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Experience with 5 hp air compressor and sandblaster?

VoodooCLD

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I’m looking at buying a sandblaster and sandblast cabinet. Mostly for small machine tool and bicycle/motorcycle restoration. I’m looking at buying a 36” wide x 24” deep x 24” tall blast cabinet. Most of what I sandblast will fit in that size, with the occasional machine stand or tool box. Most of what I hear quoted is needing 20 CFM for sand blasting. It seems the 5 HP 2 stage compressors are rated at 15-17 CFM and roughly 17-19 CFM at 100 PSI.

Who has experience sandblasting with a 5 HP 2 stage compressor, is it a sufficient amount or should I go with a 7.5 HP?

I realize bigger is always better, but I need to draw the line somewhere and even the 5 HP compressor on a 40 amp circuit seems like a lot in my 2 car garage. But this is going to be the last compressor I’m going to buy so if it needs to be 7.5 HP then that’s what I’ll make work.

I’m looking at this Eaton Polar Air quiet series.
600FB1A3-3B1A-4066-8064-78B039E9BC68.png
 
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GeoBruin

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The gun you're using should have the ability to swap out jets and tips. Just use the jet/tip combination that is best suited the the amount of air your compressor can deliver and it will work fine. Can you blast more area faster with a bigger compressor and bigger jet/tip? Yes. But that's a choice. It's not like it just "won't work" if you can't make 20CFM. Plus, the jump from 15 to 20 CFM will double to triple the cost of your compressor. Is it worth it? Only you can answer that.

For what it's worth, I have a 5hp compressor that makes an honest 15 CFM and I use a TP Tools Skat Blast gun. I run the medium (1/4") nozzle combo rated for 10-15 CFM compressors and my compressor is able to catch up and shut off intermittently even while blasting almost constantly. That said, I mostly work on small parts so I'm not blasting for hours on end. Also, I spent a lot of time making a metering valve and tuning my air/media mixture for optimal performance. I don't know if I would have the same experience using the gun with a pickup tube.

If I wanted to run a bigger nozzle, I'd probably pickup a harbor freight portable oilless compressor for a few hundred bucks, plumb it into my air distribution system upstream of all the filters and driers, and use it as a "peaker". Especially since I would then have a portable compressor when I needed one.

Good luck!
 

Walkers

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It is frustrating for sure. Time consuming as well because you are always running out of air. Get a second 5 horse compressor and run them together. I have 7.5 horse on my IR T10 compressor with an 80 gallon tank. Sure, you can blast small stuff before your tank is low, but a 12"x12" plate steel blasting paint off both sides is an exercise in frustration.
 

Jswain

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I blast steel military style 5 gallon Jerry cans for a guy regularly with my 5hp compressor which has the same style pump as yours.

My compressor kicks in @ 130ish and out at 160psi, line pressure to the cabinet is regulated at 125psi and I usually blast ~ 60psi, they take me between 30 minutes and 45 or so depending on condition and the type of paint and I NEVER have to wait for my compressor, nor do I stop and let it catch up.

I'd say that compressor is definitely good enough for a DIY guy, I've made enough money off just the jerry cans to pay for the compressor, blasting cabinet and more
 

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VoodooCLD

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The gun you're using should have the ability to swap out jets and tips. Just use the jet/tip combination that is best suited the the amount of air your compressor can deliver and it will work fine. Can you blast more area faster with a bigger compressor and bigger jet/tip? Yes. But that's a choice. It's not like it just "won't work" if you can't make 20CFM. Plus, the jump from 15 to 20 CFM will double to triple the cost of your compressor. Is it worth it? Only you can answer that.

For what it's worth, I have a 5hp compressor that makes an honest 15 CFM and I use a TP Tools Skat Blast gun. I run the medium (1/4") nozzle combo rated for 10-15 CFM compressors and my compressor is able to catch up and shut off intermittently even while blasting almost constantly. That said, I mostly work on small parts so I'm not blasting for hours on end. Also, I spent a lot of time making a metering valve and tuning my air/media mixture for optimal performance. I don't know if I would have the same experience using the gun with a pickup tube.

