Epoxy vs Tile flooring

[mustangmatt]

Mustangmatt's Epoxy Floor Project

Hello all,

I have been a long time lurker here but really have been reading the board ALOT lately as I am closing on my first Single Family Home ever. I am going from a tiny 2 car to a 25x39 "4 car" "dream" garage. I close this Friday and have been busy doing research on this site as I want to do my floor RIGHT and go from there. All of the vendors on here have been very helpful from what I can see and really go above and beyond, there are a couple in mind that I think I may have narrowed it down to but definitely open to option.

All that being said I want to get educated on the different Pro's and Con's about Epoxy vs Tile setups. Here is the backround of my garage...

-COLD Minnesota winters. Harsh climate, very wide temperature spread (I live in the twin cities but seriously it gets as cold as -20 and hot as 100+... Salt is also prevalent but will only be in the "daily driver" part of the garage.
-There is a wall between one side of the garage and the other
-I plan on installing a lift
-I work on cars as my hobby and will more then likely do a small amount of side jobs on cars to supplement income
-The garage does not currently have a heat source although I will be installing something before winter hits (wish I would have been there to put radiant heating in ).
-There are some light oil stains
-I am prepared to do any job DIY to cut costs but I have a fairly large budget for this.
-I have attached pics to give a better look at the garage...

Things I desire:
-Ease of cleaning (heard you can just wipe stuff up with epoxy, not sure on tiles) I have no hose out in the garage.
-Grip. Several I have spoken with said epoxy gets slippery, I would rather hear it from the pros though.
-Durability, I wont be working out there every day but when I do I am sure I will be beating the hell out of it.

I think that covers all the bases for me, I really appreciate any input or responses ahead of time and really enjoy this forum! Thank you!

-Mustangmatt

 

[Dan0myte]

The easiest way to look at this is to look at what the professionals do. Think about your last trip to the dealership when you took your car in for service.

Typically, the dealership has a 'receiving' area where you pull your car into for inspection. This is where the service staff have a look over your car, talk about what work needs to be done, look under and around the car, etc. This area is usually tiled as it looks clean & professional, it's nice for customers to walk on, it's very easy to clean as many of the cars coming in will be very dirty/muddy/snowy, and it's very nice to lay on in case a service staff member needs to check the undercarriage.

Once you hand your car keys over and they take your car, they pull it into the shop which is typically concrete. When you're working on a car on a lift, there's very little need for floor coatings. There's no need for the shop area to look 'pretty', it just needs to be functional and plain concrete is about as ugly and functional as it gets. When the mechs are working on your car there's nothing they need to worry about. The concrete will take a beating and nobody cares.

So transferring this mentality to your shop: It looks like you're going to have two sections, one for your car and one for working on customers cars. I'd say you tile the side for your car for the looks, durability and function it provides for both you and your vehicle, and save some money by leaving the functional side of your garage concrete.

That's just my $0.02. I'm sure others will say "Epoxy it!" and sure that would look nice but I'm cheap and when you're welding and using heavy tools and jacks, it's hard to beat the cost to performance ratio and the ease of mind of using just plain concrete.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Hello all,

I have been a long time lurker here but really have been reading the board ALOT lately as I am closing on my first Single Family Home ever. I am going from a tiny 2 car to a 25x39 "4 car" "dream" garage. I close this Friday and have been busy doing research on this site as I want to do my floor RIGHT and go from there. All of the vendors on here have been very helpful from what I can see and really go above and beyond, there are a couple in mind that I think I may have narrowed it down to but definitely open to option.

All that being said I want to get educated on the different Pro's and Con's about Epoxy vs Tile setups. Here is the backround of my garage...

-COLD Minnesota winters. Harsh climate, very wide temperature spread (I live in the twin cities but seriously it gets as cold as -20 and hot as 100+... Salt is also prevalent but will only be in the "daily driver" part of the garage.
-There is a wall between one side of the garage and the other
-I plan on installing a lift
-I work on cars as my hobby and will more then likely do a small amount of side jobs on cars to supplement income
-The garage does not currently have a heat source although I will be installing something before winter hits (wish I would have been there to put radiant heating in ).
-There are some light oil stains
-I am prepared to do any job DIY to cut costs but I have a fairly large budget for this.
-I have attached pics to give a better look at the garage...

