E-tek Restorations.....

[e-tek]

Thats a 458, not an F430, and my son and I are very jealous.

You must know your Ferrari's! They had several - and they all look similar in the thumbnails....

Hope you get the chance to do it sometime as well. Like with many things though, the lead-up and anticipation are great, but it goes by so fast I may as well have just thrown $300 from any moving car!

As I said, the ride-a-long in the Vette was a blast. It's brutally fast and the guy is a pro, so drives WAY further into the turn, before STOMPING on the brakes and then cranking it into a drift. Highly recommended.

 

[M. Blue 240]

Its on my bucket list, but the money could go to so many more important things right now. I love Ferraris and would own quite a few if I ever had the money, I have about 80 Hot Wheel Ferraris though

 

[e-tek]

Galaxie Torque box - Right side:

I've found that the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator paint doesn't burn off when welded. I painted the reverse sides of these parts and after welding, it was not bruned away at all - even at the weld seem.

I also put a new brake cable on the '56 Chev, changed out the top rad hose (leak) and screwed on the final part before delivery - the gas cap. She's perfect, it was a fun 2 years (almost exactly!) and I'll miss it, but it time to start another project!

 

[e-tek]

And here it is!

1967 Cougar XR7:

It'll be stripped to the shell and will get new metal in the floors and quarters, then brought back to better than new - in E-tek Resto style!

 

[PCO6]

^^^ Great car! I went out with a girl in high school whose Dad bought one of those new for her Mom. She (we ) got to drive it a LOT. It sure beat the 61' bug I had at the time.

 

[Al Bundy]

More pictures please! I see what appears to be a GT emblem on the fender. Is that an add on or the real deal? I hope the plan includes getting rid of those hideous door ding guards. Save those wheel well moldings if you can. The only replacements are NOS ($$$$ and hard to find) or Mustang repops that don't fit quite right.

 

[e-tek]

Sorry for the super-sized pics. I'm copying them form the owners PB page.

Looks so good.....but here's some of the work required:

Can you spot the CRAPPY bodywork? It's not that you wouldn't have a few little wrinkles on the back side of a repaired panel, but my standards are much higher than this! With much more hammer and dolly and much less filler, there would ahve been fewer wrinkles - which I then would have finished on this side (the inside), so it would look like there was never a repair made.

In all it'll need front floors and quarter panels, plus whatever pops up once it's hare and gone through. The onwer is stripping it and it'll be painted at Bridge City Collision, owned by a very long-in-the-tooth restoration specialist named Corky. He has done - and owns - many wicked rides that make us the perfect team!

 

[e-tek]

Before the Cougar comes in I'm trying to finish up my Galaxie. Every year it's the same - I want to go a bunch of stuff, but other projects get all my attention - and I want to drive the Gal!!

Today I removed the rear lower control arms - of course what should take an hour, took 3! The bolts where siezed through the bushings and had to be coerced out....

First up, getting the bolts apart:

Screw it, lets cut 'em off!

Had to use every high-persuasion tool I have!

They finally came out (and I nearly tipped the whole effing lift!), but not unscathed:

Now that they're out of the way, I can do the repairs to the frame rails:

Here's just some of what was hiding inside:

I've ordered new bushings from Rock Auto, Front and Rear Sway Bars with poly bushings from PST, shocks, brakes, strut rod bushings and some seals and stuff for the top-side from Dearborn, not to mention the headers and dual 2 1/2" exhaust from SUMMIT (along with my flame-thrower idea!), so it's going to be an AWESOME summer for "OUR GAL"!!!!

I know a lot goes on here at E-tek, so tell me if I'm moving too fast!! HAHa!!

 

[Al Bundy]

The floor in the Cougar isn't the result of a leaking cowl is it? It doesn't look like a typical rusty floor pan.

 

[gustoffur]

More pictures please! I see what appears to be a GT emblem on the fender. Is that an add on or the real deal? I hope the plan includes getting rid of those hideous door ding guards. Save those wheel well moldings if you can. The only replacements are NOS ($$$$ and hard to find) or Mustang repops that don't fit quite right.