If I wanted to run a bigger nozzle, I'd probably pickup a harbor freight portable oilless compressor for a few hundred bucks, plumb it into my air distribution system upstream of all the filters and driers, and use it as a "peaker". Especially since I would then have a portable compressor when I needed one.

Good luck!
Are you using a pressure pot? I googled skat blast gun and it said it’s siphon feed, so i guess im not understanding how your set up is different from a siphon feed.

Im looking at a cyclone blast cabinet and they offer a 14 CFM gun and then the next size up is 25 CFM. That surprised me that there was such a large gap. I figured I was going to have to tinker with the air and nozzle to find a happy spot. I have a lathe so that shouldn’t be too big of an issue.
It is frustrating for sure. Time consuming as well because you are always running out of air. Get a second 5 horse compressor and run them together. I have 7.5 horse on my IR T10 compressor with an 80 gallon tank. Sure, you can blast small stuff before your tank is low, but a 12"x12" plate steel blasting paint off both sides is an exercise in frustration.
Yikes! This is what I hear from time to time that makes me question if the 5 HP is really enough. I would definitely not want a 12”x12” plate to be frustrating. With a 7.5 hp motor that surprises me. Is the media worn out, or is it because of the paint? I’ve noticed some restorers strip paint with chemicals and the sandblast to get the rust. While I’m currently stripping paint chemically right now, it would be nice if the blast cabinet could handle that work. Even if I have to use 2 different medias for paint removal and surface conditioning.
 
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VoodooCLD

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I blast steel military style 5 gallon Jerry cans for a guy regularly with my 5hp compressor which has the same style pump as yours.

My compressor kicks in @ 130ish and out at 160psi, line pressure to the cabinet is regulated at 125psi and I usually blast ~ 60psi, they take me between 30 minutes and 45 or so depending on condition and the type of paint and I NEVER have to wait for my compressor, nor do I stop and let it catch up.

I'd say that compressor is definitely good enough for a DIY guy, I've made enough money off just the jerry cans to pay for the compressor, blasting cabinet and more
That is an excellent example! Thank you for sharing. This gives me hope that I could get by with a 5hp set up.

This is the cabinet I’m looking at. I need top load as it’s going to sandwiched in between a big tool box and an arbor press. The clam shell designs pivot backward so I wouldn’t be able to put it flush up against the wall.

FC8624D0-46AA-4AD1-8E3E-8E06ECE31E8E.png
 

Jswain

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That is an excellent example! Thank you for sharing. This gives me hope that I could get by with a 5hp set up.

This is the cabinet I’m looking at. I need top load as it’s going to sandwiched in between a big tool box and an arbor press. The clam shell designs pivot backward so I wouldn’t be able to put it flush up against the wall.

FC8624D0-46AA-4AD1-8E3E-8E06ECE31E8E.png
I would get a foot pedal and start with the 14cfm nozzle they offer then adjust from there.
 

Walkers

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That is an excellent example! Thank you for sharing. This gives me hope that I could get by with a 5hp set up.

This is the cabinet I’m looking at. I need top load as it’s going to sandwiched in between a big tool box and an arbor press. The clam shell designs pivot backward so I wouldn’t be able to put it flush up against the wall.

FC8624D0-46AA-4AD1-8E3E-8E06ECE31E8E.png
When you have enough air a steel gas can should take less than 10 minutes. 60 psi for blasting is below what mine will run at when my tank air is gone and I am running on the pump (about 78 psi). 90 psi is what you want for efficient blasting.
 

Jswain

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When you have enough air a steel gas can should take less than 10 minutes. 60 psi for blasting is below what mine will run at when my tank air is gone and I am running on the pump (about 78 psi). 90 psi is what you want for efficient blasting.
When you have enough money you can just buy all new parts instead of sandblasting anything. Doesn't mean you can't DIY in your garage with a 5hp compressor.

I missed the part where he was opening up a sandblasting business

"Mostly for small machine tool and bicycle/motorcycle restoration"
 

GeoBruin

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Are you using a pressure pot? I googled skat blast gun and it said it’s siphon feed, so i guess im not understanding how your set up is different from a siphon feed.