Things I desire:
-Ease of cleaning (heard you can just wipe stuff up with epoxy, not sure on tiles) I have no hose out in the garage.
-Grip. Several I have spoken with said epoxy gets slippery, I would rather hear it from the pros though.
-Durability, I wont be working out there every day but when I do I am sure I will be beating the hell out of it.

I think that covers all the bases for me, I really appreciate any input or responses ahead of time and really enjoy this forum! Thank you!

-Mustangmatt

First and foremost, I think it is important to understand that there is no right or wrong answer. SlickGT and others, as an example have had a lot of success with porcelain tile. There are hundreds if not thousands of garage shops with RaceDeck and other tile products in them and probably to many to count with epoxy coatings.

Here is a high end way to go with epoxy that would allow us to solve the toughness and the slickness issues: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=290925

Another alternative would be a full broadcast Rust Bullet project like this one http://www.garageflooringllc.com/2015/05/05/rust-bullet-project-beautiful-cars-beautiful-floor/

Garage Floor tile could be used in your case. You would want to apply a densifier and waterproofer to the concrete first. The big 'issue' for some people is the gap between every tile. Large spills can penetrate. Water will go through, hence the reason to protect the floor. Happy to send you tile samples, just PM me an address

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

We send epoxy and urethane to Canada and not as frequently, Alaska.
Therefore no issue with the cold. Leave your joints unfilled, fill post application with a flexible SL caulk.

Epoxy has no grout and therefore no place to trap debris.

If you really want something flexible as a precaution, our Nohr-S Polyurea is 100% more flexible than epoxy and 50% more than urethane (based products).

Nohr-S Pics:

 

[Trey T]

Here's my take on it and I've experience on epoxy and porcelain tiles, but not on plastic tiles (i.e. racedeck)

Installation:
1. Plastic tiles - easiest
2. Epoxy - medium
3. Porcelain tiles - backbreaking

Ready to move in:
1. Plastic tiles - one day
2. Epoxy - one week (safe side)
3. Porcelain tiles - three days

Clean-up
1. Plastic tiles - easy (don't let liquid go b/t the crack)
2. Epoxy - easiest, just mop w/ simple green (I mopped mine twice over a year and it still have great shine)
3. Porcelain tiles - easy to mop but required pressure washer to clean grout

For durability, I believe porcelain will be the most durable and able to w/stand welding splatter while epoxy and plastic tiles will burn.

 

[benwah]

That's a pretty good overview right there by Trey_T.

If you're absolutely worried about welding/plasma/grinding marks, but also want a nice looking floor. A few people I know just buy cheap sheet metal and throw it down in their welding area. Whether it's under horses, or under a car - it protects the floor. It's lightweight and easy to move too.. Just thought I'd throw that out there

 

[mustangmatt]

The easiest way to look at this is to look at what the professionals do. Think about your last trip to the dealership when you took your car in for service.

Typically, the dealership has a 'receiving' area where you pull your car into for inspection. This is where the service staff have a look over your car, talk about what work needs to be done, look under and around the car, etc. This area is usually tiled as it looks clean & professional, it's nice for customers to walk on, it's very easy to clean as many of the cars coming in will be very dirty/muddy/snowy, and it's very nice to lay on in case a service staff member needs to check the undercarriage.

Once you hand your car keys over and they take your car, they pull it into the shop which is typically concrete. When you're working on a car on a lift, there's very little need for floor coatings. There's no need for the shop area to look 'pretty', it just needs to be functional and plain concrete is about as ugly and functional as it gets. When the mechs are working on your car there's nothing they need to worry about. The concrete will take a beating and nobody cares.

So transferring this mentality to your shop: It looks like you're going to have two sections, one for your car and one for working on customers cars. I'd say you tile the side for your car for the looks, durability and function it provides for both you and your vehicle, and save some money by leaving the functional side of your garage concrete.