What you see is Speedy Gonzales, the fastest mouse in ALL Mekeko! i wish it was a GT. Just a 289 C code with a C4 transmission, nothing too special. it's being built to drive.

 

[Responder]

Man, there is always something happening in that garage! Keep us posted!

 

[preppypyro]

Love reading these threads!

 

[e-tek]

Thanks guys - I try to keep everone interested - especially the missus!!! Not sure who's tougher to please though....

The floor in the Cougar isn't the result of a leaking cowl is it? It doesn't look like a typical rusty floor pan.

Good eye sir! I'll definitely have to check it carefuly and make sure it's properly sealed. The front glass will come out for sure.

What you see is Speedy Gonzales, the fastest mouse in ALL Mekeko! i wish it was a GT. Just a 289 C code with a C4 transmission, nothing too special. it's being built to drive.

Maybe we should transplant the 390 from your truck into her....

 

[gustoffur]

Maybe we should transplant the 390 from your truck into her....

The Ford Racing crate engine will work miracles for this car. I'm still working on the 67 Galaxy with a 390. I think I go get it this spring.

 

[Al Bundy]

What you see is Speedy Gonzales, the fastest mouse in ALL Mekeko! i wish it was a GT. Just a 289 C code with a C4 transmission, nothing too special. it's being built to drive.

That's OK. You can make a 289 run without too much effort. It won't ever be a big block, but they will perform. Nice looking car. I like the color combination.

 

[e-tek]

Thought I'd update y'all on my 46 Merc M1. In this mild winter I've left it outside and have even started it a couple times! I have a thermostatically-controlled block-heater (magnetic) and battery charger on it. It was out front for a few months with Christmas lights on it - just moved it to the back. I love this truck.

As you can see I had the doors lettered last summer - whole nuther story there.... and it's still getting used as it should be!

Here's me taking some engine blocks to the recyclers. They sucked them out of the truck with the giant magnet!

I like this shot - 2 FORD products, 50+ years apart:

This spring the Old Man is getting new tires - full WhiteWalls - and I'll paint the rims a cream color. I've been considering finally switching over to 12V as well. As much as I like the kitchiness and old-school flavour of 6V, it sometimes strands me as it turns over soooo slowly. Everything else remains the same.

 

[Al Bundy]

Man I love those trucks. This is becoming my favorite thread.

 

[MP&C]

The floor in the Cougar isn't the result of a leaking cowl is it? It doesn't look like a typical rusty floor pan.

Ed, here's what he's referring to.... The early Mustangs and Cougars use a cowl vent for fresh air, here is typically what you'll find under the cowl ...

Where the "stovepipe" is supposed to keep your feet dry in rainy conditions, it also serves to trap leaves and debris to create a rust generator. Anytime you have an older Mustang or Cougar, this is the first place to check if there is an indication of water on the front carpets/floorboards.


Good to see the Merc out in use.. Lettering really sets it off!

 

[Omphaloskeptic]

E-tek, I really surprised that the recycler didn't pick up the truck thinking it was scrap! lol
That old beast has tons of character and will be da'bomb with new shoes. Upgrading it to 12 volts won't be too involved, will it? New bulbs, fuses, battery, alternator(?), starter and what else, new harness?

Ya' know, if you go all the way updating the electricals, you might even want to add an 8-track tape player.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

E-Tek, Love the Merc. Ever tempted to go a frame off, balls to the walls redo on it?

 

[Al Bundy]

Ed, here's what he's referring to.... The early Mustangs and Cougars use a cowl vent for fresh air, here is typically what you'll find under the cowl ...

Where the "stovepipe" is supposed to keep your feet dry in rainy conditions, it also serves to trap leaves and debris to create a rust generator. Anytime you have an older Mustang or Cougar, this is the first place to check if there is an indication of water on the front carpets/floorboards.


