Everything For Changing Car Batteries

[joetech]

We change a lot of car batteries at work. I'm getting tired of the poor methods we're using.

Currently I'm using the wire brush two ended all in one tool but of course it's too tight for the positive terminal and too loose for the negative terminal, and it won't clean cables after it's done about four batteries.

I also put dielectric grease on the battery posts, clamp them down and then spray on battery protectant on everything.

Some cars have the newfangled wedge style clamp- I've seen them completely disassembled and greased up and that's awesome but I don't have time to do that.

I found a battery terminal spreader pliers via another post on here as well as the m12 port with the cig lighter, combine with a memory saver in a very compact package. I don't think the pliers are worth bothering with though.

I know of several different battery terminal cleaning tools, which one would you recommend using in a professional mechanic shop?

I like this one, have seen it in several different designs, but the commonality is that there is no wire brushes in it.
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...ing-tool/lynx-battery-cleaning-tool/96001_0_0

Thank you for your thoughts and feedback on the best way to change out car batteries.

 

[toolenthusiast]

Why oh why would you put dielectric grease between the posts and terminals?

 

[rustyzman]

I always personally used the wire brush types. I have the style that you linked to and others like it but I found that they tend to shear a lot of lead off the posts and can take off enough to stop some cable clamps from actually clamping tightly. Plus the end for the ID of the cable tends to not clean well all that well and takes off way too much material. A brush is really the best way.

That being said, the cheap double ended ones have terrible cable ID brushes soooo,

For inside the cable ends I use the copper tubing wire brushes you can get at any hardware store. 1/2" size for one cable and 3/4" for the other. The copper tubing combo units that have the ID and OD brushes work well too, if you have enough room to use them.

We would usually use spray terminal sealer on them after assembly. I found on gassy batteries (some brands had more corrosion issues than others) that just using sil-glyde on the outside worked very well. Cleanup on the next replacement was a little messier, but not too bad because there was little to no corrosion.

I never put anything between the clamp and post, you need maximum electrical conductivity in the starting circuit. I never add anything that could create an additional voltage drop across either the power or ground circuit.

Terminal spreaders are a must have for me, some clamps just need to be opened up to fit on to a new battery. You can make do without them, but usually you will end up boogering up the clamp a bit. For the money, I would get some.

As for backup power, I always use a spare battery or a jumper pack hooked directly up to a positive power terminal in either the underhood fuse box or at a junction point, wherever it may be.

I don't use cigarette lighter backup for two reasons: First is that a lot of cigarette lighter circuits are only live with the Key On, and I don't change batteries Key On. Second, about 1/3 to 1/2 of the cars I have serviced over all the years have a blown fuse for the cigarette lighter circuit, so even if it should be live Key Off, it won't work. Most times the customer never realized it was blown either.

You only need to have one radio lock out, or one aftermarket alarm system freak out that you can't shut off/can't start the car, to stop using that method. Not to mention the accidental reset of all the learned parameters in all the modules that now have to relearn.

And I use stalube moly grease or anti seize on all hold down hardware on every change. Just makes the job for the next guy a bit easier. Never know, you might be the next guy anyway!

That is my method changing batteries as a tech for well over 20 years. Has not failed me.

And just to cover yourself, make sure the new battery is not dead before you put it in and disconnect your backup. Makes for a bad day too (it happens!).

Hope this helps.

 

[Slinger646]

All battery brushes are consumable, no matter what type. It’s just a matter of getting the most bang for your buck.

I would also invest in a scissors style battery carrier; makes removing some easier and carrying them from your workspace to wherever so much easier.

 

[rustyzman]

All battery brushes are consumable, no matter what type. It’s just a matter of getting the most bang for your buck.

I would also invest in a scissors style battery carrier; makes removing some easier and carrying them from your workspace to wherever so much easier.

Absolutely. That is a great addition too.

 

[joetech]

Just researched it. Didn't realize that it wasn't exactly conductive. Figured it helps prevent corrosion between posts/terminals.

 

[ddawg16]

I use a knife to clean the clamp end. It's lead....it's soft.

For the bat terminals? A regular wire brush. If there is a bunch of acid crud on the terminals....a little baking soda and water....all done.

