SweetD
Well-known member
Sounds like a business opportunity - reasonably priced fire extinguishers that aren't factory defects from the get-go...
all i have in my house is amerex... A good friend of mine pointed out to me when i asked about the quality of amerex fire extinguishers said, "go to the hd or lowes. They sell kidde but use amerex to protect their stores".
Creep, can you give us a run down of how many fire extinguishers a house should have and where they should be located?
I have a basic three bedroom, two floor house with an attached garage (think: the Simpson's house). I see a need for an extinguisher in the garage and in the kitchen. I have one in the upstairs laundry room too. But should I have one in the basement? Are there any other places that I am missing?
Thanks for your advice!
I think garages, kitchens are the big ones, but the laundry room is great place to have one since dryer fires are fairly common (clean your lent traps and exhaust tubes). The basement would also be a good idea. I think bedrooms are overkill, to be honest. Just make sure you have working smoke detectors throughout your house.
We want extinguishers in places where you would likely already be there in the event of a fire breaking out. If you want extinguishing capabilities everywhere in your home, sprinklers are a great idea, but they are uncommon in residential applications because of their cost.
All that to say, if you have a small incipient fire in your home and have an extinguisher close by, try that. If it doesn't work, get out and call 911. Do NOT go run for another extinguisher.
All good suggestions.
This is exactly why you want to buy an extinguisher sufficiently large for the job. Don't assume that two smaller ones are just as good.
Get extinguishers with a hose. The smaller ones are smaller than you think since they don't empty fully if you don't hold them vertical. Because there is a natural tendency to point it down to the base of the fire, it is almost impossible to empty an extinguisher without a hose. With the hose, you naturally hold the hose in one hand and aim. The other hand holds the valve, so the cylinder is kept vertical without thinking about it, and everything works as it should.
BTW, I always suggest that an extinguisher be placed near an exit. You never want to be in a situation where the fire is between you and your best exit. Putting an extinguisher near an exit ensures that you are approaching the fire, extinguisher in-hand, with a clear path back to the exit behind you.
I think garages, kitchens are the big ones, but the laundry room is great place to have one since dryer fires are fairly common (clean your lent traps and exhaust tubes). The basement would also be a good idea. I think bedrooms are overkill, to be honest. Just make sure you have working smoke detectors throughout your house.
We want extinguishers in places where you would likely already be there in the event of a fire breaking out. If you want extinguishing capabilities everywhere in your home, sprinklers are a great idea, but they are uncommon in residential applications because of their cost.
All that to say, if you have a small incipient fire in your home and have an extinguisher close by, try that. If it doesn't work, get out and call 911. Do NOT go run for another extinguisher.
Here's a few things to keep in mind.
Know how to use your extinguisher. Somebody that knows how to use one can be more effective with a smaller one than an unknowledgabe person with a big one.
Call the 911 or the fire dept. Get them there and let them check things out. They may have a thermal imaging camera and see things you don't. You already pay taxes, use that to your advantage. Most insurance companies want a copy of a fire report anyways.
Mount your extinguisher by the door. Generally in a home garage, mount them by a door.(in a large commericial facility/bldg, consult your local FD for placement) If you feel that you can put out the fire then put it out, if not, get out.
Try it before you use it If you're going to use it, pull the pin and approach the fire. Before you get to close, give the extinguisher a quick squeeze to make sure it works. If it doesn't, get out.
Get close enough to use it. You can't be across the room to use an extinguisher. You need to be close enough to feel the heat, before you start attacking the fire. If you try, get scared or are afraid, then get out.
Sweep across the fire. When you do make the attack, squeeze the handle and sweep across the fire. Don't blast directly at the fire. If you have apan of grease buring in the kitchen, and point it directly in the pan, you will blow grease all over.
Don't turn your back on the fire. Simple enough ? Whether you put it out or can't put it out, do not turn away, back away and keep your eyes on the fire and get out.
If you haven't guessed, the most important thing, I try to stress is to get out. When we do fire safety for the schools, the thing we repeat the most is this;
Get out and stay out!
Everything in the house/garage can be replaced, you can not be replaced.
Yes, I know the Purple K is BC. I keep it in the garage specifically for an engine fire or similar flammable liquid situation. I have an ABC nearby. I would love to get a 20lb Co2, but they are so expensive.First, I just want to make sure you know that Purple K is a high performance BC extinguisher. I assume you know that, but just want to make sure you're not relying on it should you need it for a Class A fire.
As long as it is in the green, you are good. It may have leaked down slightly since it was last serviced, or the technician may have just pressurized it less than usual (I try to pressurize them to the high side of the green zone in case they do develop a small leak after leaving the shop).
Purple K should not cost any more to be serviced than an ABC, as long as it has not been discharged. The powder will be reused, so you are not costing the service company anything beyond their normal overhead, unless you need new parts like a valve stem, gauge, etc.
Your older Badger may or may not still have parts available for it, but the extinguisher company will know when they look at it. Even if they don't have parts, they can still try to service it using the existing parts. Sometimes a good cleaning and some Vaseline is all it takes to ensure a good seal.
