Eave Overhang Length?

[karoc]

Since I will be ordering roof trusses when time comes, I am rethinking my 16" overhang. Thinking about maybe 24" overhang so that water will be further away from the exterior wall and will help with rain water splashing up on wall. I don't know what the cost difference would be to go from 16" to 24" overhang. What would you go with if you had a choice on length of your overhang? I really don't want gutters mainly where I live now that twice year they have to be cleaned and downspouts. Such a pain, and I'm not young anymore

 

[jack stand]

You'll never regret having longer overhangs and the cost is insignificant, especially if it avoids repairs later and it will.

 

[billconner]

I choose 16" for my 28x32 with 6:12 pitch because it looked good in drawing with good proportions, after looking at others around here.

I do plan gutters and have pipes in the ground to drain to daylight, besides super draining soil - all sand - that drains extremely well.

 

[Copymutt]

Longer is better, pretend your from Scandinavia. Primarily for foundation protection, but also keeps **** from splashing on your siding as well as keeps an otherwise hot sunny wall more in the shade. Can also hang entertainment from them, bird feeders etc. Mine are at 2’ & I still have to shovel the dang snow away from the wall.

 

[Jinks]

When we remodeled our house the original had 24" eaves. The builder complained "you don't need that much eave". I insisted on keeping the 24". I'm happy I did! We only have rain gutters around one corner at our patio, & don't need them anywhere else. I've also looked at other, newer, homes that don't have eaves that deep. They look cheap........

 

[ycgoat]

I do not what the code is but I have a 42" over hang off the back of my garage which is very handy.

 

[Innovate1]

I have about 8" on the house as I recall. Was a little tight putting boxes in for outdoor lights and such. That seems to be the "in" style and what is commonly done - for one thing it saves the builder a little cash. I did longer on the south side. For the recent shop I did 16". Didn't have any electrical there but wanted a decent amount of vented soffit for the whole house fan. Even without the fan, larger inlet and ridge vents are more effective for venting and should save some cooling $ (or keep the place a bit cooler without AC). 24" seemed like a little large. I would say 16 - 24 is a good, general range. If you want summer shading of a south wall then you will need more. On the house we have about a 5' overhang but 4' is porch. Works great to keep summer sun from coming in the windows.

For trusses I like raised heel. This allows for more insulation near the ends and should be minimal extra cost.

 

[billconner]

Definitely do raised heel on trusses if you think you'd ever insulate.

Maroc - you're not in snow country but I would think much past 2 to 3' up here - 60 psf snow load - and they might have to upsize the overhang rafter.

 

[ybnormal]

Since I will be ordering roof trusses when time comes, I am rethinking my 16" overhang. Thinking about maybe 24" overhang so that water will be further away from the exterior wall and will help with rain water splashing up on wall. I don't know what the cost difference would be to go from 16" to 24" overhang. What would you go with if you had a choice on length of your overhang? I really don't want gutters mainly where I live now that twice year they have to be cleaned and downspouts. Such a pain, and I'm not young anymore

you're in Hemphill so close to the Gulf which means lots of hurricane weather when it hits. also, is this a barn-do? if so you'll want the deep eaves for shade. my next house is going to have a front porch at least 6-8' deep for the shade and weather protection to the walls

 

[dmcintosh]

Why not consider gutter guards during the build? All the benefits of the gutter and almost none of the work.

 

[CombatNinja]

More eave = more better. Love my 20" overhang front and rear. Hate my wimpy 8" on the sides. Guess which sides had issues with the masonite siding getting bad spots? Just resided the whole house, had them add oversized gutters to effectively give me 25" overhang front and now 13" on the sides (there were no gutters previously on the gable ends). I'd have 3' of eave if I were custom building, especially with the wicked heat we have in my part of the Carolinas. I honestly don't feel like 24" is enough to keep the splashing away if you are not doing gutters. Maybe it does not rain much in your part of Texas? Too many tropical systems come my way to even consider being without them (though I see it on homes around me).

 

[BombShelter]

No gutters are a basement waterproofers and concrete flatwork guys best friend. Every home should have them if you live in an area with any rain. If your in the design phase, I'd run 6" min diameter solid PVC pipe underground elbowing up to the downspouts and daylighting out in the yard. Put this in before any sidewalks or driveways. It's amazing how many homes are built with no thought of rain water flow other than a swall or two on the property border.

Up here overhang comes into play with ice dams, the further out the roof sticks, the colder it gets and water gets inside the overhang box when the winter day thaw hits but freezes at night.