That's just my $0.02. I'm sure others will say "Epoxy it!" and sure that would look nice but I'm cheap and when you're welding and using heavy tools and jacks, it's hard to beat the cost to performance ratio and the ease of mind of using just plain concrete.

Great response thank you! I think I am going to be working all over the shop including my daily driving area so I'm not sure about if that changes it at all. I would like to be cheap too but I would also like to do it right. Also I think if the product allows me to clean the space easier I wont spend as much time on it.

 

[mustangmatt]

First and foremost, I think it is important to understand that there is no right or wrong answer. SlickGT and others, as an example have had a lot of success with porcelain tile. There are hundreds if not thousands of garage shops with RaceDeck and other tile products in them and probably to many to count with epoxy coatings.

Here is a high end way to go with epoxy that would allow us to solve the toughness and the slickness issues: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=290925

Another alternative would be a full broadcast Rust Bullet project like this one http://www.garageflooringllc.com/2015/05/05/rust-bullet-project-beautiful-cars-beautiful-floor/

Garage Floor tile could be used in your case. You would want to apply a densifier and waterproofer to the concrete first. The big 'issue' for some people is the gap between every tile. Large spills can penetrate. Water will go through, hence the reason to protect the floor. Happy to send you tile samples, just PM me an address

Honestly I was thinking either you or Scotty would be the first to answer my thread really narrowing down the people I am going to choose and the product I am going to go with. I stopped at a Menards today just for poops and giggles and not a single person working there said hi to me or asked if I needed help. I finally went to building materials and I asked about doing an epoxy floor in my garage and he looked at me like I was crazy and said try the paint department, no help there either. I wouldn't mind a sample cause I might do the other area in tile or a smaller amount. I am moving in a few days and that's complicating things.

Porcelain tile is out of the question for me, I would be doing either Epoxy or a "racedeck" type product but really I am leaning towards epoxy now. Will welding burn through Epoxy floors?

Thank you for your response! Expect a PM from me...

We send epoxy and urethane to Canada and not as frequently, Alaska.
Therefore no issue with the cold. Leave your joints unfilled, fill post application with a flexible SL caulk.

Epoxy has no grout and therefore no place to trap debris.

If you really want something flexible as a precaution, our Nohr-S Polyurea is 100% more flexible than epoxy and 50% more than urethane (based products).

Nohr-S Pics:

Thanks Scotty! I am really curious about the Polyurea stuff. I saw a different version at menards and seemed interesting. Also expect a PM from me.

Here's my take on it and I've experience on epoxy and porcelain tiles, but not on plastic tiles (i.e. racedeck)

Installation:
1. Plastic tiles - easiest
2. Epoxy - medium
3. Porcelain tiles - backbreaking

Ready to move in:
1. Plastic tiles - one day
2. Epoxy - one week (safe side)
3. Porcelain tiles - three days

Clean-up
1. Plastic tiles - easy (don't let liquid go b/t the crack)
2. Epoxy - easiest, just mop w/ simple green (I mopped mine twice over a year and it still have great shine)
3. Porcelain tiles - easy to mop but required pressure washer to clean grout

For durability, I believe porcelain will be the most durable and able to w/stand welding splatter while epoxy and plastic tiles will burn.

Awesome response thank you! Helps me narrow it down even more!

That's a pretty good overview right there by Trey_T.

If you're absolutely worried about welding/plasma/grinding marks, but also want a nice looking floor. A few people I know just buy cheap sheet metal and throw it down in their welding area. Whether it's under horses, or under a car - it protects the floor. It's lightweight and easy to move too.. Just thought I'd throw that out there

I wont be doing a ton of grinding or welding but I will be doing it. That's an excellent idea though! I would be willing to take the time to throw a big piece down like that.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Any coating product would need to be shielded from welding if close to the floor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Armorpoxy]

Welding slag can mark or burn any epoxy floor or plastic tile floor, so protection us a good idea, grinding sparks won't affect it.

 

[mustangmatt]

Getting closer on pulling the trigger... How much grinding time would you figure for about 1000 sq ft? also how much time to get it shipped out cause I have been reading that it usually comes on a pallet. And how much time to actually apply it to the concrete? I am putting out poly tonight to do a moisture test!

