Favorite Milwaukee M12 Ratchet?
- Thread starter Beemer
- Start date
I like the original, small head nonfuel 1/4”. I also have a 3/8 but don’t use it as much. The answer really depends on the use.
Mostly I use them to work on my BMWs and Porsche, though I sometimes help friends with a Honda or Nissan or VW. If I drove full size pick ups and maintained construction equipment, my choice would differ. What size and torque are the nuts and bolts and how much access is there to them?
Mostly I use them to work on my BMWs and Porsche, though I sometimes help friends with a Honda or Nissan or VW. If I drove full size pick ups and maintained construction equipment, my choice would differ. What size and torque are the nuts and bolts and how much access is there to them?
richfinn
Well-known member
I have the regular length 3/8" M12 Fuel high speed, not much torque but I like the compactness of the head.
I will probably get the insider at some point as it offers a lot more flexibility in drive sizes and has the extra length.
I will probably get the insider at some point as it offers a lot more flexibility in drive sizes and has the extra length.
Is the 1/4" tool much smaller than the 3/8"?
Is the lack of torque a hindrance?
Rusted Nut
Well-known member
I have both the higher torque 3/8 and the high speed (lower torque) 3/8”. The high speed wins by far. You can use both as a manual ratchet to break a bolt free, then the high speed is much faster.
Any M12 ratchet is better than no M12 ratchet.
My most-used sockets are 3/8", so that's the one I have. I use it a ton - I like how it accelerates a lot of things I work on. I don't use it all the time, but often when I'm dealing with a lot of fasteners.
My most-used sockets are 3/8", so that's the one I have. I use it a ton - I like how it accelerates a lot of things I work on. I don't use it all the time, but often when I'm dealing with a lot of fasteners.
Not really (IMHO). When I'm using 1/4" it's often in the engine bay when space/access is tighter and I want to manage the force being applied.
I have the OG 3/8" FUEL model that doesn't have a ton of grump, but I haven't found it to be a problem. I guess it might struggle with a big, long suspension bolt, but I've used mine through several suspension jobs and I can't recall it ever failing to make progress, but have medium and small cars and don't have to deal with any rust to speak of...
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
In 1/4 I have the older long neck fuel, non high speed, and a normal length high speed. The HS is basically worthless for anything but clean M6 Threads. It can't break them free with the trigger most times, while the regular fuel which has only 5ftlb more IIRC can do so easily. Rust or locktite, even after being broken free, stop the high speed.
Many places I work, there is no room to swing the coarse tooth head of an electric ratchet, either the trigger removes it or you need another drive tool.
For 3/8 I prefer Snap On, m12 simply isnt comparable unless you want a weak sause nut runner. If the high speed model is all that is available when my regular fuel 1/4 long neck dies, I won't buy another M12 product. Simply not enough power.
Many places I work, there is no room to swing the coarse tooth head of an electric ratchet, either the trigger removes it or you need another drive tool.
For 3/8 I prefer Snap On, m12 simply isnt comparable unless you want a weak sause nut runner. If the high speed model is all that is available when my regular fuel 1/4 long neck dies, I won't buy another M12 product. Simply not enough power.
swsman
Well-known member
I own the very same ratchet.
For stubborn bolts I loosen manually then start up the tool.
Similar for final tightening as needed. Been very happy with it.
swsman
Well-known member
Having used air ratchets in the past, I do not think M12 Fuel high speed is weak sauce, it does what it was designed to do.
Much like the extended box end wrenches have regular and ratcheting end, one end is used to break loose the fastener, other end to drive it out.
M12 Fuel can also be used manually, then power out.
I can see in your use case how a stronger tool will save you time.
dnschmidt
Well-known member
2nd Gear and I live if different worlds. He lives in Pittsburgh and I live in Phoenix. Out here high speed is the choice, back home in Pittsburgh, the OG Fuel would be my choice or perhaps a DeWalt/MAC as they do have more grunt. In either case the long neck versions are preferable to the standard length versions as they can get into more places. I haven't seen a rusty bolt since I moved here 30 years ago whereas 2nd Gear hasn't seen a clean one possibly in his lifetime.
richfinn
Well-known member
Mmmm yes/no it depends what you are doing, I work on a lot of fairly new cars so it works ok as a light duty nut runner for me, I will hang on to my old Snappy FAR70 knuckle buster for ripping out transmission bolts etc.
Heck I experience "beyond" rust where I live.
finn
Well-known member
It’s not a hindrance as much as an annoyance.
I always do the hinal tightening with a ratchet, anyway, and look at these as nut runners, above all else.
That said, I’m not sure it’s worth paying extra for the Milwaukee name. I’ve been thinking about looking for something a little more compact to go along with my two Milwaukees and my Dewalt extended reach.
All of mine are 3/8” drive, but a 1/4” in a more compact form might be more useful, even if it has lower torque and a different battery platform.
I generally do this too, but more and more I'll crack the fastener if I know it's not a higher-torque thing. It works better than I expected TBH. Just for the better 'feel', I'll still generally do a final tighten with a regular ratchet if I'm not using a torque wrench.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Snap-on Store
If you want the rust-buster - Snap on high torque 3/8. 80 ft/lb, 200rpm, the big dog. That's $730 as a kit with 2 batteries. The snap on stuff in 1/4 has listed power similar to M12, which is why I've stuck by M12 for 1/4 rather than chance upgrading into similar power. If the M12 3/8 HS legitimately makes the same as the 1/4 HS, which per their specs they are the same 35ft/lb, I'm not sure you could even use it as a nut runner in the rust belt. Locktite or any crust would stop it dead.
