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lilscorpion

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Mar 15, 2010
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Colorado
Shifted back to the JK this weekend. Need to get the interior back together. I’ve been putting of mounting the tweeters in the dash and you’re about to learn why. The 2014 came with these really fancy tombstone tweeter mounts. When I test drive it, I thought they were kinda cool. Unbeknownst to me, no one makes adapters for them. You’re about to see the $1000 theater adapter build…

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Used some 1/8” aluminum to make some tombstone faceplates.

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Fairly fast op, 2 passes.

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Pocket is the OD of the speaker +.030

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I bought 12” of tube that’s the perfect ID for the speakers. About .065 wall.

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Only needed about 1/2” of it.

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Machined a recess in the tombstone faceplate so the tube would auto-locate.

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Thought I’d just weld in 2 spots on the OD until I realized that I’d have to clearance the speaker opening in the dash I’m weird unpredictable spots if I do it this way.

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Ok, take 2. I need to find a way to get the heat into the tube and not as much in the face plate. Figured I’d try this - cut two slots in the tube where I’ll focus the heat initially

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Then weld from the inside and the work the puddle out towards the edge of the face plate.

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lilscorpion

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Turned out much better. Was much easier to control the puddle this way..

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Used the lathe to clean up the inside

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Just enough so the speaker would again fit

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The speaker has a single threaded but in the rear of it for retention so I relieved the tube so I could inset a tan

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I free handed the tabs on the bandsaw as well as the hole with a hand drill.

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And a little weld to keep it all together.

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Metal finished it up and and gave them a coating to match the other accessories in the jeep.

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Modified the face plate program to make a few retainer plates that will get rivnuts. This will make installing the brackets much easier since I can barely get my fingers in there.

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lilscorpion

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Now to the install. I need to open up the hole in the tombstones to the OD of the tubing. Decided to modify the faceplate so it was the OD all the way through.

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Mount it like the speaker bracket and I can see where I need to remove plastic. large fingers make it nearly impossible to hang on to the bracket inside the dash. I dropped it and had to fish it out with a magnet 3 times before realizing I could use electrical tape as a leash.

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Got it in like 2 seconds. LOL

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Little flapper wheel and I can use the bracket as the guide and not worry about over cutting.

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The result is a perfect hole.

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Now all that’s left is to drop in the speakers.
After getting the screws started, a ought pull and the leash pops off.

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Tighten up the screw and presto.

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There you go - $1000 tweeter brackets. What made them take so much time is how many I had to make in order to figure out how to make them. 🤪

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Turned out cool even tho. Thanks for following along.

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lilscorpion

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Approaching another sweet 16. Planning on celebrating my daughters milestone the only way I know how…

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We have just barely more than a year to make it proper-like my style. This build is starting way different with different goals.

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Learning from my sons LJ build, you can’t buy something with a gutless motor and hope to later polish the turd pile of ponies into the power you really need to turn meats like I want to use. Better bet is to come out of the gate ready…this one is good to go with a 2006-2008 era hemi. Swap was done by a shop and they did a nice job. I might have done a few of the things differently (ghetto fab accessory adapter brackets all painted) but otherwise it’s clean. Funny thing about a motor like this is casual driving is considerably different than when it kicks down in a skinny pedal smash. Holy snot…I am wondering if it’s a little much for a new driver. Guess I can always reprogram it to short shift. There’s options.

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Fan has been a problem for the previous owner(s) and has been replace by a plane Jane aftermarket unit that doesn’t fit the cleanliness of the build.

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need to pull some measurements but Ike hoping I can use something like a 90’s Ford Tarus fan which has dual speeds and an integrated fan shroud. This radiator however looks visibly taller than I remember the Tarus shroud being so we’ll have to see.

After buying a new rig I always give it a once-over to see if I can catch any PO oversights that may end up landing me on the side of the road. Just this quick pass has saved my **** serious pain and holds me over until I start taking it apart. In this case, found only one thing - a radiator hood down washer was eating into the side tank. Clipped one side and now have sufficient clearance.

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This begins the next adventure. Happy Saturday all!
 

Wiz02

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Joined
Jul 13, 2007
Messages
2,399
Location
Southeastern PA
Approaching another sweet 16. Planning on celebrating my daughters milestone the only way I know how…

B7A83B5D-4738-4032-8B7E-C89B8646A9B3.jpeg

We have just barely more than a year to make it proper-like my style. This build is starting way different with different goals.

