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Filling large cracks temporary workspace floor

dkjwall

Active member
Joined
Oct 6, 2013
Messages
28
Hello,

I like to lurk a bit, don't post much. Great website, and awesome resource.

I've fixed up a small garage on my property so I'll have a warm work space over the winter months. This garage floor was poured in 1960. No re-bar or mesh reinforcement here... As you'll see in the following photos, it's got HUGE cracks, and I want to fill them up with something so that I don't fall into one and go missing. I know that the only way to FIX this floor would be to rip it out. Simply isn't in the budget.... Any recommendations on a cost effective product I can use to fill the cracks and holes for the time being? This is more of a temporary work space until I can afford to build new in a couple of years, but I gotta do something about these cracks.

Thanks for your help!

Derek.

Photos:

IMG_3886_zpsjs90kd3b.jpg


IMG_3887_zps6del5izh.jpg
 
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theoldwizard1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,100
Location
SE MI
Grind down the high spots. Chip out the loose stuff. Widen the really narrow cracks. Use hydraulic cement, but only IN THE CRACK. Any extra on the side will likely flake/crack off.

They also make "self leveling" cement (a very thin cement), but the floor has to be very clean (no left over grease/oil spots). You should probably etch it and apply a "binder" first. Any cracks and the self leveling cement will just run in them. Do low ares first and let completely harden. Then apply a second application.

I am not certain how "durable" this is, because it is so thin. Dropping something heavy and it will likely chip/crack.


There are others here MUCH more knowledgeable than I, so hopefully they will chime in.
 

Gotcha640

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2015
Messages
948
Location
Houston TX
Would the budget/type of work allow for a bunch of 3/4 inch ply or osb? Even better if you could build a 2x frame to skip around the big holes/ridges. The lumber would still be usable after you replace the slab.
 

SunsetsAndFriends

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 10, 2012
Messages
753
Chasing (grinding) the cracks, vacuuming thoroughly, and then filling with hydrolic cement would be very cheap and would work for the couple years that you're going to use this, until you rebuild.
 
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dwysywd

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 21, 2014
Messages
892
Location
SE Michigan - Romeo area
I saw this product in action. It's pretty cool. It's called mor-flexx and it's a rubberized mortar. They have it at a lot of concrete places.


Sent from my bag phone...
 

Slowgsr

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 14, 2014
Messages
610
Location
Southern ontario
I'd open up the cracks with a grinder & diamond blade
Remove any debris - vacuum & blow out
Then fill with sikagrout - high strength, non shrinkage and can be mixed so it's pourable. Just fill up your cracks, once you clean/open.

Should be inexpensive, and if you put some elbow grease into the prep it should hold up decent if your slab pieces have stabilized
 
OP
D

dkjwall

Active member
Joined
Oct 6, 2013
Messages
28
I like the idea of using a self-levelling concrete like MG-Krete, and maybe some cheap version of RaceDeck, but after thinking about it for a while I can't really justify it on this garage... I think I'll go the Hydraulic cement or Sikagrout route.... I wouldn't want to go the caulking route for most of it, since there are some pretty wide cracks, and some decent chunks missing... I feel like I'd use many, many tubes. I'll have to see what my local distributors have to offer.

I've started thinking about laying down a hard rubber matt over the concrete. Is there something available wouldn't make it impossible to roll an engine stand around? One of my local lumber yards sells these 3'x3' 1/2" rubber matts, but they are too soft to use in a garage.

Thanks for all the replies!

Derek.
 
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