 

[joetech]

Thank you Rusty for your input. It is much appreciated. I wasn't sure about the pliers but sounds like they're worth getting. And that is a great idea about the plumbing brushes- I will have to pick a couple of those up. That would pretty much solve all my issues.

There is a scissors type battery carrier already at the shop so I've got that covered. Might get one for myself but it does live in the middle of the shop so it's not too far for me to go to get it.

Thank you for your input.

 

[rustyzman]

My pleasure, I hope it helps.

The pliers can be had on ebay cheap, garage sales or probably even at Harbor Freight. They are not a high stress item so even the cheap ones work fine. You would think that all battery terminals would be a standard size, but I'll be darned if they don't all seem to be a bit different.

Nothing quite like that metallic taste in your mouth after cleaning a nasty terminal Eh?!

 

[joetech]

My pleasure, I hope it helps.

The pliers can be had on ebay cheap, garage sales or probably even at Harbor Freight. They are not a high stress item so even the cheap ones work fine. You would think that all battery terminals would be a standard size, but I'll be darned if they don't all seem to be a bit different.

Nothing quite like that metallic taste in your mouth after cleaning a nasty terminal Eh?!

Or learning the hard way that it's a bad idea to clean battery terminals with a rotary tool......

 

[rustyzman]

Indeed!

 

[mtnkrake]

For terminal spreaders get deka 00255 they are solid and won't break. The pliers with riveted on handles break too easy.

Sent from my SM-T700 using Tapatalk

 

[rustyzman]

Those look good, excellent price as well.

 

[unslow1]

I use this battery memory saver. It gets down to about $30 at times. It has lights to indicate connections to battery and jump pack.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CH59OAS/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Ign]

Yeah used this the other night. Psyched to just use a platform where I've already got 2 dozen M12 batteries in the shop

Obviously, pre-96 is outta luck

 

[CJM8515]

Battery pliers are a must have when you get some pos old ford or chrysler cars with the heavy lead terminals that once had what resembled a nut and bolt on it. neither 1/2 nor 13m, nor 12mm...


The spreader is also invaluable for the same terminals. The best battery carrier is a scissor type sold by napa, IDK the model but its large and red and works well on almost every battery

 

[cowboy73]

I have a Matco battery terminal puller I use. Bought it at the flee market for $2.

View media item 28590
Old Blue Bird battery terminal spreader/cleaner. I think I gave $1 for it.

View media item 28589
And to clean battery terminals, a cheap wire brush combo thingy in the silver metal. I also have Atlas branded set of battery pliers, I only gave a couple of bucks for them.

 

[M6erfan]

Battery pliers are a must have when you get some pos old ford or chrysler cars with the heavy lead terminals that once had what resembled a nut and bolt on it. neither 1/2 nor 13m, nor 12mm...

I just went through this. Needed to replace the neg. battery terminal on my BIL's truck, none of the wrench sizes fit. Finally busted out the 7" cobras.

 

[plinker]

One thing I've found that works better then battery terminal protector is actually gasket tack in a spray can (Loctite 37555 or Permatex 80065). It goes on heavier and lasts longer. We'd also use it in semi trailer junction boxes and on buss bars where snow/salt & water would be an issue.

CRC 05046 terminal cleaner works good, kinda messy as it foams though (rinse with water then blow dry). Heavy corrosion may take a couple times to clean off but if it's bad enough scraping/brushing is the best bet.

I also buy several of those stainless toothbrush style brushes for terminal cleaning.

 

[Ign]

Hmm I just cleaned the terminals on both batts of an '02 CTD. I just wetted, poured baking soda on, wetted again, let sit, scrubbed w wire brush and rinsed off.

A little Arm & Hammer in the shop never a bad thing (shrug)

 

[TomB19]

Great thread!

https://www.campingworld.com/battery-terminal-protector-spray-75-oz

 

[johninct]

I have an old Snap-On set I bought used 25 years ago...GM side post wrench, terminal puller, post spreading pliers and battery nut pliers (I never used them yet). I use a plumbing wire brush , plumbing pipe wire brush, mini wire brush and side terminal wire brush to scuff things up.

 

[kblee27]

I change batteries very often, for customers out in the field.

