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Epoxy Flooring - How is yours holding up?

Jokeman

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
394
Location
Boston
I know lots of folks here have done Epoxy floors by multiple different manufactures. Let's make a thread to show how everyones floor is holding up.

Things to include.

Manufacturer of Epoxy

How long has the epoxy been down

What type of condition the floor is in(cracking, chipping, peeling, yellowing etc)

What type of traffic the floor sees(foot only, vehicle parking, heavy mechanics work, etc)

If you can post pictures of the floor in its current state that would be helpful.


I think this would be a big help for anyone who is planning on purchasing epoxy for their garage. If anyone has any more ideas of stuff to add to the list, let's hear them.
 
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Ruddy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 13, 2010
Messages
205
Location
Pollock Pines California
Epoxy-Coat
2 weeks for clear over basecoat
No real issues so far, but can say that floor will scratch fairly easily. Gritty ATV tires, bicycle kick stands and hard plastic of a shop vac tool will all leave fine scratches.
Hey its just a garage, so no biggie, but if your thinking it will all stay as shiny has when it first dried, it won't.
 

nate379

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Joined
Feb 2, 2009
Messages
7,279
Location
Palmer, AK
Lowe's stuff... Quick Crete I think?

About a year old and looks almost new. Couple melt marks from slag and torched off parts, but otherwise looks fine.
 

Mustanger

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2010
Messages
105
Location
VA
Quick-Crete
3 years old
Couple of places where tires picked it up, some scrapes, little fading. Hind sight being 20/20, wish I had put a glaze on.
 

hldtyt

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
67
Location
St. Charles MO
Wolverine

Floor was 8 years old prior to coating. Usual expansion cracks and some very minor pitting. Garage is used by kids daily riding tractors and bikes etc..... Car with drag radials and I run a medium sized lawn service out of it. Lots of mower traffic and zero degree turns as the mowers are moved around. It also house an 8k pound F-250. I thought for sure when the tires were turned on top of it, it would lift. Nope nothing at all not even the truck has hurt it.

Bondtite prime LiquaTilecolor with full broadcast of flakes. Topped with Endurashield.

Coatings is over a yeard old and has zero lift or and adhesions failures. Drag radials havent hurt nor has the mower traffic. All in all more than pleased. Looks great and gets lots of compliments.

I will get some pics and day or two.
 

ods dan

Active member
Joined
Mar 3, 2010
Messages
31
I know lots of folks here have done Epoxy floors by multiple different manufactures. Let's make a thread to show how everyones floor is holding up.

Things to include.

Manufacturer of Epoxy

How long has the epoxy been down

What type of condition the floor is in(cracking, chipping, peeling, yellowing etc)

What type of traffic the floor sees(foot only, vehicle parking, heavy mechanics work, etc)

If you can post pictures of the floor in its current state that would be helpful.


I think this would be a big help for anyone who is planning on purchasing epoxy for their garage. If anyone has any more ideas of stuff to add to the list, let's hear them.

you can come down and see my wolverine coating at the shop. I just put an addition on for my own stuff and will be coating it in 3 weeks or so.. hopefully.. got it waiting at the shop now.
 
OP
J

Jokeman

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
394
Location
Boston
you can come down and see my wolverine coating at the shop. I just put an addition on for my own stuff and will be coating it in 3 weeks or so.. hopefully.. got it waiting at the shop now.