 

[karoc]

Thanks for all the input looks like I will go with the 24" Believe it or not hurricanes is a problem up there which is why going to figure in those Simpsons ties into build. No barndo but I was wanting one, but since this is a more of a DIY project I went with just stick framing and trusses 24" OC with foil back sheathing for roof. I figure that I could handle stick framing by myself which I will be posting what I have done so far and kinda explain more detail for the stick framing.

 

[TurnipTruck]

My fifty-year-old house has 48” eaves on 5/12 pitch. It keeps the significant snow build up away from the house and allows a deck under the overhang that I don’t have to shovel snow from.

 

[MushCreek]

Since I designed my house to look 'Craftsman', I went with 24" overhangs all around. I had to put gutters on, though. The water dumping off of the roof made huge trenches in the yard. Maybe it's the tin roof; water pours off in a sheet during a downpour.

 

[Innovate1]

Thanks for all the input looks like I will go with the 24" Believe it or not hurricanes is a problem up there which is why going to figure in those Simpsons ties into build. No barndo but I was wanting one, but since this is a more of a DIY project I went with just stick framing and trusses 24" OC with foil back sheathing for roof. I figure that I could handle stick framing by myself which I will be posting what I have done so far and kinda explain more detail for the stick framing.

Instead of ties you should consider screws. I forget who makes them but they make long screw that go up through the top plates and into the trusses. That's what I used and quick and easy. the metal straps may hold more though.

 

[Firebrick43]

I put 30" on my addition, wish I had done 36" I have never understood the desire to save 5 bucks on building to loose 20 down the road on builiding maintenance/damage due to water intrusion issues .

 

[wood02]

I have 24" eaves on my house. I have 6" eaves on my garage. The house was built in 1925. The garage was built in 1991. Do yourself a favor and go with the 24", you will be glad you did. I tend to follow the "function over form" theory.

 

[gtae07]

If you're in hurricane country check your local code requirements. I built to the prescreptive guide (WFCM 120mph supplement) which IIRC limited me to 12in. I could probably have gone longer for more $ and having to get my plans stamped but that wasn't in the cards.

 

[Wayne67vert]

I really like my 36 inch eaves. They provide shade and help keep down the cooling bill here in Florida.

 

[ddurrett896]

I did 22" and with brick+airgap, I land on 16" like my house.

 

[mejhaha]

Agree with larger eves, raised heel trusses and at a minimum hurricane ties. Headlok or Simpson timber screws are also a good recommendation. I did both screws and ties.

When I recently priced trusses there was no cost differences for non raised heel vs raised heel. This also makes it easier to create vent baffles for soffit venting if you are going to be blowing insulation.

Recently I heard one of the building science gurus say anything less than 16” overhangs are “overhang deficient”.

 

[CombatNinja]

As stated above, there are often good reasons why eaves are certain 'cookie cutter' sizes in certain climates. Ice damming is one reason you may not see large eaves in cold climates. If your climate supports it, having larger eaves pays huge dividends in terms of managing water around the foundation, preserving the integrity of siding and shading windows from the hot sun. As long as it works from an aesthetic standpoint, I would encourage anyone to go with 'oversized' 6" gutters to gain even one extra inch over standard. Every little bit of overhang helps.

 

[egdede]

Instead of ties you should consider screws. I forget who makes them but they make long screw that go up through the top plates and into the trusses. That's what I used and quick and easy. the metal straps may hold more though.

fasten master sells big long screws rated and named for such. i'm sure there is a GRK screw that will do...too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OCIMEU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[CombatNinja]

Some codes have not caught up to the screws yet and still require ties to pass inspection. I did both on my shed so the roof would (hopefully) not come off and smash into my house.

 

[Sumboodie]

Dpends on the size of the building. 2 foot overhang would look ok on a large building, but strange on a small one.

My currently house and outbuilding have 18" overhangs and it's nice. Helps keep rain and snow away from the sides of the buildings.

 

[Sumboodie]

As stated above, there are often good reasons why eaves are certain 'cookie cutter' sizes in certain climates. Ice damming is one reason you may not see large eaves in cold climates. If your climate supports it, having larger eaves pays huge dividends in terms of managing water around the foundation, preserving the integrity of siding and shading windows from the hot sun. As long as it works from an aesthetic standpoint, I would encourage anyone to go with 'oversized' 6" gutters to gain even one extra inch over standard. Every little bit of overhang helps.

