First "pro" tools, need reassurance

[Codejack]

HF one seems pretty decent and I'd try one out if saw it it at 79bucks with coupon .

That is the plan; I'm certainly not planning on buying anything more expensive from them any time soon.

Quite handy when mobile but they still pretty bulky and 3 times size of my stubby 3/8 air ratchet.

I'm trying to delay an air compressor as long as possible; I'm working in 3 different places, so dragging it around would ****, and all 3 places are in residential neighborhoods, so the noise of the kind of cheap compressor that I could afford right now would annoy the neighbors.

I suppose you got ask yourself what going be more useful time and problem solver out of battery ratchet or quality modern battery impact.
If doing lot of brake, suspension work I would say battery impacts more useful (still bit bulky though) and treat yourself to a battery ratchet when see a deal too good to miss .

Well, brake and suspension work is my bread and butter. That being said, I've got a corded impact for lugs and axle nuts, but a lot of ball joint and tie rod nuts are in too tight of a space to get it into; I guess the real question is, is the 60 ft-lb (or however much it actually has) listed for the HF ratchet going to be enough to loosen those nuts without just spinning the joint?

On the other hand, is the 3/8" impact gun still going to be too long to get to some nuts, e.g. upper ball joint nuts on wishbone suspensions?

Why do I get this sinking feeling that I am going to wind up getting both....

 

[Codejack]

For a one off the HF ratchet is probably decent. So if you have no interest in any of the other M12 tools then go for it.

Well, certainly not the rest of the M12 line; the HF 3/8" gun is 20V, which just walks all over the M12 gun. The M18 beats it, though... for twice the price.

 

[Mr_B]

I think battery tools are tricky purchase as they still too big for lot of usage scenarios and the 3/8 stuff bit underpowered to be super useful in situations where it does fit .
Out of ratchet and impact I would think 3/8 impact going be more useful to start with but like you say both is what needed really . I would let promotions dictate what i'm going buy first and if you not expecting buy other battery tools then you more open to brand options etc. I don't use battery tools much as love the power to size of stubby air tools and don't go mobile much so currently only have battery 1/2 impact and a 10.8v drill plus impact driver that gets used with 1/4 and 3/8 drive square adaptors for speed work .

 

[Tallpilot]

I think you will end up with both. They are just too handy. With no impacting I doubt the ratchet would loosen the castle nut on a ball joint. The M18 mid torque is 6.7". It's harder working on jack stands than a lift but measure next time you do one to see how much clearance you have. I use mine with Sunex swivels and it's powerful enough to take a castle nut right off with the cotter pin in. I usually don't do it that way though because I hate fishing the little pieces out.

If you don't want any M12 tools wait for a coupon on the HF ratchet. For your first big money tool the M18 mid torque is the most versatile. Small enough to fit many places and powerful enough to actually work. The 3/8 is slightly smaller but so wimpy it's too limited for your first tool.

 

[Codejack]

I think you will end up with both. They are just too handy. With no impacting I doubt the ratchet would loosen the castle nut on a ball joint. The M18 mid torque is 6.7". It's harder working on jack stands than a lift but measure next time you do one to see how much clearance you have. I use mine with Sunex swivels and it's powerful enough to take a castle nut right off with the cotter pin in. I usually don't do it that way though because I hate fishing the little pieces out.

If you don't want any M12 tools wait for a coupon on the HF ratchet. For your first big money tool the M18 mid torque is the most versatile. Small enough to fit many places and powerful enough to actually work. The 3/8 is slightly smaller but so wimpy it's too limited for your first tool.

Clearance on stands isn't the problem, it's getting behind the caliper or between the hub and upper control arm. The lower ball joint nut is usually not a problem.

I'm thinking that between the 12V 3/8" HF ratchet, either the HF or Milwaukee 18V 3/8" gun, and my corded impact, that I should be OK until I can get an air compressor.

