Earth-build garages, what do you know?

[NC357]

I'll ask again. How do you plan on supporting the roof? We cannot give you any advice if you refuse to tell us what you are trying to build.

You seem to be the only one thread crapping here. Also, when you post on a public forum, you do not get to decide who replies and who doesn't.

 

[tjdux]

Not trying to be another ****** here. When i said 100 yards i was exaggerating a lot. I didn't so any math at all.

I am curous how much roof load per square foot the earth structure will need? Or what yoi figure the earth on top weights. That also helps me understand the roof trusses better.
I think the other guys point wasnt that all interior walls of a house are load bearing but some are. Also that most homes don't have 30ft free spans.

When i first read your question i felt you hadn't done much or any homework... Clearly you have and i actually would love to learn more about what you know.

Signiture; Check out my garage progress http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=352703

 

[ryan77]

I do like my set up, I did an additional quote, by full 14 tall poured concrete walls and it was close to the same price as the 2x6 framing, when the weather gets bad sometimes I do wish I went concrete all the way, my concern was moisture and insulation, there were no all concrete buildings for me to look at to decide, I did a brick stamp on the outside stem walls, I will paint that to match my house brickwork.

 

[dadsEH]

Dig the hole and drop in a couple of containers

 

[NC357]

Funny how when pressed for any information he disappears. Likely never considered how incredibly expensive it would be to install and maintain a roof on something like that.

I'm still curious how he thought he was going to pull that off.

 

[OldSoldier]

I'm going to add my .02 to this for either the OP benefit or to anyone else curious about what might be required to actually build this. I'm not familiar with labor rates in the OP location nor his cost of materials but I build concrete structures, often subsurface and sometimes they call for up to 4' of soil on the top podium deck (roof here) so I have some experience. The slab on grade will wash with stick cost slabs except for the perimeter footing. Remember that a subsurface wall will require a footing to resist the lateral pressure of the dirt and water (maybe not much in this case) so plan for that. Your wall concrete may be accurate but don't forget the rebar required (plan for 5 pounds per SF) or the waterproofing. Also you need to form it (my concrete can't levitate) and get it into the forms. Your lid can span 30' but I'd assume your engineer will require about a 10" slab to span that far with even very minimal dirt on top. 12" might be more realistic. I'd think that post tensioned slabs will be most cost effective and will seal better against moisture. Admixtures in the concrete matrix like xypex or aquafin will be good at waterproofing the walls and lid but add in the neighborhood of $50-75 per yard. You need to remember to add money for scaffolding, plywood for decking, the rebar and PT cables in the deck and the conveyance of the concrete onto the roof. This should probably be done by professionals but it will be sweet when it is done. Beware the fallacy of thinking that concrete is your only big material expenditure. Concrete needs to be formed, reinforced, pumped etc so it isn't quite as simple as laid out here so far. Hope that helps!

 

[Fatboy148]

Ill just throw this out there for the folks that are talking steel beams and decking with a cast in place concrete deck.

https://oldcastleprecast.com/wp-content/uploads/hollowcore-guide-2010.pdf

Not inexpensive but doable. I am lucky, they have a plant about three hour drive (each way) from me.