36BC6F66-38A1-4B03-900E-1CC9F571262F.jpeg

Learning from my sons LJ build, you can’t buy something with a gutless motor and hope to later polish the turd pile of ponies into the power you really need to turn meats like I want to use. Better bet is to come out of the gate ready…this one is good to go with a 2006-2008 era hemi. Swap was done by a shop and they did a nice job. I might have done a few of the things differently (ghetto fab accessory adapter brackets all painted) but otherwise it’s clean. Funny thing about a motor like this is casual driving is considerably different than when it kicks down in a skinny pedal smash. Holy snot…I am wondering if it’s a little much for a new driver. Guess I can always reprogram it to short shift. There’s options.

7873BA5F-6BAE-45A6-9CB1-6CFF28BD08E2.jpeg

Fan has been a problem for the previous owner(s) and has been replace by a plane Jane aftermarket unit that doesn’t fit the cleanliness of the build.

CECDD0FE-4CBD-452D-AED7-ACFDC14F6578.jpeg

need to pull some measurements but Ike hoping I can use something like a 90’s Ford Tarus fan which has dual speeds and an integrated fan shroud. This radiator however looks visibly taller than I remember the Tarus shroud being so we’ll have to see.

After buying a new rig I always give it a once-over to see if I can catch any PO oversights that may end up landing me on the side of the road. Just this quick pass has saved my **** serious pain and holds me over until I start taking it apart. In this case, found only one thing - a radiator hood down washer was eating into the side tank. Clipped one side and now have sufficient clearance.

B4FECD60-DD4F-43AF-B6ED-80076F67F29E.jpeg

This begins the next adventure. Happy Saturday all!
Hope your daughter has more restraint than most new teenage drivers. I would have that thing wrapped around a tree or something equally stupid at that age.
 
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lilscorpion

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So here I am, sitting in the SLOWEST emissions line waiting to see if the now supercharged JK will pass emissions…

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Normally I’d not be as freaked out as I am. Freaking dash is lit up. Hoping the person running mine gets only one light matters (check engine). Was really hoping to have the clockspring done first but it isn’t in the cards. Guess we’ll find out soon enough.

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lilscorpion

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Failed…we’ll sorta. Apparently some of the monitors weren’t ready because my “mechanic” unhooked the battery recently (I did not know that was an issue before e-testing).

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Ok, fun question - how can I tell when it is ready so I don’t sit in lines every day until has a sufficient amount of data? I have a scanner just don’t know what values they’re looking at.
 

rattle_snake

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Jun 25, 2015
Messages
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Location
Chandler, AZ
You can view the 'readiness' options as part of most scanners. Torque apps has it.

I do before I take my cobra through, as it always has one not ready. a catalytic or something :unsure:

You can have one or two not ready's depending on vehicle year (at least here in AZ).
 
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lilscorpion

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Messages
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Colorado
You can view the 'readiness' options as part of most scanners. Torque apps has it.

I do before I take my cobra through, as it always has one not ready. a catalytic or something :unsure:

You can have one or two not ready's depending on vehicle year (at least here in AZ).
Found it on both my cheapie and not so cheapie scanners. Guess it’s the I/M Readiness function. I see the ones that they’re barking about (e.g. Catalyst Mon). Guess I need to drive until they’re set. ***** a bit, ever since the SC I get an occasional misfire. I speculate that it only happens when it’s cold but can’t prove it yet. Guess I’ll dive it and see if I can get them to clear before I see another

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What the ladies told me at the test place is they typically just run them on the dyno when they get this condition but since I’m on 37’s
They can’t. Bummer.
 

zmotorsports

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Northern Utah
Like Justin said, you can go in and check the readiness monitors to see which ones have been satisfied. Most scanners have either "monitors", "readiness checks", "emissions readiness", "I/M Readiness" or some similar terminology to see if they have all set. The EVAP and EGR usually take the longest but a couple 50~ish or so miles of various driving conditions along with cruising speeds usually is enough to set them.
 
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gearhead1960

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Manassas, VA, a small blot in history
Years ago when Japan had the Tsunami, it took out one of Toyota's parts suppliers. My mom's Camry had an emissions part go bad and the CEL would come on. It didn't affect the actual emmisions, just set off the CEL. Well the $12 part wasn't available due to the Tsunami and likely was never going to be. My strategy was to unplugged the battery, which turned off the CEL. Drove it about an 1/2 hour and went to the emissions station for testing. It always passed......
 
