Finally busted my HF breaker bar

[Steiger9]

Had it about two years, only abused it once a year ago (bouncing on it with about 3/4 of my weight) and it took it like a champ. Today I was just pulling on it with normal grunt force and it suddenly got all sloppy.

Of course I'm going to warranty it, but now I'm thinking I need a better one for a primary. That Icon is looking pretty good what with being slightly thicker.

I know Proto makes one in the $35 range but haven't heard great reviews on it.

Any other suggestions for an extra beefy non-Snapon one?

 

[AS556]

Is that the Pro?

I have a Pro, a Proto, a Plomb, a Craftsman and a couple non pro HF. If I had to choose just one of those it'd be the Proto.

 

[seanb02]

1/2" breaker or 3/4"? You didn't mention that. I have a 3/4" 36" SK breaker bar that will get the job done with a 10' pipe and everything I've got on the end of it.

Far as 1/2" goes, around the farm for one particular piece of equipment that can't fit a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar, I had to step up to Snap-on. The 25" ratchet with everything I've got in me on the end of it does the job.

Granted I know you said no Snap-on, but for that particular application I tried a lot of different solutions to the issue that ultimately ended up failing. Snap-on was my last resort and it has stayed working. Just to clarify once again it is a ratchet not a breaker bar for my application that I haven't managed to kill yet.

 

[Mr_B]

proto be good option or just get a spare pitts pro when got a good coupon, easy warranty .
Think I would skip the icon unless it proven be above average .

 

[seber]

I've put pipes on every breaker I own. Never have I seen one break, not even Craftsman. I would just stay away from HF for anything that requires quality steel. Some of the stuff from Taiwan seems to be quite good but it's a **** shoot. Just get USA and be done with it.

 

[gatlibs]

They are not cheap, but follow Archimedes' line about leverage.
SK 41656 $75 30" 1/2" drive https://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/1-2-drive-flex-30-long-xxl-sk-breaker-bar.html
SK 47157 $120 36" 3/4" drive https://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/3-4-drive-flex-36-long-xxl-sk-breaker-bar.html
I had problems with my impact on some bolts on the undercarriage of a truck. With 3' of leverage it felt like I had sheared the bolt because it was so easy to turn.

 

[RTUmark]

Just broke my ratcheting 3/8 HF breaker. It was gimmicky but live a hard life. They have since changed design when I went in for the warranty replacement

 

[theoldwizard1]

Any other suggestions for an extra beefy non-Snapon one?

The problem I found was that only a few of them had the LENGTH I wanted !

Hell, the Craftsman 3/4" breaker bar is the same length as the 1/2" bar !

 

[RedneckWelder]

The Proto one breaks easy. I replaced it with a 36” Snap On. Sometimes you gotta bite the bullet and go with the best.

 

[Wrench97]

I've had my SO 36" since 1976 had the head replaced once in the 90's but there is a slight arch to the handle now..............

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

My son has a long Princess Auto one, the one with the big round head . It just refuses to break. If you find one with that big knuckle head, I would think it's from the same maker.

I had a Proto Challenger break at the handle. I welded it up with some exotic super high strength rod and used it for some years, then on a stubborn nut the head broke like the HF one. I went out and bought a cheap Mastercraft T-handle. So cheap the sliding head was hollow. It got the nut off ! Skip Proto. I have a Proto 3/8" flex head missing it's handle I picked up in a tool box. Skip Proto.

 

[Tallpilot]

It seems to me if we are breaking 1/2" bars at the joint the solution is a 3/4" bar. I know I feel better using one in cases where I can feel my 1/2" beginning elastic deformation. The other point mentioned was length. A 40" bar is far less effort than bouncing with your body weight on a 24".

The breaker bar in question though is the weaker head type according to some manufacturers.

Tekton's 3/4 is affordable and very strong.

 

[Mr_B]

trouble jumping to 3/4 is you either going need spend out on full range of 3/4 sockets or get a miracle alloy 3/4 to 1/2" adapter ...
I've got snapon britool bars decades old with this same yolk design and never had issue, got proto too and all seen jack handle abuse at some point .
Only one I ever broke was a Koken, I prefer clevis on handle design but either clevis on handle or on drive head good if material/manufacture good .

 

[Rabid Badger]

That fork has some odd wear on it. The rolled over edge beneath the head (highlighted in blue), gouges on the tines (highlighted in red) and the wrinkles in chrome at the base (highlighted in yellow) make me think it has seen some unorthodox use in its short life.

 

[jd_1138]

What length is it? I have a 25 inch one that's been abused (non pro HF), no problems yet. I have since added a 17 inch BB because the 25 inch is sometimes too large to break bolts loose in confined places (clearance issues).

 

[Tallpilot]

trouble jumping to 3/4 is you either going need spend out on full range of 3/4 sockets or get a miracle alloy 3/4 to 1/2" adapter ...
I've got snapon britool bars decades old with this same yolk design and never had issue, got proto too and all seen jack handle abuse at some point .
Only one I ever broke was a Koken, I prefer clevis on handle design but either clevis on handle or on drive head good if material/manufacture good .

