Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT Fas-Tel's 38x24
- Thread starter fas-tel
- Start date
Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
Chateau Slate 66
Well-known member
Great size and layout! Very nicely done.
Bathroom/Kitchen plumbing:
Also including a nice shot of the HVAC above the bathroom.
Plumber did a nice job of keeping the water lines out of the outside walls as he ran them through the ceiling of the media room and bathroom. Plumbed for toilet, bathroom sink, shower and kitchen sink. You can also see the gas lines for the hot water heater and furnace in these shots.
Notice the destroyed concrete around the future toilet and kitchen sink. Plumber said - WTF happened here? My reply was - you put them there! So off he went with the jackhammer :-(
Also including a nice shot of the HVAC above the bathroom.
Plumber did a nice job of keeping the water lines out of the outside walls as he ran them through the ceiling of the media room and bathroom. Plumbed for toilet, bathroom sink, shower and kitchen sink. You can also see the gas lines for the hot water heater and furnace in these shots.
Notice the destroyed concrete around the future toilet and kitchen sink. Plumber said - WTF happened here? My reply was - you put them there! So off he went with the jackhammer :-(
Attachments
sean Buick 76
Well-known member
I have the same issue...
Diagrams!
A couple of things happened to me. The photobucket thing and then I lost a bunch of docs that I had on Microsoft OneDrive.
This first diagram is one that I lost and had to subsequently re-create. It shows the initial layout of the garage and how I determined where to put most of the lighting and outlet drops.
The second diagram shows the modified design along with where the lighting (LEDs) are installed. It also shows where I put the ceiling and lower level Ethernet drops.
The legend for the diagram:
Yellow = lights
Purple = 220v for lifts
Blue = 110v
Orange = Ethernet
Larger box with CF is for the two ceiling fans.
A couple of things happened to me. The photobucket thing and then I lost a bunch of docs that I had on Microsoft OneDrive.
This first diagram is one that I lost and had to subsequently re-create. It shows the initial layout of the garage and how I determined where to put most of the lighting and outlet drops.
The second diagram shows the modified design along with where the lighting (LEDs) are installed. It also shows where I put the ceiling and lower level Ethernet drops.
The legend for the diagram:
Yellow = lights
Purple = 220v for lifts
Blue = 110v
Orange = Ethernet
Larger box with CF is for the two ceiling fans.
Attachments
Electrical:
I had a decision to make. I could upgrade my house service and run the power feed back out there (prob around 40ft each way) or run a new line directly to the garage. By far the simpler method was to run the wire directly to the garage (only about 12 feet from the feed).
I found out that any second meter in my area MUST be a commercial meter at commercial rates. I did some calcs and determined that it was actually cheaper to run on the commercial meter vs residential. Go figure!
Regarding outlets - I went a little crazy. I believe the total # was 66 on the first and second floors. I put blue tape where I wanted each outlet and the electrician wired them up for me. You can see in this picture the blue tape on the walls and the adjacent outlets.
They ended up wiring all the way around even where the furnace ended up. Once the unplanned placement of the furnace became reality he had to cut those off and bypass them.
The upper outlets were wired every 3 feet or so all the way around the garage except for over the overhead doors. This would be for neon/sign/etc lighting. I've seen a million pics of garages with long cords strung across the wall to the signs and did not like the look. These outlets are switched and are split into left and right sections with two separate switches.
Everything was great until I got his bill once he was done with the rough - holy ****! I ended up finish wiring nearly all the outlets and saved a couple grand. He was cool and let me do it myself.
I had the following wired:
• 200A service panel
• 2x40A wiring for swim spa service
• 2x220v service for lift power
• 30A service for RV connection
• 20A dedicated circuit for media room
• 20A dedicated circuit for compressor (second floor)
• 20A circuits for the first floor standard height outlets
• 15A upper switched circuits, 3 feet from ceiling
• 15A qty 3 always on outlets for the garage door openers (Liftmaster).
• 15A service for second floor outlets
I had a decision to make. I could upgrade my house service and run the power feed back out there (prob around 40ft each way) or run a new line directly to the garage. By far the simpler method was to run the wire directly to the garage (only about 12 feet from the feed).
I found out that any second meter in my area MUST be a commercial meter at commercial rates. I did some calcs and determined that it was actually cheaper to run on the commercial meter vs residential. Go figure!
