Epoxy-Coat my Winter Application

[fuzzymoto]

How long ago was your floor done? I have a feeling this sort of problem is why they moved away from clear coats. If you read the info they have at Epoxy-coat.com, it all recommends NO clear coat and they don't even sell a clear coat so at some point this must have changed. I would assume they have or had local contractors doing the work? What part of the country are you in? Good info..thanks for adding it.

 

[impalanut]

I am in Florida. They sent people down from Michigan rather than use local labor. It would be easier if I had someone to contact locally. Hopefully, I can get them to at least repair the areas that need it.

 

[thegarageguy]

I think your issue for the top coat not bonding might be a problem I ran into a couple of times. High humidity caused my poly to not bond and it peeled off like window tinting. Later I found out that its a regular problem when installing during high humidity. The solution is to chemical wipe the whole floor with xylene before coating with poly. Needless to say, I havent had this problem happen again. Being that your in Fl, it might be your problem also. Just guessing. btw, poly isnt nessessary but it helps with shine, ultra violet protection and has a better scratch resistance. When I do commercial spaces like factories or warehouses, its not needed. But it looks great on a showroom or garage floor.

 

[69lkmno]

I've had Epoxy Coat for over 2 years now and it's still holding up pretty well. Like Fuzzy did, I didn't have to seal it.

 

[fuzzymoto]

I am in Florida. They sent people down from Michigan rather than use local labor. It would be easier if I had someone to contact locally. Hopefully, I can get them to at least repair the areas that need it.

Hopefully they do. How long ago did you originally apply the floor?

 

[fuzzymoto]

I've had Epoxy Coat for over 2 years now and it's still holding up pretty well. Like Fuzzy did, I didn't have to seal it.

Glad to hear it. I'm still a few weeks from having the cars parked on mine....so for now I'm just enjoying it being new and clean....I know that probably won't last long.

 

[gregs]

I have noticed when using epoxy products like "5 minute epoxy glue" and some other epoxy filler products, that after it cures it leaves a oily film on the surface. Does anybody know what that is? And could possibly a flooring product do that which would cause a binding problem with another top coat?

 

[fuzzymoto]

I have noticed when using epoxy products like "5 minute epoxy glue" and some other epoxy filler products, that after it cures it leaves a oily film on the surface. Does anybody know what that is? And could possibly a flooring product do that which would cause a binding problem with another top coat?

No really sure if I've seen that. I can tell you the flooring has no such oily coat on top. It dries clean/dry and hard like glass.

 

[fuzzymoto]

Why are you waiting weeks?

Sorry I've been away from the thread...
I'm actually waiting weeks because of some painting projects I have going on in the garage. Since we're painting the dormer above the cars I dont want to have to worry about dripping on the cars or juggling the ladders around the cars.

 

[Fuller]

I have noticed when using epoxy products like "5 minute epoxy glue" and some other epoxy filler products, that after it cures it leaves a oily film on the surface. Does anybody know what that is? And could possibly a flooring product do that which would cause a binding problem with another top coat?

It could be what's known as an "amine blush" I've used a primer occasionally that cures with kind of a greasy feel to it that needs to be removed. This particular product can be applied to a wet floor and cures fine. I think when the film thickness gets over the limit is when I start having problems.

As for Wolverine, it's a fine line between being helpful and being self-serving. Some folks will see it one way and others might disagree. Did he give good advice? Yes. I would never do a chip floor without a clear coat. They do tend to absorb dirt and liquids. In some systems the base coat will saturate the chip and minimize the issue, especially if they are pepper flake size.

 

[fuzzymoto]

It could be what's known as an "amine blush" I've used a primer occasionally that cures with kind of a greasy feel to it that needs to be removed. This particular product can be applied to a wet floor and cures fine. I think when the film thickness gets over the limit is when I start having problems.

As for Wolverine, it's a fine line between being helpful and being self-serving. Some folks will see it one way and others might disagree. Did he give good advice? Yes. I would never do a chip floor without a clear coat. They do tend to absorb dirt and liquids. In some systems the base coat will saturate the chip and minimize the issue, especially if they are pepper flake size.

Everyone can read whatever they want into the thread. I think a line was certainly crossed in my thread and some others I've read. I don't agree with the advice given or some of the opinions on no clear coat, in fact I consider it an advantage to not have a clear coat.

Time will tell and as I've said I'll report back what happens next....godd or bad.

 

[thegarageguy]

Time will tell and as I've said I'll report back what happens next....godd or bad.

I'd like to see pics with a dated newspaper for proof!