Hey Dan, maybe later this summer I will shoot down there on a weekend and check it out. Gotta get settled in the new house first, wife has a lot she wants done. I am hoping to find something I can drag the sleds over and not have it destroy it. Lemme know how that Wolverine works out.
 

ods dan

Active member
Joined
Mar 3, 2010
Messages
31
no sleds in that part, but cars will be... I would not put sleds on it unless on rollers etc. I should be working on it in a few weeks, will send pics or post them.
 

tcianci

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
4,242
Location
Walpole, Ma
StonHard epoxy
10 years old
no cracks
no lifting
solid grey color A few burn marks from welding, some scratches and chips from dropping stuff and hammering stuff
Lots of paint splatters and overspray, gonna clean it up this summer
No tire pickup.
All in all a great floor.
 

scbird94

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 24, 2009
Messages
594
Location
Sauk Rapids, MN
Rustoleum epoxy sheild w/glaze coat

1 year

Holds up good. i do a LOT of heavy work in there, so engines on stands rolling around, cherry pickers, cars in/out, motorcycle kickstands, hammering out front end parts, jack stands....

some scratches and scuffs but it still cleans up super easy. I had a fairly large crack along the length of the garage that i filled with quickrete, this spring the ground must have shifted because the crack opened- and split the epoxy the whole length, so a few chips have pulled off from that.

other than that, i love it because it gets nasty disgusting and i just spray it down with water, work some degreaser in with a push broom, rinse it down the drain. spotless.
 

houstonhusker

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2008
Messages
58
Location
Spring, TX
I've got Rustoleum Base, Quikrete Clear and chips from Norcan on ebay with heavy broadcast. The floor in the picture is about 4 months old...but did the same set up in my last house and had no issues over 2+ years I lived there. All in all, I'm very happy with Rustoleum and Quikrete epoxy....
0_0_0e342787429446fa65718ce0385b60d0_1
 
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OldCarGuy

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Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
2,008
Location
Ohio
I coated three of my five garages (totally 3,500 square feet) with Sherwin William's Armor Seal 1000 HS. There has been no lifting, cracks, or discolorations in the five years since I put it down. Other than chips from dropping heavy items or welding and paint over-sprays. .

This garage without any traffic to speak of looks like the day it was coated. All the windows are UV protective and have aluminum blinds...

DSCF0696.jpg


This is in a heavy use area in my garage machine shop...

DSCF1920.jpg
 

CrashTestDummy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2009
Messages
232
U-Coat-It
40X80 shop
gray with gloss clearcoat
It's about 9 months old now. Still looks great. Cars parked for >4 months at a time have zero pull-up when moved (I moved one last weekend). Minor scratches and chips where one of the pallet rack rails fell, but looks GREAT otherwise. I'm amazed at what you can drag across it and not leave a mark.

Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas
 

Jaguar Fan

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 13, 2008
Messages
5,507
Location
Park City for Ski Season; Las Vegas for Poker Seas
Here is a link to my project including pictures. The floor has held up flawlessly. No yellowing, no chipping, no "fish eyes" - it looks as good today as the day it was put down. Clean-up is just a damp mop. My semi-brain-damaged brother even left an old rusty box on the ground after a hose-out cleaning & it rusted on the surface. If it were bare concrete, it would have left a bad rust stain. On top of the epoxy clear coat, it wiped up with just a little elbow grease.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16957
 

boiler7904

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 4, 2006
Messages
3,414
Location
NW IN
Rust Oleum Epoxy Shield Pro (Solvent Based) - 2 coats color (Tile Red) and 1 coat clear with 1 package each Rust Oleum Anti-Skid and Color Flakes

Floor prepped last weekend August 2006, Material applied Labor Day weekend 2006 - 1 coat per day. No vehicle traffic for one week after application.

Light scratches in clear coat in high traffic areas. Have noticed two quarter sized areas that are chipping where I park my truck and another chip that is roughly 1" x 1/4" along a wall.

Floor is used for vehicle parking and light mechanical use - floor jack and jackstands on wood or VCT pads when possible.

Paint overspray wipes up with Acetone. Other spills clean up with general purposed cleaners like Simple Green.
 

dmeadow

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2005
Messages
952
Location
Houston, Texas
I used Rustoleum about 5 years ago. Half of the garage was concrete that was about 6 years old and half had sit about 40 days.

I think I would have had better results if I had let the newer concrete sit longer. I've had problems with the surface cracking and peeling and lifting, mostly on the newer concrete, particularly where I used a floor jack.