Regarding outlets - I went a little crazy. I believe the total # was 66 on the first and second floors. I put blue tape where I wanted each outlet and the electrician wired them up for me. You can see in this picture the blue tape on the walls and the adjacent outlets.
They ended up wiring all the way around even where the furnace ended up. Once the unplanned placement of the furnace became reality he had to cut those off and bypass them.
The upper outlets were wired every 3 feet or so all the way around the garage except for over the overhead doors. This would be for neon/sign/etc lighting. I've seen a million pics of garages with long cords strung across the wall to the signs and did not like the look. These outlets are switched and are split into left and right sections with two separate switches.
Everything was great until I got his bill once he was done with the rough - holy ****! I ended up finish wiring nearly all the outlets and saved a couple grand. He was cool and let me do it myself.
I had the following wired:
• 200A service panel
• 2x40A wiring for swim spa service
• 2x220v service for lift power
• 30A service for RV connection
• 20A dedicated circuit for media room
• 20A dedicated circuit for compressor (second floor)
• 20A circuits for the first floor standard height outlets
• 15A upper switched circuits, 3 feet from ceiling
• 15A qty 3 always on outlets for the garage door openers (Liftmaster).
• 15A service for second floor outlets
Attachments
Ethernet:
During the design phase I went through several iterations of what I wanted to do. Since I had no idea where everything would end up and since Cat6 cable was relatively cheap, I thought I would overkill it vs. wishing I had run it after it was done. I'm a big believer in wired vs wireless and have run cable in my house wherever possible. I also work in the tech industry and have experience so I pulled all of the drops myself. I pulled 24 Ethernet drops total with qty 2 Cat 6 cables for each. My guess is I used at least 1200 feet or so of cable as I ran through a full 1000ft box along with part of another leftover box that I had. The runs all terminate in the "media room" under the stairs next to the bathroom.
Ethernet for Video distribution:
I decided to NOT pull any coax other than a homerun from the house. I had a buddy who used HD-BaseT (HDMI over Ethernet) so I did some research and went with that instead. I ran 2 Cat 6 pulls for each expected TV location.
Audio:
For audio for the TVs I would rely on the Cat 6. I did pull 2 runs of cheap wire out the front of the garage for possible future speaker placement for outside entertaining. I also ran 4 higher quality cables to my main TV placement area for front/middle/left/spare.
Media room:
I figured under the stairs would be a great place for not only a bathroom but also a media room for all of my electronic components. My builder wanted me to put in a half door (notice the header in the wall). I knew I would need to access the media room more often than not and would need better access therefore I opted for a narrow door leading from the bathroom. More on that later.
There are 3 conduits coming into the media room through the floor, there is one for water and qty 2 conduits from the house for misc cables. One currently has the homerun coax from the house and the other has 3 strands of Cat6 from the house.
Here is the media room and all of the pulled cable:
Also here is a diagram showing the media room and TV locations:
During the design phase I went through several iterations of what I wanted to do. Since I had no idea where everything would end up and since Cat6 cable was relatively cheap, I thought I would overkill it vs. wishing I had run it after it was done. I'm a big believer in wired vs wireless and have run cable in my house wherever possible. I also work in the tech industry and have experience so I pulled all of the drops myself. I pulled 24 Ethernet drops total with qty 2 Cat 6 cables for each. My guess is I used at least 1200 feet or so of cable as I ran through a full 1000ft box along with part of another leftover box that I had. The runs all terminate in the "media room" under the stairs next to the bathroom.
Ethernet for Video distribution:
I decided to NOT pull any coax other than a homerun from the house. I had a buddy who used HD-BaseT (HDMI over Ethernet) so I did some research and went with that instead. I ran 2 Cat 6 pulls for each expected TV location.
Audio:
For audio for the TVs I would rely on the Cat 6. I did pull 2 runs of cheap wire out the front of the garage for possible future speaker placement for outside entertaining. I also ran 4 higher quality cables to my main TV placement area for front/middle/left/spare.
Media room:
I figured under the stairs would be a great place for not only a bathroom but also a media room for all of my electronic components. My builder wanted me to put in a half door (notice the header in the wall). I knew I would need to access the media room more often than not and would need better access therefore I opted for a narrow door leading from the bathroom. More on that later.
There are 3 conduits coming into the media room through the floor, there is one for water and qty 2 conduits from the house for misc cables. One currently has the homerun coax from the house and the other has 3 strands of Cat6 from the house.
