f150skidoo Pusher Box Build

[f150skidoo]

So I'm in a need of a pusher box blade for plowing snow this coming winter for commercial parking lots. I thought about purchasing a pre-manufactured box but whats the fun in that. This box blade will have a steel cutting edge with a spring trip mechanism, and the SSQA (skid steer quick attach) plate will float independently from the blade I know its early to think about winter but I want to build this right the first time instead of rushing the build to get it done because theirs snow in the forecast.

Normally when I do a build thread like my 5'x8' dump trailer or stump grapple I built it entirely off the top of my head. but since the blade is all curves and some parts of the build I'm outsourcing I had to do a drawing and make templates to make sure everything will work. I had a local fab shop bump bend 3/16" steel to the shape of the moldboard.

 

[f150skidoo]

I picked up 2 4'x8' sheets of 1/4" plate to plasma cut all the parts from. First part was to make the lower gussets that spans the full 8' of the blade, this part alone has 27' of cuts done with the plasma. All the inside radius corners I used the mag drill with a 1.5" annular cutter then just used a straight edge to connect the dots. Next part to cut was center moldboard ribs that connect to the Q/A plate (quick attach). I still need to chip off the dross then run the flap disk to clean up all the edges.

 

[LXCam]

Just getting in line for another kickass project. Looking forwards to it coming together bud.

 

[WhiffySpark]

How far is the plate going to be from the moldboard? Just curious we use protech and

 

[f150skidoo]

So lots more plasma cutting today, didn't take as many pics as before. Finished cutting the last rib then plasma cut the two 36"x36" side plates. Next was to cut the parts for the Q/A plate like the end caps for the tube, also cut out the plate for the part that pins on to the skid steer.

 

[f150skidoo]

How far is the plate going to be from the moldboard? Just curious we use protech and

The moldboard is going to be 20" from the Q/A plate, I wanted it for more reach when stacking snow.

 

[f150skidoo]

So I fabricated the quick attach mount today which will float independently from the blade. I bent the 1/4" plate paws on my press brake Then tacked up the plate for a test fit which was a flawless fit, next was to weld everything out. After the Q/A plate was done I spend a couple of hours with a flap disk on the grinder to clean up the plasma cut edges, didn't take any pics of that since it would be boring.

 

[raddksn]

going to follow this, looks great so far!

 

[f150skidoo]

So today was a picture heavy day. First thing was to tack up the middle supporting ribs then the bottom skeleton gusset. Since the blade was in the flat position it was a opportune time to weld it out.

 

[f150skidoo]

After welding out the ribs to the moldboard i had to take the blade out of the shop to work on the side plates. The only problem was the blade is wider then the garage door, but with a little maneuvering it got out. On the side plates I had to use one of my favourite tools to drill six 9/16" holes for mounting the adjustable skid shoes. At the end of the day I tacked on the first side plate to the moldboard. positioning the side plates to where I want is kind of a PITA since they weigh 80lbs each.

 

[WhiffySpark]

Looks pretty good. You may want to add some square tubing in the middle section for bracing. Are you going rubber or steel edge?

I'm not trying to pick on your design just some suggestions. I've been doing snow since I started driving and before that my family took care of the Air Force base where Air Force one is.

One of our sites has 2 18 foot push boxes and a 20 ft plow. Awesome to see lol. They stack snow up and then we use rock trucks to dump it on site.

 

[f150skidoo]

For the cutting edge I'm doing steel with a trip edge. In the middle section I'm going to add a piece of plate on the top as a step for getting into the machine. Then their will be a X brace in the middle for my lateral float mechanism. Their will also be big gussets between the mold board and side plates.

 

[WhiffySpark]

All of ours are rubber. We've even started using rubber blades on the plow trucks as well. They seem to clean okay we may use a little more salt, but less damage. We have one site that is littered with man covers and they would break at least one edge a storm.

I would like to try an artic sectional one day

 

[MichaelBikel]

This is one of the cooler things I have seen on this site, that's some serious ingenuity right there!

 

[f150skidoo]

After I got the side plates tacked on it was time to fabricate the gussets. Used some MDF for my templates, which was a good thing since it took me 3 tries to get the angles right. I wanted to take the pusher outside to double check that the gussets were identical. So it was easier to lift the table out side with the blade on it, combined weight probably is around 2000 lbs. I had to cut up a bunch of pieces of plate for the step so my Miller plasma is certainly a priceless tool.

 

[LXCam]

Damn, that's a **** load of steel right there. Excellent job as always bud.

 

[bimmer1980]

I've been following this build with interest! Nice work as always.

I'm thinking about a modification to my skid steer bucket for the small amount of snow work that I do. For those that are using rubber for the cutting edge, where do you buy it, and how big is a typical rubber cutting edge?

I will be curious to see how this works for you this winter. We're looking for some action shots!

I did see a youtube video this weekend of a snow pusher that was hydraulic angle change and had hydraulic side wings. Pretty neat...

FYI on some ideas......

 

[f150skidoo]

Little update...................... I bought a new welder, Its a Lincoln 210 MP. The new welder is definitely a more powerful welder then the old Hobart Handler 190. Its nice to have a extra 30 amps and a lot more duty cycle room.

 

[f150skidoo]

I finally have had a weekend to do some more work to the pusher box. My 9 day old Lincoln decided to stop working, so I'm not a very happy person right now. Monday morning I'm going to return this ************* and buy something different.

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

 

[readhead]

Top notch work as usual. You're wasting your time on bricks and blocks. But I'm guessing you're pretty good at that also.

 

[C_F]

No idea how I missed this thread until now, but I'm sure liking your project!

