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partsproduction

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Well I guess it's decided. Partsproduction doesn't like the term "lead screw" for the main screw of a vise, and has righteously determined that "clamp screw" is etymologically correct; therefore, we must start using that term, and that term only, from this point forward.

I personally prefer the term "dynamic jaw motion and force inducer."

So, to you a "Dynamic" jaw is the same as a "Static" jaw? ;)

I looked at every vize manufacturers descriptions of the parts of their vises, and guess how many called the screw a "Lead" Screw? (Drum roll please)
Total number of real experts (Manufactures) calling the main actuating screw a "Lead" screw,,,,,0

But I guess those guys are foolish too. :lol:
 

Outlawmws

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Wow, 4 month reaction time...


Monarch 204
; you sure? I can't find that No. is it possibly 209? stationary or swivel?
 

partsproduction

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Using real leadscrews in my trade every day I really want to needle into the meanings of the "LEAD" parts of that misnomer. The term lead in general means to move a specific distance using a screw thread, for a specific purpose. That's my definition, here are some published definitions;
"(on a lathe) a rotating horizontal screw for moving the tool carriage along the work at a constant rate.
The dial, therefore, would enable the carriage to be engaged with the lead-screw at points equal to a travel of one-half inch. "
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/lead-screw
Wikipedia uses a wider definition;
"A leadscrew (or lead screw), also known as a power screw[1] or translation screw,[2] is a screw used as a linkage in a machine, to translate turning motion into linear motion." (I protest, that should be a power screw of a slide screw, which would fit a vise application)

However, Wikipedia engineering gets it right;
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead_(engineering)

"Lead is the axial advance of a helix or screw during one complete turn (360°)[1] The lead for a screw thread is the axial travel for a single revolution.[2]

"Pitch is defined as the axial distance between adjacent threads on a helix or screw. In most screws, called "single start" screws, which have a single helical thread along their length, the lead and pitch are equal. They only differ in "multiple start" screws, which have several intertwined threads. In these screws, the lead is equal to the pitch multiplied by the number of "starts".

Lead angle is the angle between the helix and a plane of rotation. It is the complement of the helix angle, and is used for convenience in worms and hobs. It is understood to be at the standard pitch diameter unless otherwise specified."

The word lead could be used loosely I suppose, as when a man leads a horse, but in a mechanical sense it should be a specified distance moved per a specified rotation. That's not foolishness, that's a real definition.

When one is discussing nomenclature under the banner of "Everything you need to know" it doesn't seem right to me to call it a leadscrew when you don't require a specific movement from a specified rotation in degrees or divisions.

I didn't see the two manufactiurers you brought up, but I expect they were using the "Lead a horse" meaning. All of the one's I looked up called simply a "Screw" or a "Clamp screw" or "Main screw".

This company makes screws for woodworking vises;
http://www.axminster.co.uk/benches-vices-storage/vices/vice-screws "Vise screw".

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-part/51871/0247/0752000/00042287/00001.html simply "Screw".
Actually just stating the name as "screw" alone makes best sense to me, and any other screws would have a specific additional word added, as "Jaw screw" for instance.

https://www.viseparts.com/ These people are in the business of making and selling vise parts, they call the screw a "spindle". Ok.

http://www.thomasnet.com/articles/machinery-tools-supplies/vises-guide
Manufacturers guide calls it a "screw assembly". Again, I agree with that.

You said Yost calls it a leadscrew, but here they just call it a "screw".
http://www.yostvises.com/replacement-parts/screw-nut-kit.html I suspect the parts department has the better name.

Ok, Reed vise parts?
http://www.reedmfgco.com/en/products/product-parts-library/vises/machinists-vises/ "Handle and screw" I like that too.

This could go on and on, the point here I'm trying (Hard) to make is that if we have a thread called everything you need to know about vises a little care should be taken to make sure we are using sensible engineering terms.

It's a fact that a man can walk a horse with long steps or short, and a vise screw could have varying lead (Threads per inch) and still be useable if the nut's threads were loose enough. But a true leadscrew in a machine shop must move a carefully specified distance every revolution, because if it didn't the screws being made on that machine would not be accurate.

