Expansion Cuts

[A**holes Garage]

I'll be using it in a couple weeks. Good question, I'm too lazy to read the label.

What is the minimum temp?

 

[jimmie jam]

I find it interesting that taking a "chance" on getting a perfect result is the choise of some rather than leaving the control joint as-is. I'll bet that the final completed success rate is much lower than expected. It seems like the opening of a "can of worms" to attempt this....can't wait to see the results though. Good luck!

 

[A**holes Garage]

I find it interesting that taking a "chance" on getting a perfect result is the choise of some rather than leaving the control joint as-is. I'll bet that the final completed success rate is much lower than expected. It seems like the opening of a "can of worms" to attempt this....can't wait to see the results though. Good luck!

I don't see it as "taking a chance". I have a 14 year old floor that isn't going anyhwere now and Legacy makes a product specifically for this application.

Not going for the perfect floor but one that has no cracks. I move heavy workbenches around the garage and it's a PIA to lift them over these control joints.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Yes, this is the solution for joints and cracks and frankly it's hard to screw it up.

Try to stay better than 50 degrees although if lower it will only lengthen the cure time.

 

[A**holes Garage]

Yes, this is the solution for joints and cracks and frankly it's hard to screw it up.

Try to stay better than 50 degrees although if lower it will only lengthen the cure time.

Thanks for the info. Scott.

 

[mfive]

Scotty, can I apply a second coat of HD-821 above the first one sooner than 24 hours? Will there be adhesion problems to one another if I do? I was hoping to get the floor laid down tomorrow evening (first coat). I filled the expansion joints, but even though I pressed it down in as best as I could it still seems to have settled a bit inside the joint and I can see a very slight depression. I'd like to put another layer on top to smooth it out with the concrete, what's the earliest I can safely apply?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Earlier the better, wait more than 24 hours and you lose the chemical bond window.

 

[pauls340]

Scotty, if i decide to epoxy first and then fill the joints with a color matching caulk product, i was thinking about "chasing" the control joints with a new diamond blade to provide a nice clean side for the caulk to adhear to. How would the rolled over edge of the epoxy cut with a diamond blade? And do you think it would be a good advantage to sawcut the joints first?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Scotty, if i decide to epoxy first and then fill the joints with a color matching caulk product, i was thinking about "chasing" the control joints with a new diamond blade to provide a nice clean side for the caulk to adhear to. How would the rolled over edge of the epoxy cut with a diamond blade? And do you think it would be a good advantage to sawcut the joints first?

Do not cut the epoxy, it may cause issues down the road, caulk it as is.

 

[tjbrewster]

Scotty,

I have two standard control joints, 25 ft long, 1/2" deep x 1/2 '' wide. How much of the gel will I need to fill these. I assume you don't need backer rod with this stuff? Does it come with instructions?

Thx, TJ

 

[dcs Inc]

If the area is constantly heated you shouldn't have any problems with crack control cuts. (these are the ones that are either tooled in or saw cut). Expansion joints are the ones that normally have a a 1/2" expansion material in them.
If the temps vary and the crack control cut has cracked at the bottom of it, then it will move again with the varying temperature. This will crack the "filler" that has been put into them.
You have to understand that concrete expands and contracts with varying temps. The crack control cuts are there to guide the random cracks that occur in concrete due to the expansion and contraction and also when the concrete hydrates (dries) at the time of placement due to shrinkage during curing. As long as you don't have any issues with the sub-grade faulting, once concrete dries (shrinks), if you keep it at a constant temp, concrete shouldn't crack. Impact fractures which include load stresses are the only other way concrete will fracture.
I don't know your sale man's material but if you are going to fill a control joint or a crack control cut, it should be filled all the way through it. Elite Crete Systems has a epoxy crack fill that will obtain a 15,000 psi strength and has a good wet-ability to it to saturate the concrete to hold on. I'm sure the stuff you're being pitched with is as good.
gene ec-Indy

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Scotty,

I have two standard control joints, 25 ft long, 1/2" deep x 1/2 '' wide. How much of the gel will I need to fill these. I assume you don't need backer rod with this stuff? Does it come with instructions?

Thx, TJ

TJ:
1/2" deep x 1/2" wide and you won't need backer rod.
The one gallon kit should do it.

 

[mfive]

Scotty,

I have two standard control joints, 25 ft long, 1/2" deep x 1/2 '' wide. How much of the gel will I need to fill these. I assume you don't need backer rod with this stuff? Does it come with instructions?

Thx, TJ

TJ, I bought the two-gallon kit and have a bunch left. If you're near Raleigh, NC I would sell it to you at a hefty discount, not sure I'll ever use this stuff again in my life! (sorry Scotty! , the stuff worked great though!)

