That looks really nice.
Enclosed car trailer winch install ideas wanted
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
That'll work.
AldeanFan
Well-known member
Looks really good!
Moss
Well-known member
Looks really good!
Battery/battery box is next. And hoping for a sale on the winch and Bracket
I bought an isolator to let it charge off the tow vehicle. Then two small solar panels to let it keep the battery up while it isn't attached. One guy showed me his set up with the solar panel and it had a lead to trickle charge a vehicle battery. Once you see what others have done you find a lot of things you would like to do. My favorite is my loading lights.
Are the solar panels permanently attached to the roof? If so, how did you go about that and how did you wrote your wire down?
I haven't done it yet. That is one of the many things I haven't done yet but bought the parts to do. Another that I thought was a great idea is a hitch light. A friend of mine drives a truck and trailer setup for an NHRA team. They sit around with a lot of dead time so they do neat things to the trailers. He has a light mounted on the front of the enclosed trailer that they use to transport their engines to the builder. It is a 4or 5 LED 12v light that runs off the battery in the trailer aimed down at the front hitch. He has it on a key fob so he can turn it on while backing up the truck or motorhome to the trailer. That gives you light while hooking up or disconnecting. Another is two of those LED lights setup to come on with the reverse lights when the headlights are on.
AldeanFan
Well-known member
LED lights are a great addition to any trailer.
I’ve added rear facing and side lights that turn on with switches on a panel above the door inside the trailer.
Everything runs off a car battery that is charged from the tow vehicle or a small solar panel on the roof of the trailer, or with a small battery charger when the trailer is plugged into my generator.
I’ve added rear facing and side lights that turn on with switches on a panel above the door inside the trailer.
Everything runs off a car battery that is charged from the tow vehicle or a small solar panel on the roof of the trailer, or with a small battery charger when the trailer is plugged into my generator.
As I said in a previous post that is just temporary. All the nuts are going to get welded to the plate so I do not have to go under the trailer to install the winch plate.Dump the double nuts, shorten the bolts and use some nylock nuts. It's 2023, afterall
I missed that. Good idea!
What did you use for 12V switches? It would be nice to match the switches I have.
AldeanFan
Well-known member
I just made a simple switch panel from aluminum and used switches from Princess Auto.
I’ll grab a pic later.
P51Mustang
Well-known member
When I redid the inside of my trailer I did flush mounted outlet and switch boxes for the 110 volt that I added. At the same time for things like inside and outside 12 volt lights, I used a standard house outlet box blank cover that I drilled holes into for the switches. This gave me a nice flush mounted 12 volt switch panel for very little cost (less than a dollar for the blank plastic cover). The switches are basic 12 volt switches that I picked up at a local parts store or maybe at a swap meet.
Do you have any pictures of your flushmounted outlets? The walls on these trailers aren’t very thick I’m not even sure a receptacle without wires would actually fit in the wall thickness?
P51Mustang
Well-known member
Everything is put away for the winter right now but I will see if I can get out to it and get some shots. My trailer is a basic 24' Haulmark that I got used. It came from the factory with 3/8" plywood on the side walls and an open ceiling. There is about 1" of space between the back side of the plywood and outside trailer skin and you could get into to this wall space from the top where the wall panels ended and the open ceiling started. The guy that had it before me had put in a couple of surface mounted 110 volt outlets that I was always running in to when loading and unloading and added a roof mounted RV A/C unit. The A/C had a hard time keeping the inside anywhere close to cool on a hot, sunny day at the track so when I did some upgrades to allow me to haul a golf cart in front of the car and have storage for tools, parts and extra tires, I insulated the ceiling and added white ceiling panels (ended up with about R11). Before I closed in the ceiling, I ran the wire for outlets (I have three per side and a couple at the front) and the new 110 volt ceiling lights. I dropped the wire down into the side walls and then used 1" deep outlet boxes sunk into the wall for the outlets and switches (they fit great). There is a deeper junction box that is mounted into the ceiling for each drop. I added a two breaker, breaker box and wired it so that the A/C is on its own breaker and the outlets and lights are their own breaker. The trailer had one 12 volt light in it and I added a couple of others that are mounted into the new ceiling. So far it as all worked well. I can keep the trailer at around 75° when it is 95° plus and sunny outside. I can plug into a land line for power or fire up my generator as needed. I do have a 12 volt battery on board for the 12 volt lights and the winch and there is an onboard battery charger that is keeping the battery charged up anytime the trailer is hooked up to power. There was not that much for solar when I did all of this but I have been thinking about adding some solar onto the trailer.
