Find me a deep socket that fits this
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seber
Well-known member
The top appears to be round. Can't tell from the photo what the drive section would be.
Let loose a bit more information please;
What is it off of?
Has that been drilled out and has some remains of the bolt on the inside?
Can you give a couple of pictures of different angles?
Any other information you can give. Don't make the members pry each bit of information from you.
lg
no neat sig line
What is it off of?
Has that been drilled out and has some remains of the bolt on the inside?
Can you give a couple of pictures of different angles?
Any other information you can give. Don't make the members pry each bit of information from you.
lg
no neat sig line
Sevenhills1952
Well-known member
Yes more information. Can you replace it with a standard lock nut?
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This is a nut that holds the fork in place on a Segway ES2 electric scooter.
It needs to be a deep socket becasue that goes through this is the top of the fork and a wiring harness. So I need it to go over that plus fit inside a 24mm tube
In the first photo I posted I cut the for and what was left was still in there.
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That’s what I was thinking but I didn’t want to spend too much time fabricating one if one could be bought readily available. I just might file the tangs down and weld a piece of pipe long enough to make it work for my needs
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I’ve exhausted my Google fu skills and haven’t found much. Ill try making this one work and see if it does the trick. Since it’s already the correct OD and the spacing of the tangs are even all around I’m sure a file and a little bit of welding should do the trick
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MrSurly
Well-known member
Dremel is my go-to.
MrSurly
Well-known member
First, how much torque is required and second how deep is needed?
If low torque, you may not not even need tool steel or multiple teeth. Get a 3/8” pipe ******, use a hacksaw to cut the end so that it leaves two teeth.
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If low torque, you may not not even need tool steel or multiple teeth. Get a 3/8” pipe ******, use a hacksaw to cut the end so that it leaves two teeth.
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Sevenhills1952
Well-known member
A mechanic friend has a box filled with special tools he modified from Harbor Freight tools.
I was trying to remove a choke cable and he said "try this". It was a 15/16" deep socket he had cut a 1/4" slot in it. It was super easy, fit over the cable and undoing it by hand.
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I was trying to remove a choke cable and he said "try this". It was a 15/16" deep socket he had cut a 1/4" slot in it. It was super easy, fit over the cable and undoing it by hand.
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seber
Well-known member
I believe you are looking for a castellated socket. That one is rather small as they go, but searching on that term should get you somewhere.
ranger302
Well-known member
Tri-Groove Sockets on mcmaster.com around 30$
Sevenhills1952
Well-known member
All you need is a piece of plumbing pipe, right I.D. and O.D.
Cut to length you need.
Drill 1/4" hole 1" from one end
Put 1/4" steel rod 6" long in it
Other end mark to match the nut
Saw or grind marks down to match nut
Simple
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Cut to length you need.
Drill 1/4" hole 1" from one end
Put 1/4" steel rod 6" long in it
Other end mark to match the nut
Saw or grind marks down to match nut
Simple
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Maybe something here?
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/castle+nut+tool+sip+for+castle_21104400
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/castle+nut+tool+sip+for+castle_21104400
Is replacing the nut with a castellated/slotted nut an issue of fitment or threading?
If there is an issue with that route, then maybe try buying these. They'll be handy in the future! https://sktools.com/shop/bits-speciality-sockets-sets.html?specialty_socket_type=466
I, also, wonder whether the "splined fits all" sockets would work.
If there is an issue with that route, then maybe try buying these. They'll be handy in the future! https://sktools.com/shop/bits-speciality-sockets-sets.html?specialty_socket_type=466
I, also, wonder whether the "splined fits all" sockets would work.
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No those won’t work at all. The only access I have to this nut is from above so when removing it I can only engage the teeth that stick up. This nut is round and sits in a tube.
I only need to remove it for an adjustment and use the same nut and can not replace it with anything else.
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anndel
Well-known member
I found something like this on Ebay, a clutch removal tool:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gray-Motor...ools-Spanner-Wrench-Fit-for-GY6-/371847433938
Still looking but here's kind of a start.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gray-Motor...ools-Spanner-Wrench-Fit-for-GY6-/371847433938
Still looking but here's kind of a start.
Maybe just buy a single screw driver of sufficient width and file it or grind it or use a rotary tool on it to make an expanded version of a tamper resistant slotted screwdriver.
My Craftsman seem soft enough to be easily reduced. Kobalt at Lowe's should be the same screwdrivers. Any made by Western Forge with the acetate handles would be the same regardless of brand.
My Craftsman seem soft enough to be easily reduced. Kobalt at Lowe's should be the same screwdrivers. Any made by Western Forge with the acetate handles would be the same regardless of brand.