Good to see the Merc out in use.. Lettering really sets it off!

^This. And on a '67 Cougar or a '68 for that matter, the cowl doesn't come apart, except with some sort of cutting implement. Very time consuming and expensive repair.

 

[James E]

On a side note, it occurred to me. You said the car is badged as a GT but has a 2bbl smallblock. I guess only a Marti report would tell you for sure, but it is a not-well-known fact that in '67, Mustang GT's were available with the C-code 2bbl 289. I believe Cougar engine codes are the same in '67. Perhaps Cougar GT's were also available with the C-code?

 

[Stuart in MN]

This spring the Old Man is getting new tires - full WhiteWalls

Personal opinion only, but I think a work truck should have blackwall tires...

 

[Al Bundy]

On a side note, it occurred to me. You said the car is badged as a GT but has a 2bbl smallblock. I guess only a Marti report would tell you for sure, but it is a not-well-known fact that in '67, Mustang GT's were available with the C-code 2bbl 289. I believe Cougar engine codes are the same in '67. Perhaps Cougar GT's were also available with the C-code?

The GT package came with the 390 4bbl in '67/'68 Cougars. I believe you are mistaken about the Mustang. The GT package for a '67 Mustang came with either a 390 4bbl or a 289 hipo which is a K code. The 289 2 bbl C code was not an option.

 

[James E]

Sorry, absolutely not mistaken about the Mustang in '67. It's the only year you could get the GT with a two barrell. As I said, it's not a well known fact, which is why I don't take umbrage with you disagreeing with me.

But again, since Mustang and Cougar are such close cousins and the Cougar in question is a '67, I wonder if the C-code was also an option on Cougar GT's.

 

[James E]

FYI, just a very quick search for some backup. Some of these guys are MCA judges:

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/492652-c-code-gt.html

Several "reputable" sources will disagree with this--which greatly adds to the confusion, but the facts are already in evidence. Kevin Marti can verify this, as well as Charles Turner, who is a former MCA head judge in this year range and a member of Garage Journal.

I really don't know why Ford did this in '67. They discontinued the practice in '68 so it's only a one-year anomaly. The C-code GT and GTA cars also had single exhaust, which really makes them look like poorly done clones when you see a real one.

 

[santagary]

Thought I'd update y'all on my 46 Merc M1. In this mild winter I've left it outside and have even started it a couple times! I have a thermostatically-controlled block-heater (magnetic) and battery charger on it. It was out front for a few months with Christmas lights on it - just moved it to the back. I love this truck.

As you can see I had the doors lettered last summer - whole nuther story there.... and it's still getting used as it should be!

Here's me taking some engine blocks to the recyclers. They sucked them out of the truck with the giant magnet!

I like this shot - 2 FORD products, 50+ years apart:

This spring the Old Man is getting new tires - full WhiteWalls - and I'll paint the rims a cream color. I've been considering finally switching over to 12V as well. As much as I like the kitchiness and old-school flavour of 6V, it sometimes strands me as it turns over soooo slowly. Everything else remains the same.

Here's a pic of my '46 that I've decided to leave unmolested..."they're only original once."

 

[Al Bundy]

FYI, just a very quick search for some backup. Some of these guys are MCA judges:

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/492652-c-code-gt.html

Several "reputable" sources will disagree with this--which greatly adds to the confusion, but the facts are already in evidence. Kevin Marti can verify this, as well as Charles Turner, who is a former MCA head judge in this year range and a member of Garage Journal.

I really don't know why Ford did this in '67. They discontinued the practice in '68 so it's only a one-year anomaly. The C-code GT and GTA cars also had single exhaust, which really makes them look like poorly done clones when you see a real one.

I stand corrected. I also found a few more sites that support the existence of C code GT Mustangs. If it's on the internet it must be true. LOL But seriously, since Kevin Marti has the production data, I will gladly take his word. Now why anyone would want a competition handling package to go with their 200hp 289 is beyond me. I don't think Ford really thought that one through. I'll bet they're rare as hens teeth.