 

[mikerosi]

Hey fuzzy, when you mixed part A and B in the bucket, did you use a clean bucket for the next mix or did use clean that same bucket with a spatula or something? I guess idealy you would want to use a new bucket evertime for a new mix. Did you use 6 different buckets and how many rollers did it take? Thanks Mike

 

[fuzzymoto]

I'd like to see pics with a dated newspaper for proof!

Will the NYTimes be OK?

I kid....but I will follow up no matter what. I'll be parking on it when I return from the left coast....(where I am as we type)

 

[fuzzymoto]

Hey fuzzy, when you mixed part A and B in the bucket, did you use a clean bucket for the next mix or did use clean that same bucket with a spatula or something? I guess idealy you would want to use a new bucket evertime for a new mix. Did you use 6 different buckets and how many rollers did it take? Thanks Mike

No for me I worked quickly enough (as as I said mine didn't dry very quickly) so it was one bucket to mix all Part A in and one bucket to do the Part A Part B mixes. I did have the wife holding the PartA-PartB mix upside down while I applied the mix...this got much of the mix on the floor so there wasn't much in the bucket. I'd say the spatula idea won't work...too sticky. I ended up using one roller, but if I had another section to do, I would have started a new one. I did use 2 cut-in brushes.

 

[peetsjunkie]

I'm about ready to throw down some $$ for a new flooring as well. Epoxy-coat looks good but the idea of not sealing these 'chips' has been worrying me. I put down the Behr 'Cr@p' special and it's lifting everwhere. I would not want to go through all the prepping again only to have it fail.

Your floor looks nice though

 

[fuzzymoto]

Hello everyone. I figured it was time for an update, so after washing the floor for the first time, I thought I'd post. Two cars, lots of salt & cinders from winter, multiple indoor car washes and a few construction projects later and the floor is good--despite not cleaning it in 5 months. As far as sealing the chips, I haven't seen much of a problem at all. There are a few white chips that are slightly discolored where I park, but even those scrub clean if you take the time to scrub them. I did rinse the floor yesterday with a little soap and a push-broom and it came out really clean. I have not atempted the pressure washer, degreaser or a scrub brush yet. As far as failures of the flooring I've only seen one, and in Epoxy-Coat's defense, this is NOT an Epoxy failure. One of my worker bee's knocked over a VERY heavy ladder and it landed heavily on an expansion crack chipping the concrete (and Epoxy)....so it's not exactly what I'd call a failure. As far as what I'd do differently...probably not much with perhaps one exception. If I did it again I'd broadcast more anti-slip sand, especially near the door. Snow-covered boots on Epoxy can be VERY slippy. I did have one near wipe-out when snow-throwing the driveway with snow all over the bottoms of my boots. Beyond that I've been real happy with the Epoxy-Coat results and I plan to buy a floor squeegee to see how well that works for clean-up.

 

[joshualbailey]

Fuzzy, you say you recorded your installation. Was this for warranty purposes to prove you followed directions? Also, I'm wondering about their warranty clause statement: "Epoxy-Coat cannot warranty an existing coatings adhesion to the concrete or any work that we have not performed." Does this mean any installation we do ourselves is not warranted? Surely not.

 

[fuzzymoto]

My wife taped it just for fun, so no it was not for warranty purposes. Mine has been doing great so I haven't worried about any warranty.

 

[thegarageguy]

its never too late to top coat it and add texture.

 

[kibbins]

Why would he want to do that? It's working great and looks great.

 

[fuzzymoto]

I'll agree with kibbins....why would I want to do that? It looks great and is working well.

 

[thegarageguy]

If I did it again I'd broadcast more anti-slip sand, especially near the door. Snow-covered boots on Epoxy can be VERY slippy. I did have one near wipe-out when snow-throwing the driveway with snow all over the bottoms of my boots.

After reading this, the only way to give yourself some non-slip would be to lightly sand your floor, to create a profile, then use a poly with some non-slip. Not only will you not almost bust your *** anymore but you'll have a higher chemical resistance and slow down the definative and eventual ambering of your floor.

 

[fuzzymoto]

After reading this, the only way to give yourself some non-slip would be to lightly sand your floor, to create a profile, then use a poly with some non-slip. Not only will you not almost bust your *** anymore but you'll have a higher chemical resistance and slow down the definative and eventual ambering of your floor.

True...but the risk of trying to add additional expense and additional risk involved with trying to apply a clear coat to a product not designed for a clear coat....hardly worth the cost and risk.

Wow you vendors just don't give up do you. Here are my facts....agree or don't...I have no financial stake in it. Epoxy-coat worked great for me and I'd highly recommend it. Ambering, what ambering? It's been on for 6 months with nothing even close to ambering.

If you're out there and you're debating a garage floor....PLEASE ask yourself who on this board are vendors and who on this board are real life people with real life experience. WAY too much conflict of interest on this board for my taste. See if you can figure out who's selling and who's not.