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I would get a pc of 1/2" schedule 40 pipe, a hack saw & file and make my own
like Gatlibs said, I would take either a wide screwdriver or larger piece of flat stock and weld it to a socket. you should be able to engage two flats across the nut, if you need clearance for the stud grind out a bit of clearance in the middle. I had to make a socket like that for a bike and just welded flat stock to a junk socket and it worked fine.
if it slips add some valve grinding compound on the end and it will not slip.
if it slips add some valve grinding compound on the end and it will not slip.
casmurbax
Well-known member
http://www.stanleyblackanddecker.co...p20800_04.socketsdrivetoolsandaccessories.pdf
they show spline sockets 1/4 and 3/8 drive and lists the specs and a product ID to so you could search from there.
they show spline sockets 1/4 and 3/8 drive and lists the specs and a product ID to so you could search from there.
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atomicpunk
Well-known member
Thanks for all the suggestions folks but unfortunately I don’t think I’ll be able to purchase anything that will work with this. As I stated before I’ll be modifiying this one to fit my needs and if that doesn’t work I’ll make one out of pipe. I’ll update this once I find some time to actually do it and show how it works
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Find a bigger deep-well socket that will fit over it, like a 24-25mm, and cut a flat piece of steel that just fits inside the socket width-wise. Tap it all the way down to the end of the socket.
This way you'll have a deep-well, plus it will have an internal slat that engages two of the castleations, and you made no permanent modifications to the socket. Just knock the steel back out if you want the socket back to normal.
This way you'll have a deep-well, plus it will have an internal slat that engages two of the castleations, and you made no permanent modifications to the socket. Just knock the steel back out if you want the socket back to normal.
gjusername
Well-known member
Hello, fellow Bird mechanic! I've been trying to figure out what tool I need to make this adjustment as well, which is how I found this thread. Please do update when you figure something out.
Do you have any tips on how the adjustment is done? I see a huge nut on the bottom of the fork, and this nut on the top/inside. Is this one just the locknut and the bottom one for the adjustment?
Sevenhills1952
Well-known member
Early on Michael posted this. With the correct size piece of pipe you could make a tool in less than an hour.
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So the first pic is what you see when you remove the pole from the base. The wiring comes through the center. The only way to remove this nut is to engage the teeth all the while avoiding to damage the wiring. This nut holds the fork in place and needs to be removed so you can access the lower bearing nuts.
The second photo shows what’s actually under the frame tube. #2 is what you see under the rubber boot above the spring. #1 is the actual nut that adjust bearing/steering play and is what’s responsible for loose poles if it’s not the four screws that hold it to the base.
I’ve been able to get some adjustable pliers to tighten #1, then tighten #2 to lock it in place.
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Since I already have this donor I’ll be using it instead of cutting up a socket for better fit and engagement. That nut is on there pretty tight so the more teeth the better.
I’m not using it to remove the nut fully but just enough to drop the fork some so I have better access the top nut.
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Would a similarly sized version of these work?
https://sktools.com/shop/external-torx-plusr-socket-set-13-pc.html
You'd have a set for external torx if so. It appears that E5 is 4.43 mm which is a bit less than 4.79mm. The external would be determined by the
manufacturer's design. blog.mutualscrew.com/blog/assets/content/Torx.png
The SK torx plus look a little bit more universal/forgiving than the regular female torx from SK. Of course I'm guessing that any external torx would fit given that chart's figure. You could probably find somewhere that sells individuals of a cheapo in case you need to file or adapt it a tad like cutting out the side of it to be a oxygen sensor styled socket for those wires.
https://sktools.com/shop/external-torx-plusr-socket-set-13-pc.html
You'd have a set for external torx if so. It appears that E5 is 4.43 mm which is a bit less than 4.79mm. The external would be determined by the
manufacturer's design. blog.mutualscrew.com/blog/assets/content/Torx.png
The SK torx plus look a little bit more universal/forgiving than the regular female torx from SK. Of course I'm guessing that any external torx would fit given that chart's figure. You could probably find somewhere that sells individuals of a cheapo in case you need to file or adapt it a tad like cutting out the side of it to be a oxygen sensor styled socket for those wires.
lbhsbz
Well-known member
And we'll all laughed at the gator grip socket.
Guess there is a need after all
I received one of those for christmas about 15 years ago...laughed at it and threw it in the toolbox.
There have probably been 20 or 30 times where that thing has gotten me out of a bind. Its definitely a good thing to have around.
^^^ This ^^^
I was wondering while reading this when someone would recommend a large screwdriver.