 

[Tallpilot]

The Milwaukee tools look more expensive than they actually are because of the way they are advertised. The kits have two batteries and a charger that you pay basically $100 each for. The batteries can be found on EBay (the real ones, don't bother with fakes) for half that. Northern Tool always has $20 off $100 and CPO, Tyler Tool and Tool-Up routinely run $20 off or 10% off two bare tools.

So I paid $230 for my high torque and one battery then $169 for my mid torque bare and $50 for one more on EBay. Two tools and two batteries for $50 more than a 'kit' with one tool and two batteries.

So mix and match and look for sales. Do not pay $400 for a 'kit' and now Milwaukee is price competitive with HF and you have access to awesome drills, angle grinders, hackzalls, etc. I just got the Hackzall for $79 and I think it's going to be awesome for cutting exhaust parts off and maybe even for some junk yard scavenging.

HF is being very sly by not making any of their batteries compatible with any other tools. I won't buy them on that principle alone.

 

[Gmonkee]

I have been doing the suspension stuff without the fancy tools for a long time.
I can see the appeal but I am not flat rate and don't need to rush everything to make a good week.


Spend on this because you want to is one thing but as for being a need, not for all of us out there fixing old junk. You will get much more dollar mileage with a good breaker bar and halfer ratchet than relatively short lived battery tools. Mine both have 11 years in service without a fail.

But, I do understand the appeal of faster, less effort into a crummy old car repair.

 

[Codejack]

Ah, yea, part of the problem here is that I already have a pretty nice 18V DeWalt set for sawzall, drill, circular saw, etc, but I'm not shelling out the $ for their impact stuff.

The HF 20V 3/8" gun, with a battery, is $112 with a 20% coupon (seems like every weekend, around here).

The Milwaukee 18V 3/8" gun, without a battery, is $159, but more powerful. The batteries are $50, though.

On the other hand, Tyler Tools has the Milwaukee 12 ratchet for $99, without a battery, though, which is $25. That's reasonably close to the price of the HF ratchet, but it's less powerful.

 

[Tallpilot]

I have been doing the suspension stuff without the fancy tools for a long time.
I can see the appeal but I am not flat rate and don't need to rush everything to make a good week.

I had assumed this wasn't his primary job but something on the side for extra money. So he isn't really working flat rate but faster tools either lets him get home quicker or do another job and make more.

 

[Tallpilot]

Ah, yea, part of the problem here is that I already have a pretty nice 18V DeWalt set for sawzall, drill, circular saw, etc, but I'm not shelling out the $ for their impact stuff.

The HF 20V 3/8" gun, with a battery, is $112 with a 20% coupon (seems like every weekend, around here).

The Milwaukee 18V 3/8" gun, without a battery, is $159, but more powerful. The batteries are $50, though.

On the other hand, Tyler Tools has the Milwaukee 12 ratchet for $99, without a battery, though, which is $25. That's reasonably close to the price of the HF ratchet, but it's less powerful.

That changes things if you already have Dewalt. You really do get locked in with the tool systems and it doesn't make sense to start over. I started with Milwaukee so I just have to cross my fingers that they keep making the tools I want.

I would say the HF ratchet will speed you up and hold you over until you can figure out how to get air. Then you can get an Astro Nano and fit it anywhere you want. The Milwaukee makes a lot less sense if you don't plan on getting any other tools.

The HF batteries are so cheap if they turn out to not last very long you just pick up a couple more. I don't think it will break caliper bolts loose with the motor but a quick tap on it with your other hand to break torque manually then spin it right off.

What will the HF impact do that your corded one won't? I am not sure.

 

[Codejack]

I had assumed this wasn't his primary job but something on the side for extra money. So he isn't really working flat rate but faster tools either lets him get home quicker or do another job and make more.

Actually, this is my primary job, now; I'm not working flat rate, but at the same time, I'm not working in a full shop with lifts and such. I hope to get there before too long, but I'm having to make incremental additions to my arsenal.

That being said, the higher end cordless electric tools are competing with the kind of air compressor I need to do the same jobs:

https://www.harborfreight.com/29-gal-2-HP-150-PSI-Cast-Iron-Vertical-Air-Compressor-61489.html

But that would be a serious PITA to drag around.

