Evaporust users: really long items?

[DD T/A]

Hey ya'll. Some of the collectors around here have had amazing results with evaporust and I'd like to try it out with some of my cars suspension items like control arms and leaf springs.
I have a few questions:

1) Length--How might you soak a leaf spring in evaporust? Would you not advise I dimply taint the entire 5 gallon batch and stick each end in the brand new container?

2) Reuse--Whether I clean stuff in the entire batch or separate batches, what is the reuse policy on this stuff, how long does it last you?

3) What if I wanted to use this on a bare car frame? Can I just put this in a spray bottle and scrub, or does it need to soak for a long time?


Any general advice on using this stuff would be great. The stuff I use now is Purple Power.

Thank you very much.

 

[d42jeep]

Hey ya'll. Some of the collectors around here have had amazing results with evaporust and I'd like to try it out with some of my cars suspension items like control arms and leaf springs.
I have a few questions:

1) Length--How might you soak a leaf spring in evaporust? Would you not advise I dimply taint the entire 5 gallon batch and stick each end in the brand new container?

2) Reuse--Whether I clean stuff in the entire batch or separate batches, what is the reuse policy on this stuff, how long does it last you?

3) What if I wanted to use this on a bare car frame? Can I just put this in a spray bottle and scrub, or does it need to soak for a long time?


Any general advice on using this stuff would be great. The stuff I use now is Purple Power.

Thank you very much.

I’ve mostly been using it on pretty small hand tools and it seems to need to soak overnight. If I get a piece that is too long for my small container, I’ve had some luck wrapping a saturated paper towel around the part of the item that is sticking out. GJ member Shiftless has a container large enough to put a vise in but the product is fairly expensive. I think it depends on how much you use it but it becomes less and less effective as time goes on. I’ve heard that other users replace it after six months use.
-Don

 

[snapmom]

I use PCV pipes with caps. have a 2" and 4".

 

[PFSard]

I use Snapmom's method with the PVC pipes, but I saw this a few months ago. I have yet to try it.

Evapo-Rust® Gel
https://evapo-rust.com/evapo-rust-gel/

 

[Modern Garage]

I pour it into whatever container fits the item I'm treating and cover it to prevent evaporation, then pour it back into the original jug when I'm through eight, twelve, thirty hours later. (Whatever it takes.) The product lasts until it doesn't work anymore - that is, until it's chemical action is used up. 'Pends how much you use it.
The Evaporust instructions tell you for pieces too big to immerse you can cover them with paper or cloth towels soaked in ER then cover with plastic to prevent evaporation. They're pretty adamant about preventing premature drying. Apparently it causes an undesirable surface coating? Don't know, never done it.
Joe

 

[DD T/A]

OK, thank you all for your comments.

I am going to have to get creative with this, or just deal with painting over a little rust.

 

[JoCoSawdust]

Dang, why didn't I think of PVC pipe? Great idea and I'll give it a try. One thing I'd caution about wrapping anything with a soaked paper towel is to make sure you've got 100 percent contact with the item you're cleaning. If not, it'll leave a pattern on the metal you're treating (hard lesson learned). I filter used ER through a paint strainer and keep reusing it till it doesn't work anymore.

An alternative you might want to try is electrolysis. Get a cheap plastic kiddie pool from WallyWorld, a battery charger, piece of rebar and some washing soda and you've got a way to de-rust an item with size only limited by the container of water you have.

https://htpaa.org.au/resources/rust-removal

 

[4xdog]

I use the stuff almost daily on all kinds of things, mostly smaller than a shoebox. I like Evapo-Rust a lot.

The chemical activity of Evapo-Rust is, in my best guess as one who’s worked around chemistry and coatings for decades, is based on its redox potential, for reduction-oxidation, where reduction is a chemical term for a reaction that adds electrons to a chemical (the opposite of oxidation, the loss of electrons). It gets exhausted depending on how hard it’s worked. You’ll know because the normally light amber solution has turned dark with what I believe is reduced iron. The ratio of Evapo-Rust volume to part size makes a difference, as does rhe amount of rust on the part. I get nowhere near six months of use, but I keep volumes small and pitch the Evapo-Rust when it stops working. This keeps my larger quantity “cleaner” for longer.

I’ve tried to treat larger parts by keeping them wet. My result have been poor and I don’t recommend it. Evapo-rust works better when parts are submerged.

Note that if the part is partially submerged a line will form at the air/Evapo-Rust interface that will stain the metal. OK if its being painted, but possibly a problem if it’s bare metal.

