I have been planning to do this and your install has finally gotten me to the point that I want to get it done within the next week.
Can you tell me why you went with copper over black iron pipe?
Hey bry@an,
I answered your other question/thread but, I'll tell you here what you'd like to know. First off, I personally think Black pipe or, galvanized pipe are both SERIOUSLY UGLY! My RV garage (where the system is installed) and my two car garage are both my long time dreams. I've wanted a very nice, clean, well laid out garage FOREVER. And, in my retirement, I finally got one.
Well, obviously, if we knew we were going to purchase this home before it was built, I'd have had the air system installed INSIDE THE WALLS!! But, we happened upon this place in the painting stage which, meant it was already built.
So, what this all means is, I had to install my air system AFTER the garage was done. And, I wanted a very clean,
nice looking, well working, dependable system. And that meant to me, (since I was just about drummed out of the membership of GJ.com for even thinking of PVC) that COPPER was the only alternative.
I will say this. I do have a tad bit of plumbing experience. I'm not a plumber, just have done a bit of soldering and misc. plumbing over the last 50 years. So, obtaining some soldering experience and watching seasoned, experienced veteran plumbers over the years, sure helped me when it came time for all 38 solder joints.
The things about COPPER are:
1. Get both the female and male joint, REALLY CLEAN. All that means is, purchase the appropriate rotational wire brushes for the correct diameter pipe you're working with. If you plan on using both 1/2" and 3/4", then buy both internal and external round wire brushes for each. I also used stap sanding tape too. That helps for when a soldering joint is done and all cleaned and wiped off, you can run that sanding strap over it and make it look clean and nice.
2. Get good solder and, paste. You need good paste for quality joints. The solder, comes in a variety of mixtures. I got what I got. It's for plumbing, that's all I know.
3. "Time" your joints. That is, if you know you're going to have curves, turns, angles, etc., and, those have to line up with other curves, angles and more, then, cut all your pieces or, at least that section of the system and, even if you have to, build it on the ground or, on a work bench and, if needed, use a helper to lift a built section into place. That way, you'll get a much nicer, cleaner looking, more thought out look, of a system.
And this especially applies to valves or anything else that SCREWS INTO A SYSTEM. You see, if something screws into a system, and there's no wall clearance to do it, YOU'RE SCREWED. but, if you plan on this kind of joint, and make it before you assemble the rest of the system, then install your screwed parts into that system, you're covered.
4. I used my dads old "Acetylene/Air soldering torch" for this job. It's a bit more cumbersome due to it's less-than-portable arrangement. But, it's a hose and torch assembly so, in most cases like this, it was actually a lot easier to use than a hand held tank assembly even though I had to use a striker to lite the torch each time, no biggie at all. I also have a hand held, self lighting torch. I just elected to use my dads. It brought back memories of him while I was using it.
5. The technique of soldering is not all that complex. In fact, it's actually quite simple. If you elect to go copper, and, you're not that schooled on copper soldering, a tad bit of advice here. Purchase just a few extra fittings, i.e. unions, 90 degree bends, etc. Yes, it will cost you a couple of bucks extra but, you can practice your technique BEFORE it really counts on some carefully cut and placed components of your system. That will be some money WELL SPENT.
6. And speaking of technique, the art of soldering copper is what's known as "capillary" action. All that means is, when the parts are cleaned, basted with flux or paste, then assembled, you apply your torch heat in a uniform fashion, an inch to two away from the joint, and rotate that torch so that you get all the way around your joint. Then, after about 5 or more seconds of heat applied, touch the tip of the solder, to the actual joint edge.
If you've heated the two components adequately, the solder will **** itself right into the joint. You'll see that happen. If you haven't heated it adequately, the solder will just sit there and remain hard. But, do not heat it too much. This will cause your solder to spit and sort of "boil off". Solder has a mid-range to be applied. Too little and it won't melt, too much and you run the risk of damaging the retention to the copper components.
This is why I really emphasize the "PRACTICE" of soldering before you attack your system. Good luck and I hope yours turns out as "leak proof" as mine did, ON THE FIRST SHOT!!
Scott