P51Mustang
Well-known member
OK, I found some in progress photos I took when I did the ceiling and wiring upgrades. They are not the best but I hope that you can get the idea. Looks like I did not take any photos of the outlets before I had them installed. I should have put a fresh coat of paint on the side walls but I was short on time getting ready to make an event. My plan was to paint it later (that is still the plan someday).
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iagsxr
Well-known member
I'd gusset the sides of the underfloor brackets and weld them to the crossmember. That upper mount has a lot of leverage.
You're going to have to hook to the front dif or farther back on the one and crossmember on the other. In a 20' trailer the front bumper's going to be right up to the winch. You what it pulling forward not down.
You're going to have to hook to the front dif or farther back on the one and crossmember on the other. In a 20' trailer the front bumper's going to be right up to the winch. You what it pulling forward not down.
Both of my blazers are just about 15 feet long. The trailer is 20 feet long not including the V at the front. Depending on how the tongue weight ends up, I may have to have the Blazers further back than closer to the front. I may even end up pulling them in backwards? When I weld the nuts to the bottom of that plate, I do plan on tacking those angle plates to that crossmember in a few spots.
I’m not so sure I will need to gusset that plate. A couple of people have just used plates under the plywood and one person posted. They just used unit strut. I’m pretty sure that angle bracket bolted and welded to that crossmember should be plenty. I do plan on keeping a close eye on everything the first few times I load with it. It will probably be a month or two before I used that winch to pull a vehicle into the trailer. I will update how everything goes when I do. The first load or two will be furniture and clothing, etc.
iagsxr
Well-known member
I missed what you're using for a tow vehicle if it's mentioned in this thread. The three enclosed trailers I have had all towed the best with the most tongue weight I could get.
If you do put the complete Blazer in backwards I'd take do a test drive before you take off long distance.
If you do put the complete Blazer in backwards I'd take do a test drive before you take off long distance.
I have always try to get the 10% total weight for the tongue weight. I have a scale to check that but I agree I would do a test drive before driving 1300 miles.
2012 Silverado with a 9400 pound tow rating. Blazer and trailer should be about 7000-7500 total weight. I do have a real nice weight distributing hitch also. I do have a brand new Ford F250 on order, but I have not even gotten confirmation from Ford that it will be built.
my first couple of trips will be with furniture, clothing, tools, and should be well under what the Blazer weighs. I figure I’ll get to know the trailer and how the truck handles towing before I take the Blazers.
P51Mustang
Well-known member
I am surprised that your Blazers are that light to keep your total loaded trailer weigh in the 7000-7500 lb range . My big Broncos have a factory weight a little bit more than 4600 lbs. My 24 foot trailer with a steel frame and aluminum skin has an empty weight of just under 3900 lbs. It does sound like the Blazers are pretty close to the same size of the Broncos (just under 15.5 feet long for the Broncos). It is hard to believe that a big, wide Bronco has a shorter wheelbase at 105 inches than a 65 Mustang at 108 inches.
my trailer is only 20 feet. It is probably a cheaper brand than yours. The manufacturer stated that the weight of the trailer was 3200 pounds. Now Ad the etrack and a few other things let’s round that up to 3500 pounds the rounded up Blazer to 4000 pounds I’m still gonna be between 7500 pounds of 8000 which is a good amount below my tow capacity. Would I like a little bit more room for error? Yes I would but my orderEd truck is not even guaranteed to be built. As I mentioned earlier, the first couple trips will be with clothing and tools, etc.. It should be much lighter than the blazer. If I have difficulties with those couple of loads, I will reconsider my options.
I did a quick Internet search and this is what I found, to be on the safe side I’m rounding it up to 4000 pounds the wheelbase on the 1972 Blazer‘s is 104 inches. And neither of my blazers have the fiberglass top, which is about 300 pounds by itself.
Some have heavy bumpers and axles. Others are full of survival gear. Spec sheets show blazers weighing from low of 3,677lbs in 1971 and 1972 to a high of 4,778 in 1989.
I did a quick Internet search and this is what I found, to be on the safe side I’m rounding it up to 4000 pounds the wheelbase on the 1972 Blazer‘s is 104 inches. And neither of my blazers have the fiberglass top, which is about 300 pounds by itself.