The floor on the older concrete held up better, but still lifted under hot tires and cars that had sat for a long time. It has

I also had some sulphuric acid escape from charging batteries that ate right through it. Not sure if I should have expected that it wouldn't.

Next time I'll use something different, maybe U Coat It.
 
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mrobins297aaa

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Joined
Sep 20, 2010
Messages
3,283
Location
south east michigan
Here's a few pic's of my u-coat it floor at the last house I lived at.

here it is taking a beating........this is also what you end up doing if you don't change the timing belt on your car as the manufacturer recommends.........lol

DSCN4568.jpg


here it is cleaned up..........its about 4 years old here, right now its 7 years old and still looks good. many times I parked big time oil leakers all winter and in the spring when I moved them the oil clean up with just a rag.

DSCN3954.jpg


the only complaints I can think of are i had a few stains from the exhaust while running cars indoors and the condensate from the exhaust left a stain on the floor .....not always
and also the clear coat peeled where it was exposed to the out doors. I should have stopped the coating on the inside of the overhead doors but I ran it out to the end on the garage slab which was even with the outside wall of the garage (maybe 4")
other than that it was a good floor.
 
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Edger

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Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
623
Location
Melbourne Australia
I used Rustoleum about 5 years ago. Half of the garage was concrete that was about 6 years old and half had sit about 40 days.

I think I would have had better results if I had let the newer concrete sit longer. I've had problems with the surface cracking and peeling and lifting, mostly on the newer concrete, particularly where I used a floor jack.

The floor on the older concrete held up better, but still lifted under hot tires and cars that had sat for a long time. It has

I also had some sulphuric acid escape from charging batteries that ate right through it. Not sure if I should have expected that it wouldn't.

Next time I'll use something different, maybe U Coat It.


Suggestion.. prepare the surface very well next time, what you describe is more likely due to insufficient preparation rather than the slab or the epoxy.
 

Chris Adams

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Messages
2,117
Old thread but seeing as it is now getting some action:

Costco Epoxy kit, the one you order on line, used two kits in 672 square foot of new concrete.

Had installation problems, due to being forced into a rush application, way too hot a morning, and equipment failure. Spike shoe failure, flake dispenser broke.

Installation was 18 months ago.

Usage includes;
Two portable lifts being assembled and moved around the shop.
Several transmission replacements.
Extensive body work.
All car/truck fluids spilled/dripped on floor many times. That's brake fluid, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, transmission fluid, gasoline, solvents, oil, etc. etc. etc.
Floor jack moved many times, especially during body work.
Jack stands.
MANY dropped tools and dropped car parts.
Heavy items dragged.
Many heavily loaded tool boxes rolled around.
Vehicles as heavy as F350 V10 Dually worked on.
Daily parking for one to two vehicles, including my F150.
Lots of toolboxes laid on side during restoration work (things like full size Matco double boxes, Hammerhead boxes, etc.)

Results;
roughly dozen broken places, where the epoxy has cracked and come up, one bigger than a half dollar, the others smaller than a dime. All from impacts.
Assorted scratches in top layer.
A few very weird stains that seem to have bonded with the epoxy. This was caused by transmission fluid, which only stained certain areas. Other nearby areas with much more fluid did not stain.


Overall impressions after 18 months of being careful, but not letting the floor rule my usage of the shop:

I like it.

It cleans much better than plain concrete. Stays way cleaner.

Looks good to the casual eye. Never had anyone notice the damaged places since the shop started getting usage. I have pointed out the problems to visitors, who still say the shop floor looks great.


Would I do it again?

I might think about the paint on surfaces, the 'treatments' that leave the concrete looking the same but seal it, but that is because of cost.

If cost were not a factor (my epoxy job cost very close to a buck a square foot) I would use epoxy again.

I would not leave the concrete untreated.
The cleanliness is so much better that I am spoiled and don't want to work in untreated shops/garages.

