Favorite low-tooth ratchet

[Parrothead]

Couldn’t tell you as anything below 60t I no longer own. The higher tooth counts are so strong and so convenient I didn’t see the point. Might pick up an old SK and do the upgrade though.

 

[shawndp]

Sorry for the question- but is there a reason where a low tooth-count rathchet is better than a 84T / Dual 80 / Eighty8 variety? I have finer ones like 120xp and Cobra 160 to overcome clearance issues. Just wondering what the application for 36-tooth ratchets would be please?

 

[Al Borland]

Application would be:
50 feet up in a manlift. Have to get the bolt off. Can't use a torch due to combustibles.
May need a cheater bar. Ratchet can't fail. If I drop it, it has to work when I pick it up.
It MAY need to be used as a hammer.

 

[sk farmer]

not to be a jerk, but i don't get most of those reasons.

ratchets work the same at all elevations in my experience.

fine tooth ratchets remove bolts.

fine tooth ratchets are not combustible.

cheater bars fit on all ratchets.

all ratchets can fail and most anything can be used a s a hammer.

i have low count and high count ratchets and i find that a quality ratchet whether it be high or low tooth will work in any of those situations. abuse is abuse no matter how many teeth it has. if you open them up and look, most low tooth count ratchets only have a couple teeth in contact. a fine tooth ratchet will have 7-10 or maybe more points of contact. more points of contact are almost always stronger.

that said. a cornwell 3/8 ratchet is a joy to use.

 

[shawndp]

Application would be:
50 feet up in a manlift. Have to get the bolt off. Can't use a torch due to combustibles.
May need a cheater bar. Ratchet can't fail. If I drop it, it has to work when I pick it up.
It MAY need to be used as a hammer.

So I assume that the low-tooth-count affairs are more durable? I’ve used cheater bars before I bought my FLLF80 but it does such an awesome job of tearing up sockets with just my body weight that I don’t think a cheater should be used. Would you say then that they are more for industrial and not automotive applications? Thanks.

 

[Mgdoug3]

My favorite is the SK-WAYNE 45170 I picked up a while back that was in rough condition. I was able to clean it up and make it work as good as new. I also like my 3870 but with the DT upgrade it's no longer a "course" tooth ratchet.

 

[Schurkey]

Application would be:
50 feet up in a manlift. Have to get the bolt off. Can't use a torch due to combustibles.
May need a cheater bar. Ratchet can't fail. If I drop it, it has to work when I pick it up.
It MAY need to be used as a hammer.

I don't see that coarse-tooth vs. fine tooth is an issue here. Leash the ratchet to your belt with a length of cable, so it can't fall. Take a hammer with you. Problem solved.

 

[KnurledNut]

Gray Tools!
Cornwell!
The Thorsen open gear ratchets are bulletproof too!


One advantage of a low tooth ratchet is finding torque angle using the tooth count method.

Secondly, mechanisms can be more forgiving in very dirty industrial environments.
Test: Drop both fine (non-sealed) and coarse in a mud puddle and see which fairs better. This is not a far fetched situation for those of us that work in the field.

 

[ChevyEFI]

My favorite is the SK-WAYNE 45170 I picked up a while back that was in rough condition. I was able to clean it up and make it work as good as new. I also like my 3870 but with the DT upgrade it's no longer a fine tooth ratchet.

It went from 40 to 40 with dual alternating pawls. I don't understand your finding.

 

[monomach]

I've absolutely abused my Proto 5449 over the last twenty years and it's handled it without issues. After a bit of Super Lube, it's probably the smoothest ratchet I have, too.

If that 5249 is the 3/8" version of it, I'd certainly give it a shot.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

A low tooth count can have less back drag, and alot of times the count doesn't matter.
Then there are those other times....that's why you should have both.

 

[Al Borland]

not to be a jerk, but i don't get most of those reasons.

ratchets work the same at all elevations in my experience.

fine tooth ratchets remove bolts.

fine tooth ratchets are not combustible.

cheater bars fit on all ratchets.

all ratchets can fail and most anything can be used a s a hammer.

i have low count and high count ratchets and i find that a quality ratchet whether it be high or low tooth will work in any of those situations. abuse is abuse no matter how many teeth it has. if you open them up and look, most low tooth count ratchets only have a couple teeth in contact. a fine tooth ratchet will have 7-10 or maybe more points of contact. more points of contact are almost always stronger.

that said. a cornwell 3/8 ratchet is a joy to use.