 

[thegarageguy]

My freind, I am not a vendor. I am an owner of a company who specializes in total garage transformations and decorative concrete coatings. I do not sell DIY flooring products. The reason for me (anonymously)posting on hear, mainly, is to help give advice and to help people understand decorative concrete coatings without self promoting or pushing or naming specific products. This is done purposly so as to ensure people I am genuine. Obviously it didnt translate that way to you.

I am not an engineer or chemist. All my experiences came through installation trial and error and many, many seminars and training session from multiple manufacturers over the past 6 years. Also if you notice, I have never mentioned my company nor have I ever told anyone to pm me for a good source. I have no finacial interest in your or anyone elses floors here. I have gained one (1) customer from this forum and it was completely unsolicited.

BTW, all epoxies will amber and yellow. Its an definitive eventuality. Also, since you mentioned that your floor looks fine but slippery, the only solution , without removing your current system would be to add texture via a topcoat. Notice I didnt mention which brand topcoat.

Lighten up.

 

[fuzzymoto]

Call it what you want and spin it any way you'd like. For me there is a distinct difference between the experiences of a regular garage owner using a product and the advice given by someone in the business of selling garage flooring products. Regardless of whether or not you directly sell here or sell DIY kits at all, it's advice that isn't the same. I appreciate the expertise, but I've honestly read hundreds of thread on this board, and ironically enough, the vendor advice coincidentally always seems to lean people toward the products they represent...or at best away from a competing product.

For me, I'm VERY happy with my Epoxy-Coat application and it came out VERY nice. Unfortunately, after this successful application and the lesssons learned from it, it is difficult for the casual reader to distinguish between the reality and the poison that vendors add to the thread in order to drive people away from a product I chose and toward a product they sell.

Please don't think any of us are naieve enough to realize that you don't have to be a named business selling DIY kits on this forum to sway people away from or toward a product. In this case it simply isn't really helpful to anyone reading a real-world experience with Epoxy-Coat, to have vendors of other products casting doubt.

Oh and by the way what I said was that if I had it to do all over again, I would have used more anti-slip in certain areas. This was advice to people doing garage floors in the future and not a cry for help to come up with some expensive and risky procedure.

Funny how when you tell someone to "lighten up" it almost never works...

 

[premierguy]

I learned quite a bit from this site when I was choosing my new garage flooring system, so I promised myself when I was done, I'd do a full write-up on my experience. I apologize if there's quite a bit of detail, but hopefully it will help someone else.

Six month "post application" is plenty of time to begin noticing some changes (70% of the time).


Whats going on Fuzzy?

 

[fuzzymoto]

Six month "post application" is plenty of time to begin noticing some changes (70% of the time).


Whats going on Fuzzy?

There's an update above but the floor's doing great. I wash my car on it all the time, it cleans up nice it hasn't delaminated in any way and it still looks and performs really well. It's seen heavy use since Feb with two cars, salt, cinders and dirt in and out several times a day. I've dragged large crates (800 lbs) on a palate-jack across it and even spilled paint and oil on it with no visible damage from any of the above. I did have a tire mark on it, but that scrubbed off pretty easily. Still looking good and I'd stil recommend Epoxy-Coat after 6 months. I'll update again in a few months since I believe early in the post some people said until 6-8 months had passed the results were inconclusive.

Stay tuned.

 

[impalanut]

I can offer another opinion of a homeowner. I had an epoxy coat floor put in by epoxy coat. It does have a clear coat. it has been down over a year. Overall, the product itself seems ok. There has been no yellowing of the clearcoat. The clearcoat does scratch easily, but I expected that. The main problem is that the guys who did the actual application did a poor job in some areas. Within a few weeks of the initial application, the clear coat lifted in many areas. Each individual area was small, and tended to be near the walls and corners. The company has provided poor customer service, they sent out a different guy each time to repair the floor, but no one did any actual repairs. Eventually they stopped answering my calls. If you are good at DIY you could probably use their materials to do your floor. If I was doing it all again, I would just polish the floors for a little more money and be done with it.

 

[fuzzymoto]

Interesting. I've heard some applications of Epoxy-coat did use a clear coat. Mine did not, and in fact one of the reasons I chose Epoxy-coat was because it was a non-clear-coat system. How long ago did you do yours?

 

[WolverineCoatings]

Glad to hear your floor is doing well fuzzy...

 

[premierguy]

As your diagnostics continues, it would be nice to keep a record of I.R readings on the (front edge, 5 feet inward, and 10 ft inward towards the center slab).

*Temperature Readings on the slab during Hot season and Cold season...

*Lbs. of salt per person is used in your area...