I also work on the floor a lot more than other people, as I walk with a cane, or two... So sitting or laying on the floor is an everyday occurrence and the cleaner surface is very appreciated.
 

musgofasta

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Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Messages
802
Location
Corona CA
Home Depot Rustoleum 2-part Epoxy + Rustoleum Clear (bought online)

5 years - no cracking, no peeling, still cleans great. The 12'' outside the garage door has minor yellowing from the sun but inside garage looks as good as day 1.

Minor color variation in the gray, my fault I think from not maintaining a conistent coat. Next time will get 2 coats of color, heavy chips, then clear.

This was on new concrete about 6 months old.
 

thegarageguy

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Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
1,489
Location
NJ
Just so happened my sales rep stopped by an old client to say hello and take
some pics

A 5 yr old working shop floor, used daily (Decorative epoxy chip system, sealed with polyaspartic topcoat, Graphite blend in 1/16")

5yroldgaragefloor.jpg
 

porphyre

Banned
Joined
Sep 2, 2009
Messages
1,321
FYI Rustoleum is about 53% solids. Ucoat it is around 43% solids.

[sigh]... Alpha is misleading by omission again...

Rustoleum Water Based is 53% solids. Of course, no one recommends that product.
http://www.rustoleumibg.com/images/tds/CBG_TDS_EpoxyShield Garage_2010.pdf

Rustoleum Solvent Based (marketed as "Professional") is a range of 69% to 72% solids.
http://www.rustoleumibg.com/images/tds/CBG_EP_TDS_Pro Solvent Based Floor Coating_609.pdf

This information was available in 2010 when Alpha made the post.
 

fat rat 56

Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2010
Messages
18
Manufacturer of Epoxy: Sherwin William's

How long has the epoxy been down: 15 years

What type of condition the floor is in(cracking, chipping, peeling, yellowing etc): none

What type of traffic the floor see: Light duty, some staining from fluids leaking
 
Joined
Feb 9, 2015
Messages
5
Location
New Jersey
Suggestion.. prepare the surface very well next time, what you describe is more likely due to insufficient preparation rather than the slab or the epoxy.

Novalac epoxy will withstand the sulphuric. Realize this is an old post but for anyone out there being concerned with similar issues. Novolac is a family of epoxy that most material providers offer for high chemical resistance.
As for bond, I would have to agree, typically a prep issue. Possibly du to the new concrete not achieving a full cure and holding some moisture that hasn't dehydrated.
In cases of new pours needing a protective coating use cement urethane vs epoxy as this product can go down on green concrete and also cure in as fast as 6 hours.
 

BoostAddiction

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Joined
Jan 23, 2006
Messages
885
Location
Western North Carolina
I know lots of folks here have done Epoxy floors by multiple different manufactures. Let's make a thread to show how everyones floor is holding up.

Things to include.

Manufacturer of Epoxy

How long has the epoxy been down

What type of condition the floor is in(cracking, chipping, peeling, yellowing etc)

What type of traffic the floor sees(foot only, vehicle parking, heavy mechanics work, etc)

If you can post pictures of the floor in its current state that would be helpful.


I think this would be a big help for anyone who is planning on purchasing epoxy for their garage. If anyone has any more ideas of stuff to add to the list, let's hear them.


Epoxy manufacturer was Precision Epoxy. Owner applied. 3 coats of color IIIRC, with a clear coat. No flakes, just pure epoxy.

My epoxy floor has been down for about 10 years.

The floor has been OK throughout its life until about 5 years ago when it began to get stained, and no amount of cleaning - including solvents, sanding, etc., would get it clean. Where it saw tire abuse from turning hot tires with embedded stones, it scratched, and subsequently stained. Never had a problem with lifting or other typical failures with epoxy except for the scratching and staining. I did have a few small spots of self-inflicted damage from molten metal, but that was not a floor defect.

The floor sees parking, mild fabrication and occasional TIG welding.

