Epoxy Finish Resurface

[Landspeeder]

After 5 years of projects (fiberglass resins, 2 overspray incidents, some dropped iron, etc) my epoxy finish has taken on some chemical stains and pop damage.

I am considering renting a floor sander from the local home store and going over the entire surface to remove the surface oil overspray, fiberglass resin, and scratches, followed by a clear coat epoxy.

Is this OK to do for a refresh?

Is 'Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Premium Clear Coating' an OK product - if not what do you recommend?



Thanks

 

[benwah]

Are you sure you just want a clear on there? It will look janky. Your chips will be half scratched and half gone.

I suggest aggressively power-sanding the entire floor to remove whatever clear you have on there now and scratch those chips up.

Apply 1 coat of Tnemec Series 280 Tneme-Glaze at 6.0-8.0 mils DFT

then

Apply 1 coat of Tnemec Series 290 CRU at 2.5 mils.

As far as the concrete protruding past garage door.. I personally would grind it down and coat it.

 

[Landspeeder]

Are you sure you just want a clear on there?

Nope - I just want an economical way to get rid of the excessive scratches and overspray stains. You are the second one to share with me the evils of clearcoats (the first was via PM).

I personally would grind it down and coat it.

I was seeking advice on this in another post: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=254339
Cement Scaling Exposed Lip Fix (help please)

What do you think about using a ‘7 in x 14-Segment Concrete-Cutting Circular Saw Blade’ Dry blade into my tracksaw (normally used for wood cutting) and cut a ¾” deep groove about 1” up into the garage (well within the epoxy protected area). This will give me a clean line to work from.

Is a 5” cement grinder the correct tool to use for the surface removal?

Coat recommendations?

THANK YOU

 

[benwah]

As far as sanding the floor, this is what you would want to do.

What do you think about using a ‘7 in x 14-Segment Concrete-Cutting Circular Saw Blade’ Dry blade into my tracksaw (normally used for wood cutting) and cut a ¾” deep groove about 1” up into the garage (well within the epoxy protected area). This will give me a clean line to work from.

Maybe it is because it's so early in the morning, but I am confused. What would be the purpose of this?

Is a 5” cement grinder the correct tool to use for the surface removal?

7" Diamabrush rental from Home Depot or hardware store.

Coat recommendations?

Look at previous post. How many sq. ft. is your garage area?


After sanding and grinding the floor, be sure to give it a nice solvent wipe with denatured alcohol.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

Might be simpler to go over it with another of the garage coating kits like you used the first time.

 

[Landspeeder]

As far as sanding the floor, this is what you would want to do.

Thank you, that is what I was thinking of too.

Maybe it is because it's so early in the morning, but I am confused. What would be the purpose of this?

The raw/exposed cement lip surface cement has all delaminated/scaled due to improper finishing of the concrete (according to an engineering report). I want to remove the remaining surface AND have a clean line to work from. This way I can pour a 3/4” thick lip of quickcrete/polymer/whatever material and have a smooth like new exposed lip rather than a pitted/popped/patched surface.

Step 1 – cut a clean line to work from:


Step 2 – grind out the material between the line and the edge of the garage:


Step 3 – Damn the outer corner with a piece of melamine
Step 4 – pour some kind of material into the ¾” deep trench… not certain what this should material should be

How many sq. ft. is your garage area?do[/URL].

About 425

As far as sanding the floor, After sanding and grinding the floor, be sure to give it a nice solvent wipe with denatured alcohol QUOTE]

Thanks

Might be simpler to go over it with another of the garage coating kits like you used the first time.

This was a model home, I bought it already done – the epoxy covering will be a first for me. The builder told me I would need to go over the surface every 5-6 years with a fresh clear epoxy coat to keep it looking good. The builders company is no more – the flatwork company has been sued out of existence (not by me). This is why I thought the clearcoat would work - I have since received an education and you may be correct.