 

[tjbrewster]

Mfive,
thanks for the offer, but I'm on the other side of the country (Tucson) But really how much could it cost to ship. Just kidding.

Scotty,
Should I fill the control joints first with the filler or put down the RockSolid first.(I was one of the winners of the flooring awaiting delivery) Give me some guidance, I'm ready to pull the trigger on the filler.

Thanks, TJ

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

If using the gel yes. Fill, cure, grind near flush and coat.
If using our cartridge SuperFlex, coat and fill after.

 

[TXNinAZ]

Scotty, how does the Legacy product work in extreme heat? My biggest concern with epoxy is hot tire pickup, and when the air temp is approaching 120*, driving a hot tire onto a very hot, coated surface causes cheaper coatings to peel right up onto a car's tires, especially if you have any moisture on the tire. I love the idea of a gel filling for my control cuts, but I still have to figure something out for removing the paint on the concrete before I can etch the surface (every off-the-shelf chemical treatment has been useless, and I don't have access to a diamond grinder). Any insights on Legacy's products in my climate (Phoenix, AZ)?

 

[TXNinAZ]

Scotty, I also need to calculate how much 821 I will need for my control cuts- I have a post-tensioned slab for my attached 3 car garage and they went nuts with control joints. There is approximately 96 linear feet of joints to fill, which are about 3/4" wide by 1/2" deep (looks like they were made with a standard edger when the concrete was wet).

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Scotty, how does the Legacy product work in extreme heat? My biggest concern with epoxy is hot tire pickup, and when the air temp is approaching 120*, driving a hot tire onto a very hot, coated surface causes cheaper coatings to peel right up onto a car's tires, especially if you have any moisture on the tire. I love the idea of a gel filling for my control cuts, but I still have to figure something out for removing the paint on the concrete before I can etch the surface (every off-the-shelf chemical treatment has been useless, and I don't have access to a diamond grinder). Any insights on Legacy's products in my climate (Phoenix, AZ)?

It works....
excellent!! Heat has no bearing on epoxy other than speeding up the cure when applying. The materials showing tire lift are likely water-BASED and can't take the heat. Our HD or Standard kits will have no issue with hot tires.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Scotty, I also need to calculate how much 821 I will need for my control cuts- I have a post-tensioned slab for my attached 3 car garage and they went nuts with control joints. There is approximately 96 linear feet of joints to fill, which are about 3/4" wide by 1/2" deep (looks like they were made with a standard edger when the concrete was wet).

The one gallon kit should suffice.

 

[A**holes Garage]

Scotty, I also need to calculate how much 821 I will need for my control cuts- I have a post-tensioned slab for my attached 3 car garage and they went nuts with control joints. There is approximately 96 linear feet of joints to fill, which are about 3/4" wide by 1/2" deep (looks like they were made with a standard edger when the concrete was wet).

I'll be installing the 821 filler next week if you're interested in info or checking it out.

 

[tjbrewster]

"If using the gel yes. Fill, cure, grind near flush and coat.
If using our cartridge SuperFlex, coat and fill after."

Scotty, One last question. You said grind the gel smooth after application. Can I just smooth it with a float or putty knife prior to coating or do I have to grind?

Thanks, TJ

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Few options...

If you are coating over later, then you can grind smooth to hide it completely.

However, some folks tape both sides of the joint and pull the tape once it starts to get tacky.

Some will use a razor scraper once it has tacked off.

and some just smooth it out perfect and don't have to do anything.

It's up to you, all are acceptable methods.

 

[ezzzzzzz]

We have a gel crack filler specific for this.
It goes down prior to coating. The pic below is from a GJ member.

http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/crack-sealant-gel-style-p-206.html

I've got large relief joints to fill (beveled approximately 1/2 - 3/4 deep and 1/2 to 3/4 wide). I noticed the seemingly wide gaps in your photos that looked much like my situation. I purchased 3 tubes of Sikaflex SL but started looking it your product. When I read the PDF of the gel you have recommended it says that a maximum of a 1/8 gap is allowable. Now I'm confused as to what product to use. Can you elaborate on this gel product?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Typo...
You can use it over 1/8".

I'll have someone change that today.

Thanks.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Corrected.

 

[R7237]

If using HD-322 Urethane top coat on a HD epoxy (White) floor, and HD-100 in the expansion joints, is it best to fill the joints before or after the top coat? Looking for maximum hide characteristics, and do not want problems down the road with slab expansion/contraction.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

R7237:
Slabs will move and joints will crack, it's a fact. I would complete the coating process and then fill the joints with the HD100. This is how it was intended to be used.

If you put it under the coating and pressure is applied, like a jack roller, you could potentially crack the coating. If this occurs with the HD100 on top, nothing will happen.

Our HD821 was intended to be placed under the coating as it has structural integrity in addition to good elongation properties.

Hope this helps.