Some have heavy bumpers and axles. Others are full of survival gear. Spec sheets show blazers weighing from low of 3,677lbs in 1971 and 1972 to a high of 4,778 in 1989.
| Engine Location : | Front |
| Drive Type : | 4WD |
| Production Years for Series : | 1968 - 1972 |
| Price : | $2,700-$3,258 |
| Weight : | 3790 lbs | 1719.115 kg |
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iagsxr
Well-known member
My current trailer is a 20' United XLT. It's right at 3200lbs. empty. That has to be about the same for your trailer.
What do you have for axles? 3500lb axles total trailer/cargo weight figuring 10% tongue is 7700lbs. I know guys who have way overloaded 3500lb. axles without issue but I wouldn't be putting anything else in the trailer with a Blazer.
What do you have for axles? 3500lb axles total trailer/cargo weight figuring 10% tongue is 7700lbs. I know guys who have way overloaded 3500lb. axles without issue but I wouldn't be putting anything else in the trailer with a Blazer.
P51Mustang
Well-known member
I am surprised to see that a truck based on a full size pick up could come in as low as 3700 lbs. Could that be for a 2 wheel drive Blazer (I do not know if 2 wheel drive was even available on the Blazer)? Ford never made a Bronco in 2 wheel drive (even the little Broncos first produced back in 1966 were 4 wheel drive) so you always have the weight of the front axle and transfer case on a Bronco.
Good that you have 5,000 lb axles on your new trailer. I know of at least a couple of people who have had issues burning up hubs on over loaded 3,500 lb axles on a 7,000 GVW trailer (plus tire issues). I my opinion, as it almost impossible to keep a larger (say 20' up) steel frame and aluminum skin enclosed trailer under 7,000 lb total weight if a car/truck of any size is loaded into them. Manufacturers should not even sell a 7,000 GVW trailer (I know it is to make a cost point).
Good that you have 5,000 lb axles on your new trailer. I know of at least a couple of people who have had issues burning up hubs on over loaded 3,500 lb axles on a 7,000 GVW trailer (plus tire issues). I my opinion, as it almost impossible to keep a larger (say 20' up) steel frame and aluminum skin enclosed trailer under 7,000 lb total weight if a car/truck of any size is loaded into them. Manufacturers should not even sell a 7,000 GVW trailer (I know it is to make a cost point).
it is funny the trailer manufacturer tried to talk me into the 7000 pound axles. I asked him why because they are all listed as 9990 pounds to avoid CDL issues. That’s why I decided to go with the 5000 pound axles and I will never be loaded to full capacity.
They did make 2 Wheel Dr. blazers I have one of each. Earlier in this thread, I posted pictures with the LS3 engine and Wilwood brakes on the front of my 2 Wheel Dr. blazer. You can see it is not a four-wheel-drive front axle. If you look above where I listed the weights on the chart, it says four-wheel-drive with the weight of 3790 pounds. About 300 pounds of that is the fiberglass roof which will not be on either of those. The four-wheel-drive has a soft top which I doubt is 100 pounds so in actuality, it’s probably 200 pounds less than the stated weight. And the 2 Wheel Dr. will never have any kind of top at all, and will be a full-time roadster.
here is a picture from the owners manual with the towing capacity. My Silverado is a four-wheel-drive 1500 extended cab standard box with heavy duty cooling and 3.42 gearing.
it shows a tow rating of 9600 pounds. 80% of 9600 is 7680 what should be pretty close to what the trailer and Blazer will weigh and most likely a couple hundred pounds under. But then there’s going to be myself and some gear in the truck.
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6t8stang
Member
Looks great! Did you fabricate or purchase the receiver plate and underneath angled steel? If purchased, from where?This is what I have come up with.
and this is what I did under the floor.
I will eventually weld the nuts to the bottom plate under the trailer. That way I can install the top plate and remove it without ever having to get back under the trailer.
I Purchased the quarter inch 12” x 12” plate from a local steel supplier, Turner steel. The angle brackets underneath I had to have a fabricator make for me and it was more than I thought it should be. The receiver tube was a 12 inch tube I purchased and cut 5 inches off the end and welded them together And then welded them to the plate.
AldeanFan
Well-known member
Here’s a pic of my switch panel,
I need to find some more labels and pickup more switch covers so they all match.
