Enclosed trailer upgrades and modifications

[unslow1]

I used Rustoleum Epoxy shield on both of mine. It isn't slick when wet and oil wipes off. I went with it because the vinyl and coin floors were too slick when wet in previous trailers. One car garage kit was about perfect for each 24ft trailer with cabinets. Obviously vent well, tape off the wheelwells and edges prior and if you want the flakes you will have to do them as you go.

Sorry no pics to link. Mine looks basically like Wake74. My stuff was on Photobucket and my attempts to set up a couple of others failed miserably. That is something I probably should set up on these winter days.

I guess the links in my post on page one still work.

 

[wake74]

Sorry no pics to link. Mine looks basically like Wake74. My stuff was on Photobucket and my attempts to set up a couple of others failed miserably. That is something I probably should set up on these winter days.

You are correct, I used the basic HD Rustoleum garage floor coating including clear coat. I'm not sure its the perfect solution due to floor flex, but it will outlive me using it a 1/2 dozen times a year. So far I haven't seen any signs of cracking. It was cheap, and 100 times nicer than just the raw plywood to keep clean.

I did use a **** ton of grit in the drop down door to make sure that if it was raining outside I could drive / walk up the ramp without slipping. Of course 99% of the time I winch the car into the trailer, as it's getting harder and harder to Dukes of Hazard out the window.

I also didn't use any flake on the ramp door just because I didn't want to see the flakes on the "wall" when the trailer was in camper mode.

 

[mustangmccance]

What floor epoxy did you guys use and how slippery is it when wet? My current trailer has black/white vinyl floor and it's a skating rink. Picking up a new ATC 22 foot enclosed in a week, want something for the floor that you don't take your life in your hands when it's wet... Going to E-track the full length on the floor and a couple of pieces in the nose to hold the spare tires, tent, etc. Also looking at maybe doing ceiling cabinets in the front, shoreline and adding LED lights to the ceiling as well.

I ordered rustoleum rock solid. I haven’t got it yet though so I obviously have no idea how well it works but from what I’ve read it should work well

 

[Falcon67]

What do they typically insulate these with? I have a older 24' that I am thinking of insulating. Was looking at the rigid insulation panels at the home centers.

Same - I used 1" pink cut to fit foam in our old 24'. With a white trailer, didn't think the reflective foam would have made any difference.

 

[bob15]

A few add-ons I did for my snowmobile trailer.

The white PVC pipe-bomb looking item is to put & keep the trailer registration in. Two of the boxes were empty boxes on the side-walls I found (one for parts and one for cooking stuff....spices, salt/pepper, tin foil) and the First Aid box is really a first aid box with bandages, gauze pads, tape, scissors, tweezers, Tylenol, etc. The one box is full of tools needed for basic snowmobile or trailer repair or even a carb rebuild. I made the helmet holder out of PVC and painted it black. The aluminum pieces in the back were purchased from TuffPaw http://www.tuffpaw.com/

 

[wake74]

Same - I used 1" pink cut to fit foam in our old 24'. With a white trailer, didn't think the reflective foam would have made any difference.

Ditto for me. I used 1" foam walls and ceilings. I also ended up insulating over the metal wheel wells, and putting some thin plywood over the insulation. I found that in a paved paddock in August the metal wheel wells were very warm.

 

[mustangmccance]

I got the battery box and solar charger all wired and installed and put down the floor epoxy. It is a little light in some areas. I might put a second coat on tonight. I am definitely going to put the clear coat on when I am satisfied

 

[unslow1]

That is nice having a garage that the trailer will go into. I have several things I would like to do but it was cool and rainy this weekend so I stayed inside.

 

[evildky]

subscribed

 

[Kmp259]

Thought you'd like these of packed up ready to go to Road America

 

[AldeanFan]

You win!


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[AldeanFan]

I’m working on my trailer right now,


I painted the walls and floor,
Added a battery, winch and led lights.


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[Spencer Was Here]

I got the battery box and solar charger all wired and installed and put down the floor epoxy. It is a little light in some areas. I might put a second coat on tonight. I am definitely going to put the clear coat on when I am satisfied

Wow, you are not wasting any time. I look forward to seeing your next upgrades.

