I have an exhaust leak coming from the front exhaust manifold on my 1998 Chrysler Sebring 6cyl 2.5L coupe. I took the exhaust manifold out and there is 2 even cracks on the left and right side of the manifold (see picture below) Is this normal?
Exhaust Manifold
- Thread starter onecheck
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84bimmer
Well-known member
no pic. I'm not too familiar with Dodge, but there shouldn't be any cracks in a manifold. Maybe see if you can blow compressed air through.
84bimmer
Well-known member
The cracks outside the bolt hole? I don't think that could cause a leak. It is after your gasket. Look for small hairline cracks, they can be very hard to see. How was your gasket?
Underdog
Well-known member
I don't know the engine but they look factory to me.
Theloniousmonk
Well-known member
those are factory afaik...for expansion/heat reasons, ... you may just need a new manifold gasket and retorquing of fasteners (use new nuts if it's studded, or use new bolts, imo) did you know for sure the leak was coming from the head/manifold gasket area? edit: just read your update - probably just need a gasket - the expansion/contraction of the manifold on the gasket acts kinda like sandpaper and will wear the gasket out over the years.
84bimmer
Well-known member
I tried looking for pics of a new manifold. Couldn't find a new one in my quick search. But yeah, those are there for the heat expansion, so the bolt or stud doesn't become stuck to the manifold, or can be freed easily.
Don't clean or spread the soot, cleaner areas on the manifold where it should be dirty may indicate cracks. They can be hard to trace. I'd say if you don't see anything, throw a new gasket on, properly torque new nuts/bolts and check. If you still have a leak, hit the junkyard, as a new one may be hard to find for a reasonable price. I checked rockauto.com, napa, and autozone, they don't carry a manifold. Gasket at autozone is $11.
Don't clean or spread the soot, cleaner areas on the manifold where it should be dirty may indicate cracks. They can be hard to trace. I'd say if you don't see anything, throw a new gasket on, properly torque new nuts/bolts and check. If you still have a leak, hit the junkyard, as a new one may be hard to find for a reasonable price. I checked rockauto.com, napa, and autozone, they don't carry a manifold. Gasket at autozone is $11.
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I agree with Theloniousmonk. Clean that badboy up and new gasket. Hard to tell from pics if any issues. But looking at it and the build up it had to be leaking. Were you getting any ticking nosie when cold startup?
84bimmer
Well-known member
Here ya go, looks like a factory sketch......
https://www.trademotion.com/partloc...5230&callout=2&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0
I don't see those slits there, but that doesn't mean they are not. The manifold you pictured looks like the right side (passenger). I hope yours is ok man, on this site a new one is over $800!It looks to be a dealer only item.
https://www.trademotion.com/partloc...5230&callout=2&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0
I don't see those slits there, but that doesn't mean they are not. The manifold you pictured looks like the right side (passenger). I hope yours is ok man, on this site a new one is over $800!It looks to be a dealer only item.
84bimmer
Well-known member
Identifix points towards the catalytic converter more than likely being bad. Possibly o2 sensors. I'm wondering why the right side manifold is $700 more than left side? What is so special about it? Replace the gasket bud, it may fix it all........
Bran Diezel
Well-known member
mitsubishi junk
jethro29
Well-known member
it's been my experience that 9 out of ten times if you got a 420,you've got a bad cat.and chrysler's factory cats are junk.i've replaced them at 60 and seventy thousand.good luck.
ZRX61
Well-known member
If you have a big enough belt sander you can do it yourself.... That's all a machine shop would do.
treasureseeker
Well-known member
I like the 4 cylinder Mitsubishi's. I have just used a flat file on exhaust manifolds like that. If it uses the graphite gasket you can coat it with the grey anti-seize to help seal it .
csargents1546
Well-known member
I agree that those slots are for expansion and contraction. Also take a good straight edge and check your manifold for warpage. If it has any warpage, take to a machine shop and have them plann it for you. Carquest up here charges 50.00 per manifold. They do a great job. The best way I have found to clean the head side is to use an air angle die grinder with 3m roloc pads. At work we use the yellow rolocs.
What type of flat file? Grit?
treasureseeker
Well-known member
I have used a fine flat file like Craftsman sells. I am suggesting using it to clean up the manifold not correct if it is extremely warped. I found out about the anti-seize at Roush which was their standard procedure on graphite exhaust gaskets that leaked
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bmxr4life87
Well-known member
Don't forget to anti seize the exhaust fastners too
84bimmer
Well-known member
I don't think your too concerned with the manifold having a crack. But, if you do take it to a machine shop for re-surfacing, you should have them check it for cracks. They should have the equipment to do so. It is common for cast iron exhaust manifolds to crack.
Greatbear
Well-known member
The slots in the bolt holes are normal. They are for stress relief and allow the manifold to move around slightly to compensate for expansion/contraction.
Lay a straight-edge across the flange. There should be very little to no warpage. Always use new mounting hardware when reinstalling.
Lay a straight-edge across the flange. There should be very little to no warpage. Always use new mounting hardware when reinstalling.