For cleaning corroded battery terminal, I'd use plain water in a pressurized hand sprayer, set to a jet. You might be amazed what that small jet can do.
For coating the terminals, I'd use Fluid Film.

My biggest challenge has always been the memory backup.
If you try to hook the spare battery at the terminals, there's always a chance that it will slip loose or you knock it out while lifting the battery. Then it's all for nothing.

And you have to be careful the positive wire don't swing around, once out of the battery, and hit the chassis or metal piece and short the battery. An insulation wrap around that terminal would be helpful.

If the car has jumper points, that would be easier, just hook up the spare battery there, away from where you're working the car battery.

For most cars, I plug in a spare battery at the DC socket. However, you must take care many cars needed to turn on the ignition to get an electrical connection. Then many devices are running, sometimes dashboard lights, daytime running lights that can't be turned off.

And when you pull the main battery out, all the supply is going through the DC socket, sometimes blowing the fuse. And then you have another problem of fixing that fuse.

 

[joetech]

Yeah used this the other night. Psyched to just use a platform where I've already got 2 dozen M12 batteries in the shop

Obviously, pre-96 is outta luck

thank you for posting that

just ordered one for myself.

Been looking around for EXACTLY that and didn't know how to do it. Milwaukee has discontinued the obvious solution with the cig lighter and didn't know how else to do it.

M12 battery for memory saver is the obvious solution for me as the jump pack lives on the other side of the shop and I already have 2 m12 batteries I use every day. I could buy a jump pack but I'd rather stick with my (known) platform.

 

[joetech]

thank you to everyone for contributing to this thread. As for myself I bought terminal spreading pliers, terminal puller, and the memory backup I just mentioned in the previous post. For $75ish I think I've got most everything battery related covered. I don't want to duplicate tools as I already have a Gearwrench 8mm so don't think I need a side post battery wrench.

I will also pick up some copper pipe wire brushes for the terminals as well. I found a real nice conical wire brush online that would be great but I don't want to spend $6.99 on what is essentially a consumable.

 

[Ign]

thank you for posting that

just ordered one for myself.

Been looking around for EXACTLY that and didn't know how to do it. Milwaukee has discontinued the obvious solution with the cig lighter and didn't know how else to do it.

M12 battery for memory saver is the obvious solution for me as the jump pack lives on the other side of the shop and I already have 2 m12 batteries I use every day. I could buy a jump pack but I'd rather stick with my (known) platform.

Yeah I got the Weego thing off eBay for stupid cheap.

It won't light up 'til both ends are connected, one to the barrel connector and one to OBD-II port

The old heated gear holsters which did not charge and had no fuel gauge can also be had really cheap secondary market

 

[WittHay]

I find the Blue-Point BTC3A terminal brush works the best. Also have a Mac BR6 reshaper. The Snap-on 208CCP battery pliers work good , KD/Gearwrench 202 puller that is comparable to the Snap-on version, Mac BCS720 terminal spreader

For GM batteries there is the special wrenches and terminal cleaners. Also have a cleaner/brush for Group 31 truck batteries.

 

[mrobins297aaa]

I didn't read all the post but for cleaning the cable end a battery operated dremel with a round sanding disk cleans them up really fast

 

[FSrepair&fabrication]

For cleaning I use a brass wire wheel in a drill or die grinder. As far as terminals, if they are so tight they have to be spread and may get messed up, its getting new terminals. That said, most of what I do has group 31 batteries with 3/8 threaded posts, so no terminals per se, just crimp new ring ends on the cables. To save memory, All thats needed is a set of test leads hooked from a spare battery to the main stud in the underhood fuse box. But again, most of what I do has 2-4 batteries so I just change one at a time and theres no memory loss.

 

[ex-x-fire]

I use one of these slotted mandrels, a roll of sand paper, and a die grinder to clean battery connections. Works great.

 

[pepi]

Funny stuff.......... 2 tools one to remove the hold down, and one to remove the terminals.

Should take care of things very nicely. Then I remember picture of drawers full of screw drivers or pliers.

So I recommed you buy every battery related tool pictured.

