Everything you need to know about bench vises...
- Thread starter mjozefow
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srvctec
Well-known member
I'm no vise expert and don't even have one of these cool old versions in this thread but I'd use a solution of Simple Green mixed with water- just follow the dilution directions on the bottle.
"It's time to be CORRECT, NOT politically correct!!!"
-The Truth
Craptain
Well-known member
No! You can often get away with Simple Green but it can and often does take the paint off. To preserve the original paint use something gentler like Murphy's Oil Soap.
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srvctec
Well-known member
goofiefoot
Well-known member
I'd like some input on this vise I got from my grandfather when he passed 20 years ago. Clearly, I haven't maintained it, but it's always worked as I needed.
There are no manufacturer names, only numbers. The 110008 and 1644 numbers matched up with Wilton in a Google search, but I couldn't find an exact match for it. Any info would be appreciated!
There are no manufacturer names, only numbers. The 110008 and 1644 numbers matched up with Wilton in a Google search, but I couldn't find an exact match for it. Any info would be appreciated!
bagged89s10
Well-known member
I'd like some input on this vise I got from my grandfather when he passed 20 years ago. Clearly, I haven't maintained it, but it's always worked as I needed.
There are no manufacturer names, only numbers. The 110008 and 1644 numbers matched up with Wilton in a Google search, but I couldn't find an exact match for it. Any info would be appreciated!
Looks like a Wilton 1644 mechanics vise. Those other numbers are part numbers.
goofiefoot
Well-known member
That's what I've found, too. Strange there's no Wilton name anywhere on it like the others I've found online.
I went ahead and started restoring it, so feel free to follow along:
Restoring my grandfather's vise
bagged89s10
Well-known member
A lot of Wiltons like that one have that rectangle indent where there was a Wilton sticker/logo. Most I've seen end up falling off.
silversmith
New member
Hello! I have a Columbian vise, its marked D56 (or is that a 58?) with 6" wide jaws (also marked made in the USA). Its in good condition and works great as a vise BUT the anvil portion, which measures about 2-5/8" by 3" is dinged with hammer strikes. I want to use that anvil surface to bend and draw out silver and copper with a planishing hammer but need a smooth surface as all of those marks will show in the finished piece of any soft metal. Is there any way to sand this kind of cast iron with an angle grinder or orbital sander? Or would it need to be milled? Or is this just not going to work as a surface to hammer copper or silver on? Thanks for any advice. My hope is to save hundreds of dollars on hammering stakes etc. meant for bench jewelers.
I've attached an image of the vise (for identification) and a close up of the anvil surface.
I've attached an image of the vise (for identification) and a close up of the anvil surface.
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Recoil Rob
Well-known member
Really shouldn't use a vise as an anvil but sounds like you are doing jewelry so I doubt you'll crack it. Sure, you can polish it just like any piece of steel, successively going down in grit until as smooth as you need. But you have to figure what your time is worth....
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Silversmith: some guys have a machinist mill it flat and unless you know one it might cost you as much as the vise. others use belt sanders and try not to round the edges. some use just sandpaper or files. Rob is right on about not using a vise as an anvil so only light duty work or you will crack the vise.
i have a chunk of RR track i use for cold steel and when i do have a real anvil available i'll only use it for hot steel cause i don't want to chip off the edges.
your vise looks decent.
any other questions just ask and we are a pretty friendly bunch so if we see the question we'll try to help. welcome to the forum too and glad to have another member with some skills.
cheers
i have a chunk of RR track i use for cold steel and when i do have a real anvil available i'll only use it for hot steel cause i don't want to chip off the edges.
your vise looks decent.
any other questions just ask and we are a pretty friendly bunch so if we see the question we'll try to help. welcome to the forum too and glad to have another member with some skills.
cheers
silversmith
New member
Whoa, a smooth piece of RR track would actually be perfect for what I am doing, I will keep a look out for that. I have a milling machine, but might be back at square one with getting those mill marks off the face - but it will be my next option if I cant sand them back with the angl e grinder or orbital. I'm not sure of what is heavy or light duty use in comparison to what people usually use these vises for, but my hammers are mostly between the 6-8oz range (I have one heavier, but the vibration is too much for more than a couple of minutes of striking) and I'm hitting sterling, fine silver and copper up to maybe at the thickest 16g sheet and 8-10g (at the heaviest) wire, usually starting with dead soft or annealed to soft and I anneal as I go to keep the metal bending.
Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
Silversmith,
Welcome to the group.
As far as the anvil surface, I would use a belt sander. However, if I had your problem, I would cut and attach a piece of 1/2" flat stock to the anvil area. The other solution is the one that Drives mentioned, about the railroad rail anvil.
Welcome to the group.
As far as the anvil surface, I would use a belt sander. However, if I had your problem, I would cut and attach a piece of 1/2" flat stock to the anvil area. The other solution is the one that Drives mentioned, about the railroad rail anvil.
cillamoorer
New member
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2016
- Messages
- 3
I would recommend "Record" brand bench vices. I do not know if you are in Canada but canadian tire sells them. If you are not in a hurry they do go on sale for a significant discount. We use them at work and they take a good beating without the acme screw stripping.