Im looking at a cyclone blast cabinet and they offer a 14 CFM gun and then the next size up is 25 CFM. That surprised me that there was such a large gap. I figured I was going to have to tinker with the air and nozzle to find a happy spot. I have a lathe so that shouldn’t be too big of an issue.

Yikes! This is what I hear from time to time that makes me question if the 5 HP is really enough. I would definitely not want a 12”x12” plate to be frustrating. With a 7.5 hp motor that surprises me. Is the media worn out, or is it because of the paint? I’ve noticed some restorers strip paint with chemicals and the sandblast to get the rust. While I’m currently stripping paint chemically right now, it would be nice if the blast cabinet could handle that work. Even if I have to use 2 different medias for paint removal and surface conditioning.
Are you using a pressure pot? I googled skat blast gun and it said it’s siphon feed, so i guess im not understanding how your set up is different from a siphon feed.
It is a siphon gun, but I don't just have the siphon hose stuck down in the media in the hopper. I have it connected to a valve that I have affixed to the drain at the bottom of the hopper that allows me to adjust the mixture of media flowing in from the hopper and air from outside.

Here's a picture of the valve. Also, here's a link to a short video of buddy of mine blasting an old vise with my setup.
 

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Walkers

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When you have enough money you can just buy all new parts instead of sandblasting anything. Doesn't mean you can't DIY in your garage with a 5hp compressor.

I missed the part where he was opening up a sandblasting business

"Mostly for small machine tool and bicycle/motorcycle restoration"
There is not enough money for me to spend an hour sandblasting a gas can! Sandblasting is one of the most boring, frustrating jobs out there. At an hour to blast, it pays for a brand new Wavian can shipped to my door. If I cant do it under 10-15 minutes, then my sandblasted and painted can cost more than new
 

Jswain

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There is not enough money for me to spend an hour sandblasting a gas can! Sandblasting is one of the most boring, frustrating jobs out there. At an hour to blast, it pays for a brand new Wavian can shipped to my door. If I cant do it under 10-15 minutes, then my sandblasted and painted can cost more than new
It's lucrative enough for him that he's paid me to do ~ 50-60 cans but whatever floats your boat homie

The gas can was for a size reference which I'm guessing are larger then most(perhaps not all) parts that he will be blasting. As a hobbyist yes his setup will work

Also I said between 30 mins and 45, not an hour. There are a LOT of people running blast cabinets with 1, 5hp compressor, you acting like it's impossible is quite hilarious
 

PoorUB

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I know a guy that did a lot of blasting with a 3 HP compressor.

Keep in mind you are not running air constantly. You blast a bit, stop, move the part around and start blasting again. Like the other posts, run a 14 CFM nozzle that should be about what the compressor will supply. A 5 HP might run constantly, but it will do it. Also, unless the OP is trying to make money blasting parts, go with the smaller unit and take a break every few minutes. A 5 HP will work fine for a hobbyist situation.
 

Walkers

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It's lucrative enough for him that he's paid me to do ~ 50-60 cans but whatever floats your boat homie

The gas can was for a size reference which I'm guessing are larger then most(perhaps not all) parts that he will be blasting. As a hobbyist yes his setup will work

Also I said between 30 mins and 45, not an hour. There are a LOT of people running blast cabinets with 1, 5hp compressor, you acting like it's impossible is quite hilarious
I never said impossible, I said frustrating. I have done it, I know. I also said boring, and if you can argue that spending 45 minutes in front of a blast cabinet on a single gas can is fun, then..,then I’m not sure what. I have done Wavian cans too, and so long as it is factory paint they are relatively easy, 10 minutes tops with a full 90 psi and a 1/4” nozzle. A new can is 90 bucks give or take. Shop time is a wee bit over 2 bucks a minute . 45 minutes is a new can. Certainly hobby guys can fudge the numbers to whatever makes them happy, but I stand 45 minutes to blast a gas can is wayyyyy to long.
 

