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Everything Fiberglass Thread

RivennHewn

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I did a quick search, and didn’t come up with anything specifically regarding fiberglass work/repair.

Is there a thread I missed?

I haven’t done any glass work since I was in college, and that was a long time ago.

I now have a project, and would love to hear from the GJ community on the latest products and techniques.

Any “Wrap your *** in fiberglass “ guys here?
 

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PCustoms

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Built a few boats and may have some carbon fiber orbiting the earth. What do you want to know?
 
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RivennHewn

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Exterior gel coat looks ok(pictured with hull cleaner on it).

I’d like to seal up/reinforce the floors from the inside, then seal and epoxy paint the whole boat.

What glass weave and weight to use? Whose products to use? Good supplier?

Laminating resin, or epoxy? Any benefit to carbon/Kevlar?

I’m thinking of soda blasting the areas that need work to get clean surfaces.
 
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Colin HD

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He is mine, based on a 1971 VW Beetle floorpan.
Buck made from timber frame and shaped out with plaster/vermiculite mix.
Four layers of glass, turn over & remove all the plaster/timber/etc.
 

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RivennHewn

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He is mine, based on a 1971 VW Beetle floorpan.
Buck made from timber frame and shaped out with plaster/vermiculite mix.
Four layers of glass, turn over & remove all the plaster/timber/etc.



Love it!

Turned out great.

Looks like a fun project too.

Post up more pics please.
 

Colin HD

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Oh go on then!!!
 

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RivennHewn

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Love the 2nd pic, with the fence and the big blue sky.

I’d hang that on my wall!
 

canbug

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I have a question for you fiberglass guys, I have an old Boler trailer that's all fiberglass and the door has lost it's bend on the bottom half over the years. is this repairable or do I need a new door?

Thanks.
 

drivesitfar

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Riv: You can have a huge roll of fiberglass I own if I can find it, but I think its in my storage unit within reach. it's about a foot wide and maybe a couple hundred feet cause it's not a small roll. not sure when our paths will cross, but if we try I bet it could be soon.

as the movie line goes "you're gonna need a bigger boat" now that you live on the sound.

good luck
 

Bopbop

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Rivennhewn, search for the website Bateau.com. This is a Florida based companies website that sales boat plans and materials to build and repair boat hulls. They have a really good forum on building and repairing the hull. Also Microskiff is another Florida based site with a good forum.
I spent over 5 to 10 years in high school and college working for an industrial fiberglass fabrication company. A lot has changed in the last 35 years.
 
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RivennHewn

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Riv: You can have a huge roll of fiberglass I own if I can find it, but I think its in my storage unit within reach. it's about a foot wide and maybe a couple hundred feet cause it's not a small roll. not sure when our paths will cross, but if we try I bet it could be soon.

as the movie line goes "you're gonna need a bigger boat" now that you live on the sound.

good luck


I’ve got the bigger boat, the new one is just for cruising the channel down to LaConner for an afternoon beer or maybe dinner!
 

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drivesitfar

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RIV: rowing to and from dinner sounds like a healthy way to go!!

I don't know one boat owner that didn't want a bigger boat and I think I knew you had one cause you mentioned fishing in Lake Washington a few times. that said I still like that line in Jaws and once you have your new home paid off I'm betting you'll be looking for or you'll own a bigger boat.

my huge roll of fiberglass might be several years old, but isn't he epoxy or glue the main thing that needs to be new. anyway it's yours if we can figure out how to meet up and if you'd like it.

waterfront and a nice shop sounds like a dream home to me!!

cheers
 
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RivennHewn

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Bigger boats come with bigger maintenance and fuel bills.

I actually know quite a few that were happier after they downsized.

I guess the key is to know what size fits your lifestyle and budget.

I found the perfect rub rail removal tool. 90% of the screws we’re corroded and broke off.

A quick hit with the little grinder got the heads removed, without damaging the aluminum rail.
 

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drivesitfar

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RIV: I hear you on the BIGGER BOAT and while I totally agree you are satisfied now I bet you'll have your will tested when others with big boats offer them to you for a great deal in the future.

BOAT stands for Bring Out Another Thousand and I heard that if it's over 30 foot long it should be BOATT to add Ten before Thousand.

I like the little dingy and taking it to pizza and a few beers sounds like a fun time.

good luck with the repairs while you're spiffing up your new garage and home too.
 
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RivennHewn

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Been doing a little research, and picking up a few things.

Need some better weather before I drag the skiff outside for the grinding and blasting.

I ain’t gonna get that **** all over my shop,
 

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RivennHewn

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Still waiting on some decent weather. This January has been a wet one!

Still accumulating supplies. I had no idea what I was getting myself into, but really looking forward to jumping in on this project.

Found a great series on YouTube: www.BoatworksToday.com
 

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theoldwizard1

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The big controversy in 'glass is epoxy vs polyester. Down side to epoxy is that once it cures, it leaves a "blush" that must be removed before addition 'glassing can be done. Some people use "peel ply", a sacrificial final layer (before curing) that is easily pulled off with the blush.
 
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RivennHewn

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Blushing is a result of moisture content/humidity.

It can be a pain to remove, as it’s adding water to the project that you’re trying to keep dry.

A few weeks in a warm dry shop is helping with the moisture content of the wood components, but it’s got a ways to go before I’ll feel confident to proceed.
 

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nextlevelfab

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Oh go on then!!!