*Type of Concrete pour...

*Pics Right Now! and Later as time continues...


Appearances alone doesn't mean your not an Epoxy Criminal...

Good ol USA..... Innocent till proven guilty.

 

[thegarageguy]

As your diagnostics continues, it would be nice to keep a record of I.R readings on the (front edge, 5 feet inward, and 10 ft inward towards the center slab).

*Temperature Readings on the slab during Hot season and Cold season...

*Lbs. of salt per person is used in your area...

*Type of Concrete pour...

Then don't forget to:

* measure the distance from the earth to the moon
* calculate the ambient air temperature of Saturn
* Forcast any sun flares during any given time of the day

 

[fuzzymoto]

Wow...and here I just planned to park a car on it.

 

[premierguy]

Get serious garageguy, I love science as much as the next guy; **** your Bathroom Scientific Approaches for the time to reach Uranus aren’t factors for Fuzzy’s Studies here...

From now on to the Future garageguy…. Just Keep It Clean!


DA- DUN- DUNT….

 

[AlphaGarage]

That does it. Tomorrow I'm going to our storage area, find that shoebox full of my childhood stuff, and dig out my old Jonny Quest Secret Decoder Ring!

 

[joshualbailey]

Fuzzy,

I ordered a full kit to cover roughly 420 sf of garage floor. The floor has been prepared and I'm translating the 4 sets of directions (part A&B containers, 6 gallon container, pamphlet, and stick) into my own words in a monolithic list. I measured the marks on the stick and found a discrepancy. All of the directions say 2 parts A to 1 part B. The stick measurements reveals a shortage of part A by 1/8 inch per batch on the "standard mixing" side, and 9/16 inch per batch on the "double mixing" side. I recalled that you had some leftover in your application, and thought I had solved the mystery. However, it seems like you had more part B leftover, which is the reverse situation of mine. If I were to follow the markings on the stick, I would surely have left-over part A. I'm going to contact Epoxy-Coat to see if they have done this intentionally and, if so, why. And a few nitpick discrepancies are that the directions say add part B to part A, but the stick dictates adding part A to part B. This is probably a perfectly interchangeable process, but I know certain chemicals (acids) need to be added to water, and not the reverse (to minimize erratic reactions). Also, the stick dictates mixing a minimal amount to cover a 10x12ft area for 9.7 mils thickness, and a 10x24ft area for 20mils thickness, but the part A&B containers state to apply the product in no more than 10x10ft. areas at a time. I can live with the last two discrepencies, but the first one is a bit odd and needs answering by Epoxy-Coat before I continue. Seems like if I mixed an exact 2:1 solution, then this would still work as advertised.

I'm glad your garage turned out great. I ordered extra flakes for looks and aluminum oxide for traction. I rented a concrete grinder for preparation, but I'll also use their muriatic acid prep solution as a backup. I purchased some plain jane concrete stain to cover my foundation walls and adjoining utility room floor. I'll post pics when completed. One last thing, I don't see why they tell you to pour a line 2 feet away from wall. It makes more sense to me to pour 1 foot or less away from wall so that there is less area to "cut-in", and more area to squeegee. Perhaps it spreads out to cover 2 feet on its own before cutting in. Just a thought.

 

[fuzzymoto]

Sounds like you have it covered for the most part. I can say as you progress with subsequent batches, the measuring marks get a little tricky to see, but I'd certainly check with Epoxy-coat if you think the marks are wrong. As far as 10x10 areas at a time, I followed roughly that same square footage so my mixing was easier. It's definitely worth dividing up the room into batches roughly that size...I marked them with tape ahead of time. I don't recall pouring 2-feet from the foundation walls and while the mixture does float out a little, I'm sure you'll be fine at 1 foot. As long as you can cut in without stepping in the mix. I'd definitely buy or make the spiked shoes. If you make them use sturdy plywood, otherwise the particles of wood may fall off while working. I would use lots of flakes and lots of anti-slip. It does make it a little harder to sweep or squeegee, but it's worth it to not break your hump in the snow. One final and new warning. Do NOT get Part A on anything you value. It never really hardens, it remains sticky for months and even xylene doesn't ever really take it off.

I would check out the measurement-stick with Epoxy-Coat and I would be careful, but in the end it was much easier (and almost a little fun) than I thought it would be.

 

[joshualbailey]

I think I answered my own question. I put 4 cups into the 6 gallon bucket supplied, which hit the first mark on the stick. Then I added another 8 cups and it was perfectly level with the second mark on the stick. It must be the sloped sides of the bucket that make up for this difference in vertical height.

 

[fuzzymoto]

I did try to hold the measuring stick frimly to the side (and bottom) of the bucket.