As for the Cougar, when you chose the GT package, you got the S code 390 4bbl. There was no other engine choice. You could get an S code without ordering the GT package, but not the other way around. In '67 there were exactly 3 engine choices, the A code 289 4bbl, the C code 289 2bbl and the S code 390 4bbl. In '68 the choices were many including the 427 W code. It's always fun to tease the Mustang guys about the fact that they never got a 427 option. In my opinion, the 427 side oiler was hands down the best engine of it's day. Unfortunately the bean counters won out declaring it too expensive to manufacture.

Now in the hope that E-tek will post us some more pictures, I will cease and desist hijacking his thread.

 

[e-tek]

Ed, here's what he's referring to.... The early Mustangs and Cougars use a cowl vent for fresh air, here is typically what you'll find under the cowl ...

Good to see the Merc out in use.. Lettering really sets it off!

Thanks for the heads-up guys. I'll definitely be looking to see what's going on in there in theCougar.

E-tek, I really surprised that the recycler didn't pick up the truck thinking it was scrap! lol
That old beast has tons of character and will be da'bomb with new shoes. Upgrading it to 12 volts won't be too involved, will it? New bulbs, fuses, battery, alternator(?), starter and what else, new harness?

Ya' know, if you go all the way updating the electricals, you might even want to add an 8-track tape player.

You're right on about everything for 12V, but the wiring can stay. As 6V systems need even heavier gauge wiring, it only "too" robust for 12V. I beleive the starter can stay too - maybe just the solenoid has to be swapped.

E-Tek, Love the Merc. Ever tempted to go a frame off, balls to the walls redo on it?

YES! Tempted....but staying away from that so far! It's not all that rough, so it wouldn't be the hardest thing to do, but I've got several others in line before that. As well, the previous owner, a good friend who passed and passed it on to me, liked it like, as do I.
I have thought about brushing or spraying it with flat or semi Rust Bullet. The sent me a bunch of product to test and it's UV stable, unlike POR15.....

Personal opinion only, but I think a work truck should have blackwall tires...

I hear ya, I just thought it would really set off the patina'd look!

Here's a pic of my '46 that I've decided to leave unmolested..."they're only original once."

That is GEORGEOUS! Someone just left me a message about restoring a 48 Ford truck....I'll have to return his call and go take a look!

Cheers to all and thanks for the replies.

 

[e-tek]

Today I removed the rear lower control arms - of course what should have taken an hour - took 3!
The bolts where siezed through to the bushings and had to be coerced out....

First up, getting the bolts apart using a 3 foot extension bar on the 1/2" ratchet:

Screw it, lets cut 'em off! Had to cut the outer ends, then inside the brackets....

In the end I had to use every high-persuasion tool I have!

They finally came out (and I nearly tipped the whole effing lift!), but not unscathed.

In another thread I was saying that a press is one tool I've never made or purchased, as I've rarely needed one and have been able to make do with a vice - or a rig like this:

Now that they're out of the way, I can do the repairs to the rear frame rails:

Here's just some of what was hiding inside:

I've ordered new bushings from RockAuto.com, Front and Rear Sway Bars with poly bushings from PST, shocks, brakes, strut rod bushings and some seals and stuff for the top-side from Dearborn, not to mention headers and dual 2 1/2" exhaust from SUMMIT.

Of course the left rear was MUCH worse than it looked. It was also a dirty mutha fuggin day getting all the rust, dirt, mud and sh1t out!!!

I cut open the bottom, cleaned it up, and then saw that I would to also have to cut at least 1/3 up each side:

Here it is with more cut out. I like to cut abit at a time, in order to make templates from the original pieces. Then I remove that section and make the inner accessible to make templates for the inner pieces.

Once all the parts that are being replaced are cut out, I soaked the rest down in a Phosphoric acid solution. I really like this stuff from POR called Metal Ready will make the remaining surface and any hidden rust inert and make for a better surface to both weld to and apply a rust paint like RUST BULLET to.