I've never heard anything about eave size related to cold temps.

Insulated and seal properly and ice damming isn't an issue.

 

[CombatNinja]

Not so much an issue with closed soffits. Most homes in the south will have vented soffits to keep roof decks and attics cooler. If you happen to have vented soffit and large overhangs where it gets properly cold, ice damming can be a real issue. OP is in Texas where it gets hot but also cold so something to consider for him perhaps.

 

[karoc]

I do not what the code is but I have a 42" over hang off the back of my garage which is very handy.

Not so much an issue with closed soffits. Most homes in the south will have vented soffits to keep roof decks and attics cooler. If you happen to have vented soffit and large overhangs where it gets properly cold, ice damming can be a real issue. OP is in Texas where it gets hot but also cold so something to consider for him perhaps.

Good point, we do have few days of freezing temps and believe it or not little snow but doesn't stick in our area. But like others saying the attic will be vented, doing HVAC work in my younger days my pocket thermometer while in attic would read 140 above. Heck way to make a living

 

[Sumboodie]

Not so much an issue with closed soffits. Most homes in the south will have vented soffits to keep roof decks and attics cooler. If you happen to have vented soffit and large overhangs where it gets properly cold, ice damming can be a real issue. OP is in Texas where it gets hot but also cold so something to consider for him perhaps.

Why?

A vented soffit keeps the roof cold. Cold roof means the snow isn't melting. Only time my roof ices up a bit is in spring when the sun is warm and then it gets cold at night.
But it's a non issue. Even if it went under the roofing, there's ice and water shield (required by code)

 

[CombatNinja]

Look dude, if you can't see why someone would not want ice dams on their roof, then you are either nuts or just being argumentative. You live in Arkansas and just said yourself that there are times when you get ice on the roof. The whole thing about an ice dam is that it forms at a cold spot (ie the eave) and liquid water runs off the warmer (higher) parts and gets backed up and runs under shingles and causes issues. Texas is hot but it also has a winter where the OP is. Sure, a vented roof in theory has the attic space close to ambient temp but it doesn't always work that way. Climate is something to consider when figuring out how big to make your eaves

 

[billconner]

Ice dams result from ceiling leaking heat. Seal and insulate well, snow won't melt, no ice dams. The darndest part is the venting exacerbates the leaking, resulting in more snow melt. Negative pressure and air washing over insulation just help the positive pressure inside the thermal envelope, and waste energy. Plenty of vented and unvented roofs with and without ice dams, but manufacturers and roofing contractors make more money selling vents, and do a good job at selling it.

 

[kbs2244]

go with the 24
but also go with gutters and downspouts
get good "gutter guards"
I have them after the gutter contractor put them in without asking
they work in a treed filled lot in north IL

 

[73project]

I have a 1965 ranch with 24" overhangs and I love them! It keeps most of the rain/snow away from the foundation. If I built a home I would not change a thing!

 

[slowtwitch73]

Go long.. will pay for themselves in saved siding upkeep later and utility bills if done right.

Keep in mind there is often code about what underlayment goes under the shingles etc in ragards to eave length..

 

[Sumboodie]

Look dude, if you can't see why someone would not want ice dams on their roof, then you are either nuts or just being argumentative. You live in Arkansas and just said yourself that there are times when you get ice on the roof. The whole thing about an ice dam is that it forms at a cold spot (ie the eave) and liquid water runs off the warmer (higher) parts and gets backed up and runs under shingles and causes issues. Texas is hot but it also has a winter where the OP is. Sure, a vented roof in theory has the attic space close to ambient temp but it doesn't always work that way. Climate is something to consider when figuring out how big to make your eaves

I live in Alaska "dude". I think I know what cold is. No need to be rude!

 

[slowtwitch73]

We are in the rockies.. lots of snow n cold, no ice dams.. very large eaves.

 

[Jazz1]

I did 24” eaves,,offers decent shelter so I dont have to dig through snow for steel, firewood. Id go 36” in my next lifetime

 

[Jim_No_Garage]

My house has 24" soffits on the eaves and "ships prow" gables that go from 24" down low to 36" at the peaks. On day #2 in the house we opened the front door to depart and into a huge summer downpour, but since NO rain was hitting the windows we had no idea it was raining outside.

Cheers

Jim

 

[CombatNinja]

It is quite remarkable how large eaves prevent a multitude of issues starting at the foundation, moving up to the window sills and door thresholds and going right up to the eaves on all the siding.