Yankeeclipper
New member
- Joined
- May 17, 2014
- Messages
- 1
According to the catalog you have a No.20 Combination Anvil Vise and Drill and the hole is for a drill attachment.
Cope
Well-known member
My son-in-law picked up a Reed 105R today at an estate sale. What does the "R" signify?
All,
I'm new to the site membership wise, so first hello! I've definitely learned a bit lurking so figured it was time to join.
Let me preface this by saying I'm intent on locating a quality Vise once I'm finished relocating for work and get settled in somewhere more permanently with a garage and what not. Looking at a vintage Wilton, Reed ( I grew up 30 mins from Erie, PA), or other comparable brand.
In the interim I need something to pull general duty but still be of quality of course. Mostly to handle a few gunsmith related tasks. I'm looking at picking up the following Reed Tool 26B utility vise but I can not find anything online as far as reviews or suggestions on quality. Are any of Y'all familiar with this particular vise?
https://www.reedmfgco.com/en/products/vises/utility-workshop-vises/26b/
life time warranty and if it's of good quality like Reed is known for than for the price of around 100$ it's not bad at all I wouldn't think. From what I can gather parts or outsourced OCONUS and it's assembled here. If I have to spring 500-600 for a Wilton Tradesman that's or see what I can find in the EE here that's fine too. Just wanted to see if this was/is a possible diamond in the rough.
Thank!
I'm new to the site membership wise, so first hello! I've definitely learned a bit lurking so figured it was time to join.
Let me preface this by saying I'm intent on locating a quality Vise once I'm finished relocating for work and get settled in somewhere more permanently with a garage and what not. Looking at a vintage Wilton, Reed ( I grew up 30 mins from Erie, PA), or other comparable brand.
In the interim I need something to pull general duty but still be of quality of course. Mostly to handle a few gunsmith related tasks. I'm looking at picking up the following Reed Tool 26B utility vise but I can not find anything online as far as reviews or suggestions on quality. Are any of Y'all familiar with this particular vise?
https://www.reedmfgco.com/en/products/vises/utility-workshop-vises/26b/
life time warranty and if it's of good quality like Reed is known for than for the price of around 100$ it's not bad at all I wouldn't think. From what I can gather parts or outsourced OCONUS and it's assembled here. If I have to spring 500-600 for a Wilton Tradesman that's or see what I can find in the EE here that's fine too. Just wanted to see if this was/is a possible diamond in the rough.
Thank!
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Jpmuscle-- This is only my opinion and everyones is different but that Reed looks just like the Chinese Craftsman imports. If it was only assembled here in the USA i would pass on that Reed. Assembling a vise dont take much know how or experience. If the iron isnt American made, pass pass pass. Save your $100 and browse Craigslist. You can get decent used American vises for that amount used. You can find US Columbian D44-46 all over CL for cheap. Theyre a good inexpensive vise to beat on. You might be able to find a Wilton machinest or tradesman for $100 but you have to be quick to get it and youll have to look it over real good. You should post on your profile where your general residence is too, that way locals can help you. Good luck with your search.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I would not select that vise (or similar) for gunsmith work. the way the jaws are, you can't easily put jaw caps on to protect the parts, and the jaws as they are will mar the parts...
I have a Reed vise I inherited from my grandfather. It has "NO 304" on one side, and the PAT. DEC. 24, 1912 PAT. AUG. 17, 1914 along with REED MFG. CO. ERIE, PA. U.S.A. on the other side. I have not been able to find out much about this particular vise after days of searching on-line. It's in great shape, no cracks, and the jaws still line up perfectly, but it needs a few things. A new handle for starters. However to do that, I need to remove the leadscrew, but I can't get the set screw out of the retaining ring. It turns about a half turn. I suspect it mushroomed on the other side. Should I just drill it out and re-tap it?
There is a hole in the top where I found a tapered piece of metal wedged in there. Is there some kind of tapered pin that is missing? It looks like maybe that jaw might pivot, however I have been unable to get it to move. Anyone know anything about that? Am I on the right track? If so, any suggestions on how to get it to move if it's seized up, and is it possible to locate a replacement for that missing pin?
It also looks as if someone at one time tried to grind grooves in the jaws. Unfortunately, from what I understand, they are not replaceable. Not sure what I'm going to do about that yet.
Any tips or suggestions for either shining this thing up or should I paint it? Does anyone on the forum make vise handles?
This is the first vise I'm attempting to somewhat restore, so I'm sure I'll have more questions.
Here is a link to the album of photos of the vise I have taken so far:
https://imageshack.com/user/Developer69
Thanks in advance!
There is a hole in the top where I found a tapered piece of metal wedged in there. Is there some kind of tapered pin that is missing? It looks like maybe that jaw might pivot, however I have been unable to get it to move. Anyone know anything about that? Am I on the right track? If so, any suggestions on how to get it to move if it's seized up, and is it possible to locate a replacement for that missing pin?