 

[Codejack]

What will the HF impact do that your corded one won't? I am not sure.

My corded impact:

The HF 3/8" impact:

The Porter Cable unit is pushing 450 lb-ft of torque, which is great for axle nuts and crankshaft bolts, but it's also 13" long, so there are a lot of places that it simply will not fit, e.g. between wheel wells and caliper bolts, or between hubs and upper control arms.

The HF wrench only has 160 lb-ft (claimed, anyway; that's more than the Milwaukee, DeWalt or Kobalt units claim), but it's less than 7" long.

 

[Yarpo]

My corded impact:

The HF 3/8" impact:

The Porter Cable unit is pushing 450 lb-ft of torque, which is great for axle nuts and crankshaft bolts, but it's also 13" long, so there are a lot of places that it simply will not fit, e.g. between wheel wells and caliper bolts, or between hubs and upper control arms.

The HF wrench only has 160 lb-ft (claimed, anyway; that's more than the Milwaukee, DeWalt or Kobalt units claim), but it's less than 7" long.

Where are you getting it being more than the Milwaukee units? Their 3/8th impact is 210 and the 1/2 inch is 220. I use my 1/2 inch Milwaukee compact impact for just about everything. One of my favorite tools.

 

[Codejack]

Where are you getting it being more than the Milwaukee units? Their 3/8th impact is 210 and the 1/2 inch is 220. I use my 1/2 inch Milwaukee compact impact for just about everything. One of my favorite tools.

Ah, I'm getting mixed up because there are several different Milwaukee 3/8" tools:

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2454-20

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2658-20

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2754-20

 

[Yarpo]

Ah, I'm getting mixed up because there are several different Milwaukee 3/8" tools:

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2454-20

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2658-20

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2754-20

Haha yah they have tons of tools. I really like that last one you linked, I got it in half inch and it's been awesome. I'm not sure how I feel about that 12v impact but like others said above it all depends on what other tools you want to buy. Good luck and happy shopping!

 

[Codejack]

Haha yah they have tons of tools. I really like that last one you linked, I got it in half inch and it's been awesome. I'm not sure how I feel about that 12v impact but like others said above it all depends on what other tools you want to buy. Good luck and happy shopping!

Yea, for a gun, the 12V just won't cut it; for a ratchet, sure. The M18 1/2" has 1000 lb-ft of torque, so it had better be good! Also so big that it would just replace my corded unit.

I'm torn, at the moment; the HF 12V ratchet is more powerful than the M12 Milwaukee ratchet, but it's also a little bigger (~2" longer).

The Milwaukee M18 stuff is better then the HF equivalent, but also more expensive, even if I assume that I will buy multiple tools and share batteries.

I think maybe it makes sense to get the HF ratchet, since it's cheaper and I don't want any other M12 tools, but the Milwaukee M18 gun, on the assumption that I might want a cordless 1/2" impact in the future and can use the same charger and batteries for the big Milwaukee.

 

[Tallpilot]

That being said, the higher end cordless electric tools are competing with the kind of air compressor I need to do the same jobs:

But that would be a serious PITA to drag around.

The compressor would open up a lot more options and it would be great when you finally get your shop ready with a lift, etc. If you could keep it in your truck while you use it at each place it would work. If you have to lift 200 lbs up and down at every site you will tire of that very quickly. I don't think it would be that loud in residential areas because it shouldn't cycle too much with just an impact. If you start using an air hammer or a die grinder then of course it is going to run almost constantly.

This is a big decision point. ~$500 for a compressor and air tools or ~$500 for two M18 impacts, two batteries and the HF ratchet. What makes the most sense for the short run may not make sense for the long run.

It can be confusing comparing the Milwaukee tools. The best way is by number. The mid-torque 1/2" M18 impact with friction ring (the ball detent one would drive you insane working on cars) is 2861-20. It is the exact same length as the HF 3/8" but does 450 lbs/ft of torque. Since they are all more or less the same price it makes the most sense for your first one.

