Epoxy-Coat on new garage floor

[ClemsonScout]

Hello all,

This will be my second time using Epoxy-Coat on a new 900sqft garage floor. Did some searching on the site and have a few questions. The last floor I did in 2011, Epoxy-coat didn't say anything about diamond grinding the floor (old concrete) and it turned out great. Now they say diamond grind, but according my research on the forum, it seems this isn't necessary. Is it? Epoxy-Coat also said acid etching isn't required, but it seems the consensus here is that it is required on new concrete. Assuming acid etching is required:

1) Pressure wash
2) Acid Etch
3) Pressure wash
4) Lay thin coat (with blower handy)
5) Lay final coat top coat

Do my steps seem sound?

Thank you,

Rob

 

[Armorpoxy]

We always say to follow the manufacturer's directions, but there are literally thousands of posts here about failures due to poor prep. At the minimum etch and apply, or if you grind (better than etching) you need to use an epoxy primer which your supplier apparently doesn't offer, but our Armorclad Primer is fully compatible if you go that route.

Priming always gives a better, and more even outcome, and makes the epoxy much thicker since it wont soak into the primed floor.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Hello all,

This will be my second time using Epoxy-Coat on a new 900sqft garage floor. Did some searching on the site and have a few questions. The last floor I did in 2011, Epoxy-coat didn't say anything about diamond grinding the floor (old concrete) and it turned out great. Now they say diamond grind, but according my research on the forum, it seems this isn't necessary. Is it? Epoxy-Coat also said acid etching isn't required, but it seems the consensus here is that it is required on new concrete. Assuming acid etching is required:

1) Pressure wash
2) Acid Etch
3) Pressure wash
4) Lay thin coat (with blower handy)
5) Lay final coat top coat

Do my steps seem sound?

Thank you,

Rob

Not sure what the blower/thin-coat is.
Use a good primer and put the blower away. Compatible with all major brands of epoxy, including Epoxy-Coat.

http://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/primer-coatings/standard-epoxy-primer-coating.html
Here are some posts from other GJ folk that used our primer with EC :
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=290602
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=246234&highlight=epoxy-coat+legacy

 

[JStar4]

Grind!!!

 

[Shea]

I think the leaf blower was Epoxy-Coats answer to knocking down bubbles due to out gassing when not using a primer if I remember correctly.

 

[Pcoghlan]

For what its worth here is my advice. I just put Epoxy Coat down on a 28x36 workshop. It came out great but was slow to harden. As of tomorrow it would have been down 2 weeks and I still don't want to put a vehicle on it.

I was able to walk on it the next day but finger nails still leave a slight impression even 10 days later.

Before applying it I asked on here whether etch v grind on here and was advised to grind, am VERY happy I did.

I had made a bad decision previously and put down a cheaper epoxy. When I decided to replace it I ground it all off and was shocked to find areas where it just peeled off of the floor, zero bonding. Other areas were fine. Bear in mind I used an acid etch for the cheaper epoxy too but it seems that in areas where there was staining the bond was next to zero despite the etch.

Once I ground the floor the whole pad looked brand new. The Epoxy Coat went down just fine and looks awesome but as I said earlier, SLOOOOOW to dry/cure. I had similar drying issues when using it before also. Once dried it is super. I have seen several others have this issue in long drying time so don't be too quick to move things back into the garage. I probably wont put a vehicle on it for another 2 weeks.

PS: DO use a primer per the suggestions above. Otherwise you lose a chunk of epoxy as it sinks into the concrete. The primer will result in a thicker/smoother finish.