Abusability. Tolerates cheaters without bending or skipping. SKs would bend in the handle or get out of round in the center. Never thought of pear heads as that durable, probably because of Craftsman.
Hold the NB ratchet it by the head and that big fat handle is great as a "Persuader". If/when it falls, it stays together. End of the day, they were reasonably priced new, and have held up for decades doing stupid stuff. Gotta love success.
Yeah, I could drill them and tether them... but,

 

[sk farmer]

Still not getting your aversion to higher tooth count ratchets. Low tooth count iis normally 36 or less. Most nb ( new britain)r atchets that you claim to like are 45 or more clicks if i recall. Not really course tootooth.

If you don't like sk ratchets or they don't work for you that is fine but it is rather narrow to discount every bigbter tooth count ratchet because of it.

 

[Al Borland]

Umm, the O.P. specified favorite low tooth 45 or less.
So, I responded to the O.P.'s topic. What I like 45 tooth or less ratchets and why.

When working on my truck/wife's car, etc. I generally use something a bit more modern. Usually a version of the William Co. Taiwan ratchet or a Husky. Convenient in the blow-molded case with the sockets and easily replaced when broken/thrown in frustration.
SK Waynes and Wrights seem to just live out their days in the toolbox.
And I like my SK Waynes, they're just getting worn out, and I absolutely hated the Facom (Pronounced Fuc-Em) SKs

 

[yamaha0343]

Williams long handle 3/8. Only about 36 teeth i think but very nice and quite smooth now that its been broken in and i added some moly grease.

This one here;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001DNRPH4/?tag=atomicindustr-21

Looking into getting a long 1/2" of the same type.

Same here!

By the way Tonyuk, I have the 1/2 as well, and it's become the first ratchet I reach for.

 

[L.Cheapo]

My F936 was my first Snap On tool I ever bought. I was 15 then; it hasn't missed a beat in the 24 years I've owned it. Even though I have some Dual80s, I always reach for that 936 first. Nostalgia maybe?

 

[The Fall]

Proto! A couple folks on this board recommended the 1/2" long handle to me and it's great for suspension work or removing large fasteners -- like the bolts running through the frame rail to a steering gear box.

SK roundheads are my favorite ratchet, but at 40 teeth they don't qualify.

I agree with the poster above. I have both fine and course. I almost always use SK/Proto unless an F-80 is called for (arc swing). It's just personal preference. Everything we work on is pre-'75. We get a lot more room than folks working on late models.

 

[Mgdoug3]

It went from 40 to 40 with dual alternating pawls. I don't understand your finding.

Since the arc swing is cut in half (from 9 degrees to 4.5) I consider it a fine tooth ratchet. You can agree or disagree but that's my opinion.

 

[Scotty_B]

While roto ratchets with higher tooth counts (72+) are my go-tos, I find myself breaking out my old Snap-on F712 quite a bit. Only 20 teeth!

Once I cleaned it up and lubed it (with Super Lube), it's smooth as butter and eerily quiet. Also, it's got the least amount of backdrag of any ratchet I own. It's that attribute, along with the bent handle and narrow flex head, that makes it handy in situations where I can't get a hand in there to spin a nut or bolt off.

I agree with the poster that says low-tooth count ratchets aren't necessarily stronger or more reliable. But I disagree that high tooth count ratchets are inherently superior unless swing arc is truly a factor. I can get the Snap-on to engage the next tooth pretty much anywhere in my engine bays.

Since the original poster specified a 45-tooth ceiling, I'm going to mention my Wright 2426 1/4" drive with 41 teeth. That tiny sucker is a lifesaver and can get into spots nothing else will. It's surprisingly strong, too!

 

[petercookies]

I have two 3/8" ratchets for everyday use.

One is coarse tooth: Ko-ken 2753P. 24 teeth and the smoothest, lowest backdrag ratchet I've ever used. The people in here that don't understand the purpose of a low tooth count should seriously give it a chance. It's my go-to for the majority of what I do.