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi, depends on type of grinder, but figure a day for grinding that much. If you use a primer you could probably get that down first day too. Epoxy the next day, topcoat the day after. This size order is not large enough to ship via motor carrier, it would ship by Fedex Ground from our E Coast warehouses. Thanks!

 

[Garage Flooring]

Keep in mind with grinding too, you need to clean up. If you get your floor wet, you have to allow it to dry. Sounds simple but many people miss this.

 

[mustangmatt]

Bump!!!

I have been working my **** off on my flooring project and have since changed the title to "Mustangmatt's Epoxy Floor Project " as I have decided to go the epoxy route.

I have used an acid type floor cleaner in the larger section of my garage and have powerwashed it twice now. However I am still seeing the "water drip effect" and I dont believe I am getting the floor clean enough. I used a bit stronger dilution on my second go around but it still doesnt seem to have enough bite. I plan on also grinding my floor which may seem a bit over kill but I want it done right as I only get one shot at this.

I am using a ZEP commercial brand floor and concrete cleaner. Any suggestions to get this cleaner or should I use a different product? Or should I just go straight to the grinding? Thanks!

 

[Armorpoxy]

When in doubt...grind...Make sure you use a matched primer to your epoxy as a grinded floor will be porous.

 

[mustangmatt]

When in doubt...grind...Make sure you use a matched primer to your epoxy as a grinded floor will be porous.

Will I need get it where the water doesnt bead before I grind or will the 2 acid applications and powerwashings be ok?

 

[Garage Flooring]

Will I need get it where the water doesnt bead before I grind or will the 2 acid applications and powerwashings be ok?

Grind first. Then see what is left to deal with.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Bump!!!

I have been working my **** off on my flooring project and have since changed the title to "Mustangmatt's Epoxy Floor Project " as I have decided to go the epoxy route.

I have used an acid type floor cleaner in the larger section of my garage and have powerwashed it twice now. However I am still seeing the "water drip effect" and I dont believe I am getting the floor clean enough. I used a bit stronger dilution on my second go around but it still doesnt seem to have enough bite. I plan on also grinding my floor which may seem a bit over kill but I want it done right as I only get one shot at this.

I am using a ZEP commercial brand floor and concrete cleaner. Any suggestions to get this cleaner or should I use a different product? Or should I just go straight to the grinding? Thanks!

Try and rent a diamabrush set-up at THD. Works well.

 

[OJ Bartley]

Nice space Matt, and good luck with the flooring project! With most options the mantra is "preparation is KEY" and epoxy especially so. Glad to see you're doing everything you can to make the floor ready for coating. I know the urge to just go at it will be nagging you, just remember that if you paint over oily spots you're likely to have a poor bond resulting in peeling or bubbles. Get that floor all cleaned up and do it right and you should be happy for a long time.

 

[slickgt1]

Did someone call my name?

 

[mustangmatt]

Grind first. Then see what is left to deal with.

yeah I just seem like i am wasting a bit of time.. Although the floor is much cleaner!

Try and rent a diamabrush set-up at THD. Works well.

I will be renting one either tonight or tomorrow!

Nice space Matt, and good luck with the flooring project! With most options the mantra is "preparation is KEY" and epoxy especially so. Glad to see you're doing everything you can to make the floor ready for coating. I know the urge to just go at it will be nagging you, just remember that if you paint over oily spots you're likely to have a poor bond resulting in peeling or bubbles. Get that floor all cleaned up and do it right and you should be happy for a long time.

Yeah its just freaking me out cause I cant get a few spots to not bead... Back to the drawing board, MORE WORK!!!

Did someone call my name?

Saw your tile install looks beautiful! Great thread for it too!

 

[slickgt1]

Ty. Just surprised more people do go this route. Good luck with the epoxy. And consider primer. A lot of failed epoxy, the vendors state that a primer would have helped.

 

[mustangmatt]

Rented a floor grinder with diamabrush last night. My shop vac isn't keeping up and I'm contemplating buying a new one.. really I need to know if I grinding far enough down or if I should go another pass or two. I went over it twice at quite a slow pace. Please let me know thanks!