Jswain

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I never said impossible, I said frustrating. I have done it, I know. I also said boring, and if you can argue that spending 45 minutes in front of a blast cabinet on a single gas can is fun, then..,then I’m not sure what. I have done Wavian cans too, and so long as it is factory paint they are relatively easy, 10 minutes tops with a full 90 psi and a 1/4” nozzle. A new can is 90 bucks give or take. Shop time is a wee bit over 2 bucks a minute . 45 minutes is a new can. Certainly hobby guys can fudge the numbers to whatever makes them happy, but I stand 45 minutes to blast a gas can is wayyyyy to long.
Your shop labor @ $120+ / hr vs what I charge working on the side out of the garage in my house on my days off is a huge difference. I don't have overhead, it's not my primary source of income

You also keep taking the larger of my numbers and acting like they all take that much time. I said 30-45 minutes, 90% of them fall in the 30 minute mark but the paint on them vary a lot and some of them, usually painted red come off in 20 or less.

He turns them into these and sells them to locals/shops/bars etc. And looking back through my photos I'd guess I've done closer to 100 of them and he keeps coming back for more
 

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Walkers

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Your shop labor @ $120+ / hr vs what I charge working on the side out of the garage in my house on my days off is a huge difference. I don't have overhead, it's not my primary source of income

You also keep taking the larger of my numbers and acting like they all take that much time. I said 30-45 minutes, 90% of them fall in the 30 minute mark but the paint on them vary a lot and some of them, usually painted red come off in 20 or less.

He turns them into these and sells them to locals/shops/bars etc. And looking back through my photos I'd guess I've done closer to 100 of them and he keeps coming back for more

I see, not really selling gas cans. Even if they were new cans they would still need to be blasted because of all the cutting and welding. Using the 45 minute mark was easy because the math worked out well with the shop rate.. If I had used 37.5 minutes and $2.08 per minute it isn’t quite as clean. The only point I have been trying to make is that it would take a third of the time if you had enough air. I have spent enough time in front of that blast cabinet that I no longer want to spend an extra minute if I can avoid it.
 

alfadan

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I just got a free HF cabinet setup with an IR 60gal 5hp compressor. At 60psi at the gun, it runs about every 6-7 minutes with no breaks. I did put a box fan behind the pump and motor as a shits-per-giggles precaution. Works well enough for a hobbyist.
 
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VoodooCLD

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I just got a free HF cabinet setup with an IR 60gal 5hp compressor. At 60psi at the gun, it runs about every 6-7 minutes with no breaks. I did put a box fan behind the pump and motor as a shits-per-giggles precaution. Works well enough for a hobbyist.
What is the model number? I’ve noticed they don’t typically put true 5hp motors and dual stage pumps on 60 gallon tanks.
 

Jswain

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I see, not really selling gas cans. Even if they were new cans they would still need to be blasted because of all the cutting and welding. Using the 45 minute mark was easy because the math worked out well with the shop rate.. If I had used 37.5 minutes and $2.08 per minute it isn’t quite as clean. The only point I have been trying to make is that it would take a third of the time if you had enough air. I have spent enough time in front of that blast cabinet that I no longer want to spend an extra minute if I can avoid it.
Yes but not everybody who buys a tool is buying it for commercial use.

Do you change wheels Nascar style?

There is going to be VERY little difference in the real world if a DIY guy gets a 5hp compressor vs 2 of them, or 1 7.5hp using the sandblaster occasionally. 95% of the time it will be grossly overkill
 

dnschmidt

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I love the choice of compressor but you might want to step up to the 7.5 version. Determine the price difference and if you can swing it that's how I'd go. The golden rule of air compressors: BIGGER IS ALWAYS BETTER.
 

NakeDiesel

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Here is my experience, I have the Eaton 7.5 HP compressor that I bought 15+ years ago and an air chiller to remove moisture out of the compressed air. I lived in South Carolina when I purchased this combination to sand blast a 69 camaro body and frame, I needed the chiller there and really need it in OK as well where I live now. I've worn the components out twice on my 100lb pressure pot with various blasting projects over those years. The Eaton hums along and just recently had to change the auto drain and the the unloader valve.