 

[norcalpablo]

Many of you have amazing setups. I assume some have installed alarms? I have a 20' cargo trailer and an upcoming project where I'd like to have some additional security. I'll be making two cross-county trips with a load of tools, staying in hotels. I'll add physical barriers, but an alarm would be nice too.

I'd like to buy a quality car alarm and install pin switches on both trailer doors, maybe a couple of strobes, possibly a horn. I'll provide a dedicated battery. I'd really like some remote notification, either a "pager" with good range, or potentially via cell. I'm mostly trying to protect the contents in hotel parking lots. This is a one-time project, to be used this spring/summer, then I'll probably sell the trailer.

Can I get a good but basic alarm with reliable remote notification for <$200? Obviously remote start, etc., is of no added value. Recommendations please?

Thanks!

 

[gearhead1]

38' Continental 5th wheel, it has a kitchen, bath and bunk.



I added 400w of solar and an inverter, which is really nice for dry camping. We only fire the generator for the microwave or occasional use of AC basically.





The tongue was really dark so I added some lighting for both side and the propane/battery compartment. It's on different switches so I can select where I'm throwing the light if we do camp at park.




The generator compartment was bare bones and I didn't want to struggle to service it. I built a slide that doubles as an air gap under the generator.




We've since sold that generator and stepped down to a 4kW which fits a little better.

What drawer slides did you use? Do you remember what weight they were rated for?

 

[bggrnchvy]

What drawer slides did you use? Do you remember what weight they were rated for?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KIG4M22/?tag=atomicindus08-20

500lbs at full extension.

 

[tfalk]

After spending a week looking at this and over-thinking it, I bought the Rustoleum rocksolid kit. Picking the trailer up monday, hopefully get the inside painted tuesday and wednesday. @mustangmccance, I was toying with doing the same thing like you, adding the box and battery on the tongue. I'm thinking now instead that I want the battery inside the trailer instead... Those boxes look like they are pretty easy to break the lid lock with a crowbar, I think it might be safer to keep everything inside? Then again, it's probably not that hard to break the lock on the trailer door either.

Bought the trailer, then another car just happened to pop into my lap so looks like the new trailer will be storing another car for a while lol... what's that old saying about stuff expanding to fill the available space?

 

[mustangmccance]

The rock solid epoxy looks pretty good I think. I did put a second coat on and the clear coat on top of that. Plenty of the anti skid spread liberally so it’s not slick.
The winch is mounted. And I have started framing my bench

 

[mustangmccance]

the floor really seemed to soak up the first coat of epoxy. when it dried it left some areas that weren't covered well enough to suit me.

so I put a second coat on, and then a clear coat on top of that.

it seems pretty tough. it is not slick. I put a quite a bit of anti skid in as I went along also. I like the way it looks. it looks clean, and it will resist anything I happen to spill on it.

then I anchored my winch. it is a warn 8,000 pound winch, way overkill for this job, but since it is such a powerful winch I wanted it anchored firmly. so I mounted it to a yj winch plate, then I mounted the winch plate to the floor. the back two bolts go all the way through the frame square tubing, with a big washer on it. the front two just go through the floor, but I put a roll bar backing plate under each of them, so they are at least as strong as the D ring mounts. that winch is not going anywhere. then I ran the wiring through the floor. I ordered some special locking grommets to go through the box to the battery, but they aren't here yet so I haven't tested the winch yet.

I also got my quick disconnect jumper cables and mounted the permanent end to the battery. the jumper cable part came in a nice carrying bag that I will store in the battery box. it is 30 feet long so it will easily reach my truck battery if the winch battery should ever happen to be dead.

then I started framing in my work bench/ storage area.

the front is on and the doors are in place. I haven't screwed the side doors in yet. I still have to decide how I want to do the plug ins. but I did wire up a test plug and used it to cut the hole for the winch fairlead. the top is just sitting on there right now. I have to decide how I want to finish it, and I need to get some trim to finish things up a bit, but its coming along. its just a good thing I am better at mechanics than I am at carpenter work lol.

 

[unslow1]

I started with deep cycle batteries but didn't have much luck. After asking a few friends what they were using I switched to automotive batteries several years ago. They have held up much better for them and myself.

 

[bigdave_185]

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[tfalk]

then I started framing in my work bench/ storage area.

the front is on and the doors are in place. I haven't screwed the side doors in yet.