 

[Ign]

I find the Blue-Point BTC3A terminal brush works the best. Also have a Mac BR6 reshaper. The Snap-on 208CCP battery pliers work good , KD/Gearwrench 202 puller that is comparable to the Snap-on version, Mac BCS720 terminal spreader

For GM batteries there is the special wrenches and terminal cleaners. Also have a cleaner/brush for Group 31 truck batteries.

Ok so is the BP brush a bit less of a consumable than the cheapies? It looks like it. If so I'm all in!

 

[bonneyman]

I've posted my Blue Bird battery tools before, but this thread seems a good a place as any.
The post cleaner is made of spring steel which is tapered and thus maintains the taper of the post while it cleans. The spreader pliers are worth the price of admission by themselves.

For corrosion reduction I use plastilube gun grease on the terminals/clamps, and use kerosene to remove it. Not too messy, low odor, low explosive potential. And cheap!

 

[WittHay]

Ok so is the BP brush a bit less of a consumable than the cheapies? It looks like it. If so I'm all in!

It does last longer than the cheap auto parts store type. using this type for years.

I work on a lot of diesel stuff with multiple 6 volt batteries and vehicles that have long cables with lead terminal ends with wires attached to them. Expensive to replace. Proper tools help.

To the OP, working on modern cars pick the tools that will help speed up your job.

 

[Ign]

I find the Blue-Point BTC3A terminal brush works the best. Also have a Mac BR6 reshaper. The Snap-on 208CCP battery pliers work good , KD/Gearwrench 202 puller that is comparable to the Snap-on version, Mac BCS720 terminal spreader

For GM batteries there is the special wrenches and terminal cleaners. Also have a cleaner/brush for Group 31 truck batteries.

Thank you again. If anyone cares the 208CCP's are only $32.75 on Snappy's site & of course they ship most anything free. There are sets on eBay going for more after shipping LOL

The Bluepoint brush is $17.20 but if it lasts awhile it's worth it. I ordered both the pliers and the brush.

 

[joetech]

To the OP, working on modern cars pick the tools that will help speed up your job.

That's exactly what I did.

I am pissed off that a battery change that books about 15 minutes max is taking 30 to 45 minutes due to all the issues. That's why I started this thread, didn't find much relevant in other threads here on GJ. I'm pleased with all the replies, and it is very interesting to see how everyone else handles things.

For those of you using rotary tools do you have any problems with the dust in the air? I tried that once with a wire wheel and it's not an experience I care to repeat, got the acid powder airborne.

 

[joetech]

I find the Blue-Point BTC3A terminal brush works the best. Also have a Mac BR6 reshaper. The Snap-on 208CCP battery pliers work good , KD/Gearwrench 202 puller that is comparable to the Snap-on version, Mac BCS720 terminal spreader

For GM batteries there is the special wrenches and terminal cleaners. Also have a cleaner/brush for Group 31 truck batteries.

Excellent post. Thank you.

 

[Ign]

That's exactly what I did.

I am pissed off that a battery change that books about 15 minutes max is taking 30 to 45 minutes due to all the issues. That's why I started this thread, didn't find much relevant in other threads here on GJ. I'm pleased with all the replies, and it is very interesting to see how everyone else handles things.

For those of you using rotary tools do you have any problems with the dust in the air? I tried that once with a wire wheel and it's not an experience I care to repeat, got the acid powder airborne.

I wouldn't go straight at the sulfur powder w a wire wheel. I'd use a terminal cleaner spray/gel/whatever or that's why I use baking soda and water - the "wet" keeps the dust down.

I personally only use wire wheels on power tools for small hard to reach areas (think spot cleaning), or areas that have been MOSTLY cleaned by some other means....unless they weren't bad to start with.

 

[joetech]

I wouldn't go straight at the sulfur powder w a wire wheel. I'd use a terminal cleaner spray/gel/whatever or that's why I use baking soda and water - the "wet" keeps the dust down.

I personally only use wire wheels on power tools for small hard to reach areas (think spot cleaning), or areas that have been MOSTLY cleaned by some other means....unless they weren't bad to start with.

Sulfur powder. Is that what the **** is? Gave me a bad day when I was stupid enough to do it dry for about two seconds.

Good point about wetting it down before brushing it off, that's simple enough to do. Thank you Ign!

 

[ex-x-fire]

I soak it in Kroil.