BTW, do ALL your metal projects have a minimum weight of a ton?

 

[f150skidoo]

No idea how I missed this thread until now, but I'm sure liking your project!

BTW, do ALL your metal projects have a minimum weight of a ton?

nope, but just the ones I post here do.

 

[f150skidoo]

I'm definitely having having one of those weekends. First thing was the welder not working, So I went over to my brothers property to clear some trees and I blew a hydraulic line on my grapple bucket. Now I couldn't do much but fabricate parts that don't require a welder which isn't very much. I started to tackle the pivoting mechanism, the weld in tube is 3" 3/8" wall DOM with a 2.25" pin that was turned down to fit the tubing's ID. Next was to make the pivoting mount on the Q/A part, I drilled a 3" hole in the 1/4" plate with the trusty drill press then bent the plate in the press brake.

 

[csp]

Thread title had me thinking the skidoo was needing a push from an F150 or vice versa.

 

[f150skidoo]

So I got my welder issued resolved, They gave me a new one. Since today was a rain day I was able to get some welding done. I started to tackle the pivoting mounts for the blades float. The two vertical tubes are 2.5" .25" wall tube and I bent some plate to box in the middle section for the DOM tube support.

 

[f150skidoo]

I also welded in the pivot support that I bent up yesterday on the Q/A plate. Once that was complete I was able to weld in the DOM sleeve.

 

[f150skidoo]

I had some more time today, So I was worried if I curled the cylinders to put down pressure on the blade I would bend the lower skeleton frame were it mounts to the H frame pivot mount. I put two large gussets to tie the H frame to the top plate. The main pivot pin will have a 1/2" bolt on the one end and welded collar on the other to retain the pin. I welded a piece of the 3" DOM to the pin with a little pre-heat and 3 passes it was nice to see I got the 2.25" pin blue hot. The pin is also drilled/cross drilled for greasing. I test fitted the Q/A plate to make sure everything fits the way I wanted before I weld anything out. I'm going to plate both side of the H frame to stiffen up that area. Also the stops for the float are going to be the last thing I weld on so I can rotate the blade 360 degrees for positioning.

 

[f150skidoo]

Well this week seems to be making up for the lack of rain we had all summer long. Didn't get a whole lot completed this afternoon but did get the pivot completed. Fist was to weld in the DOM tube into the Q/A plate. Next was to cut down the pivot pin and drill a 1/2" hole for the retaining bolt. As many of you know cross drilling round objects can be a PITA. This inexpensive USA made center finder tool made drilling the DOM tube & pin accurately a breeze, the bolt fit perfectly in the holes.

 

[C_F]

I'm not sure I understand how the centering tool works. I mean, I can see how it would find center, but where does the drill bit work into the equation?

Your project sure does look stout as hell, nice work!

 

[Fcvapor05]

I'm not sure I understand how the centering tool works. I mean, I can see how it would find center, but where does the drill bit work into the equation?

Your project sure does look stout as hell, nice work!

You set up your cut with the tool, then clamp your workpiece in place and replace the tool with a bit and cut away.

 

[C_F]

You set up your cut with the tool, then clamp your workpiece in place and replace the tool with a bit and cut away.

Ah-ha! Totally makes sense. He just didn't show it clamped, so I was going...

Thanks, man.

 

[f150skidoo]

Ah-ha! Totally makes sense. He just didn't show it clamped, so I was going...

Thanks, man.

Look again its in a milling vise.

 

[f150skidoo]

So I finally had a long weekend of more progress. It was certainly nice to be able lift the blade up and rotate it to weld in the flat position at a nice comfortable work height.

 

[f150skidoo]

Next part was to tackle the trip mechanism It took a lot of time to make all the brackets (didn't take a pic of all of them). The way it works is when the cutting edge hits a object the blade folds back. But the 4 brackets with 2 holes push a piece of tube upwards which holds the 2 springs per side.

 

[C_F]

Look again its in a milling vise.

Sure enough. I failed to open the photo to the largest setting initially. I guess it was the straight on photo angle that got me. But it's clear to me now.

I like your trip mechanism design, looks like it will work perfectly.

 

[RonRock]

Tell me a bit more about that center finder. Like where can I get one.

Cheers,
Ron

 

[f150skidoo]

Tell me a bit more about that center finder. Like where can I get one.

Cheers,
Ron

Its PEC brand which is made in USA, I paid $21.70 CDN but would probably be cheaper on the American KBC website.

http://www.kbctools.ca/products/MEA...FINDERS/WIGGLER @@26 CENTER FINDERS/6108.aspx

 

[f150skidoo]

Bunch more progress this weekend picked up the final little bit of material for the blade and the 5/8"x6" cutting edge. First thing was to finish welding out the trip edge part. Next was to fabricate the sprung portion on the trip mechanism. The guide for the push rod is just 2" 3/16" wall tube. The bracket for the tensioner bolts is just 1/4" plate that's been bent up and welded too the 1.5" push rods tube. To test the trip edge I clamped two 32" long 3/4" pipe clamps to the edge and was barely able to get to trip. But the little bit it did move it snapped back to close with a lot of force, and that's only with 2 of the 4 springs that weren't tensioned properly either.

 

[f150skidoo]

Next was to fabricate the lateral float stops, The stops are made of 2" .188" tube that will hit the tube of the Q/A plate and limit the blades float. The blade will have 4" of vertical travel over the entire 8' blade width. On the Q/A plate I welded on some 2" tube that will rube against the float limiter frame to help reduce the stress on the center pin.

 

[C_F]

It's looking good!

Man, if my welds looked half as good as yours, I'd be a happy man.