Where did you get the cabinet doors from?

Looks very similar to what I am thinking of doing on my new trailer. Painted the walls white primer, got the first coat of rocksolid on today, should finish the floor tomorrow. My luck, picked up the trailer on monday, came out tuesday morning and found a frackin nail in one tire... 160 miles and time for a new one... Grrr.....

 

[mustangmccance]

Where did you get the cabinet doors from?

Looks very similar to what I am thinking of doing on my new trailer. Painted the walls white primer, got the first coat of rocksolid on today, should finish the floor tomorrow. My luck, picked up the trailer on monday, came out tuesday morning and found a frackin nail in one tire... 160 miles and time for a new one... Grrr.....

I got the doors on EBAY.



I basically am done with the inside. I finished the work bench, I do still need to get the proper strength gas struts though. I hung 2 pieces of etrack and I have started filling it up. I still have two more pieces of etrack. but I am going to wait and use the trailer for a while to decide where they will be most useful. I will hopefully be able to get the new wheels on this week.

 

[mustangmccance]

I won’t be doing that. This is a car hauler and mobile shop for doing minor repairs when away from home I won’t be sleeping in here

 

[John in OH]

I've got a basic brown paper bag 7x14 tandem axle unit that I've used for moving furniture and light equipment. Haven't done much to it except add e-track to the walls and a lot of floor D-rings. Been thinking about a few improvements to make it usable for weekend camping trips ... sort of a tent-on-wheels!

The roof is a thin aluminum skin supported by 1" x 1-1/4" "square" steel tubing. Thinking about fitting 1" pink foam insulation in the roof between the tube ceiling joists. For those that may have already done this, did you install anything between the foam and the aluminum? What did you install as ceiling material below the foam?

The ceiling construction can be partially seen in several of the attached pics.

 

[mustangmccance]

I got the wheels and tires swapped and mounted the spare. I had a couple people say they were concerned about the tire holder. I have the e track mounted to the trailer screwed into the studs with inch and 1/2 self piercing screws there are 4 studs that its screwed into. the wall sheeting is too thin to hold screws however. should I be concerned? I used 2 of the etrack spare holders

 

[Spencer Was Here]

...
The roof is a thin aluminum skin supported by 1" x 1-1/4" "square" steel tubing. Thinking about fitting 1" pink foam insulation in the roof between the tube ceiling joists. For those that may have already done this, did you install anything between the foam and the aluminum? What did you install as ceiling material below the foam?

The ceiling construction can be partially seen in several of the attached pics.

I am in the process of doing this now. I have already installed one layer of 3/4" rigid foam on all my walls and in the ceiling.

I picked up some 3/8" beaded plywood to install on the ceiling and I'm painting it now. I'll be installing one more layer of rigid foam above that new 3/8" plywood.

 

[unslow1]

I got the wheels and tires swapped and mounted the spare. I had a couple people say they were concerned about the tire holder. I have the e track mounted to the trailer screwed into the studs with inch and 1/2 self piercing screws there are 4 studs that its screwed into. the wall sheeting is too thin to hold screws however. should I be concerned? I used 2 of the etrack spare holders

I know a couple of people that have mounted their spare like that but I've always been afraid it would fall so I've never done it on mine. Mine is in the lower cabinet at the front.

 

[AldeanFan]

I’m going to mount my spare under the trailer the same as on my airstream.
I figure weight lower is better abs outside is better than inside.


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[John in OH]

I am in the process of doing this now. I have already installed one layer of 3/4" rigid foam on all my walls and in the ceiling.

I picked up some 3/8" beaded plywood to install on the ceiling and I'm painting it now. I'll be installing one more layer of rigid foam above that new 3/8" plywood.

How are you attaching the foam to the ceiling?

Hope you can post some pics of the beaded plywood when you get it installed!!

 

[bigdave_185]

How are you attaching the foam to the ceiling?

Hope you can post some pics of the beaded plywood when you get it installed!!

If you trim the foam tight it will stay in the top rails, spray adhesive works, contractor glue works, I put the foam up and then screwed 1/2x2 inch pieces of plywood to the top rails to hold it in place and provide an air gap for my ceiling




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[unslow1]

I’m going to mount my spare under the trailer the same as on my airstream.
I figure weight lower is better abs outside is better than inside.