Here is the media room and all of the pulled cable:
Also here is a diagram showing the media room and TV locations:
Attachments
Garage door wiring:
Obviously I would need to have garage doors put in. While I was at it I replaced the attached garage door with the same door type and opener. This allowed me to observe the exact wiring pattern such that I could route the wires through the walls in the garage. Another pet peeve of mine is seeing the opener cables stapled to the walls…
I'm attaching an photo below. Apologies as I did not get a good pic of this so I had to adjust and shade this photo to bring out the details. I will get a better picture of it finished.
I ran 2 wire LV cable from where the openers would be to 4 different places:
1. The location by the entry door where the door button will be mounted
2. Right side sensor, near the bottom of right side of each door
3. Left side sensor, near the bottom of the left side of each door
4. Electric door lock - lower middle of the left side of each door
I used new work LV mounting brackets and will attach single hole faceplates to finish it off.
Obviously I would need to have garage doors put in. While I was at it I replaced the attached garage door with the same door type and opener. This allowed me to observe the exact wiring pattern such that I could route the wires through the walls in the garage. Another pet peeve of mine is seeing the opener cables stapled to the walls…
I'm attaching an photo below. Apologies as I did not get a good pic of this so I had to adjust and shade this photo to bring out the details. I will get a better picture of it finished.
I ran 2 wire LV cable from where the openers would be to 4 different places:
1. The location by the entry door where the door button will be mounted
2. Right side sensor, near the bottom of right side of each door
3. Left side sensor, near the bottom of the left side of each door
4. Electric door lock - lower middle of the left side of each door
I used new work LV mounting brackets and will attach single hole faceplates to finish it off.
Attachments
Insulation time!
We went with blown-in insulation for the vertical walls on the first and second floors. At 6" depth that gives around R21. For the ceilings on both the first and second floors we did the standard R19 batt.
While I am not technically designing for two separate zones for the first and second floors, my goal is to separate them with a curtain during the cold months. This should help contain the heat on the first floor.
The machine they used was in a large truck with a long hose extending to the structure. I've never seen it done before so I thought it was cool to watch.
Machine inside of the truck
Loft:
First floor ceiling:
First floor walls:
We went with blown-in insulation for the vertical walls on the first and second floors. At 6" depth that gives around R21. For the ceilings on both the first and second floors we did the standard R19 batt.
While I am not technically designing for two separate zones for the first and second floors, my goal is to separate them with a curtain during the cold months. This should help contain the heat on the first floor.
The machine they used was in a large truck with a long hose extending to the structure. I've never seen it done before so I thought it was cool to watch.
Machine inside of the truck
Loft:
First floor ceiling:
First floor walls:
Attachments
Drywall:
We had a discussion with the township inspector, he dutifully informed us that in order to proceed to drywall, we had to have a fully functioning heating system (especially since it was Feb and quite cold). He said since it was a garage he would cut us some slack on this, but the drywallers certainly recommended that it be on and functioning. Fortunately the furnace was fully installed but the lack of garage overhead doors was certainly an issue. I talked with both the builder and the door installer about installing the doors before the drywall. I thought I could possibly hide some of the door hardware under the drywall, but they told me "no way!". I did some google searches and asked around but I could not find any examples of this.
So…the heat went on with just tyvek covering the door openings. We thought about using some plywood over the openings but we figured that it would only be open for a couple of weeks so we went for it. I ran the furnace for 3 Days to get the structure warm and continued to keep it at 55 or so after it was done. The gas bill was not bad at all!
The delivery was quite comical, as I do not have a lot of room between the houses. They got the truck back there and unloaded through the upper window and man-door:
We had a discussion with the township inspector, he dutifully informed us that in order to proceed to drywall, we had to have a fully functioning heating system (especially since it was Feb and quite cold). He said since it was a garage he would cut us some slack on this, but the drywallers certainly recommended that it be on and functioning. Fortunately the furnace was fully installed but the lack of garage overhead doors was certainly an issue. I talked with both the builder and the door installer about installing the doors before the drywall. I thought I could possibly hide some of the door hardware under the drywall, but they told me "no way!". I did some google searches and asked around but I could not find any examples of this.
So…the heat went on with just tyvek covering the door openings. We thought about using some plywood over the openings but we figured that it would only be open for a couple of weeks so we went for it. I ran the furnace for 3 Days to get the structure warm and continued to keep it at 55 or so after it was done. The gas bill was not bad at all!