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2861-20

I think maybe it makes sense to get the HF ratchet, since it's cheaper and I don't want any other M12 tools, but the Milwaukee M18 gun, on the assumption that I might want a cordless 1/2" impact in the future and can use the same charger and batteries for the big Milwaukee.

That makes the most sense to me. The big Milwaukee is about 4 inches shorter than your corded one and makes over twice the torque.

 

[Codejack]

The compressor would open up a lot more options and it would be great when you finally get your shop ready with a lift, etc. If you could keep it in your truck while you use it at each place it would work. If you have to lift 200 lbs up and down at every site you will tire of that very quickly. I don't think it would be that loud in residential areas because it shouldn't cycle too much with just an impact. If you start using an air hammer or a die grinder then of course it is going to run almost constantly.

Yea, it couldn't stay in the vehicle, so lots of lifting up and down = no good.

The noise probably isn't a problem, but the people and cops in one area that I work are serious a-holes.

This is a big decision point. ~$500 for a compressor and air tools or ~$500 for two M18 impacts, two batteries and the HF ratchet. What makes the most sense for the short run may not make sense for the long run.

I've actually got my old Campbell-Hausfield air tools; 1/2" gun, 3/8" ratchet, etc. So I just need the compressor.

It can be confusing comparing the Milwaukee tools. The best way is by number. The mid-torque 1/2" M18 impact with friction ring (the ball detent one would drive you insane working on cars) is 2861-20. It is the exact same length as the HF 3/8" but does 450 lbs/ft of torque. Since they are all more or less the same price it makes the most sense for your first one.

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2861-20

I was actually thinking the 2754 (3/8") might be more useful... but it's only 3/4" shorter and costs as much as the 2861! WTF? I could just get the 1/2" and a 3/8" adapter.

That makes the most sense to me. The big Milwaukee is about 4 inches shorter than your corded one and makes over twice the torque.

Sounds like a plan.

Of course, these are not exactly at the top of my list; still filling out the socket set, then I've got to buy a welder and an angle grinder to fix this Miata I got for free

 

[gregpack]

I have the m12 3/8 " ratchet. It is especially useful in my non-automotive application. I have to unbolt electric motors fastened to a frame from underneath the motor just a few inches from a concrete floor and it's a real knuckle saver. You're right, it has very little torque and you have to manually break all nuts loose. But it's still a huge time saver running the fastener until it's snug. You'll be able to use the ratchet in and under the engine compartment where no impact can go.

It's probably not in your budget but if you get the 12V ratchet the little m12 impact driver is handy too with a set of bits and a socket adapter. It only has 100 pounds or so of torque, but with a 6" and 12" extension it can do the tedious work of removing/installing screws and small torx in seconds. I keep both in my tool bag.

I too am invested in Dewalt 18V but my 1/2" impact does not have much muscle- I think it is rated for 300 lbs. Its about to go on ebay. I plan on making the switch to Milwaukee 18V when my primary tool (hammer drill) gives up the ghost. I'll then be looking at the Milwaukee 1/2" mid torque.

 

[Codejack]

I have the m12 3/8 " ratchet. It is especially useful in my non-automotive application. I have to unbolt electric motors fastened to a frame from underneath the motor just a few inches from a concrete floor and it's a real knuckle saver. You're right, it has very little torque and you have to manually break all nuts loose. But it's still a huge time saver running the fastener until it's snug. You'll be able to use the ratchet in and under the engine compartment where no impact can go.

It's probably not in your budget but if you get the 12V ratchet the little m12 impact driver is handy too with a set of bits and a socket adapter. It only has 100 pounds or so of torque, but with a 6" and 12" extension it can do the tedious work of removing/installing screws and small torx in seconds. I keep both in my tool bag.