I don’t disagree with you that the expense is an issue. The OP has an avatar picture of a fairly large articulated tractor. I can’t imagine someone who works on that type of equipment not having 3/4” stuff.

https://www.tekton.com/3-4-inch-dri...in-32-50-mm?quantity=1&set-range=1-1-2---2-in

$125 for the large end. $200 if you want the full range. Proof torques exceeding 1000 ft/lbs.

 

[Professional Tool User]

What kind of job were you using it for? I destroyed my Pittsburgh Pro one over a year ago from excessive vibration and one of the ears broke. I bet the more expensive ones like Snap off are also going to break if you really beat on it. There are times when you should be using a 3/4 bar but don't either out of laziness or lack of clearance.

 

[Mr. T]

I have the 24” 1/2 drive Proto breaker bar at work. I’ve beaten the living piss out of it and it still looks like new. This is just my experience but if you’re breaking good 1/2” drive stuff, you need to step up to 3/4”.

 

[DSLTRK]

Had it about two years, only abused it once a year ago (bouncing on it with about 3/4 of my weight) and it took it like a champ. Today I was just pulling on it with normal grunt force and it suddenly got all sloppy.

Of course I'm going to warranty it, but now I'm thinking I need a better one for a primary. That Icon is looking pretty good what with being slightly thicker.

I know Proto makes one in the $35 range but haven't heard great reviews on it.

Any other suggestions for an extra beefy non-Snapon one?

I typically prefer a US made equivalent, but the Duralast 24 inch has the desirable wrap around head. I have two of them and they haven't given any trouble, save for the handle slipping once in a while.

The finish and machining quality is typical for a high end Taiwanese tool, and the bar is a steal at $20 bucks.

 

[zendriver]

Any other suggestions for an extra beefy non-Snapon one?

Get the 3/4" from HF and use a reducer, if necessary.

One could use to beat a rhinoceros to death with it, it's so beefy.



https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-drive-20-inch-quick-release-breaker-bar-98270.html

 

[Steiger9]

Sorry for the lack of complete information. It's the 1/2" Pittsburgh Pro 25" breaker bar, usually on sale for $15.

We do have plenty of 3/4" drive stuff. In this case though I was tightening 3/4" v-bolts that hold drill shanks to a frame and the 3/4 drive doesn't fit so well on the bottom side. I will admit there's been other times when I've grabbed the 1/2 when I should have grabbed 3/4, just because it's so much more wieldy.

Only reason I said non-Snapon was due to the price. I mean, I haven't even looked at how much they cost...just assuming it would be too much. But the fella that pointed out they make a 36" one has me intrigued.

I appreciate all the replies and ideas. Gonna look into that 30" SK as well.

 

[Wrench97]

Hold your chest when you click on the link> https://shop.snapon.com/product/SN36













;

 

[JR 42]

Makes the SK look like a deal...

 

[Steiger9]

Ha! Back to looking for non-Snapon

Honestly I may go that route if the cheaper options don't hold up. But that'll be years from now.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Killed the HF breaker bar? They'll bend quite a bit but mine has seen a 6' cheater a few times. But bouncing is really hard one them dynamic loads and all. I now have the 30inch SK XXL breaker as an option as well. I bent it slightly on a honda crank bolt I needed to remove in my garage, 4 ft cheater and everything I had. It's seen cheaters more than once too.


I haven't retired my HF bar completely, and I have one at home too. Your other option is something like a long handle snap-on dual 80, with a cheater pipe. The ratchet mechanisms are comparable in strength to the breaker bar with normal load, not sure what bouncing would do to the equation. Perhaps the size sockets you're using facilitate moving the 3/4 drive? That, or getting a torch involved to loosen things up.

 

[Hiball]

That fork has some odd wear on it. The rolled over edge beneath the head (highlighted in blue), gouges on the tines (highlighted in red) and the wrinkles in chrome at the base (highlighted in yellow) make me think it has seen some unorthodox use in its short life.

I suspect it’s just the plating reacting to the steel flexing and moving underneath.

 

[CR888]

I typically prefer a US made equivalent, but the Duralast 24 inch has the desirable wrap around head. I have two of them and they haven't given any trouble, save for the handle slipping once in a while.

The finish and machining quality is typical for a high end Taiwanese tool, and the bar is a steal at $20 bucks.

Interesting you say the wrap around head is more 'desirable', I have both designs and prefer the one with the handle that is like a two pronged fork with the anvil in the centre. Anyone been able to fit a 1/2' drive anvil onto a 3/4" heavier duty handle? The flex on 1/2" handles 24"+ is a bit much IMO. I love the rigidness of 3/4" breakers.