 

[mustangmatt]

Ty. Just surprised more people do go this route. Good luck with the epoxy. And consider primer. A lot of failed epoxy, the vendors state that a primer would have helped.

I went all Jurassic park and spared no expense even got the red primer coming!

 

[slickgt1]

I think it should all be pretty uniform color of fresh concrete. Google how to build your own cyclone for the vac. That fine dust is a *****. I'm more of a tile guy. Just saying what I have seen on this forum in the past. So if a pro chimes in and corrects me, listen to them.

 

[mustangmatt]

I think it should all be pretty uniform color of fresh concrete. Google how to build your own cyclone for the vac. That fine dust is a *****. I'm more of a tile guy. Just saying what I have seen on this forum in the past. So if a pro chimes in and corrects me, listen to them.

Ok will check it out...

How long to you have to let the crack filler cure before you can grind it? Or should i just be super careful and just "level it" then add my epoxy? Also should I do one last power washing before I apply after I am done grinding? Thanks!

 

[mustangmatt]

Got the two car side done tonight!!! Well at least I think it is... Take a look at the pics to see if the grinding looks good. I will vacuum the rest before hitting the hay... It's been a lot if hard work but I think it will be worth it!

 

[Grandamn GT]

Looking good Matt. You think you'll need to take anymore off?

 

[mustangmatt]

Looking good Matt. You think you'll need to take anymore off?

Thank you! I stayed up late and put crack filler on all the pock marks, half the garage is covered in it now lol! I figure I am going to do one more final pass to get the filler even with the floor then vacuum one last time. Unfortunately I also have a one car side I haven't even touched lol. I hope the pros chime in and let me know if I have to get more off or not

 

[mustangmatt]

Buehler... Buehler...

 

[Garage Flooring]

Thank you! I stayed up late and put crack filler on all the pock marks, half the garage is covered in it now lol! I figure I am going to do one more final pass to get the filler even with the floor then vacuum one last time. Unfortunately I also have a one car side I haven't even touched lol. I hope the pros chime in and let me know if I have to get more off or not

Looks like nice work. I would wait for Armorpoxy to chime in since you are using their product, but it looks great... Except maybe a couple of spots, at least in the pics.... You can see when you grind it turns 'white' and I am seeing a handful of darker spots. Could be my monitor, or even the concrete itself, just double check it

 

[Armorpoxy]

Seems to look fine from what we can see. Great prep job!

 

[mustangmatt]

Thanks for the replies guys!

Well after busting my hump another night the 2 car side us virtually done. The work the night before was worth it. 95% of all the divots and holes were filled and last night sanded. Fortunately the one car side has no blemishes and will just need a straight grind which I will be doing today. It's raining and I have a bit of water intrusion. The weather stripping needs to be replaced. I'm going to proceed anyway and probably start applying the epoxy tomorrow if it stays dry... I'm also changing out my respiration pads as they are chock full... It's been a lot of hard work and for a bit was wondering if it would be worth it... I think once that first layer of primer goes down I'm going to be as giddy as a school girl lol..

 

[Armorpoxy]

Great progress!

 

[mustangmatt]

thinking after a very long day today I will be doing the fun part tomorrow morning!! Both sides are fully grinded and vacuumed. I will be doing any last minute details and masking stuff off tomorrow and laying down the primer!

 

[mustangmatt]

Houston we have lift off! Starting the two car side soon!

 

[mustangmatt]

Epoxy is ON!!!! Looks great pics do no justice just need to put on the clear! Woot!!! Will write more later !

 

[mustangmatt]

Hey guys, I have waited close to 24 hours... the epoxy seems not stable enough to use spike shoes on like it hasn't hardened enough. when I touch it, it shows a fingerprint but then it dissipates smooth again...should I wait more time to apply the clear or just use regular shoes and apply it anyway?

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi,
We had our office call you today on Sunday to answer all of your questions. Great job!

 

[mustangmatt]

Yeah found I was being uber paranoid armorpoxy emailed me back and called me right away! Great customer service was excellent!!! I am a bit needy as a customer and super over analyze everything the product looks fantastic and I can't wait for 7 days to go by!!!