Electrical for new Bendpak Lift

[Al G]

When my garage was built the electrician ran 10/2 to supply 240 v 30amp to future lift location. He didn't put in breaker or receptacle because I didn't know specific requirement at the time.

I ordered the lift a while back and it was scheduled to be installed yesterday. I checked on line for electric requirements so I could be ready for installation. It requires a 25 amp breaker. Last weekend I picked up the breaker and then looked for receptacle and plug. They only come in 20 or 30 amp. So what to I put on a 25 amp circuit? I choose the 30 mostly because that was all they had in 240 volt locking configuration. (Receptacle is ceiling mounted.) Since the circuit is dedicated to the lift I'm not worried about someone plugging in a 30 amp load.

I also picked up 12' of SJOOW 10/3 to make up the power cord.

So yesterday the lift is delivered. It comes with about a 3" lead that the installer connected a jumper to just to test the function. Everything works fine. This morning I go to make up the power cord and find it won't fit through the fitting on the lift. Take a closer look and see the 3" lead is only SJOOW 14/3. On a 25 amp circuit? Can that be right?

So do I make up my power cord using 14/3 or get a new fitting that will fit the 10/3. I assume since the manufacturer used 14/3 that's all I need but why a 25 amp breaker?

 

[Want2race]

Check the load on the motor. Here is the general rule of thumb

14ga-15amps
12ga-20 amps
10ga-30 amps

If you are over the rating then go to the next size up.also posting a picture of the motor plate and connection hole you are concerned about and we may be able to help more

 

[Bert_]

The manufacturer can get away with a 14-3 cord because the lift only runs for minutes at a time. The 25A breaker is to prevent trips due to high current on startup.

If I had some 14-3 cord I would use it and not worry a bit.

 

[macdabs]

Use a welder plug and wire with 10-3.
Mac

 

[Norcal]

25A is a standard size for fuses or a circuit breaker, if too hard to find a 25A breaker put a 30A fusible switch w/ 25A fuses on the lift, it's nice to have a disconnect close.

 

[Al G]

25A is a standard size for fuses or a circuit breaker, if too hard to find a 25A breaker put a 30A fusible switch w/ 25A fuses on the lift, it's nice to have a disconnect close.

The 25 amp breaker was easy to find. It's the wire size that I'm asking about.

 

[Al G]

Use a welder plug and wire with 10-3.
Mac

I have 10/3 cord and a plug that it fits. The question is about whether I really need 10/3 since it doesn't fit the compression fitting on the lift.

 

[Al G]

The manufacturer can get away with a 14-3 cord because the lift only runs for minutes at a time. The 25A breaker is to prevent trips due to high current on startup.

If I had some 14-3 cord I would use it and not worry a bit.

Thanks. That's probably what I'll do.

 

[pattenp]

From the BendPak manual......
1. Have a certified electrician run the power supply to motor. Refer to the data plate found on the motor for proper power supply and wire size.




*

 

[pattenp]

If using a 25A breaker and an outlet the circuit wire will need to be #10 NM-b or #12 THHN in conduit and the outlet will need to be 30A rated. The cord used between the 30A plug and power unit is not considered part of the circuit that is covered by the NEC. If you hardwire the power unit then the breaker can exceed the amp rating of the circuit wiring when supplying a motor load. Once you put a plug and outlet into the mix things change.

 

[Norcal]

The 25 amp breaker was easy to find. It's the wire size that I'm asking about.

10 AWG is a safe choice.

 

[sberry]

The 14 cord is fine. You can put a 30 on it wont hurt a thing. The hoist only runs a minute and the motor does not draw enough power to overload the wire and even acts a bit as a choke for starts in some sense, doesnt hurt a thing and the 14 is rated for 30A short circuit here. If you hard wired it could have used a 12 wire in a cable and possibly even 14 in pipe with the 30. As the man said, if you go to a recept it needs to be a number 10 with 30.

 

[wssix99]

and then looked for receptacle and plug.

Why wouldn't you just direct wire the thing? It's much easier and straight forward, especially since the lift is bolted to the floor and you can't move it.

 

[American Locomotive]

The best thing to do is read the motor nameplate and see what it actually requires.

From what I can find, Bendpak's hydraulic pump/motor assemblies seem to max out at 2.5 HP, which would be just fine on a 12 - possibly 14 gauge wire on 230v. 10 would be ridiculous overkill. I also probably wouldn't put a 25 amp breaker on a 2.5HP 230v motor either. That would allow for a significant overload of the motor.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

I'd run #12s to it like an ac condenser on a 25a circuit.

 

[Al G]

Why wouldn't you just direct wire the thing? It's much easier and straight forward, especially since the lift is bolted to the floor and you can't move it.

Not hardwired because I may want or need to move it sometime. It's not bolted to the floor and I ordered the caster kit for moving.

 

[sberry]

Since you have a 10 building wire put a 30 recept on it.