I too am invested in Dewalt 18V but my 1/2" impact does not have much muscle- I think it is rated for 300 lbs. Its about to go on ebay. I plan on making the switch to Milwaukee 18V when my primary tool (hammer drill) gives up the ghost. I'll then be looking at the Milwaukee 1/2" mid torque.

Makes sense, but then, it sounds like you are doing different things than I am.

These are all a ways off, though; my current (corded) impact has enough oomph to take care of axle nuts and crank bolts, which, along with getting lug nuts off quickly, is all I really need out of an impact wrench. The next one needs to be the right balance of power and size to get at upper ball joint nuts and brake caliper and bracket bolts.

I don't worry about battery compatibility; the cost of the battery is generally minor compared to the cost savings from buying the best of different brands, and if you are seriously using the equipment, then you are going through batteries quickly enough that it all evens out, anyway.

 

[cherrybomb]

I am going to compliment you on your thread.I like how you ask questions and wait for response from some very talented and experienced guys here.You do research on your options,before you spend.I have always questioned,and like you splurged on a Snap On ratchet,but I would never put a bar on it.A breaker is your best option.If I pull my ratchet out,I pull my breaker, people that break ratchets usually,not always are abusing them.My ratchet is important,I ask myself,if I abuse it,how do I get my work done till its repaired?So that being said,ask yourself,is there one tool or tools,that are used often or break, that maybe a professional upgrade will be better in the long run.Inconvenience of a damaged tool,hurts you performance and your customers expectations.Sometimes spending a bit more will save the day.Good luck!

 

[Codejack]

I am going to compliment you on your thread.I like how you ask questions and wait for response from some very talented and experienced guys here.

Thanks. I'm getting old enough, now, that I can be (a little!) patient, and have figured out that it is easier to learn from others' mistakes than your own

You do research on your options,before you spend.I have always questioned,and like you splurged on a Snap On ratchet,but I would never put a bar on it.A breaker is your best option.If I pull my ratchet out,I pull my breaker, people that break ratchets usually,not always are abusing them.My ratchet is important,I ask myself,if I abuse it,how do I get my work done till its repaired?

The funny thing is, I've had that Kobalt/Williams set for ~17 years, now, and went through 3 cheap breaker bars, always finishing the job by putting a bar on the 1/2" ratchet... which, unlike the cheap breaker bars, got the job done and always worked fine. Then my Dad lost it, and replaced it with a cheap POS from Ace Hardware that I never use, I put an adapter on the 3/8".

I've got a Pittsburgh breaker bar, now, that I've used several times, and it's holding up like a champ.

So that being said,ask yourself,is there one tool or tools,that are used often or break, that maybe a professional upgrade will be better in the long run.Inconvenience of a damaged tool,hurts you performance and your customers expectations.Sometimes spending a bit more will save the day.

I've actually been thinking about this.

The GF80 is fantastic; great action, medium back drag, but just smooth as silk. Perfect for a good, solid 3/8" ratchet that will be the most used, probably.

I'm looking at the 1/2" extendable ratchet from Harbor Freight for my main 1/2" driver, though; 72-teeth should be smooth enough, it's also a dual-pawl design just like Snap On's, and it combines the ratchet and a medium breaker bar into one tool. Since my 25" bar won't fit in my portable tool kit, this solves the problem and saves weight. I can always keep the big bar in the car and grab it if I really need it, and if I find myself accidentally breaking the ratchet, I'll buy 2 so I have a backup until I get the broken one warrantied, and still come out cheaper than a single SO ratchet

On the other side, I'm looking at the HF 1/4" flex head for that size. I can always put an adapter on the GF80 if I really need the smooth action, so I see no reason to buy the 1/4" and 1/2" versions when I can get some better options for a lot less money, and still have 90% of the same capability.

----------------------------------------------

A note on the GF80; I don't know what kind of "Industrial Finish" Snap On puts on their tools, but it is a sick joke, at least around here. Of course, where I live, the humidity is a physical thing

My tool kit hasn't left my temperature-controlled shop except to go out to turn a few bolts since I've had it, but if I leave it for a few days and come back, there will be a red dusting all over it, even if I oil it before putting it up.