The delivery was quite comical, as I do not have a lot of room between the houses. They got the truck back there and unloaded through the upper window and man-door:
Attachments
Finishing the main floor.
Funny how specifying so many outlets really didn’t sink in until the drywall was put in. Holy ****!
We also got the garage doors installed as they were doing the mud/taping. They did a totally crappy job finishing up to the edges of the doors and door hardware. I asked my builder to fix it but he kept procrastinating so I ended up finishing over it. More on that later.
Funny how specifying so many outlets really didn’t sink in until the drywall was put in. Holy ****!
We also got the garage doors installed as they were doing the mud/taping. They did a totally crappy job finishing up to the edges of the doors and door hardware. I asked my builder to fix it but he kept procrastinating so I ended up finishing over it. More on that later.
Attachments
fireball05
Active member
Thanks for sharing!
Finishing the loft:
We ended up going with your basic satin white for up there. We didn’t get too complicated with it. Painting that loft was downright painful - the angles and corners were a killer on my shoulders and arms.
The floor:
We went through a zillion different iterations for how to finish the loft floor. I think it was sd171 that painted the floor…I liked the idea for its simplicity but my wife said no way. We looked around for some cheap flooring and found this stuff at Menards:
https://www.menards.com/main/storeitem.html?iid=1456889242249
It was relatively cheap to do and even cheaper if you can find it with the 11% rebate sale ($350 or so).
Getting the roll upstairs was a complete pain - we had to really work it and I had to re-paint the loft walls and ceiling as it really marked it up.
We think it looks fantastic!
I couldnt find a pic of the completely trimmed floor. We have since moved a bunch of **** up there...
We ended up going with your basic satin white for up there. We didn’t get too complicated with it. Painting that loft was downright painful - the angles and corners were a killer on my shoulders and arms.
The floor:
We went through a zillion different iterations for how to finish the loft floor. I think it was sd171 that painted the floor…I liked the idea for its simplicity but my wife said no way. We looked around for some cheap flooring and found this stuff at Menards:
https://www.menards.com/main/storeitem.html?iid=1456889242249
It was relatively cheap to do and even cheaper if you can find it with the 11% rebate sale ($350 or so).
Getting the roll upstairs was a complete pain - we had to really work it and I had to re-paint the loft walls and ceiling as it really marked it up.
We think it looks fantastic!
I couldnt find a pic of the completely trimmed floor. We have since moved a bunch of **** up there...
Attachments
Painting the first floor:
I saw a lot of nice garages with a 3 tone look, one top, one bottom and a stripe in the middle. I also didnt want to go with a stark white due to durability.
I went to the paint store and did some color matching and came back with this:
We liked it so we went with it.
I saw a lot of nice garages with a 3 tone look, one top, one bottom and a stripe in the middle. I also didnt want to go with a stark white due to durability.
I went to the paint store and did some color matching and came back with this:
We liked it so we went with it.
Attachments
I wanted to make sure that I had a nice level line for the stripe. I've been wanting one for a while so I went out and got myself a Bosch laser level and mounted it to a tripod. I used some good quality painters tape and followed the laser to form the top and bottom borders for the middle black color.
Here are pics both with and without the tape borders:
Here are pics both with and without the tape borders:
Attachments
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Fas: your new garage looks AMAZING. WELL DONE!!
sorry i haven't seen it sooner, but i'll try to follow along as best I can cause it looks well built and well planned too.
with all that insulation is it keeping pretty warm during all this cold weather even if you haven't hooked up the heat yet? or have you got heat too?
good luck!!
PS: i've got more than a few threads on GJ and some of them that maybe now have 500,000 views it seemed like I was talking to myself for a long long time trying to get interest in them or other members to post and not just look and admire.
keep posting pictures and your thoughts as much as you can cause i'm sure others will be copying your plan or close to it in their builds.
sorry i haven't seen it sooner, but i'll try to follow along as best I can cause it looks well built and well planned too.
with all that insulation is it keeping pretty warm during all this cold weather even if you haven't hooked up the heat yet? or have you got heat too?
good luck!!
PS: i've got more than a few threads on GJ and some of them that maybe now have 500,000 views it seemed like I was talking to myself for a long long time trying to get interest in them or other members to post and not just look and admire.
keep posting pictures and your thoughts as much as you can cause i'm sure others will be copying your plan or close to it in their builds.