If you can accept a long neck, the insider makes way more power and gives you 1/4 and 3/8. Although the body of the tool then becomes a bit large for a dedicated 1/4 tool. But it's rated at 60ft/lb, 350rpm, a legit 3/8 power level IMO. The HS M12 tools seem like 1/4 drive power at best, unless you live where you can break something free then spin it out by hand.
It all depends what you want to do, what you want to pay, and what environment you're in. I think the way some people describe using them as nut runners simply isn't realistic on a 10yo rust-belt car. You're not running out an M10 caliper bracket bolt with rust or any locktite with an M12 high speed.
i love my 1/4 and 3/8 non fuel. i went non fuel b/c of the head's size vs the fuel tools. about my only complaint is you really sholdnt try and break stuff free like you can with the snap on cordless. this is b/c you leverage against the battery b/c of how its into the handle
finn
Well-known member
That’s where you break out the impact gun rather than the impact ratchet.Snap-on Store
shop.snapon.com
If you want the rust-buster - Snap on high torque 3/8. 80 ft/lb, 200rpm, the big dog. That's $730 as a kit with 2 batteries. The snap on stuff in 1/4 has listed power similar to M12, which is why I've stuck by M12 for 1/4 rather than chance upgrading into similar power. If the M12 3/8 HS legitimately makes the same as the 1/4 HS, which per their specs they are the same 35ft/lb, I'm not sure you could even use it as a nut runner in the rust belt. Locktite or any crust would stop it dead.
If you can accept a long neck, the insider makes way more power and gives you 1/4 and 3/8. Although the body of the tool then becomes a bit large for a dedicated 1/4 tool. But it's rated at 60ft/lb, 350rpm, a legit 3/8 power level IMO. The HS M12 tools seem like 1/4 drive power at best, unless you live where you can break something free then spin it out by hand.
It all depends what you want to do, what you want to pay, and what environment you're in. I think the way some people describe using them as nut runners simply isn't realistic on a 10yo rust-belt car. You're not running out an M10 caliper bracket bolt with rust or any locktite with an M12 high speed.
Right tool for the job.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Which I would, if there were more than 3" between the bolt head and the body of the shock. Trust me, my preference is always a 2967 or Astro Thor with a swivel socket to just rip stuff apart.
Haven't found anything slimmer than my astro flex-head and the tool alone wouldn't fit in there. It's just reality, hate to say it. You can fight this bolt out turn by turn, then do the other 3, or buy something which will shake and judder but fight through the locktite on that 2022 getting it's first brake job.
It's the same concept as not breaking bolts free with the ratcheting end of a wrench - Cool, guess you're pulling the entire rear subframe for free then. Only way it's clocking onto the fastener is with 4 clicks at a time on a 80+ tooth XL ratcheting wrench, and you're going to pull with everything you have. Gotta do the job sometimes. If I was king they'd stop making nonsense like that.
swsman
Well-known member
In a professional environment like you are in, beating the flat rate/trying to knock the work out fast - tools will be used and warrantied as needed.
They become sort of a disposable
Fully get that.
I have the time, not under the pressure as there is something else to drive. Therefore I bought Capri Extra Long DBE wrenches sans ratcheting function, wanted brute force. Once it is loose I have combination ratcheting wrenches, Astro nano sockets, long ratchets with thin heads, semi deep sockets and such...
If bolt is really in there I am not opposed to opening a wallet and getting a tool that makes the job easier, once I have exhausted all of my on hand options.
Have the 3/8 standard, and the Fuel. The Fuel is way faster and I grab it most often. If money's tight, get the standard, but the speed is nice?
I also broke the crankshaft on the standard....replaced it and the anvil for $30. (it's not a torque wrench, lol)
I also broke the crankshaft on the standard....replaced it and the anvil for $30. (it's not a torque wrench, lol)
Agree with that.
I don't think I'd chance being at the receiving end of instantly applied torque on a ratchet handle. That might be like trying to hold a big dog drill when the bit binds up. Not good for the wrists.
mreisner
Well-known member
I have the new Snap-on one and am very happy with it. It is a beast!Snap-on Store
If you want the rust-buster - Snap on high torque 3/8. 80 ft/lb, 200rpm, the big dog. That's $730 as a kit with 2 batteries. The snap on stuff in 1/4 has listed power similar to M12, which is why I've stuck by M12 for 1/4 rather than chance upgrading into similar power. If the M12 3/8 HS legitimately makes the same as the 1/4 HS, which per their specs they are the same 35ft/lb, I'm not sure you could even use it as a nut runner in the rust belt. Locktite or any crust would stop it dead.
If you can accept a long neck, the insider makes way more power and gives you 1/4 and 3/8. Although the body of the tool then becomes a bit large for a dedicated 1/4 tool. But it's rated at 60ft/lb, 350rpm, a legit 3/8 power level IMO. The HS M12 tools seem like 1/4 drive power at best, unless you live where you can break something free then spin it out by hand.
It all depends what you want to do, what you want to pay, and what environment you're in. I think the way some people describe using them as nut runners simply isn't realistic on a 10yo rust-belt car. You're not running out an M10 caliper bracket bolt with rust or any locktite with an M12 high speed.
Not in our budget for occasional use
assassin10000
Well-known member
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- Feb 11, 2022
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If you need the extra torque, then the 1st gen fuel m12 or the insider. I'd skip the 1st gen extended as the 40ft-lb rating barely beats the high speeds 35 ft-lb rating.
I've had the regular 3/8, high speed 3/8, 2nd gen extended high speed 3/8, which I sold off. As I recently got the insider.
I don't really deal with rust often though. Or I might have had the 1st gen fuel and/or extended.