This rapid prototype PDF spec. calls it a "Vise screw", hmmm, you know, that seems like a very good and fitting term.
http://www.ijaiem.org/Volume4Issue7/IJAIEM-2015-07-20-23.pdf


Yost and Wilton use the term lead screw for some vises. Examples:

http://www.yostvises.com/PDF/manual/750DIOM.pdf
page 6, part number 13

http://content.jettools.com/assets/manuals/10025_man.pdf
page 7, index number 11

Mostly I see them referred to as main screw, screw, or spindle.
 
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Outlawmws

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Through the bench swivel vise, Early 1900's, possibly late 1800's. These were before the "new" swivel on the base designs came to be popular.

It's missing the large wing nut to tighten it. The spreader washer for under the bench seems to be there between the plate and he vise base.

That plate site on top of the bench, and likely has a couple of counter sunk holes for wood screws to keep it from rotating. The notches in the plate appear to be setup for 45 deg stops. There will be 1 or 2 nubs on the base of the vise that fit those notches.

I've got nothing on a 402 but if you get it someone in the vise thread is likely to have a pf of an ad with jaw size and weight.


Lastly, getting pedantic on the terminology isn't likely to get you more than finger exercise on GJ. :dunno: :beer:
 

Fretters

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The term lead in general means to move a specific distance using a screw thread, for a specific purpose.

Need I say more. You typed that yourself, so I suppose you'll argue against your own definition now. Btw, it's leadscrew, not lead. Lead alone makes no reference to a screw being involved.
 
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Outlawmws

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BTW PartsP, if you Google "Bench vise lead screw" or "Bench vise leadscrew" and hit images, it's pretty clear its in common use. It's like people calling facial tissues "Kleenex" or a photo copy a "Xerox" copy. both of the latter are a specific thing, the former the "generic" term, and in this case its not even generic. You were quoted two companies that usethe term leadscrew... other companies use other terms, so the "experts" don't agree.

I'm not in complete disagreement with you; I don't call them leadscrews either, but there is no consensus.

Heck, we can't get our buddies across the pond to spell vise correctly! They insist on spelling it exactly like another word that means "immoral or wicked behavior."! (first definition that popped up!) :evil:
 
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Off-Street Parking

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attachment.php


Does anyone recognize the largest vise in this picture, or know what style it is? (What you would call it?)

It appears to have a hand crank for opening/closing, and the crank is on the tail end? :confused:
 

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Off-Street Parking

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Outlawmws

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A small to medium size mil vise can be great on a drill press, but minimal practicality on a std work bench if you have a fairly narrow "island" bench maybe.. The issue IMO is the jaws are away from the operator (if you keep the crank handy to the bench edge..) so your reaching over the vise to work.
 
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PoorOwner

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Hi guys, recently just cleaned up the inside of a new wilton trademen.

But I was wondering when in actual use, would the dynamic jaw just suddenly fall off if you keep opening the screw, or is there some kind of maximum marker or something to stop it, which I didn't see. If not how do you know if you have opened to the point of almost coming off?
 

exmaxima1

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Hi guys, recently just cleaned up the inside of a new wilton trademen.

But I was wondering when in actual use, would the dynamic jaw just suddenly fall off if you keep opening the screw, or is there some kind of maximum marker or something to stop it, which I didn't see. If not how do you know if you have opened to the point of almost coming off?

You will run out of thread before the jaw comes out. Try it yourself on your vise---you should have a few inches left before it slips completely out.
 

drivesitfar

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PO: yes EX is correct that you still have a little slide in the vise after the screw has disengaged, but it isn't much so you'll want to have a good grip on it to pull it out so you don't drop it. Especially on the bigger Wiltons and vises because the dynamic can weigh 50 to 100 pounds give or take. most vises i know of the dynamic jaw can just screw out all the way. there might be a few besides Record (English vice) that does have a stop and probably because some of them have a quick release type of action.
 