At the same time, I don't want to hot blue or do anything like that to it; is there a better oil/protectant I can put on this thing, should I look into gun bluing it, OSPHO, or is it just how it is and I need to store it in an oil cloth or something?

The phosphate-coated gearwrench sockets aren't having this problem.

 

[Tallpilot]

I've actually got my old Campbell-Hausfield air tools; 1/2" gun, 3/8" ratchet, etc. So I just need the compressor.


I was actually thinking the 2754 (3/8") might be more useful... but it's only 3/4" shorter and costs as much as the 2861! WTF? I could just get the 1/2" and a 3/8" adapter.

That's great that you already have the air tools. You can't do better for than that HF 29 gal for less than twice the price unless you can find a used one that was cared for. I find the good used ones are 240V though and I don't have an outlet in my shop.

Some people like the 3/8 but my conclusion is 3/4" shorter isn't worth losing over half the power. If I really need a little more clearance a swivel works. I suspect a new version of the 3/8 will come out eventually that will be powerful enough to actually be worth it.

Let me know what you figure out with a welder. I am going to need one eventually too.

 

[Codejack]

That's great that you already have the air tools. You can't do better for than that HF 29 gal for less than twice the price unless you can find a used one that was cared for. I find the good used ones are 240V though and I don't have an outlet in my shop.

I've got 220, and I can always wire in a new circuit (yes, I was an apprentice electrician, too!), but looking at $800 for one of those, and I wouldn't buy a used compressor around here; they rust through too quickly if not drained often.

I'm not the biggest compressor expert, though, so I'm still trying to figure out why that unit is $360 for a 2hp while the 2.5hp unit is only $180.... but produces lower cfm?

What is different about that air compressor, so that I can search for that feature?

Some people like the 3/8 but my conclusion is 3/4" shorter isn't worth losing over half the power. If I really need a little more clearance a swivel works. I suspect a new version of the 3/8 will come out eventually that will be powerful enough to actually be worth it.

That's more or less my attitude; I'll just get the ratchet in 3/8".

Let me know what you figure out with a welder. I am going to need one eventually too.

I'm probably going to get that from a pawn shop, to be honest. Solid state electronics are pretty much bulletproof, these days, and if I wanted to re-engineer the thing, I would just build it from scratch.

Either that, or I'll get on Linkedin to hit up my old college classmate who now works as an engineer for Lincoln Electric to see if he can get me a discount

 

[Mr_B]

HF pitts pro extendible 1/2 ratchet decentenough, ratchet is smooth/precise once greased .
Less than 15 bucks with coupon plus no hassle warranty .
Toptul do a nice one with twist lock and handle has no slop but it more than double the cost plus slower warranty process .
I had one (never broke) and it now in wifes car for easy tire changes as got a 3pc used set of ez red flexi lockable extendible ratchets .
They do come in handy for when breaker bar too long fit or bit over the top for the job plus with ratchet easier and faster .

Funny why your snappy ratchet rusting so easy, cheap impact sockets done same finish have little issue ! could try clear wood wax on it and leave over night till hard then buff off .

 

[Codejack]

HF pitts pro extendible 1/2 ratchet decentenough, ratchet is smooth/precise once greased .
Less than 15 bucks with coupon plus no hassle warranty .
Toptul do a nice one with twist lock and handle has no slop but it more than double the cost plus slower warranty process .
I had one (never broke) and it now in wifes car for easy tire changes as got a 3pc used set of ez red flexi lockable extendible ratchets .
They do come in handy for when breaker bar too long fit or bit over the top for the job plus with ratchet easier and faster .

Perfect; this is supposed to be a "portable" kit, and it's getting pretty heavy...

Funny why your snappy ratchet rusting so easy, cheap impact sockets done same finish have little issue ! could try clear wood wax on it and leave over night till hard then buff off .

I'll try that, thanks. I'm not sure it's the same finish, though; Snap On says "Industrial Finish," which could just be a black oxide or fume blue, while the GW sockets have a phosphate coating.

