Above 1200 Sq/FT Engineer's Multi-Purpose Shop

[Culture]

I run large CIP projects as a living and you'd never see anything like this on a project.

Did you see the CIP parking garage collapse last week in Irving? Amazing it was partially caught on film. My specialty was investigation and repair of damaged structures. I have seen quite a few CIP parking garage collapses.

 

[LXCam]

Did you see the CIP parking garage collapse last week in Irving? Amazing it was partially caught on film. My specialty was investigation and repair of damaged structures. I have seen quite a few CIP parking garage collapses.

No I had no idea.

 

[Culture]

No I had no idea.

They caught the second half of the failure. Starts at about 25 seconds into the video.

https://dfw.cbslocal.com/video/3911398-women-recall-being-inside-irving-parking-garage-as-it-started-collapsing/

One of my dislikes as a designer is the lack of redundancy in CIP.

 

[readhead]

It appears like the panels slipped off the seat. Heat expansion? Welds on the embeds failed? It will be interesting to hear what the outcome is.

 

[LXCam]

Looks like somebody didn't do their homework on the inbeds.

 

[Culture]

It appears like the panels slipped off the seat. Heat expansion? Welds on the embeds failed? It will be interesting to hear what the outcome is.

I have seen many precast failures related to the designer not accounting for thermal expansion. I would say this may be one of the more common failure modes.

Unfortunately, I find that the cause of failure is normally not made public unless the government gets involved in the investigation.

 

[Culture]

Looks like somebody didn't do their homework on the inbeds.

Embed design, thermal expansion, maintenance or welding are the most likely causes in my experience.

Some things you can be sure of:
1) The engineer will find it is a construction and/or maintenance issue.
2) The owner will find it is a design and/or construction issue.
3) The contractor will find it is a design and/or maintenance issue.

 

[readhead]

You have been to this rodeo before.

 

[Culture]

Because the "walls" were effectively 12" thick between the inside face of the framed wall and the outside face of the metal shell, I had to deal with the punched windows. I constructed insulated panels of 1" rigid foam sandwiched between 7/16" OSB. I used these panels to fill gap between the wood frame interior walls and the metal shell.

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[Culture]

I do not know how it works at your house, but here I have to keep the spouse happy in order to smooth the purchase of new tools and justify an awesome shop. Here is a projact that I finished while I was framing out the shop space. It is an outdoor kitchen consisting of a sink, big green egg, gas grill and gas burner. The gas grill and burner were taken from a cart grill that I owned.

The decision the build from wood is likely controversial, but the entire thing is wrapped in a least one layer of cement board (2 layer in areas where exposed to heat), and it is not directly exposed to rain. I used pressure treated lumber in the outermost section that might get some blown rain.

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[ChaseDE]

looks pretty freakin' nice to me, good job.

 

[Culture]

looks pretty freakin' nice to me, good job.

Thanks!

 

[readhead]

I've been told that there are engineers that have real manual skills. Here's proof.

LOL. I work with great engineers every day.

 

[bp460]

Thanks for sharing your project. That outdoor kitchen looks awesome!

-Brad

 

[Culture]

I've been told that there are engineers that have real manual skills. Here's proof.

LOL. I work with great engineers every day.

Thanks. I am constantly amazed by the percentage of Engineers who don't know which end of the hammer hits the nail, or how to change the oil in their car.

I will admit to being called onto the carpet a few times by contractors who asked me how they were supposed to build what I drew, and I had to admit it was impossible. I always feel as long as you're willing to learn from one of these situations, it's okay to make a mistake.

 

[Culture]

Thanks for sharing your project. That outdoor kitchen looks awesome!

-Brad

Thanks, I was quite happy with how it turned out.

 

[Culture]

I have even been happier with the Big Green Egg than with the outdoor kitchen overall. I got one on the advice of a friend and it is awesome. I rarely use that gas grill, now perhaps three or four times a year. They are ridiculously expensive, but if you can get past the price and convince yourself to buy one anyway I highly recommend it.