Here are the template pieces made from scrap paper and laid out on the sheet of 14 gauge steel plate:

Stay tuned for fitting, welding and finishing.....

 

[Omphaloskeptic]

E-tek, thanks for the points about 6V > 12V conversion. I didn't realize 6V requires a heavier wire; seems counter intuitive to me. My Willys 4X4 is going to need a new harness as the old insulation is just too far gone, so I will be 'expanding my understanding' of electrics in the not-too-distant (hopefully) future.

The old truck will look so sweet with new whitewalls! Santagary's '46 sure looks good with those original(?) hubcaps; have you found any NOS/used hubcaps for yours? I mean that those spiffy new shoes need some BLING, right?

Question regarding the current frame rebuild, is it wise to remove the gas tank whenever grinding, torching, or welding back there? Does anybody know when gas tank vents became 'closed circuits'?

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

E, you're a stronger man than I am. If I had your restoration/fabrication chops I'd be ON the Merc and I'd make it so DAMN nice.

In fact, I'm in process now on something (you COULD do too!) which is I'm doing a "semi-frame-off" while still driving my '55. Not to bore you, but I have no room for a long term derelict in my backyard, so I am doing it in sort of modules. I'm pulling the bed on weekends to strip/blast the frame, replace the brake lines, strip/paint/Teflon-between-fewer-leaf springs, etc and replace the bed.

Then another week, I will pull the front sheet metal in one piece (only 8 bolts & upper/lower radiator hoses) and do more or less the same plus some engine detailing. Last will be an under-the-cab strip with a composite disk on an angle grinder, new cab mount rubber, rust repair and undercoating - its a driver - and so forth.

Personally, because yours is a Merc and as rare as they are, I'd restore it not mild rod it like mine. Not sure I'd use the original color but that's more because I know of a pale yellow '40 Ford pickup with steelies I'd want to duplicate.

Oh well, I'll dream FOR you and live vicariously through you, lol.

 

[machine_punk]

That is a LOT of work! Do you ever ask yourself if it is worth it (I know the parts may not be possible to find anymore, or the amount of time needed just really isn't justified). Is there ever a point where you think it just isn't worth it on any particular car?

Great skills, though...I can appreciate the amount of craftsmanship it takes to complete this depth of restoration.

M_P

 

[santagary]

E-tek, thanks for the points about 6V > 12V conversion. I didn't realize 6V requires a heavier wire; seems counter intuitive to me. My Willys 4X4 is going to need a new harness as the old insulation is just too far gone, so I will be 'expanding my understanding' of electrics in the not-too-distant (hopefully) future.

The old truck will look so sweet with new whitewalls! Santagary's '46 sure looks good with those original(?) hubcaps; have you found any NOS/used hubcaps for yours? I mean that those spiffy new shoes need some BLING, right?

Question regarding the current frame rebuild, is it wise to remove the gas tank whenever grinding, torching, or welding back there? Does anybody know when gas tank vents became 'closed circuits'?

The caps on the truck now are Ford car. I have a new set of 5 SS caps with the correct winged ford logo that I'll install when I get the 4 new coker w.walls. The truck finally runs great (V8) after installing a blocked power valve at the suggestion of Flathead Jack in CA. At our altitude, 7,648' that is a necessity. I'll be removing the transmission this spring and working on 2nd gear which pops out of gear when I'm using it as an engine brake. The paint is 20 years old or so and definitely is a nice 20 footer. Everyone waves when they see the truck passing by. No restoration though is planned...it's just too nice to pull apart I feel.

 

[gustoffur]

Here are a few pictures of the Cougar cowl vents. Not perfect, but not too bad, either. POR15 to the rescue.

Driver's side

Passenger's side

 

[e-tek]

E-tek, thanks for the points about 6V > 12V conversion. I didn't realize 6V requires a heavier wire; seems counter intuitive to me.

I learned it using the "hose" analogy: Volts is the pressure, AMPS is the current.