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partsproduction

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Hey guys, right at the start of this long thread it was mentioned that the little "anvil" spot at the back of some vise bases is not for using as an anvil. So, naturally, I have to ask, what is it for?

I just got my FPU vise, very nice, in NOS condition. The anvil is on the movable jaw. heh heh.
 

PoorOwner

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Hey guys, right at the start of this long thread it was mentioned that the little "anvil" spot at the back of some vise bases is not for using as an anvil. So, naturally, I have to ask, what is it for?

I just got my FPU vise, very nice, in NOS condition. The anvil is on the movable jaw. heh heh.

I believe this is because anvils should be forged or hardened.
The typical vise is just cast iron. So beside straightening a nail or aluminum strip , you may chip, indent the anvil or even crack the vise.
 

partsproduction

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I believe this is because anvils should be forged or hardened.
The typical vise is just cast iron. So beside straightening a nail or aluminum strip , you may chip, indent the anvil or even crack the vise.

Ah, good reason. It does seem odd that I've been involved with vises for most of my 66 years and just learned that. But perhaps I'd have learned it earlier had I used the little anvil surfaces more.
 

ianthegreat

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Vice that was left to me by previous homeowner. Not sure of the quality. Started a garage remodel and want this guy mounted. Started degunking it.. stumbled across this thread and will look into a better restoration/clean up method.

IMG_5914.jpg
 

dutchgray

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Hey guys, right at the start of this long thread it was mentioned that the little "anvil" spot at the back of some vise bases is not for using as an anvil. So, naturally, I have to ask, what is it for?

I just got my FPU vise, very nice, in NOS condition. The anvil is on the movable jaw. heh heh.

I think the vice companies intended them to be used so the vice would eventually break and then you would have to buy another, if they are not abused a good vice just doesn't wear out, one could last 50 years of constant daily use easily if kept clean and oiled.
 

bigfunwmu

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Hey guys, right at the start of this long thread it was mentioned that the little "anvil" spot at the back of some vise bases is not for using as an anvil. So, naturally, I have to ask, what is it for?

I just got my FPU vise, very nice, in NOS condition. The anvil is on the movable jaw. heh heh.

I keep a little magnetic parts tray on there. Lets me keep little snap rings, screws or roll pins from running off when taking stuff apart.

Also helps catch about 1/3 of the shavings I make whenever I have to drill out something.... :dunno: whether I want it to or not!
 

Outlawmws

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I think the vice companies intended them to be used so the vice would eventually break and then you would have to buy another, if they are not abused a good vice just doesn't wear out, one could last 50 years of constant daily use easily if kept clean and oiled.

I don't think they ever envisioned it being used for forging metal. Flattening soft metal, straightening a nail and the like and probably that cutter for cutting nails shorter. About all it could manage...

There is however, nothing made that a ham fisted maroon can't abuse, and they do...
 

Craptain

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. . . DO NOT HAMMER ON A MACHINIST VISE! THERE IS NO ANVIL AREA. AND YOU WILL RUIN THE SLIDE, OR CHIP THE BACK
I have a Charles Parker vise made in 1906, with 8" wide jaws. It is so heavy I cannot pick it up by myself (feels as if it is way over 100 lbs.). Takes two guys to carry it. Anyway, it has an anvil on it, so does that mean it is not a machinists vise and therefore is made of cast iron not ductile iron.

Thank you for your time.

You have a magnificent vise. But even though it is a good quality heavy vise it does not "really" have an anvil. If you need to beat on something get yourself a real anvil or, as I have, a length of railroad track. Your vise anvil is good for light duty only. Your Parker is cast but I don't know if it is cast iron or cast steel. Others may be able to answer that.

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk
 

Outlawmws

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Diyer, post some pics, but that sounds like a Parker Big Bear (only I thought the only came with 5" wide jaws, - or are you talking it's opening? Same design of the vise, but it came with an anvil on the back side.

The 5" would weigh 102 lbs.
 

jrobb316

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Big bears came in 4 and 5 inch varieties in swivel and stationary according to an old advert I have.
 