Something like leaf springs would bever be a candidate for Evapo-Rust, IMO. I’d simply wire brush or wire wheel them, or possibly abrasive blast them. I’d never consider a frame for the same reasons.

 

[dcummer]

Here's something I tried on a vise body. I had nowhere near enough Evaporust, so I placed the vise body into a (totally watertight) poly bag and suspended the bag/vise in a 5 gallon pail of water. The pressure of the water makes the poly bag conform to the object inside, so now it takes much less Evaporust to submerge your item. Results were great, just as you'd expect from Evaporust.

This isn't going to help with your leaf spring, I'm a fan of electrolysis derusting for something like that.

 

[59 wagon man]

used a little kids blowup pool to do some rims and brackets

 

[thehorse13]

PVC pipes with end caps works perfecly. 6 dollar kiddy pools you find at Walmart also work fine but take a lot of product to fill half way. I've used both of these methods with success.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

I use a plastic storage bin with locking handles on the ends. I still only use 1 gallon at a time. I prop it up on a long corner for long things, short corner for short things. If I have something that won't totally immerse, I flip the item over a few times. I pour it back into the original container through a strainer after each use.

 

[Shiftless]

Here's something I tried on a vise body. I had nowhere near enough Evaporust, so I placed the vise body into a (totally watertight) poly bag and suspended the bag/vise in a 5 gallon pail of water. The pressure of the water makes the poly bag conform to the object inside, so now it takes much less Evaporust to submerge your item. Results were great, just as you'd expect from Evaporust.

This isn't going to help with your leaf spring, I'm a fan of electrolysis derusting for something like that.

That is the best suggestion for the larger tool items. The sealed plastic bag submerged in water is an EXCELLENT tip.
The pvc pipe idea is great as well. But I would glue the cap on one end or at least secure it with duct tape and leave the other end open and keep the pipe secured upright or angled at least. You don’t want the Evaporust to leak out all over your floor.

I use the stuff a lot for rescuing old tools. Usually an overnight soak. I have a variety of different size and shape plastic bins stacked up in the garage to choose from. You can get by with less Evaporust by putting a solid object or two into the bin. I often use a can of paint to displace volume and raise the level of Evaporust in the container.

As 4xdog said earlier, be careful about dunking half of an object at a time. The surface of the Evaporust will leave a line which won’t disappear after you turn it over and dunk the other half the next session. If you’re painting, no problem but if you want bare steel, that line will show as a discoloration.

Your object will come out black with carbon as a result of the chemical reaction. In my experience, that is easily removed with gentle wire brushing under running water. Of course, make sure to dry the object right away with compressed air, a heat gun, a quick shot with a propane torch, whatever works for you. And then either primer paint, boiled linseed oil, fluid film or anything else to prevent flash rusting.

Here are before and after shots of something I rescued last night. Somebody lost this pair of loppers. They laid around partially buried in the dirt under a tree or something like that for at least a year.
I soaked this tool for about 6 hours leaning against a wall upside down in a 2 quart plastic freezer container. Evaporust gets to the rust in between moving parts so complete disassembly is unnecessary. These loppers now work like new. (I sharpened, adjusted and lubed of course) With more time and effort, these would LOOK better but these guys are going back to work.

(BTW, Evaporust won’t work below about 55 degrees...warm it up a bit and it speeds the reaction)
.
.
.

 

[DadsTools]

Here's something I tried on a vise body. I had nowhere near enough Evaporust, so I placed the vise body into a (totally watertight) poly bag and suspended the bag/vise in a 5 gallon pail of water. The pressure of the water makes the poly bag conform to the object inside, so now it takes much less Evaporust to submerge your item. Results were great, just as you'd expect from Evaporust.

This isn't going to help with your leaf spring, I'm a fan of electrolysis derusting for something like that.

Very clever!

 

[DadsTools]

I use a plastic storage bin with locking handles on the ends. I still only use 1 gallon at a time. I prop it up on a long corner for long things, short corner for short things. If I have something that won't totally immerse, I flip the item over a few times. I pour it back into the original container through a strainer after each use.

Just had to do this same method with a large 24.5" Proto 1-11/16" x 1-5/8" DBE. Only way I could get it submerged in a long enough tub. Worked!

 

[rsanter]

I used second hand plywood and some pieces of 2x4 and made a long thin box. Only did the sides did not even do the bottom.
Then I laid in plastic and stapled it around the top, running the plastic up and over the lip.
I folded the corners neat to fit clean like you might do with the ends on wrapping paper.
Set the thing on my cart and put the item in then poured in the evaporust till it covered the item.
Covered with plastic to minimize avaporation.