6V systems used a heavier guage wire, which is OK for 12V, but not vice versa.

Question regarding the current frame rebuild, is it wise to remove the gas tank whenever grinding, torching, or welding back there? Does anybody know when gas tank vents became 'closed circuits'?

As you may know, I'm no Safety-Clerk. But I prolly should have removed the tank. It's on my mind the entire time I'm working back there, but if you think of all the work done around cars with the tanks in - it's very rare they ignite - without a leak present. Plus I guard my sparks and keep the extinguishers handy!

E, you're a stronger man than I am. If I had your restoration/fabrication chops I'd be ON the Merc and I'd make it so DAMN nice.

The Merc is on m mind to do, but I LOVE the Galaxie, want to continue driving it every summer - and I like the MErc the way it is!

I have no room for a long term derelict in my backyard, so I am doing it in sort of modules.
Oh well, I'll dream FOR you and live vicariously through you, lol.

That's a good idea - to do it in parts - I HATE to have a non-runner in the yard too. I'm just doing what I can while still having it ready to drivec come spring time.

That is a LOT of work! Do you ever ask yourself if it is worth it (I know the parts may not be possible to find anymore, or the amount of time needed just really isn't justified). Is there ever a point where you think it just isn't worth it on any particular car?

Great skills, though...I can appreciate the amount of craftsmanship it takes to complete this depth of restoration.

M_P

**** yes!!! I like to "Save" stuff tho - especially cars I like or have some meaning.

Here are a few pictures of the Cougar cowl vents. Not perfect, but not too bad, either. POR15 to the rescue.

Driver's side

Passenger's side

Good photo's Trent! Looks clean - but one can see where the leak starts - so we'll be sure to seal it up properly before we apply the POR15 (or Rust Bullet!)

And speaking of rust.... ....

We have the technology to make it faster, better, stronger than it was before. Let's SAVE the patient doctor!

In some spots, I like to drill holes in order to spot weld a new piece to a repair panel:

Like this:

IT's ALIVE!! I little make-up and.....

One more and we're done!! Then I can get to the fun stuff - dual exhaust and flame throwers!!

 

[e-tek]

Let's make that repair look a little better:

Here's where all the magic happens:

As well, the '56 Chevrolet left today on the flatdeck. Drove it out of the shop and ran 'er right up the ramp deck! Took 2 tries due to the ice, but on the second try I took a good 20 foot run and up she went - thank GOD the brakes worked! I love finishing a restoration. Soemthing to show for a couple years of my life. Something for someone else to enjoy. I hope he does.

 

[e-tek]

All the Torque boxes are now done!

Then I got onto the new dual exhaust.

This is what it had for many years (2 into one, 1 3/4")

To this full dual 2 1/2" system, welded, not clamped:

If I have time I'll also install a flame-thrower system I've been wanting to do for years!

Now I just need to install the suspension parts: KYB Shocks, bushings, PST Sway bars (F&R) and brake shoes. After that I have new speakers for the stereo and it'll be a whole new ride this summer! (Can you tell I'm excited....)

 

[e-tek]

Ok boys - this land yacht is gonna ride like it's on RAILS this summer. It's gonna be a FIRE BREATHING (literally), corner carving, ricer burning titanic of the tarmac!

After all that work on the torque boxes and frame it must be as stiff as a 14 year old boy in a bus full of strippers....

ANyways....I just got the massive front swaybar from PST installed, waiting on an equally massive rear bar, put new KYB Gas shocks all around, installed new bushings in the slack rear arms and new brake shoes!! I've even got new poly bushings for the front to go in too.

To tune up the engine (before the swap), I'm installing an Air/Fuel gauge to see just how far off that carb has been all these years and I even bought new speakers to go in the rear trim panels.

I cannot wait for summer - once I start pulling ahead of some tuner, I can light my exhaust up and REALLY burn 'em! (OK I'm excited...)

 

[machine_punk]

Looks like you are having fun! I cannot wait to see this thing finished. This is a cool project.

M_B