Like I said, the humidity around here is a physical thing; coming out of an air-conditioned building in the summer is like being hit by a giant, damp pillow.

The jet stream turns north, here, ***** moist air up from the Gulf, which hits the mountains and drops the water, and with nowhere for the heavy, wet air to go (it's either up the mountains or back the way it came), it just sits.

This week is supposed to be 90° with 80% humidity.

 

[Mr_B]

assumed would of been phosphate as half decent corrosion resistance, oxide is pretty useless and quite absorbent sort of dry texture so likely pick up moisture easy in your current climate, wax rubbed in well on oxide may work quite well hopefully :-/

 

[Tallpilot]

I've got 220, and I can always wire in a new circuit (yes, I was an apprentice electrician, too!), but looking at $800 for one of those, and I wouldn't buy a used compressor around here; they rust through too quickly if not drained often.

I'm not the biggest compressor expert, though, so I'm still trying to figure out why that unit is $360 for a 2hp while the 2.5hp unit is only $180.... but produces lower cfm?

What is different about that air compressor, so that I can search for that feature?

That is my thinking on a used compressor. Down here in Florida anything I have that isn't chrome will get rust spots in days. No matter how much WD-40 or fluid film I spray on them before storage. I can't imagine how nasty a cast iron compressor tank would be unless the owner babied it every day and if that is the case why is he selling it?

Also a good question...the sustained flow is certainly worth paying twice as much for but how does an 8 gal bigger tank and 25 more psi equal over 2 psi more CFPM?

 

[Codejack]

OK, I just had to post this because it was so funny:

I was down at the insurance liquidator today looking for impact sockets (they have boxes of loose Craftsman USA sockets for $3-4), when I saw this kit on the floor for $137:

Now before you get all excited, that is the Made in China stuff, not the Taiwan stuff, but that's not what amused me. Here's the box I just bought:

Well, at least the box was made in the USA

I've got most of the sizes covered, though, with more wrenches, for about the same money.

 

[Mr_B]

lol, black looks better also ...

 

[Tallpilot]

Yeah, and you don't have crappy raised panel ratchets. Interesting place to look for tools though. I should do more 'hunting' but I am lazy and like stuff delivered to my door.

 

[Codejack]

Yeah, and you don't have crappy raised panel ratchets. Interesting place to look for tools though. I should do more 'hunting' but I am lazy and like stuff delivered to my door.

I have bought some weed trimmers and blowers from this place, along with a few odds and ends. They have a ton of Craftsman stuff with damaged boxes, etc, so on sale cheap, including 3 big boxes full of USA sockets.

Unfortunately, nothing I need since I went all impact

 

[jd_1138]

I have bought some weed trimmers and blowers from this place, along with a few odds and ends. They have a ton of Craftsman stuff with damaged boxes, etc, so on sale cheap, including 3 big boxes full of USA sockets.

Unfortunately, nothing I need since I went all impact

There's a store like that near here.

Speaking of Craftsman tools, someone just gave my friend a house that the person had inherited and didn't want. I was over there the other day helping him with the plumbing. We went down to the basement, and there's a really nice work bench with 3 all metal Craftsman 3 and 4 drawer toolboxes on the bench. All 3 were filled to bursting with USA Craftsman sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers, allen, hex, odds/ends. Looked to be mostly 1990's-2000's vintage. No rust on them. And there's a Delta table saw and a planer down there too.

There was a large (but still portable) Mac box full with mostly Ridgid plumbing tools, pipe cutters, etc.. It was all USA made Ridgid stuff mostly in that plumbing box. That must've been the deceased gentleman's go to plumbing box.

My friend didn't even notice the tools. I asked if the tools were included with the house, and he said his friend told him everything there was his. My friend doesn't care about tools (not mechanical at all).

 

[Codejack]

There's a store like that near here.