When done I poured the evaporust back into the 5 gal bucket I. Keep it in.
(5 gal bucket fits parts well and let’s me seal the top to avoid evaporation)

Bob

 

[Stuart in MN]

I used second hand plywood and some pieces of 2x4 and made a long thin box. Only did the sides did not even do the bottom.
Then I laid in plastic and stapled it around the top, running the plastic up and over the lip.

Exactly what I was going to suggest.

 

[jeepinerdeep]

You can soak a rag with it, lay it on top or wrap it around funny shaped stuff.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Just had to do this same method with a large 24.5" Proto 1-11/16" x 1-5/8" DBE. Only way I could get it submerged in a long enough tub. Worked!

 

[DD T/A]

Here's something I tried on a vise body. I had nowhere near enough Evaporust, so I placed the vise body into a (totally watertight) poly bag and suspended the bag/vise in a 5 gallon pail of water. The pressure of the water makes the poly bag conform to the object inside, so now it takes much less Evaporust to submerge your item. Results were great, just as you'd expect from Evaporust.

This isn't going to help with your leaf spring, I'm a fan of electrolysis derusting for something like that.

That is for sure a very cool and creative idea!

used a little kids blowup pool to do some rims and brackets

Yeah, I really think that's how I'm going to have to do the big parts.



Great discussion and ideas everyone. Thanks again.

 

[Shiftless]

You can soak a rag with it, lay it on top or wrap it around funny shaped stuff.

I know they say that on their website, but have any of you guys used that technique and had success with heavy rust?

 

[Jerriffic]

I had luck using a leftover wallpaper tray.

 

[Shiftless]

For a really long item you might be able to dig a shallow trench somewhere on your property, line it with 6 mil visqueen, and fill it with Evaporust.

A friend of mine used this technique to soak individual fence boards in wood preservative stain prior to screwing them onto the frame. Overkill?? Maybe...but that fence stayed great looking for many years.

 

[humber2]

Here's something I tried on a vise body. I had nowhere near enough Evaporust, so I placed the vise body into a (totally watertight) poly bag and suspended the bag/vise in a 5 gallon pail of water. The pressure of the water makes the poly bag conform to the object inside, so now it takes much less Evaporust to submerge your item. Results were great, just as you'd expect from Evaporust.

I can see an engine block in a strong poly bag hanging from an engine lifter being dunked into a swimming pool.

 

[dcummer]

I can see an engine block in a strong poly bag hanging from an engine lifter being dunked into a swimming pool.

Thanks for that awesome image - priceless! That's what I love about this place and you guys - you always think big, scaling up good ideas into great ideas!

 

[6PTsocket]

Hey ya'll. Some of the collectors around here have had amazing results with evaporust and I'd like to try it out with some of my cars suspension items like control arms and leaf springs.

I have a few questions:



1) Length--How might you soak a leaf spring in evaporust? Would you not advise I dimply taint the entire 5 gallon batch and stick each end in the brand new container?



2) Reuse--Whether I clean stuff in the entire batch or separate batches, what is the reuse policy on this stuff, how long does it last you?



3) What if I wanted to use this on a bare car frame? Can I just put this in a spray bottle and scrub, or does it need to soak for a long time?





Any general advice on using this stuff would be great. The stuff I use now is Purple Power.



Thank you very much.

Evaporust is water based and is best contained as much as possible to prevent evaporation. If you can't submerge the item, wrap it in soaked rags and cover with plastic wrap. If it is in a tub, keep it covered. As far as reuse, that depends on how rusty the items are and how big they are. There is no simple answer. Just reuse it until it doesn't work any more. It is almost never a one and done. That would have to be some chunk of rust. I periodically pull the item out and brush off the loose rust to help it along.


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[Stuart in MN]

I periodically pull the item out and brush off the loose rust to help it along.

Yup, I'm doing exactly that today...if the rust isn't gone the first time you pull an item out of the soup, scrub off what you can and put it back in for a while longer.

 

[bmwrd0]

If you are evaporusting large irregularly shaped items, fill the rest of the tub with marbles to take up space. Haven't done it, but that is what was recommended to me.

 

[tym]

I know they say that on their website, but have any of you guys used that technique and had success with heavy rust?

I've done that with vinegar, then hit the object with a wire wheel on a drill. Did a pretty good job after only soaking a couple of hours, so I imagine you could do the same with ER.

I know this isn't quite what the OP asked, but since white vinegar is dirt cheap, could that be used for submerging a large object like a leaf spring?

 

[6PTsocket]

Feed grade molasses diluted 10:1 is also popular for big items but sloooow. Evaporust cost can be prohibitive in large quantities

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