Then I have one for "uh oh" situations where the Ko-ken won't work: Carlyle R38LFLQR. It's long-handle, indexing flex head, quick release, 90 tooth, slim head, comfort handle. Basically has every feature the Ko-ken doesn't.

But you know what? I reach for the Ko-ken first because it's such a pleasure to use and only use the Carlyle to get myself out of various jams.

 

[Scotty_B]

Definitely agree with the mentions of the Thorsen USA open head ratchet. 30 teeth. Strong. Reliable. Small head fits into tight spots. Easy to service. I clean it up with brake clean and spray some dry lube in the mechanism to keep it going.

40 teeth seems to qualify for fine tooth for some. But the older tech of the S-K 45170 is hard to beat for reliability and strength. The 41 teeth of the Wright 3400 single paw just might do it, though. The short tootsie roll handle is a matter of taste, though. The Wright has a more compact head than the S-K without compromising strength.

Included in the back of the pic is an Indestro Super 2775 roundhead. Its 52 teeth doesn't qualify it, based on the parameters set by the OP, but it's worth mentioning because it is similar in design and technology to the others. One of my favorite ratchets!

 

[cherrybomb]

I too have a snapon f936,it is a great old ratchet.Since I use breaker bar,then ratchet,it will last a long,long time.Proto makes great ratchets also.

 

[M6erfan]

I have two 3/8" ratchets for everyday use.

One is coarse tooth: Ko-ken 2753P. 24 teeth and the smoothest, lowest backdrag ratchet I've ever used. The people in here that don't understand the purpose of a low tooth count should seriously give it a chance. It's my go-to for the majority of what I do.

Then I have one for "uh oh" situations where the Ko-ken won't work: Carlyle R38LFLQR. It's long-handle, indexing flex head, quick release, 90 tooth, slim head, comfort handle. Basically has every feature the Ko-ken doesn't.

But you know what? I reach for the Ko-ken first because it's such a pleasure to use and only use the Carlyle to get myself out of various jams.

You sir, have great taste in ratchets

 

[MShaw]

Up thru 1/2" drive my coarse tooth ratchets are all snap on from the early 1960s. 1/4" drive TM70 A 20 T, 3/8" drive F71-C 30 T and F710-A 20 T, 1/2" drive L-715 20 T and SV71 32 T In 3/4" drive I have an older Craftsman with 36 T. I also have fine tooth NB Kilness ratchets in all drive sizes but I usually go to the coarse tooth ratchets first except in the 3/4" drive where my NB made Mac Kilness long arm ratchet is my first choice.

 

[ReggieR]

S&K Wayne era

 

[petercookies]

You sir, have great taste in ratchets

 

[WWheeler]

Craftsman RHFT.
1/2"dr is 45 tooth (just meets the OP's criteria), 3/8"dr is 41 tooth, and 1/4"dr is 35 tooth.
Nevermind they have a floating dual pawl design that doubled the # clicks per tooth.

Also very partial to my Snap-on 936 ratchets.

 

[davethorik]

The 41 teeth of the Wright 3400 single paw just might do it, though. The short tootsie roll handle is a matter of taste, though. The Wright has a more compact head than the S-K without compromising strength.

Included in the back of the pic is an Indestro Super 2775 roundhead. Its 52 teeth doesn't qualify it, based on the parameters set by the OP, but it's worth mentioning because it is similar in design and technology to the others. One of my favorite ratchets!

Just an FYI- if you install a modern rebuild kit into that Wright , it will give you twin pawls. I have the same ratchet, found it with the detent ball having lost its spring, so it needed rebuilt in order to hold sockets anyway...and it is now one of my smoothest, lowest backdrag ratchets.

 

[Joshua]

Proto 5249, hands down. Mine was my grandfather's and is still kickin', though I had to put a rebuild kit into it recently.

Super nice action, can throw pretty much any form of grease in it and it'll be buttery smooth.

 

[turnthewrench 2.0]

Proto 24T
Snap-on 936

I still want to try that Ko-ken 24T (with the knurled handle) and Stahlwille 30T, but they're not in the budget - yet!