Garage Flooring:
I went back and forth between tiles and a floor coating. At one point I was 100% sure about going with RaceDeck. In the end I was more concerned about the uneven nature of my floor with tiles so I ended up going with polyaspartic type floor coating. The look is similar to the tailored living micro graphite style with a blend of black, light grey and dark grey 1/8" chips.
The first few pics are of the install:
I went back and forth between tiles and a floor coating. At one point I was 100% sure about going with RaceDeck. In the end I was more concerned about the uneven nature of my floor with tiles so I ended up going with polyaspartic type floor coating. The look is similar to the tailored living micro graphite style with a blend of black, light grey and dark grey 1/8" chips.
The first few pics are of the install:
Attachments
I agree, you aren't talking to "no one."
I specifically clicked your thread due to the nature of the size of this build.
Am highly anxious to see a lift in there for proportion. This thing looks AWESOME! I may replicate it on my new home site.
Thank you for sharing.
I specifically clicked your thread due to the nature of the size of this build.
Am highly anxious to see a lift in there for proportion. This thing looks AWESOME! I may replicate it on my new home site.
Thank you for sharing.
Chateau Slate 66
Well-known member
Same here. Many of us read a lot and only post a little. I plan to steal a ton of your ideas.
rpenner54
Well-known member
Very nice build! Keep the updates up! I am curious about the HDMI over ethernet stuff. What does that allow you to do? I ran 1 cat5 cable to all my tv's just in case but really don't know how I can truly utilize that function.
I like the attic storage as well. I plan to do something similar with my garage build at some point.
I like the attic storage as well. I plan to do something similar with my garage build at some point.
Richie Rich
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 2, 2009
- Messages
- 190
Looks fantastic.
This is almost the exact dimensions of my planned garage addition (mine is 6" wider and no 2nd story). Nice to get a idea of what the inside of mine is going to look like.
This is almost the exact dimensions of my planned garage addition (mine is 6" wider and no 2nd story). Nice to get a idea of what the inside of mine is going to look like.
Richie Rich
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 2, 2009
- Messages
- 190
Without cluttering it with technical jargon, HDBT uses HDMI extenders to convert the video/audio from a source device (cable/sat/streaming box) to run over twisted pair cabling (ethernet cable). There are boxes that you connect on both ends to convert from HDMI to cat and vice versa. If you aren't going to have some sort of control/automation system it is best to get HDMI extenders (baluns) that have IR repeaters built in. That way you can use your cable/sat box remote to control your cable box that is remotely located in a cabinet or closet.
There is a lot more to it but that is basically how they work.
Bathroom:
I originally designed in a 3' wide bathroom under the stairs. I found some long/narrow bathroom designs on the internet and thought it would work, especially as this will not be a main bathroom.
Luckily for me, my builder screwed up and actually made it bigger because I needed the few extra inches of room. He ended up making it about 40" or so wide instead of 36".
For the floor, I picked out some cheapie no-glue vinyl from Lowes. I used the sheet vapor barrier and cut it to fit.
I used this type:
Tarkett Berkshire 6-ft W x Cut-to-Length Black and White Tile Low-Gloss Finish Sheet Vinyl
Here are a couple of pics:
I originally designed in a 3' wide bathroom under the stairs. I found some long/narrow bathroom designs on the internet and thought it would work, especially as this will not be a main bathroom.
Luckily for me, my builder screwed up and actually made it bigger because I needed the few extra inches of room. He ended up making it about 40" or so wide instead of 36".
For the floor, I picked out some cheapie no-glue vinyl from Lowes. I used the sheet vapor barrier and cut it to fit.
I used this type:
Tarkett Berkshire 6-ft W x Cut-to-Length Black and White Tile Low-Gloss Finish Sheet Vinyl
Here are a couple of pics:
Attachments
Lighting plan:
I don’t know about the rest of you but even after reading tons of posts I was still completely confused regarding what I should do. To partially compensate for this I had my electrician wire way too many outlets in the ceiling, just in case
As per the earlier diagrams my garage is split into 3 areas:
1. Lounge
2. Middle Stall
3. Right Stall
I wanted to go with something more casual in the lounge area so I went with hanging pendant lights from Lowes. I also found some retro looking LED bulbs from Costco. I figured that when not needing a lot of light these bulbs would cast a nice glow in that area augmented with other accent lighting on the walls.