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I know one guy that mounted his spare in a box under the trailer. It was accessed through a trap door in the floor of the trailer. He said it seemed like a really good place until he had to unload the race car on the side of the highway at midnight to get to it. Now he doesn't store his spare there anymore. It is a useful place to keep the spare straps and misc. So I'd suggest making sure there is a way to access it without requiring unloading the trailer. I've even seen a few mounted on the front of the trailer up high. Theft is always a concern.

 

[AldeanFan]

The spare will mount under the trailer at the front and only be accessed from underneath,


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[AldeanFan]

What’s everyone doing when the mount a winch?
Just bolt to the floor?


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[mustangmccance]

Nice trailer

We ordered ours outfitted exactly as we wanted. None of that after a while stuff. If I add anything, it would be some E-track to the walls in places. Which I'd hate to do since it's nice carpet. Added some to the floor for various haling configurations (door car or dragster) We considered buying bare and outfitting - nah. It's 34' x 7.5, so not a small unit. Can live in it.

Bath package
Coin floor
Half wall carpet
Full insulation except floor
Air
Cabinets
Electrical outlets + house battery
External LED floods for track use

Only thing we didn't get and may add this year is a big electric awning.

Facon, how is your spare mounted?

 

[mustangmccance]

What’s everyone doing when the mount a winch?
Just bolt to the floor?


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I used a yj winch plate. I mounted the winch to the plate then I put it all in and drilled down through the floor. the back two holes go through the floor Joist? or beam, or whatever you call the square metal beams that the floor is mounted to, some 8 inch bolts go all the way through and then I have some big washers lock washer, and nut. the front I drilled down through the floor and put some of the backing plates I had leftover from mounting my rollbar into my bronco. they are 1/4 inch steel squares. about 6 inches square. a lot thicker than the backing plates they used to anchor the d-rings. I am pretty confident this is overkill, but I didn't want to take a chance.

 

[John in OH]

Has anyone fitted screen doors on the interior side of the side access door? Anyone have pics?

 

[unslow1]

What’s everyone doing when the mount a winch?
Just bolt to the floor?


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I had a winch plate welded on mine under the floor when I ordered it. That was a waste because it wasn't in a location I could use. Mine is set up to be removable and bolted through the floor and the frame under it with long bolts. A friend of mine set his up with the winch being able to get pulled out and used on a truck hitch. That seemed like a good idea and that's why I did mine.
I've even seen a couple of guys mount receiver hitches in their garage to pull a dead car in.

 

[tfalk]

He said it seemed like a really good place until he had to unload the race car on the side of the highway at midnight to get to it.

Also why you carry a trailer-buddy - I never heard about them until the first time I got a flat and had to unload the car because the floor jack I carried wouldn't pick up the trailer with the car in it...

I ended up like mustangmccance and using the rocksolid floor epoxy. I also used 1.5 containers of SlipDoctors Extra Grip Non-Skid Paint Additive that I spread using a hand seeder. Floor is pretty much the texture of 80 grit sandpaper LOL, doubt I will have to worry about slipping now.

3rd time I flipped down the tail board, it broke off... dumbasses apparently thought using sheet metal screws on OSB was a good idea... Bought a 4x8 of exterior plywood and a strip of metal, going to use bolts and sandwich the plywood between the strip and hinge. Also going to make it longer and add some re-enforcing so I can hopefully not scrape the noses of my Saleen Mustangs getting them in the trailer.

Added 20 feet of e-track on both sides. Place I bought the trailer said to just use lag bolts into the tubes but they did not feel that secure to me. Ended up buying 4.5 inch long bolts and bolted the e-tracks through the tubes. Ain't going nowhere LOL. Ran wiring to add backup lights and currently running wiring to add LED lights along the bottom of the walls next to where the tires will be so hopefully I can see what I am doing trying to tie down the car at night. Still haven't figured out what I am going to do with the front as far as cabinets or where to mount the 2 spare tire carriers.

And as my luck always runs true... nail in the tire the day after I got it home. Fortunately the tires came with a 1 year no-excuses warranty and they are going to send me a brand new one.

 

[unslow1]

Those low loading lights are great. I added those on a suggestion from someone. Instead of a trailer buddy I carry three 2x10s stacked and screwed together. They work well and I've had them for years. Unfortunately I've used them a few times.