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Finish for Cherry wood?

slowtwitch73

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What's the bees knees for Cherry? I built a vanity that needs finishing.

I did a test with 6 or so products I had laying around, and they all look the same for all intents and purposes...looks like the wood was whetted slightly.. mostly polys but also tried blo and a Tung blend. Not real enthused with any of them.

Don't want to use Waterlox.

Anything else that works well? Can't spray, prefer wipe on ....
 
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brianh

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For wipe on I use an oil base poly thinned 30% mineral spirits with a lint free rag. Sand between coats with 600. It will come out like glass.
 

Dagny

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I made a very large cribbage board out of cherry in 78 put many coats of satin deftane on it still looks great.
 

FredWanaker

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really depends on what color and finish you want. I used a cherry with a few drops of walnut in it for a custom stain, and then used poly sprayed on over it for the final finish I wanted. I have used tung oil over top of stains before but they are so much work to get a glass finish, and like linseed oil, tung oil on rags can self combust.
 

larry4406

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I did a fireplace mantle several years ago from solid cherry.

Used boiled linseed oil hand rubbed into it; forgot how many coats. Followed that with several coats of satin poly which I buffed with 0000 steel wool between coats (two coats poly first before any buffing).

Beautiful depth and finish.
 

kmacht

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You are putting a clear coat on them. What exactly were you expecting for looks between the products? Unless you put some stain on them they are all going to look pretty much the same as the clear oils have no color in them that would change the look. The only difference will be how glossy or how deep you want the clear to be.
 

mike93lx

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I've really liked using water based poly. No odor and no yellowing. 5-6 coats has gotten me durable, smooth finishes for a few projects.
 
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slowtwitch73

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You are putting a clear coat on them. What exactly were you expecting for looks between the products? Unless you put some stain on them they are all going to look pretty much the same as the clear oils have no color in them that would change the look. The only difference will be how glossy or how deep you want the clear to be.
Different depth and hues. One of the polys had color in and it and looks the best. I wasnt expecting the two oils to look so similar to poly.
 

jar944

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I prefer just a clear lacquer. If you want a bit more depth an oil finish applied before the clear can help.
 

alinc100

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Putting cherry out in the sun will get it to 80-90% of it's eventual dark,rich color. A wiping varnish,BLO ,sanding/steel wool in between.
 

exmaxima1

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I've really liked using water based poly. No odor and no yellowing. 5-6 coats has gotten me durable, smooth finishes for a few projects.
I like it as well. I tried the Minwax brand and didn't like the results. Then tried General Finishes brand (from Rockler or HD) and had great results. It sprays well and is very durable.

Here's a stereo console I built and sprayed it over unfinished walnut---no darkening of the natural wood
 

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Kobuck

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This is Owatrol oil over rough sawn cherry in my shop
 

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theoldwizard1

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If you like low luster and are willing to work for it, natural pure "drying oils" (boiled linseed oil, tung oil. Danish oil) are the way to go. It will take multiple coats. It will look better after each coat, but it will take longer to "cure". I would not place anything on the surface for at least a week after the final coat.
 

toolmiser

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I make our kitchen cabinets out of cherry about 10 years ago. We thought cherry with just a clear coat was bland, and we didn't want it dark, so I used Boiled linseed oil, let it cure for about a week, and applied polyurethane over that. It has a very nice warm tone to them, not too light, but not dark at all. Bottom line is apply to make it what you want. BTW, my wood was naturally dried and that could also make a difference.
 

Cjb1979

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I think it has a pleasant smell, almost like honey. The aroma only last for 3 days or so. I always use the pure ( no color added) along with the accelerator. The accelerator just speeds up the cure time from 21 days to around 7. I’ve used it on probably a dozen projects, from tables to desks to a filing cabinet. Super easy to work with and very forgiving.
 

kbs2244

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as noted; cherry changes color with exposure to sunlight
make sure you have ir pre-exposed or kept in a shaded place
 

jar944

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as noted; cherry changes color with exposure to sunlight
make sure you have ir pre-exposed or kept in a shaded place

It will darken even if kept covered and in the dark. Sunlight just speeds up the process, as does potassium dichromate.
 

brothernov

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My general finish for cherry starts with an application of BLO (boiled linseed oil) followed a few days later with a coat of de-waxed garnet shellac to seal, add some richness and provide a barrier layer that will take pretty much any top coat you prefer. I usually use a wipe on oil-based varnish, such as Waterlox (phenolic resin based) or Pratt and Lambert #38 thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits. With wipe on varnish, you'll want to do 8-12 coats over a few days and then let it cure for a few weeks before you do any kind of polishing.

I'm not a polyurethane fan, except for use on floors.
 
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slowtwitch73

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I went ahead with BLO because I had it on hand and wanted to get on with it. Looking good so far after 2 coats... better on a large area than the small test I did. Need to figure what if anything I'll do over that. I'll post pics when done.

This is a light use vanity with an integerated ceramic sink counter, so no horizontal surface to consider.
 
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slowtwitch73

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Here it is.. glad to wrap it up.

The bathroom was previously **** brown with a black vanity, black mirror frame, and bronze fixtures..:unsure:

IMG_20220313_142222176_HDR.jpgIMG_20220313_142233826_HDR.jpg
 
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