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Iloveabigvice

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Recently purchased a Parker 436A, its missing a block of some sort that holds the part the lead screw travels through. Anyone have a parts breakdown and/or history of it. It weighs in at 170 lbs.
 

Outlawmws

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These vises are cast, not forged and the letters were added to the wood patterns, so not uncommon for a letter to fall off. We have even seen misspellings, probably because two letters fell of and were replaced in the wrong order.

The thing that is trowing me off is the size vs. you mentioning it has the anvil. Please take some pictures and post them so we can see what we are trying to ID.

is the "anvil" in an anvil shape, or just a back side shelf? (common to most Parker's and many other vises)


Ok dude, here is the information on the vise: exactly to the letter what is written on both sides of the vise:


Side 1

The Chas Parker Co.
Oo
Meridan Ct. USA

Side 2

Semi Stee
Solid Bar
Pat. Jan 2, 1906
No. 79 1/2x


Btw, the word stee is not a typo, that is what it literally says. I thought for sure there should be a letter L on the end of that word, but no, it is not there. I looked close and it wasn't ever there, no grind mark. It was forged that way. I wonder why or what happened back then ? perhaps it moved during the id labeling stamping process -- maybe its the only one that happened to. I cant seem to find anything like it on the web, so, if you know anything send a reply, I'll check back from time to time . . . has 8" wide jaws, does not swivel. I could barely turn it over to read the markings, has to be well over 200 lbs. The closest photo I can find is a model called the Eclipse. But that one is marked a 958, and the part that the handle goes thru is pipe shaped, whereas the one I have is a large round ball shape. The vise is Red color.


I came close to finding it on this page:

> http://scuttle.dayid.org/wiki/index.php/Charles_Parker_Vise <

. . . but there is no 79 12/X . . . wth?

Also wonder what the big zero and small zero means?

bye for now
 

Outlawmws

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Also, getting back to your other post, Many of the Parkers had a steel rod cast in the length of the slide (you can often see the bar at the end of the slide) The Semi Steel marking indicates yours has this.

Round slide, or rectangular, both can be a machinist vise.
 

Outlawmws

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Yeah a Parker with an anvil on the back would be the Big Bear like this:

tumblr_inline_mjonfacOvT1qz4rgp.jpg




a Parker like you are now describing is more like this:

eaf6a679b974be51f7fe071ca3bba9c4.jpg
 

scotts_4x

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here's my oddball vise I just finished sprucing up. it's a reed 103 1/2 s. never seen one like it and I'm under the impression that all 100 series reeds were fixed base, the 200 were swivel. just picked this up at an auction last week. has smooth tool steel jaws and a pretty tight screw. it was missing the pivot bolt and one of the swivel lock assemblies but I was able to re-create those easily enough. overall I got a VERY usable, quality vice and now it looks good as well.

-Scott
20160602_211002_zpsjwpdcoal.jpg~original


20160602_210847_zpsxaipfix0.jpg~original
 
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diyer999

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a Parker like you are now describing is more like this:

eaf6a679b974be51f7fe071ca3bba9c4.jpg

That is close but the jaw area looks different. The dynamic jaw on the greyish one looks wider at the bottom, and the dynamic jaw on the red vise looks taller and not as wide on the bottom, as well as a more distinct squareish bottom front lip: Here are the pics:

View media item 61120
View media item 61119
Ok, I supplied all the info there is to write and photo. So, what is it? . . . what can you tell me? Cant find anything on a 79 1/2 X.
 
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tool_scrounge

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here's my oddball vise I just finished sprucing up. it's a reed 103 1/2 s. never seen one like it and I'm under the impression that all 100 series reeds were fixed base, the 200 were swivel. just picked this up at an auction last week. has smooth tool steel jaws and a pretty tight screw. it was missing the pivot bolt and one of the swivel lock assemblies but I was able to re-create those easily enough. overall I got a VERY usable, quality vice and now it looks good as well.

-Scott

I once looked t buying a Reed 108 that had a swivel base as shown in the attached photo. 100 series vises do appear to exist with swivel bases.

attachment.php
 

vertguy

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I have a 104-1/2 as well that came with a swivel base.
 

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