 

[Jazz1]

Only breaker bar I ever broke had no name brand or country of origin stamped. I put a slight permanent bend in my Westward 1/2" breaker bar. 30 years later it has not broke

 

[mfewtrail]

Interesting you say the wrap around head is more 'desirable', I have both designs and prefer the one with the handle that is like a two pronged fork with the anvil in the centre. Anyone been able to fit a 1/2' drive anvil onto a 3/4" heavier duty handle? The flex on 1/2" handles 24"+ is a bit much IMO. I love the rigidness of 3/4" breakers.

In old threads, several here claimed that wrap around head style is stronger than the forked style.

 

[blackwire]

In old threads, several here claimed that wrap around head style is stronger than the forked style.

In the link below Tekton also claims an external head design is stronger.

https://www.tekton.com/breaker-bars?quantity=1&drive-size=3-8-in&length=18-in

 

[Pasha]

Just get a 3/4'' breaker bar with a 1/2'' reducer and be done with it. You can find the likes of Wright, Proto, Williams and SK ones on Ebay for dirt cheap.

 

[Farmall450]

I'd stick with the el cheapo. I've picked a Oliver 1850 off the ground with it's loader pushing down solely on the aforementioned breaker bar.

 

[WittHay]

A 3/4" bolt hasn't changed in 30 years. Years ago we used a good quality 1/2 drive 18" breaker bar with a cheater pipe or a 3/4 drive ratchet or breaker bar head

If somebody wants to use 24" or longer 1/2 drive tools for heavy duty applications, either you have to buy quality or buy in bulk from tool discounters. At least 3 HF breakers bars and a 24 to 26" 1/2 drive ratchet in some import brand and spread the work load among the cheap tools

Never broke a older Snap-on or Proto 18" breaker bar but have busted 3/4 to 1/2 Proto, Snap-on and Gray adapters. The Snap-on 3/4 and 1 drive stuff is beefy and doesn't take much to break a adapter

 

[Mgdoug3]

Not a great comparison but when I use a 3/4" drive breaker bar I would much rather use my Wright fork type than the Rural King/HF external head. The Wright doesn't bend but the el cheap will bend easy without a cheater pipe. I actually bent it at the head on the first use with no pipe. I'm sure cheap metal makes a difference.

 

[Fluelikesymptoms]

I once broke 2 hf breaker bars back to back, got a 3rd and it did the trick. I will say hf was very cool about it, I broke one, brought it back they gave me a new one, went back home immediately broke it, took it back once more and then that 3rd one was fine. They asked no questions or cared how I broke it, just grabbed me another and pushed me back out the door. I will say the warranty was nice, but I hate having tools break when your cars half tore apart. To me that makes cheap tools very inconvenient.

I now have a few old USA cman breaker bars that I would trust way more than the hf breaker bars.

About 2 months ago I added a William's breaker bar to an order I was placing on toolsdelivered.com, it was pretty cheap.

I'll admit I haven't really used the William's for any heavy duty stuff but I will be first chance because it seems really solid and the big *** knurled handle seems sturdy. I'm hoping my cheater bar will fit over the handle though haven't tried yet. I'm curious about the William's breaker bar performance because I've heard some whispers reading about it after I bought it, and a few people claim to have broke them rather easily.

I have to say until the William's proves itself to me, the USA cman are awesome and my go to. Those things have survived through hell and back.

 

[WittHay]

That fork has some odd wear on it. The rolled over edge beneath the head (highlighted in blue), gouges on the tines (highlighted in red) and the wrinkles in chrome at the base (highlighted in yellow) make me think it has seen some unorthodox use in its short life.

I have a Snap-on 18" with the same gouges on the yoke and marks on the anvil. Its from using the bar at more than a 90° angle. Like holding a socket on the inside of a frame rail and a high powered impact on the outside

 

[Onefastgsx]

I use Pittsburgh pro ratchets almost exclusively and never had an issue with any of them. But I've broken 3 of these breaker bars. I've got an old USA Craftsman breaker bar now and havent had any issues with it

 

[seber]

In the link below Tekton also claims an external head design is stronger.

https://www.tekton.com/breaker-bars?quantity=1&drive-size=3-8-in&length=18-in

As a machine design engineer I once did a stress analysis of the two designs for a different purpose. It turns out there is absolutely no difference in the stress and strain between the two. The difference in strength will come from materials and dimensions.

 

[Mr_B]

^
Sounds about right, the yoke on head still wants spread even if tekton diagrams not showing it.
Main reason ones with yoke on head hold up better is purely more material at cost of bulky design .
It one of those tools that alloy quality and manufacture treatment makes the real long term use difference ...
Some cheaper ones seem do good on initial tests but repeat use and fatigue and they short lived . Pitts pro nice for price but if using one a lot then you can do better and safer ...

 

[mrspeed]

As a machine design engineer I once did a stress analysis of the two designs for a different purpose. It turns out there is absolutely no difference in the stress and strain between the two. The difference in strength will come from materials and dimensions.

Thank you! I was staring at the Tekton trying to figure out how one design could be interesting better than the other and couldn't come up with any explanations. The only difference between the two diagrams is that one shows the stress and the other doesn't.

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