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lilscorpion

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What yo work on today…need the oven done so I got after it. Now I have never turned it on since I bought it off of Facebook. Might as well
Find out if it’s junk and save myself some time if it is. Needed to keep the lower oven lock and a few of the other accessories or the controller would t power up

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Tried to fire it up and it immediately said it was at temperature even though the coils hadn’t heated up. Turns out an optimization I thought made sense didn’t…I wired a single probe into both of the probe circuits (both the upper and eve lower). Didn’t work.

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Once I wired them independently, the oven worked correctly. Had to make a mounting plate for them to cover up the hole where the broiler coil used to go.

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Next I mounted the second coil. The double oven controller supported a coil in each of the ovens but in this case, I’ll use them together to heat up the much larger interrior.

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Tested the oven to 400. It took 20 minutes to get the triple oven up to temp.

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To be fair, the door doesn’t have the insulation yet.

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Last step was to add insulation and the galvanized skins to retain the insulation. That’s it for now. Now I can coat my tie rod.

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Jayman17

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I can’t believe you converted three ovens into one large oven and it works! Very well done.
That’s pretty clever. :thumbup: Now you can bake some extra long baguettes....

Jay
 
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lilscorpion

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Any chance you can break out the powder coat oven info into a separate thread?

Your oven looks quite clever.
I’ll see what I can do. I didn’t take a ton of pics, kinda just got after it with the saw and it just came together. I think one good choice made blindly just allowed it to work out.
I can’t believe you converted three ovens into one large oven and it works! Very well done.
That’s pretty clever. :thumbup: Now you can bake some extra long baguettes....

Jay

Technically it was only 2 ovens. One was a double. Interesting enough tho, when you take apart a double oven it’s really 2 singles with some spacers to make room for the lower oven’s electronic. Never would have guessed it.

I wasn’t sure it would work but it turns out an oven is fairly simple. Not sure I’d bake bread in this oven. When I got it up to temp yesterday it was burning off some of the crud that was inside. I still haven’t gotten the smell out of the garage. Will be good for powder coating tho. ☠️
 
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rattle_snake

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I put in the ones they sent me. Could my Mis-fire be related? Say no, they’re all buried under the blower casing.
Perhaps. Does it buck or jerk when cold? Cold plugs will do that when engine is cold, as it hasn't built enough heat to fire mixture reliably.
I'm guessing the ones with kit are only one range down and won't show issue.

I went 3 steps cold from an already boosted application (more boost + nitrous) and get some bucking in 1st half mile or so.
 
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lilscorpion

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Hm. Yes. It will buck if I back it out of the drive and immediately head up the street. Maybe only a few times. I’ve been letting it fully warm up before driving since the emissions fail and not had a buck. Interesting…
 
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lilscorpion

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Had a little time today so I got after the running gear for the large oven. I ordered these 8” casters if did Amazon. Locks are important.

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Since the box is made out of plywood I figured instead of just bolting them to the bottom I’d add a bade that would help distribute the load a bit better. Used some 4” x 4” x .125 aluminum angle I had on the shelf. Machined a matching bolt pattern as was on the wheels.

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Then made a corresponding jamb plate for the inside.

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The jamb plate will have rivnuts so I won’t have to mess with individual nuts and washers. The bottom of the oven cabinet will have a drawer in the bottom and the drawer slides will have enough clearance to clear them.

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Lighting in the shop made it freakin impossible to take a pick of the parts in the oven. This is the first batch in the new oven. The wheel rails are 24” long making them now the longest parts I’ve ever coated.

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Interestingly enough, for whatever reason, the finish ended up nearly perfect. The new oven seems to be a little more consistent at heat distribution. I can tell it’s heat retention is way better than the smaller oven likely because of how well the door seats and is held shut. It’s probably in my head.

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I didn’t have enough time to get them installed but I was able to scuff the second punisher sign…

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Coat it and cure it while eating dinner...

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And then mount it in between cleaning up.

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Hopefully get the running gear installed tomorrow.
 
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lilscorpion

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Got the running gear installed and

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The oven was raised about 18” which creates enough room below for a reasonably sized drawer which will gone me plenty of room for racks and other oven fixtures.

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Final step was to reinstall the electrical covers. Hopefully this will help reduce the number of times the wires get snagged on other shop stuf..

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larry4406

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Strouty

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Your oven has me wishing I had bought two of the ovens I bought, then I could have stacked them up and made one big one. I guess it is a moot point as I haven't used the one I got yet anyways, only been ten years.....
 
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