Ed Roth Lives again!
You just inspired me to tackle this old tv car prop I got(mantis)....ya I'll put it on a VW pan.
mantis.jpg
 
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ncboat

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If you are going to do this you will need to get familiar with grnder/ sanders.
All repairs need to be glass to glass and you start with mat not cloth. In looking
at the dock rash photo the cap rail looks really rough like it was hand done not
out of a mold. Is the boat painted and were repairs made there? To repair that
after rub rail removal it is ground out to a gradual bevel and then small pieces
of mat individually saturated with resin and the air rolled out. Fiberglass is a
great product readily repairable. The person who taught me was known for
custom boats and hurricane damage to large yachts. Look at Jamestown for
supplies but you should have plenty of local suppliers being where you are.
I would also suggest fresh glass to eliminate any chance of it having
gotten wet.
 
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RivennHewn

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If you are going to do this you will need to get familiar with grnder/ sanders.
All repairs need to be glass to glass and you start with mat not cloth. In looking
at the dock rash photo the cap rail looks really rough like it was hand done not
out of a mold. Is the boat painted and were repairs made there? To repair that
after rub rail removal it is ground out to a gradual bevel and then small pieces
of mat individually saturated with resin and the air rolled out. Fiberglass is a
great product readily repairable. The person who taught me was known for
custom boats and hurricane damage to large yachts. Look at Jamestown for
supplies but you should have plenty of local suppliers being where you are.
I would also suggest fresh glass to eliminate any chance of it having
gotten wet.


Thank you for taking the time to respond.

I don’t know much about fiberglass work, but I’m jumping in.

Post like this help people like me gain a better understanding.

Feel free to add more anytime.


One thing I like about this 1961 boat is that the finish is not up to current glass/gel coat standards.

This is from a previous era, where fit and finish were not what they are today.

I’ll be going out of my way to retain that look.
 
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nextlevelfab

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Thank you for taking the time to respond.

I don’t know much about fiberglass work, but I’m jumping in.

Post like this help people like me gain a better understanding.

Feel free to add more anytime.


One thing I like about this 1961 boat is that the finish is not up to current glass/gel coat standards.

This is from a previous era, where fit and finish were not what they are today.

I’ll be going out of my way to retain that look.

I know a fair bit about 'glass myself..30 yrs worth., so wth I'll post some pics of the mantis molds, material layup tools etc..also applies to boats altho I dont use epoxy on props. One thing about fiberglass and you'll find out right away once you grind it ..if your impervious to it or not..ie if it makes you ITCH like hell or doesnt bother you. And grinding 'glass you need rough discs..ie 16-24 grit, 36 is so so but will wear down fast. Wear face mask, dust masks or respirators etc etc
 

Colin HD

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That’s definitely going to warrant it’s own thread!
Cheers Guys,
Its my tribute to Ed Roth's - Road Agent
Named Agent Thor (Anagram of Roth)

Great fun to build and a blast to drive.
 

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RivennHewn

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Well, that’s not good.
 

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RivennHewn

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But it’s better than this!!!!
 

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Skiff Builder

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Still waiting on some decent weather. This January has been a wet one!

Still accumulating supplies. I had no idea what I was getting myself into, but really looking forward to jumping in on this project.

Found a great series on YouTube: www.BoatworksToday.com

I like getting all the sundries together that go along with this work. I use an empty gallon paint can with a quart of solvent in it. Quick wipe of sticky tools and brushes with newspaper, than into the can,lid on top.Use over and over.

Metal putty/spackle knives work too. Let the googe dry on them, than hit with torch to clean quickly.

Having the hull on a rolling jig or trailer lets you move it out for the dirty work and back in shop for glassing.

Think about a low speed 120v body grinder with soft pad and very coarse grit paper. I call it my "wood eraser". Also a 4" grinder with flap disk.

Oh , and don't let the Wx stop you- thats why they call it wet sanding!

Pics of Body grinder and rolling jig, partial epoxy station in action below.

Enjoy the refit.
 

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RivennHewn

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Skiff,

Took me awhile, but I got through your threads.

Impressive work!


Thanks for your input.
 
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RivennHewn

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Who knew that a hair dryer could be the best tool for the job?
 

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ez-duzit

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Blushing is a result of moisture content/humidity.

It can be a pain to remove, as it’s adding water to the project that you’re trying to keep dry...

No, it isn't.

Amine blush is not moisture, but is a byproduct of some epoxies (like WEST) and is easily removed by cleaning with water and a Scotchbrite pad.
 
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RivennHewn

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RivennHewn

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RH--you said it was a pain to remove--it isn't--it just wipes off with plain water.

EZ,
Thanks for taking the time to add to this thread.

The pain I was referring to was washing something that you’re trying to keep dry.

When adding layers of glass, you don’t always seal everything up with the 1st coat.
Washing between layers could mean that uncoated surfaces can get wet, starting the drying process over again.
 
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RivennHewn

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EZ,

Would love to see some of your projects.

Post up a few pics when you can
 

ez-duzit

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When working with epoxy it is possible, ordinary even, to apply coat upon coat prior to full cure, thus eliminating much of the need to remove the amine blush, which only appears after cure.

For example, when laying up fiberglass, the glass is saturated, squeegee'd and rolled. Before that cures more epoxy mix can be added to fill the weave of the fabric or texture of the non-woven, waiting only long enough for the initial batch to begin to kick. Or more layers of glass can also be added before previous layers cure enough for the blush to appear.
 
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