Creep, I've been in the Fire Protection industry for 20 years. I can tell you, and the others that you obviously have a love for your job and are very knowledgeable about what you do. Good info and taking the time to explain it are indicators of a good Technician. I work for one of if not the biggest Fire Protection companies in north Louisiana (Shreveport). If you ever consider moving to my area and want to learn and work in the other areas of Fire Prot. (ie Sprinkler, Fire Alarm, Special Hazzards etc) PM me.
We start out good on pay. Great benefits, CONTINUOUS training, NICET certification testing is paid for. Not just the test, but the time for you to go take it. ALL the OT you can handle and a company truck.
What licenses do you carry?
You have a good thread running here and have been providing great information. I've tried to steer clear of it as not to confuse the "uninformed" with varying opinions on extinguishers.
I'd prefer that people mount their extinguishers near an exit like another member has mentioned. Grab the extinguisher or get out. If you feel uncomfortable trying to use it, don't try it and just simply get yourself and family out.
You can have the best and/or the most expensive extinguisher in the world, but if you don't know how to use it or are scared to use it, it does you absolutely no good to have. When in doubt, get out. Call 911.
From another thread.
Kiddie extinguishers is all I have in my garage and home. After reading this article I am concerned that they may not be reliable. Just to be sure, I will take the oldest one and use it next week. I can find an extinguisher company near me and inquire about used ones to replace the Kiddies.
Thanks "creep" for posting this information.
Are there any clean agent ABC fire extinguishers that are reasonably priced?
After looking at the price of a few of the clean agent ABC ones I am considering getting a CO2 and a water one for the shop. I have had to clean up after a few dry chem ABC and would rather use a clean agent. Although I am sure even the dry chem are easier to clean up after than a fire.
The water one should be cheap enough to refill I can just use water for practice then put in antifreeze solution when I do the final fill. What should I be expecting to spend to get a 10 or 20 pound CO2 extinguisher refilled? I haven't used an extinguisher since fire fighter day in first grade so I figure a little practice wouldn't hurt.
A good thread. I do not know the requirements for commercial use in your state, but Oregon Fire Code, 2010 Edition references NFPA 10-2010. General has been out of business since about 1973. As such, General FX are not to be recharged or pressure tested. Dry chem made prior to Oct 1984 are not to be recharged, but removed from service. Water type older than 1971 are to be removed from service. Extinguishers that were manufactured by a company that is not longer in business are not to be recharged but removed from service. The yellow Generals were a great extinguisher, worked well and were easy to service. Then they started making less expensive extinguisher. But they are to be removed from commercial service, as UL listed parts are not available, nor is there any factory support.
As far as selling or giving non-compliant extinguishers away, not at my company. Those non-compliant FX will be left at the customers place of business with our labels, tags and seal removed. The Invoice notes that non-compliant FX have been left on site. Those that my tech bring back are taken apart and disposed of. Why would I expose myself or my company to selling non-compliant extinguishers?
UL tests extinguishers for controlling a particular fire using a particular fuel load, and a particular burn time. To my knowledge, UL does not have standards for pressure retention. Kidde extinguishers are not known for their ability to hold pressure. We do not recharge Kidde, or most First Alert. Odd how Home Depot sells Kidde plastic valve extinguishers, but uses Amerex, Ansul, Badger, and Buckeye to protect their stores.
At least 20 years ago, the Oregon FM did a survey on extinguisher use. Their findings, about 93% of extinguisehers used on a fire, controlled the fire until the FD arrived. National Association of Fire Equipment Distributors have done surveys since then and their findings are about the same.
Creep, thanks for the thread. It's a good one and very relevant.
There is a very good segment on Jay Leno's Garage about fire extinguishers and they discuss the different ratings and what is appropriate in a garage. The expert on the segment is Andrew Halasz, who works for Amerex. I know him and he's been there for years and really knows his stuff.
In the segment, IIRC, he recommends Halon or a Halon equivalent (Halotron?) over the dry chemical for a garage because for a small fire, the dry chemical extinguishers make a huge mess. I know this from experience as my Dad put out an engine fire on his boat and the powder got absolutely everywhere. A halon unit would have made no mess and worked just as well in the engine compartment.
Here's the Amerex website in case anyone wants to see their stuff. I don't think they sell their stuff direct so you have to find a distributor:
http://amerex-fire.com/products/
Interesting factoid about the segment on Leno's Garage; they demonstrated a dry chemical extinguisher on an intentional fire outside the building. Someone from some California state agency saw the segment and fined Leno and Amerex for discharging the extinguisher outside. Crazy.
Just out of curiosity, since Halon is heavier than air. How can it be damaging to the ozone layer?

Just out of curiosity, since Halon is heavier than air. How can it be damaging to the ozone layer?
OK, what's the bottom line? If I'm the kind of guy with Snap-on tools, a lift and other expensive things in a nice garage with an epoxy floor...you know the drill...and I've decided to get the best for my garage. What do I get? Ansul or Amerex I guess. Do I get CO2 or ABC powder? One of each? More than one of each? One huge one or a dozen small ones? Halon? One for each garage bay? One for each hand? What's reasonable without being ridiculous?
