OF course it's always something he could do down the road.
 

TimeWarpF100

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Is the inner fenders painted the same as the car/. If so, I think it would look good to have the brackets either powder coated or painted to match the car also. It's coming together nicely!!!

They are - I'll have to ask the owner if he thinks that's a good idea. OF course it's always something he could do down the road.[/QUOTE]


Ed,
Did you get the pics and info on the turbo's you requested?

Camaro is coming along nicely!

a few pics in case you did not get the emails or pm pics

IMG_7413.jpg

IMG_7411.jpg

IMG_7410.jpg

IMG_7406.jpg

IMG_7404.jpg

IMG_7400.jpg

IMG_7399.jpg

IMG_7398.jpg
 

Capt Chrysler

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I'm going to be in trouble!

Body colored engine bracket loose all the detail
And now the engine compartment looks like a big blob of color.

It might just be me, but that's the way my eyes and brain see it.

Capt. Chrysler
 
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e-tek

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Thanks Timewarp, Have you used one of these kits on anything of yours yet? I've been doing my research on turbos for the FE and I keep reading that I need to buy one that's of fairly high quality - if it's going to last any time at all on the 390l. I know it'll cost a bunch more, but do want it to last! Cheers.
 
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