 

[Culture]

With the help of my lovely assistant I set 20'x16" deep I-Joist at 16" on center. This allows a storage load of 90 psf on the upper floor. The I-Joist weighted about 70 pounds apiece so they were more unwieldy than heavy.

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[LXCam]

Your BBQ center turned out incredible, nice job!

 

[Culture]

Your BBQ center turned out incredible, nice job!

Thanks, I appreciate that.

 

[OldSoldier]

Did you see the CIP parking garage collapse last week in Irving? Amazing it was partially caught on film. My specialty was investigation and repair of damaged structures. I have seen quite a few CIP parking garage collapses.

Do you actually see a lot of Cast-In-Place parking garage collapses or do you see a lot of Precast parking garage collapses or both? The one in Irving was obviously a precast garage, not cast in place.

Nice shop!

 

[Culture]

Do you actually see a lot of Cast-In-Place parking garage collapses or do you see a lot of Precast parking garage collapses or both? The one in Irving was obviously a precast garage, not cast in place.

Nice shop!

My bad, I mean precast, not CIP. Very few CIP parking garages around here in Texas. All the parking garage collapses I have ever seen were precast. I think my dyslexic brain was seeing PCI (Precast Concrete Institute) for CIP, same letters, not the same thing . Or, alternatively, I am getting senile.

 

[Culture]

All I-Joist in place. The size of the second level is now apparent. The wall height at the outer edge is 4'. I considered a higher eave height to give myself more room at the outer edge, but decided against it. I think I made the right decision here, as the space works very well for storage, as will be seen when I get it decked and the shelves in. I left it about 40% shelving, 60% open space.

At this point I had not framed the area at the overhead door as I had started to reconsider what I was going to do here. I realized I was never going to be able to air seal the door, and I was not going to be bringing cars into the air conditioned work shop. I decided to hold off on this area and think about it.

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[Culture]

While I thought about what to do at the overhead door, I constructed the stairs to the second level and the dividing wall between the office (20x20) and shop (20x30). The dividing wall was constructed as a shear wall. Yes, I did block all the panel joints at the shear walls.

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[Xti04]

Looks amazing!

 

[lis2323]

looks pretty freakin' nice to me, good job.

I’ll second that!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[hemiallen]

Looks good.

I am still waiting on final plans to take to our county inspectors to get approval to start.

I went 20' eves and 14' doors for my trailers, and hope to do a similar upstairs on the 50' width, should get 5'-8" or more at the walls. How tall are your glue lams and spacing- length of unsupported area?

Thanks

 

[Culture]

Looks good.

I am still waiting on final plans to take to our county inspectors to get approval to start.

I went 20' eves and 14' doors for my trailers, and hope to do a similar upstairs on the 50' width, should get 5'-8" or more at the walls. How tall are your glue lams and spacing- length of unsupported area?

Thanks

16" deep i-joist at 16 inches on center, 19' span. 90 psf design live load. I also put in a 14' door, but with 16' eaves.

 

[Culture]

I’ll second that!!

Thanks!

 

[Culture]

Looks amazing!

Thanks!

 

[Culture]

When the metal shell was purchased, I envisioned a 10x10 insulated overhead door as the main shop entry in order that vehicles could be moved into the air conditioned shop space. However, as I modified the plans durign construction I realized that 1) I was not going to have enough free space to park a car or truck in the AC shop and 2) The insulated overhead door was never going to be even close to airtight. Therefore, I made to decision to remove the overhead door and replace it with a double man door. This was the largest mistake I made constructing my building, both in time and money. I removed the OHD and framed a wall across the opening. I recouped some $$$ by selling the door.

The double door is not centered in the original OHD opening because it is centered in the bay instead. I have no idea why the OHD was not centered in the bay.