For the stalls I knew I wanted LED T8s. Which kinds? What pattern? I thought about setting it up such that the line of fixtures separating the stalls would be split between the two, such that 2 out of the 4 would light up when you hit either switch. Well, I had trouble with this due to the location of the garage door track - it ended up costing me a light fixture in each row. So decided that the middle stall would light up all of them - essentially in a block "O" pattern. This left the right stall to be lit in a "C" pattern.
Additional details on the fixtures and bulbs:
Link to the pendant lights:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/allen-roth...ue-Pewter-Rustic-Mini-Cone-Pendant/1000002602
Retro LED bulbs from Costco - no link available online so here they are at Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9KYF0/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Based on other posts I used these wire-in fixtures from beeslighting.com:
https://beeslighting.com/diva-light-led-ready-strip-light/p/ST48232-LED
I connected them together using either fixed or flexible conduit based on the location.
The bulbs I used from Amazon are no longer available. Essentially they are 4ft 5k lights with frosted lenses. Here is the description from the order:
SHINE HAI T8 LED Shop Light Tube 48W Equivalent 4ft, Single-Ended Power 5000K Daylight White, Frosted Cover, G13 Lighting Fixtures, 12-pack
You can see the patterns in some of the previous photos so I wont re-post.
I don’t know about the rest of you but even after reading tons of posts I was still completely confused regarding what I should do. To partially compensate for this I had my electrician wire way too many outlets in the ceiling, just in case
As per the earlier diagrams my garage is split into 3 areas:
1. Lounge
2. Middle Stall
3. Right Stall
I wanted to go with something more casual in the lounge area so I went with hanging pendant lights from Lowes. I also found some retro looking LED bulbs from Costco. I figured that when not needing a lot of light these bulbs would cast a nice glow in that area augmented with other accent lighting on the walls.
For the stalls I knew I wanted LED T8s. Which kinds? What pattern? I thought about setting it up such that the line of fixtures separating the stalls would be split between the two, such that 2 out of the 4 would light up when you hit either switch. Well, I had trouble with this due to the location of the garage door track - it ended up costing me a light fixture in each row. So decided that the middle stall would light up all of them - essentially in a block "O" pattern. This left the right stall to be lit in a "C" pattern.
Additional details on the fixtures and bulbs:
Link to the pendant lights:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/allen-roth...ue-Pewter-Rustic-Mini-Cone-Pendant/1000002602
Retro LED bulbs from Costco - no link available online so here they are at Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9KYF0/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Based on other posts I used these wire-in fixtures from beeslighting.com:
https://beeslighting.com/diva-light-led-ready-strip-light/p/ST48232-LED
I connected them together using either fixed or flexible conduit based on the location.
The bulbs I used from Amazon are no longer available. Essentially they are 4ft 5k lights with frosted lenses. Here is the description from the order:
SHINE HAI T8 LED Shop Light Tube 48W Equivalent 4ft, Single-Ended Power 5000K Daylight White, Frosted Cover, G13 Lighting Fixtures, 12-pack
You can see the patterns in some of the previous photos so I wont re-post.
Jyzze
Well-known member
Wow! I realy like your garage.. it's like sports bar and Ford heaven in same place.
Its been a while but I'm back with an update.
We decided to go with a kitchen/bar area in the corner. The base cabinets and wall cabinets are standard Ikea box frames with Ikea dark Ash full overlay doors and trim. The elevated bar portion is simply a 2x4 frame covered on the front with painted 1/4 inch stock.
We decided to go with a kitchen/bar area in the corner. The base cabinets and wall cabinets are standard Ikea box frames with Ikea dark Ash full overlay doors and trim. The elevated bar portion is simply a 2x4 frame covered on the front with painted 1/4 inch stock.
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Lastly - I got my lifts! I went with a 4 post Bendpak HD-9 along with a 2 post Bendpak XPR-10S. I have the Mustangs stacked on the 4 post, and I cant wait to start wrenching on cars under my 2 post.
I purposely offset the lifts to the far side of the garage to allow for more room to work in the 2 post stall. Looks like I will still have enough room for some cabinets on the far wall on the other side of the 4 post.
I purposely offset the lifts to the far side of the garage to allow for more room to work in the 2 post stall. Looks like I will still have enough room for some cabinets on the far wall on the other side of the 4 post.