 

[pattenp]

Yes, just put in a standard 30A circuit with a 6-30R outlet. And put a 6-30P plug on the lift cord and enjoy your lift. I'd try to use a 12/3 cord if possible, especially if the cord is long, more than 6 or 8 ft.

 

[wssix99]

Not hardwired because I may want or need to move it sometime. It's not bolted to the floor and I ordered the caster kit for moving.

Ah - gotcha.


I don't have experience with these outlets on the ceiling, but I would think this might be a good place for a twist lock receptacle. Thoughts? Would that just invite disaster if someone moved the lift and forgot about the plug?

 

[Al G]

Yes, just put in a standard 30A circuit with a 6-30R outlet. And put a 6-30P plug on the lift cord and enjoy your lift. I'd try to use a 12/3 cord if possible, especially if the cord is long, more than 6 or 8 ft.

That's the receptacle and plug I purchased when I started this. Got the locking versions. I just finished putting on a 12/3 cord. Even that was a tight fit in the wiring compartment they provide.

 

[Al G]

From the BendPak manual......
1. Have a certified electrician run the power supply to motor. Refer to the data plate found on the motor for proper power supply and wire size.




*

Data plate makes no mention of wire size. Just voltage. HP is listed as 4.

 

[American Locomotive]

What is the rated current on the motor's data plate in amps?

 

[pattenp]

HP determines wire size. 4HP is 22.5A, so you need 30A circuit supply conductors. This is per NEC.

 

[posservice]

I recently installed my Bendpak lift and used 10/3 wire to a outlet in the ceiling. I then used rubber cord to the lift motor.

 

[forAK]

When my garage was built the electrician ran 10/2 to supply 240 v 30amp to future lift location. He didn't put in breaker or receptacle because I didn't know specific requirement at the time.

I ordered the lift a while back and it was scheduled to be installed yesterday. I checked on line for electric requirements so I could be ready for installation. It requires a 25 amp breaker. Last weekend I picked up the breaker and then looked for receptacle and plug. They only come in 20 or 30 amp. So what to I put on a 25 amp circuit? I choose the 30 mostly because that was all they had in 240 volt locking configuration. (Receptacle is ceiling mounted.) Since the circuit is dedicated to the lift I'm not worried about someone plugging in a 30 amp load.

I also picked up 12' of SJOOW 10/3 to make up the power cord.

So yesterday the lift is delivered. It comes with about a 3" lead that the installer connected a jumper to just to test the function. Everything works fine. This morning I go to make up the power cord and find it won't fit through the fitting on the lift. Take a closer look and see the 3" lead is only SJOOW 14/3. On a 25 amp circuit? Can that be right?

So do I make up my power cord using 14/3 or get a new fitting that will fit the 10/3. I assume since the manufacturer used 14/3 that's all I need but why a 25 amp breaker?

This has me really confused, sorry. Why would the electrician run 10/2 to the box and then you install 14/3? Why would you add a neutral to the mix? I can't even picture how you would.

 

[alfredeneuman]

This has me really confused, sorry. Why would the electrician run 10/2 to the box and then you install 14/3? Why would you add a neutral to the mix? I can't even picture how you would.

A neutral isn't in the mix

The NM cable doesn't include the ground wire in the conductor count.
The cord does include the ground

 

[posservice]

A neutral isn't in the mix

The NM cable doesn't include the ground wire in the conductor count.
The cord does include the ground

 

[forAK]

A neutral isn't in the mix

The NM cable doesn't include the ground wire in the conductor count.
The cord does include the ground

Gotcha, I think. I've always thought when referenced as 10/2, it would be 2 blacks (hot) and a ground. Then referenced as say 10/3, it would be 2 blacks (hot), 1 white (neutral) and a ground.

I just got both confused. Thanks for the clarification.

 

[zmotorsports]

I recently installed my Bendpak lift and used 10/3 wire to a outlet in the ceiling. I then used rubber cord to the lift motor.

This is how I wired my Ammco 10k pound lift when I installed it with one additional option, I also wired in a double pole/single throw switch to kill power to the power unit. I ran SO cord from the ceiling with a strain relief, down the column securing the SO cord with a couple of frame clamps and into a switch before the power unit.

Mike.

 

[posservice]

My circuit breaker is fairly close so I just shut off power to the unit when not in use. I may install a switch later on.

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk

 

[zmotorsports]

My circuit breaker is fairly close so I just shut off power to the unit when not in use. I may install a switch later on.

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk

My breaker panel was clear across the shop so this is why I opted to install a switch. If your panel is close then probably no reason to add any more expense to it.

Mike.

 

[Al G]

So you brought the Bendpak whip into an added jbox to connect your cord. What guage is the whip coming out of the Bendpak switch box?

 

[posservice]

Yes. This came from Bendpak and is 12ga stranded. I've seen some that said it was 14ga but when I spoke to Bendpak they said it was 12ga.



Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk

 

[Al G]

Yes. This came from Bendpak and is 12ga stranded. I've seen some that said it was 14ga but when I spoke to Bendpak they said it was 12ga.



Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk

Mine came with 14 ga, clearly imprinted on the insulation, which started this discussion. I guess Bendpak isn't very consistent in what they use, especially since I have a higher hp rating.

 

[posservice]

I just had a chance to check and you're correct. It is 14ga stranded.

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk

 

[mm08822]

The 4" round box does not appear to be grounded. It should also be mechically secured to the other box with at least 1 screw/nut & bolt -preferably 2. The plastic strain relief acting as a chase ****** is not enough to secure the box.

 

[bobmulry]

Just a thought...............

Looking at the motor data plate it states 2.5 HP and FLA 11 amps......

The old rule of thumb was at 230 volts 7 amps per HP......

With an FLA of 11 amps this looks like a 1.5 HP 230 volt motor....

I guess that they use an HP rating of 2.5 to fool the customer into thinking that their motor was in fact a 2.5 HP motor.....

I am so confused by the made up HP ratings that some manufactures use...

Bob

 

[wyliesdiesels]

The best thing to do is read the motor nameplate and see what it actually requires.

From what I can find, Bendpak's hydraulic pump/motor assemblies seem to max out at 2.5 HP, which would be just fine on a 12 - possibly 14 gauge wire on 230v. 10 would be ridiculous overkill. I also probably wouldn't put a 25 amp breaker on a 2.5HP 230v motor either. That would allow for a significant overload of the motor.

Most small motors have integral overload protection.

And the NEC allows oversized breakers on motor circuits to allow for in-rush current and to prevent nuissance tripping. In this regard, the breaker only provides ground fault and short circuit protection.

Just a thought...............

Looking at the motor data plate it states 2.5 HP and FLA 11 amps......

The old rule of thumb was at 230 volts 7 amps per HP......

With an FLA of 11 amps this looks like a 1.5 HP 230 volt motor....

I guess that they use an HP rating of 2.5 to fool the customer into thinking that their motor was in fact a 2.5 HP motor.....

I am so confused by the made up HP ratings that some manufactures use...

Bob

Yes manu. do that constantly.

Just the reason why u have to read the FLA rating on the nameplate. If its way off from a typical motor of the same HP rating then u know it has lower HP rating.

Fo example, most 5HP motprs are around 23a and the NEC FLC table lists 5HP 240v single phase motor with an FLC of 28a.

If your 5HP motor has an FLA of say 15, then u know its way smaller than 5HP.

 

[checkthisout]

When my garage was built the electrician ran 10/2 to supply 240 v 30amp to future lift location. He didn't put in breaker or receptacle because I didn't know specific requirement at the time.

I ordered the lift a while back and it was scheduled to be installed yesterday. I checked on line for electric requirements so I could be ready for installation. It requires a 25 amp breaker. Last weekend I picked up the breaker and then looked for receptacle and plug. They only come in 20 or 30 amp. So what to I put on a 25 amp circuit? I choose the 30 mostly because that was all they had in 240 volt locking configuration. (Receptacle is ceiling mounted.) Since the circuit is dedicated to the lift I'm not worried about someone plugging in a 30 amp load.

I also picked up 12' of SJOOW 10/3 to make up the power cord.

So yesterday the lift is delivered. It comes with about a 3" lead that the installer connected a jumper to just to test the function. Everything works fine. This morning I go to make up the power cord and find it won't fit through the fitting on the lift. Take a closer look and see the 3" lead is only SJOOW 14/3. On a 25 amp circuit? Can that be right?

So do I make up my power cord using 14/3 or get a new fitting that will fit the 10/3. I assume since the manufacturer used 14/3 that's all I need but why a 25 amp breaker?

That through me a for a loop on my Challenger lifts as well.

You need a 25 AMP breaker which means you need 10 Gauge all the way to the control box on the lift but then you're hooking your 10 Gauge wires to 14 gauge cording that runs to the bump bar switch on the top of the lift.

I used MC whips to come out of my ceiling boxes. I think this is probably easier than cording.

View media item 67279
Whoops! Took pic with phone in vertical position.

 

[sberry]

I assume since the manufacturer used 14/3 that's all I need but why a 25 amp breaker?

It probably pulls 50A,,, maybe more on starts. The motor is protected either with additional thermal (Mohawk doesn't) or by applied load. The duty cycle is short here. The 14 doesn't hurt, it actually acts as a choke during starts to some extent, probably minor at this length but helps to slow inrush a little.
Putting a larger wire than is needed doesn't always help these type of circuits. Small comps and chop saws trip 20 all the time so the instinct is to move it closer to the panel and increase the wire, problem is worse. I have 75 ft of 14 I use on my roofing comp. I use it instead of 25/16 is I was standing next to it but if something would run unattended which has happened I want a legal wire feeding it. It could run continuous on the 14.