My compressor is in an insulated small room with storage for all my painting, carbon fiber chemicals, fiberglass chemicals and painting equipment and was having to keep the door open to keep the room cooler in the summer. Last year I added a vent fan up high to push air out of the room and draw it in down low. This is on the north side of my shop so works well in the summer. The other thing I did was added in PVC lines with 2 - 1" valves to draw air for the compressor inside the shop in the winter and a 2" valve to draw air from outside in the summer with a 3" auto cheap air filter on the outside of my shop with a rain cover I built out of aluminum sheeting and pop rivets. Has work well for temp control in that room.

51750322082_7fbe0e5a1d_c.jpg

Last winter I added a blasting cabinet to my shop from from Cyclone, I went with their 14cfm nozzle with foot pedal operation. I chose the clamshell design and then built a cart for it to roll around in my shop or get it out of the way when not using it. I'm restoring a tractor and use my cherry picker to load large axle housings or other 100+ lb parts into it to blast and works really well with the clamshell design.

51788810611_0f1787c376_c.jpg

Get the 7.5 Eaton with the ability to continuously run it option is my advice.
 

larry4406

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I vote go large 7.5HP - 20+ cfm.

Once you make the commitment to buy a large compressor, the incremental difference from 5 to 7.5 hp is not large.
 

Doubled33

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I have an industrial cabinet with a nozzle rated at 20 cfm according to the book. I use glass beads almost all the time. I had a Curtis E57 pump on a 5 HP motor for quite a while And it would hold its own. I should also mention it ran through a refrigerated dryer. I blasted around 90 psi and it would run constantly. After about 10 to 15 mins of continuous blasting I would have to stop for a few minutes to let it catch up.

All in all it worked OK especially for a home setup.

I also used another set up for a lot of years which was a 5hp Kellog and another cabinet that was around 20 cfm. I found this setup to run out of air a little sooner than the above one. It was not connected to a dryer. I was blasting a lot at this time and ultimately had a diesel compressor plumbed in with about 150 cfm so no more issues.
 

milkovich

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For a while I was making money on the side restoring old 14 and 15 inch wheels, generally bead blasting aluminum to leave a nice new finish on them. All I have is a 5hp Campbell commercial compressor (80 gal 16.6 cfm) and I never had any problems sitting around waiting for air. I use a cheapo blasting cabinet I upgraded with a foot pedal and 14cfm style gun. I wouldn't open a blasting business but it made me money and it's more than enough for restoring old junk.
 
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VoodooCLD

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Here is my experience, I have the Eaton 7.5 HP compressor that I bought 15+ years ago and an air chiller to remove moisture out of the compressed air. I lived in South Carolina when I purchased this combination to sand blast a 69 camaro body and frame, I needed the chiller there and really need it in OK as well where I live now. I've worn the components out twice on my 100lb pressure pot with various blasting projects over those years. The Eaton hums along and just recently had to change the auto drain and the the unloader valve.

My compressor is in an insulated small room with storage for all my painting, carbon fiber chemicals, fiberglass chemicals and painting equipment and was having to keep the door open to keep the room cooler in the summer. Last year I added a vent fan up high to push air out of the room and draw it in down low. This is on the north side of my shop so works well in the summer. The other thing I did was added in PVC lines with 2 - 1" valves to draw air for the compressor inside the shop in the winter and a 2" valve to draw air from outside in the summer with a 3" auto cheap air filter on the outside of my shop with a rain cover I built out of aluminum sheeting and pop rivets. Has work well for temp control in that room.

51750322082_7fbe0e5a1d_c.jpg

Last winter I added a blasting cabinet to my shop from from Cyclone, I went with their 14cfm nozzle with foot pedal operation. I chose the clamshell design and then built a cart for it to roll around in my shop or get it out of the way when not using it. I'm restoring a tractor and use my cherry picker to load large axle housings or other 100+ lb parts into it to blast and works really well with the clamshell design.