No current pics, and it's now been replaced by the RibTrax tile from Garage FLooring LLC. I hope that will hold up longer than the epoxy, but just in case, I have a fair amount of spare tiles. :)
 

HemiRamOn22s

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Joined
Feb 10, 2015
Messages
565
Location
Delaware
Our shop floor was done 4 years ago and its holding up good. No tire marks or staining but it does scratch pretty easy. Mostly when im dragging the floor jack around and a wheel catches a rock. I do reguarly clean it with a commercial floor scrubber. Its gray epoxy with the black and white chips and then sealed overtop. Had it professionally done. My next shop i will just have the concrete sealed. about 1/10 the cost and i will be able to weld on it.
 

spammie

Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
12
My 2009 Wolverine epoxy garage floor is failing massively.

First the part that extends outside the garage door started yellowing - not a big deal. That's what you see in the bottom part of the attached picture.

But then it started developing cracks & large sections (6" - 10" or so) started buckling, lifting up & delaminating. I had the floor prepped & installed professionally according to instructions.

The garage sees little traffic; I mostly use it for storage, laundry, treadmill, etc.

Since Fred @ Alphagarage was out of commission I tried to contact Wolverine but didn't get any help. I read that his brother is involved now so I just sent another email, hoping they might have some advice.

Has anybody else had a similar experience? Any thoughts on what to do next?
 

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LegacyIndustrial

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deerfield, IL
Professionals would not run the epoxy out under the door. Yellowing is not the issue, it's the lack of vapor barrier once you leave the garage. That may be the reason you are seeing these issues. Moisture can find it's way back under the epoxy causing it to lift and then ultimately crack.
 

JCQuick

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Joined
Nov 29, 2008
Messages
4,933
Location
Apopka Fla.
My u-coat it is 9 years old now seen lots of abuse, it does have a few spots that stained one is when my pressure washer had a pin holes in the fuel tank and puddled at the front tires of my race car. but for the most part it has held up well. The new shop will be getting a different coating just haven't made up my mind yet
 

retfr8flyr

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Joined
Mar 7, 2013
Messages
756
Location
Providence Forge, VA
My Wolverine Products floor is 2 years old now and I have rolled heavy machinery, riding mowers, floor jacks, jack stands and everything else you can think of for an average full use garage. My floor today looks just like it did when I put it down. Here are a couple of recent shots of the woodworking side of my garage. I am standing in the center bay and the floor is a little dirty from the car A/C draining. It will clean up just fine and other than that fact it looks good as new. I have no staining from anything I have dropped on the floor, even wood stains just wipe right up. There isn't any tire marks or lifting from the racing tires in my hot rod side of the garage either.

I used the full Wolverine list with primer, main coat, full flakes and 2 coats of polyurethane clear coat finish coat.





 

spammie

Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
12
Professionals would not run the epoxy out under the door. Yellowing is not the issue, it's the lack of vapor barrier once you leave the garage. That may be the reason you are seeing these issues. Moisture can find it's way back under the epoxy causing it to lift and then ultimately crack.

Thanks for your reply. I guess that's possible, although I got the EnduraShield 2254, which the instructions say are for "outdoor applications," and the instructions didn't say not apply on the apron.

Any remediation ideas??
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,995
Location
deerfield, IL
Yes, you will have to tap the floor until you find there is no more delam. That is your starting point for grinding off the rest, use a diamabrush hand tool. Once all is ground, re-install the system. This time stop it at the door. Use a nice transition strip or tsunami seal over this. Door will seal down on it tight.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

spammie

Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
12
Yes, you will have to tap the floor until you find there is no more delam. That is your starting point for grinding off the rest, use a diamabrush hand tool. Once all is ground, re-install the system. This time stop it at the door. Use a nice transition strip or tsunami seal over this. Door will seal down on it tight.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks, I was afraid that was the remedy. Unfortunately even if Wolverine products are available now (not sure if Alphagarage is active yet) I doubt I'll be able to get Wolverine products in a very small batch. Ugh.
 
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