Bill Ramsey
Well-known member
There are just those tools that you don't need very often, but when you do need it, it's just awesome to have the "right tool." Every time I need to press something together, or apart, or punch something, or just apply some targeted but controlled force, I think, "%^$# I wish I had a small arbor press." I couldn't justify buying a new one for as little as I might use it, and they almost never come up for sale around here. So when this 3-ton Dake #1 came up on CL, I grabbed it.
It's got all the original parts, and a cool little adjustable depth stop. It works fine. The rust isn't as bad as it looks, and I think the application of the usual GJ rust-removal techniques can have it spiffed up. I've had it apart and the rack & pinion gears are in good shape. The ram moves smoothly with almost no slop. It has a 1/2" bore on the bottom of the ram, with a threaded hole for (I'm assuming) a set screw. I figure that's for holding punches or attachments. It might be an OEM feature, but I'm guessing some PO added that because it's not machined particularly well (but my machinist cousin has the reamer to correct that).
One question for those who have one: do you lube the gears and pinion shaft with grease or with oil? I would have thought a high-pressure grease, but notice the casting has a couple holes that would appear to be for oiling.
I know some of you may not think highly of these, or prefer hydraulic presses, etc. But like a good pair of needle-nose pliers, I think it'll be dang handy for those moments when nothing else serves quite as well (the BFH can't possibly solve all force problems, can it?). I have access to a 20T hydraulic press across town for those times when the heavy guns are required. Besides, for $75 I can at worst simply regard it as cool shop art.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=3853&pictureid=43459
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=3853&pictureid=43458
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=3853&pictureid=43460
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=3853&pictureid=43453
EDIT: SEE POST #10 FOR A LINK TO MORE PHOTOS
It's got all the original parts, and a cool little adjustable depth stop. It works fine. The rust isn't as bad as it looks, and I think the application of the usual GJ rust-removal techniques can have it spiffed up. I've had it apart and the rack & pinion gears are in good shape. The ram moves smoothly with almost no slop. It has a 1/2" bore on the bottom of the ram, with a threaded hole for (I'm assuming) a set screw. I figure that's for holding punches or attachments. It might be an OEM feature, but I'm guessing some PO added that because it's not machined particularly well (but my machinist cousin has the reamer to correct that).One question for those who have one: do you lube the gears and pinion shaft with grease or with oil? I would have thought a high-pressure grease, but notice the casting has a couple holes that would appear to be for oiling.
I know some of you may not think highly of these, or prefer hydraulic presses, etc. But like a good pair of needle-nose pliers, I think it'll be dang handy for those moments when nothing else serves quite as well (the BFH can't possibly solve all force problems, can it?). I have access to a 20T hydraulic press across town for those times when the heavy guns are required. Besides, for $75 I can at worst simply regard it as cool shop art.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=3853&pictureid=43459
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=3853&pictureid=43458
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=3853&pictureid=43460
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=3853&pictureid=43453
EDIT: SEE POST #10 FOR A LINK TO MORE PHOTOS
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