51788810611_0f1787c376_c.jpg

Get the 7.5 Eaton with the ability to continuously run it option is my advice.
This sounds very similar to what I’ll be doing. I’m in Oklahoma as well and will be installing the compressor in a closet next to my dust collector for wood working. Why did you go with a 14 CFM gun on the blast cabinet when your compressor should be putting out significantly more?
 
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VoodooCLD

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Turns out I may not even be able to fit the 7.5 hp. My closet is smaller than I realized. I’m trying to get a hold of Eaton so I can get some more specific dimensions. 6D197826-9085-4A02-97A9-14D5BE964EFA.jpeg
 

Crabman

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Voodoo

I have an older TP Skat Blast cabinet, like 34 inches. I used my old Powermate (Sanborn) 5hp (loud as hell) and it would need to catch up once in a while if I was doing a lot of parts.

But if smaller bike and motorcycle stuff is what you are doing you will be ok with 5hp I think.

As noted by Geobruin, the nozzle size will be an important factor.

Good luck finding a setup that works for your needs.
 

NakeDiesel

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This sounds very similar to what I’ll be doing. I’m in Oklahoma as well and will be installing the compressor in a closet next to my dust collector for wood working. Why did you go with a 14 CFM gun on the blast cabinet when your compressor should be putting out significantly more?
I choose 14cfm gun to not push at the upper end of what my compressor could handle and with more than just me working in there at times, could be running plasma torch or any number of other air tools at the same time on occasion.
 

imagineer

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I have a Husky 5hp and a homemade blast cabinet. IMO, the 5hp compressor does struggle to keep up if I'm doing a lot of blasting.

I started with a Coleman blast gun but it wore thru a while back. The current blast gun is one of these:


and it performs ok.

I did make an improved pick up tube based on this, and the difference is significant:

 

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Jswain

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I have a Husky 5hp and a homemade blast cabinet. IMO, the 5hp compressor does struggle to keep up if I'm doing a lot of blasting.

I started with a Coleman blast gun but it wore thru a while back. The current blast gun is one of these:


and it performs ok.

I did make an improved pick up tube based on this, and the difference is significant:

That cabinet is awesome, but your compressor is likely a "5hp" cough 3hp
 

Jswain

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Nope, it's actually a 7hp...and it still doesn't keep up under continuous blasting.
That's what the sticker says, but I'd guess it draws ~ 15amps and produces ~ 12-14cfm at 125psi.

He's looking more at 21-22amp 18cfm @ 175psi type 5hp compressors
 

dnschmidt

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Every time these conversations come up I think of BIG *** FANS. Well, sadly when air compressors and sandblasting are used in the same sentence YOU NEED A BIG *** AIR COMPRESSOR. That would be a 7 1/2HP 80 gallon two stage. Yea, I know some geniuses out there say that they can do it with a nail gun compressor (lying bastards) but Physics has never given a **** about what you can afford and never will.
 

F-22

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What about a rotary air compressor? Are they much more expensive? I think sandblasting is ideal use case for those, and they're more quiet, but I don't know how common they are where you live (here in Europe I think it's what many mechanics and workshops go for, and something basic is 2-3k). Also I think they're much more reliable, piston compressors just have way more parts. I think the problemis they won't reach high pressures like a two stage piston compressor, but tbf anything above 100psi generally isn't important and they give way more volume.
 

Doubled33

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CA/HI
What about a rotary air compressor? Are they much more expensive? I think sandblasting is ideal use case for those, and they're more quiet, but I don't know how common they are where you live (here in Europe I think it's what many mechanics and workshops go for, and something basic is 2-3k). Also I think they're much more reliable, piston compressors just have way more parts. I think the problemis they won't reach high pressures like a two stage piston compressor, but tbf anything above 100psi generally isn't important and they give way more volume.
I did a lot of reading on here and made my conclusion that for home use they are not the best. The general consensus is they don’t get used enough to heat up and burn off moisture. This leads to rust and pits and water in the oil and is not good. There are different types of drives for these “rotary” compressors and some seem more reasonable to repair if an issue arises.

The last one is the power usage. When you turn it on it is sucking power until it goes off. From my understanding the smaller units don’t cycle. Maybe there are some that do, but in my own review I found none that did.
 
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