The volt gauge is activated by the black momentary button switch so I can check my battery voltage anytime.
I added a radiator fan from a Honda in the roof vent to exhaust hot air and fumes, it makes a huge difference.
I’ve got the two led spot lights on the back and similar ones on the sides, they’re great for loading and parking at night and also as work lights.
I need to find some more labels and pickup more switch covers so they all match.
The volt gauge is activated by the black momentary button switch so I can check my battery voltage anytime.
I added a radiator fan from a Honda in the roof vent to exhaust hot air and fumes, it makes a huge difference.
I’ve got the two led spot lights on the back and similar ones on the sides, they’re great for loading and parking at night and also as work lights.
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Check any big box store for shallow depth boxes. I think they were originally designed for mobile home trailers.
I’m a retired 40 year commercial and industrial electrician. Those boxes may fit and it may work but there’s no way a box that shallow is legal. That’s why I was asking just wondering if you found something with a little more room in it?
A 3x2x1.5" box has a volume of 7.5 cubic inches, and you need 10 or 12 for 14/2, depending upon cable clamping.
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P51Mustang
Well-known member
When not legal I assume that you mean that the box does not meet code. We are talking a car trailer, which may not have any code for wiring. I know that there is a code just for RV's which maybe would cover car trailers (I have not read it so I will only claim is there is one, NFPA 1192). I am not electrician or a code expert but I am not sure that I would agree that these shallow boxes would not meet code anyway as they are available everywhere. If they were not code compliant, I would think that they could not be sold. Having said this I do agree that you would have to be very careful on how a shallow box is used. I would only put a single 14/2 cable that is coming from a junction box and a standard size switch or outlet in the box, so nothing big like a GFCI or a big twist lock outlet. No clamps or wire nuts. These are the shallow boxes that I used in my car trailer for the wall outlets (https://www.menards.com/main/electr...-00c1-44ff-9e53-c7d88f423e52&ipos=1&exp=false). They have been in the trailer for several years now without issue (they are 1.25" deep).
I agree the NEC probably doesn’t cover cargo trailers or mobile homes. I have worked in a few mobile homes and the installed electrical leaves a lot to be desired.
A one and a half inch deep box has a cubic inch capacity of only 7.5 cubic inches. A one and 1/4 inch box would have even less. With a single 14/2 romex you need a minimum of 10 cubic inches if you use a connector and 12 cubic inches if you use the clamp that came with the box. As I said, I’m sure it could work and as you said yours has been working for years. Being a 40 year licensed electrician with lots of pride in my work I just couldn’t do it but I am glad it’s working out for you.
I guess if I had to have 120 V power in my trailer, I would install it at the very front and use one of those shallow boxes and add an extension box on top.
I finished up the Winch mount today. I still need to purchase the winch, the bracket It will mount to and the battery box with battery. The battery box arrives tomorrow.
Here are all the nuts welded to the plate on the bottom, so I never have to crawl under the trailer to tighten the nuts or have someone on top holding the bolts while I tighten nylock nuts on which I’m not a fan of anyway. Nylock nuts have their place but I don’t believe this is it!
i’m not real good at welding upside down, but it will hold! I then repainted the plate where I had to grind off so I can weld (Looks like I missed a spot). I Purchased some stainless steel flathead bolts to put in the floor when I am not using the winch so it is flat, and there is no obstruction. I will coat the stainless steel bolts, so there is no chance of seizing.
Here are all the nuts welded to the plate on the bottom, so I never have to crawl under the trailer to tighten the nuts or have someone on top holding the bolts while I tighten nylock nuts on which I’m not a fan of anyway. Nylock nuts have their place but I don’t believe this is it!
i’m not real good at welding upside down, but it will hold! I then repainted the plate where I had to grind off so I can weld (Looks like I missed a spot). I Purchased some stainless steel flathead bolts to put in the floor when I am not using the winch so it is flat, and there is no obstruction. I will coat the stainless steel bolts, so there is no chance of seizing.
AldeanFan
Well-known member
Looks great,
Now is the time to paint the floor before it gets dirty.
Now is the time to paint the floor before it gets dirty.
I would like to paint the floor but I don’t want it to end up slippery. Any suggestions?
P51Mustang
Well-known member
I have seen people paint it with gray porch/floor paint. You can get the paint with grit in it or you can just buy grit to put in whatever paint you want to use.