Electric Heat Load Questions

[frankush]

Fasco was a quality brand before they got bought out. You don't add the amperages on both wires. If the load is somewhat balanced, you will have the identical amount running through both feeders. If not consider the higher amperage of the two. What btu ratings are the heaters you're looking at? Your space is insulated about the same as mine. I would pick up a portable unit thats rated at 5000watts and wire up a temporary receptacle for it. The portables are cord and plug. Plug it in and let it run for an hour. See if it makes a difference and if that difference is what you can live with. You could always get a second one or return the first if it's a no go.

I would also consider one of these. The amperage is getting up there, but I think this is a serious possibility. Qmark is a well known commercial brand. The ideal setup would have two stage electric heat. A two stage unit would have two electric heating coils in it. Both come on when it's really cold, but only one when it's maintaining a setpoint. I don't know if that arrangement is made in that small of a unit.

http://www.heateroutlet.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=96

It may say its rated for 850 sq ft, but that's not alot of btus. It requires a 50A breaker but only draws 38A. If you keep the temp around 50 and only raise it up when you're in there, it will probably raise the temp at a decent rate. It also puts the heat out at floor level and we all know heat rises. It would be my first pick if I was going electric. I really think it's the best "bang" for the buck. That's also the lowest price I could find on a counterflow furnace. You also need a 50A, 2 pole breaker, the associated wiring and a 15A mini breaker for your existing panel.

 

[ishiboo]

Son of a gosh darn *****. So, I stupidly thought the 20 Amps on the black wire was all I had. I needed to add the 16 or 18 or whatever it was on the red wire to get my total? So it's more like 36-38 Amps with all that stuff cranking? I wonder how much it would be without the compressor going, which I don't plan on ever running when I am heating the space.

Bad news or good news first?

Bad news is yes - you need to count both legs. So your count was low.

The good news is 60A service is 240V - so you have 120 amps at 120v available, or 60A at 240v. Or an combination thereof. I would start adding things up for your predicted load, not just with what you have running now but what you'd plan to. And then base your calculations on that.

The end result is going to be this:

1. You can squeeze by having two electric heaters AND use some electricity on your existing service. It will be better than no heat

2. The heaters you pick will probably underperform for you

3. You will wish you would have made an investment in gas, or if you live in an area where electric is cheap enough that it is worthwhile, made a service upgrade

Whether or not it's worth it really depends on each individual's situation... it might be right for you, or it might be better to wait? Personally, I'd get a 125k BTU torpedo heater and run kerosene in it

 

[ishiboo]

Fasco was a quality brand before they got bought out. You don't add the amperages on both wires. If the load is somewhat balanced, you will have the identical amount running through both feeders. If not consider the higher amperage of the two. What btu ratings are the heaters you're looking at?

What Frank is saying is that if everything was a 240v load, you could do all 240v math and come up with the correct answer. Also true if your 120v loads were equally balanced.

I would say though that with only 240V device and all other 120 breakers, I would figure out the exact number... it only takes a second longer.

 

[frankush]

With the upcoming sale at Zoro, here's the Dayton version. 26% off and free shipping makes it the low price leader.

http://www.zorotools.com/g/Electric Wall Heaters/00053700/

I'm looking at the 9200 watt version and I'm not trying to spend your money Bull. I figure you can do that just as easily.

 

[Bull]

With the upcoming sale at Zoro, here's the Dayton version. 26% off and free shipping makes it the low price leader.

http://www.zorotools.com/g/Electric Wall Heaters/00053700/

I'm looking at the 9200 watt version and I'm not trying to spend your money Bull. I figure you can do that just as easily.

Well, I have backed away from the 9-10Kw models because of the folks here who said they draw too many amps for my service, and that I'd be walking a thin line with them.

I bought a 5.7 Kw unit from Amazon. It was supposed to be here yesterday but storms delayed it. I have also asked a fellow on this site for a quote on his two Dayton G73 heaters that he is selling. They are also in the 5Kw range, I believe.

My electrician friend suggested using some kind of a switch (can't recall what name he used) and putting the two heaters on one circuit. You'd flip the switch to control which heater was going to be allowed to come on. You guys know the name for this?

He also is afraid to put a larger panel with a 100 amp breaker out there. I thought you guys were saying that the panel would still be protected by the 60 amp fuse that is in the main panel in the house, and that the 100 amp breaker in a larger sub panel would just serve as an on/off switch. But, I could not recall (and probably did not understand) the details when I was on the phone with him.