Door framing (exterior):
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Door framing (interior):
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Door framing (exterior):
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Removed door:
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Finished replacement door:
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Finished replacement door:
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[Culture]

As I mentioned earlier, the builder of my house blocked all drainage from the rear of the property when he constructed the driveway to the house. This caused massive ponding at the driveway to the shop. I had to constructed a drainage system to prevent flooding of the yard and shop driveway. When the shop driveway was constructed I had the builder leave a cut through the driveway, and I installed a flume from this cut along the driveway to the front of the property (see photo). I did not construct a earthen drainage swale because I did not have enough width to put in a 12" deep swale (maximum required depth) between the edge of the driveway and property line without the sides being too steep. I built a wood lined flume instead. I used wood treated for brackish water exposure and SS fasteners so it should last 25 years at least.

I also installed a sump pump which discharged in the front yard past the high point of the driveway. I installed a backflow valve and an anti-siphon loop because I did not want the pump to run non-stop if one failed while I was out of town for a week. I purchased an industrial Tsurami pump with a float valve and have been really impressed. The nicest thing about this pump is all the seals can be replaced.

Since the system was installed, I get temporary ponding while it is raining, but it drains within a couple of hours after the rain stops. We loose power all the time so we have an automatic standby generator if the power fails.

The flume alone will drain everything by gravity except for a small amount of residual water that gets caught behind the culvert.

Typical flooding:
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Sump pump with anti-leaf intake screen:
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Sump Pump details:
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Drainage flume:
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Driveway "culvert"
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[Culture]

The biggest problem with the flume is it fills with leaves, but on the other had it is easier to clean out than a 100' lone pipe would be to clean out.

 

[readhead]

Elegant solution. I like it.

 

[Culture]

My lot is about 1.8 acres. About 1.3 acres drains to the front, the rest drains to the rear. The builder block the drainage from about 0.5-0.7 acres . When I ask him to address it, he claimed it was my problem. I certainly agree that site drainage is not the builder's problem in general, it is his problem when he creates it. I was not happy, as this took me about $2000-$2500 and several weeks of work to fix. I had to install the flume, run underground power to the sump, bury the sump discharge line, etc. It was a lot of digging, which I did by hand because I am an idiot and it is good exercise.

He did a very nice job on the house itself, but his knowledge of site work was very low.

 

[Culture]

Miscellaneous work finishing up the framing so that the electrical go be installed.

Doors installed at interior wall (office entry):
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Hold-downs at shear walls:
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Panel blocking at shear walls:
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Blocking for drywall:
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Foaming all gaps:
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[dirtrunner0519]

Do you have any more photos of the window install? I need to do something similar not sure how to go about it.

 

[Culture]

Do you have any more photos of the window install? I need to do something similar not sure how to go about it.

Unfortunately I do not. What I did was frame the windows opening about 2.5" larger than the windows. I then made 2" thick insulated panels out of two layers of OSB and 1" foam panels. I then shimmed the window opening so that the panels were at the right elevation. It was very time consuming to get them exactly right. Every panel was custom cut and custom shimmed (no two were exactly the same).

 

[Culture]

Next step was wiring. Based on past experience I realized it is impossible to have to many outlets/circuits. I installed 120v and 240v outlets on all walls and ceilings, including many dedicated circuits for AC, arc welder, dust collector, HEPA filter, air compressor and RV shore power, etc. I installed both base and midwall outlets. When in doubt, I put in an outlet.

Several dedicated circuits (including air compressor and dust collector) were installed with dual voltage outlets (120/240). This requires running a three wire cable (black, red, white and ground).

These photos were taken right before the insulation was blown in the walls.

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[Culture]

With the framing done, electrical done and all gaps air-sealed, I hired someone to insulate the walls. I used the blown-in-blanket system, where a net is installed over the interior face and Fiberglas insulation is blown into the gap. This results in insulation that is tightly packed without voids. Much better than batt insulation.

Installed cost of insulation was $829, which was about the same as it would have cost me to purchase and install batt insulation.

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