It also looks as if someone at one time tried to grind grooves in the jaws. Unfortunately, from what I understand, they are not replaceable. Not sure what I'm going to do about that yet.
Any tips or suggestions for either shining this thing up or should I paint it? Does anyone on the forum make vise handles?
This is the first vise I'm attempting to somewhat restore, so I'm sure I'll have more questions.
Here is a link to the album of photos of the vise I have taken so far:
https://imageshack.com/user/Developer69
Thanks in advance!
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Dev, you have a swivel jaw vise there, but I'm guessing the jaw is rusted into place. that back jaw should rotate and then be able to be pulled loose. the tapered hole is for a pin to keep it squared up.
The handle can be cut to remove it as its a replacement made from All-thread.
The handle can be cut to remove it as its a replacement made from All-thread.
Thanks for your response, Outlawmws. I'll have to soak that side with some penetrating fluid and see if I can get the swivel jaw to move. Currently that handle is just a bolt with a nut on the end. I have since removed it. I'm hoping to find something more original than all thread rod. I've also drilled out the retainer and removed the leadscrew. Started cleaning and scrubbing....
Vise I can use help identifying
Uncle gave me the following Montgomery Wards vise. Reading, seems they re-branded Wilton and others.
https://goo.gl/photos/z1HhhELAQg987SB59
Anyone know what the original brand was? Curious. I had to angle grind off rust etc and it is in excellent shape. Seems to have gotten a decent amount of use, so guessing it was my grandfathers at one time.
Uncle gave me the following Montgomery Wards vise. Reading, seems they re-branded Wilton and others.
https://goo.gl/photos/z1HhhELAQg987SB59
Anyone know what the original brand was? Curious. I had to angle grind off rust etc and it is in excellent shape. Seems to have gotten a decent amount of use, so guessing it was my grandfathers at one time.
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Dev-- i would think any competent machine shop could make a new handle easily. You just need a solid steel rod and use ur imagination to make end caps for each end of the rod. IF you are still stuck, GJ member Kevin Scott would be your best place to get a new handle.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
That Wards might predate Wilton... 
Found the following on Ebay. Bottom is different, top looks pretty close.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilton-Shop...attachnment-/252609273686?hash=item3ad0af9f56
Thanx all. Also had no idea that was a Hardy tool.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
About as much as it does with the Similarly styled Parker 63-1/2
About as much as it does with the Similarly styled Parker 63-1/2
I'd still lean towards the Wilson. The handle looks to be a perfect copy. Bottom is not like the shop king....but a lot more similarities than others I've seen, especially on top.
M. Wards did not make their own, at least from what I can find, so re-branded others. Doesn't mean they didn't have their own line (no clue).
Google's library has older catalogs from M. Wards........would be a needle in haystack trying to find it and match what they used during whenever it was made.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Hey, If I was able to do it for Craftsman, someone should be able to for M Wards..
I still think it predates Wilton's existence.
I still think it predates Wilton's existence.
I'll keep an eye out for anything that looks similar. Sears and M Wards battled it out for a while, again, from reading. Unfortunately, both look to be ending up in the history books with a similar death.
There may be markings on the bottom I didn't check....but not too excited about removing after finally getting it mounted.
chengdave2003
Member
I need to replace the missing ball end handle on a Littlestown 112 vise for a friend who received the vise when he was 8 years old (he's now in his 50's). Can anyone tell me what the diameter of the balls on the handle are? I'm thinking 3/4" or so....I'll be making the handle and balls on a lathe... I don't expect to make it perfect, but close would be nice....
Hey everyone, I was sent over here from the HAMB to try and identify my recently acquired vice.
It has no identifying marks, is bigger than anything I've seen or used before and has clearly seen a ton of use before I got my hands on it. I took it apart and got it functioning much better. Currently I'm in search of replacement jaws for it but am coming up empty. If I can't find new jaws I was considering machining new teeth in the ones I have.
Here's a few pics to hopefully point me in the right direction. Sorry a couple came out sideways. Jaws are 7 1/2" wide. Spacing of the holes is 5 15/16" (which seems odd). There are holes on the slide which I initially thought was for a brand tag but the spacing is the same as the jaw holes. I can only guess to store a second pair of jaws for some reason.
Thanks all, NAES
It has no identifying marks, is bigger than anything I've seen or used before and has clearly seen a ton of use before I got my hands on it. I took it apart and got it functioning much better. Currently I'm in search of replacement jaws for it but am coming up empty. If I can't find new jaws I was considering machining new teeth in the ones I have.
Here's a few pics to hopefully point me in the right direction. Sorry a couple came out sideways. Jaws are 7 1/2" wide. Spacing of the holes is 5 15/16" (which seems odd). There are holes on the slide which I initially thought was for a brand tag but the spacing is the same as the jaw holes. I can only guess to store a second pair of jaws for some reason.
Thanks all, NAES
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