Speaking of Craftsman tools, someone just gave my friend a house that the person had inherited and didn't want. I was over there the other day helping him with the plumbing. We went down to the basement, and there's a really nice work bench with 3 all metal Craftsman 3 and 4 drawer toolboxes on the bench. All 3 were filed to bursting with USA Craftsman sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers, allen, hex, odds/ends. Looked to be mostly 1990's-2000's vintage. No rust on them. And there's a Delta table saw and a planer down there too.

There was a large (but still portable) Mac box full with mostly Ridgid plumbing tools, pipe cutters, etc.. It was all USA made Ridgid stuff mostly in that plumbing box. That must've been the deceased gentleman's go to plumbing box.

My friend didn't even notice the tools. I asked if the tools were included with the house, and he said his friend told him everything there was his. My friend doesn't care about tools (not mechanical at all).

Hey, free tools are always awesome!

One day maybe I'll get lucky like that

 

[jd_1138]

Hey, free tools are always awesome!

One day maybe I'll get lucky like that

I inherited a full set of 1980's Montgomery Ward's Powr-Kraft SAE/metric tools from my stepdad. I love them. They're all USA made quality tools. It's wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, hex, allen, cold chisels, punches, feeler gauges, you name it.

Also, he had a sort of half complete set of SK that I also inherited. I added to that to get it mostly complete.

Inherited tools are even sweeter, because you're reminded of your loved one every time you pick one of the tools up. But I'd rather have my stepdad here alive than the tools. My own personal set of tools that I bought myself before I inherited these is USA Craftsman. So now I have 3 sets. I keep the CM set out in the shed.

 

[Codejack]

I inherited a full set of 1980's Montgomery Ward's Powr-Kraft SAE/metric tools from my stepdad. I love them. They're all USA made quality tools. It's wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, hex, allen, cold chisels, punches, feeler gauges, you name it.

Also, he had a sort of half complete set of SK that I also inherited. I added to that to get it mostly complete.

Inherited tools are even sweeter, because you're reminded of your loved one every time you pick one of the tools up. But I'd rather have my stepdad here alive than the tools. My own personal set of tools that I bought myself before I inherited these is USA Craftsman. So now I have 3 sets. I keep the CM set out in the shed.

Growing up, my Dad had **** like "Medallion" brand sockets from Japan, from the 1960s. ****, in other words

He was the one who took me to buy my first Craftsman combination wrenches when I was 15; "they're expensive, but quality is worth it," he said. This was ~1993, right in the middle of the really bad Cman stuff, so I don't think much of the brand.

Dad was never much of a hands-on guy, though; if it was more complicated than changing the drive belt on a lawnmower, it went to the shop, and he never worked on cars as long as I've been alive.

He "borrows" my Kobalt set when he needs to do anything, which is how so many pieces are missing, so I'm just going to leave it with him as soon as I get my 1/2" set (really just the ratchet and one set of sockets; the Kobalt set only had eight 1/2" sockets to begin with). Backwards inheritance

I'm hoping to inherit his guitars; I'd better, my brother doesn't play

 

[Codejack]

Here are the latest additions:

Gearwrench feeler gauges, $7 at Ace:

As nice as those long handle wrenches are, I don't want to haul them around all the time:

The 1/2" drawer is about as complete as it needs to be; I'm just going to fill out the SAE and deeps with singles as I need them, leaving me one empty drawer for a 1/4" set:

Here are a couple of 1/2" Pittsburgh Pro impact sockets next to my 3/8" Gearwrench impacts:

Not too shabby; the 10mm is a little thicker, but the 19mm is almost exactly the same.

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Next on the list:

 

[victor252]

The long wrenches look nice. Let us know how they work out. You should post some pics of the jobs you're doing with these tools.

 

[Codejack]

The long wrenches look nice. Let us know how they work out. You should post some pics of the jobs you're doing with these tools.

I'm setting valve time on the Miata tomorrow; I'll take some pics and post them.

 

[Tallpilot]

That extendable ratchet is great. I still use a breaker bar occasionally but it is perfect for suspension parts. How are things coming with the shop?