First time lathe owner

[RoninB4]

Aaron hit it. Also the 3 rectangular things with serrations are chuck jaws. There's a set of 3 for gripping the outside of work and a set for gripping on the inside of work to be chucked up. There is a sequence to changing them (#1-#2-#3) so look for the numbers on the jaws AND on the chuck itself. Easy to get them started wrong and you'll have to "unwind" them and start over. Be very wary of how many "teeth" are engaged in the chuck. All too easy on small lathes to chuck too large a piece in it, having not enough "teeth" engaged and throwing one of the jaws out at speed, it can destroy anything it hits.

The long red shank things are most likely carbide brazed cutting tools, the cheap Chinese ones all look like this. Try NOT to use these until you have to as they're easily chipped/broken and can't be satisfactorily sharpened without a special (expensive) wheel in the bench grinder. You do appear to have one decent boring bar that takes carbide inserts, avoid using this one as well until you really need it.

You also have two "dead" centers which support long work like turning a shaft. You'll want to use a "live" center when that time comes. There are operating handles which screw into locations on the lathe (the half-nuts for feed for example) to engage/disengage movement of the saddle, cross feed, and half-nuts. Find a manual for YOUR machine (likely on-line from Grizzly) so you know which ones go where.

You really need to be familiar with ALL the controls BEFORE you ever turn it on. If any of the feed controls are engaged it can crash the machine and potentially ruin it in short order. When I approach a lathe I'm unfamiliar with I bring the saddle all the way as far back as possible to give myself enough time to stop operations before the saddle crashes into the chuck. The big red emergency stop button (called E-Stop) is the first thing to identify on ANY machine.

While I applaud your effort at making a stand I really think you need to verify how much twist is in the lathe bed in the "free" state. Bolting it down can/will mirror how flat the mounting surface is. If you don't have a reference starting profile you won't know if twist is in the stand top or your lathe. Read up on how to check the twist and chuck alignment to the bed. These checks can be done with the lathe just sitting on a any flat surface, even the floor.

You're also going to want/need a drill chuck to go in the tail stock and a small bench grinder. I know you're wanting to fire the lathe up but I'd advise taking the extra steps I've suggested for reasons that will be clear to you later. If you're just wanting to polish up a few pins (nothing longer than 6" at this point) then that's fine too. You're not quite ready to make chips yet unless your FIL is there and says so. Not trying to be a jerk, just don't want you to get hurt or ruin your first machine. Both will come later but sooner than you think....

 

[ItsNemo]

@RoninB4 - couple points. The dead center is used for turning between centers in the spindle, so still could be useful. The saddle all the way back is no good if you have the power feed in reverse, leave it in the middle.

 

[jones988]

Aaron hit it. Also the 3 rectangular things with serrations are chuck jaws. There's a set of 3 for gripping the outside of work and a set for gripping on the inside of work to be chucked up. There is a sequence to changing them (#1-#2-#3) so look for the numbers on the jaws AND on the chuck itself. Easy to get them started wrong and you'll have to "unwind" them and start over. Be very wary of how many "teeth" are engaged in the chuck. All too easy on small lathes to chuck too large a piece in it, having not enough "teeth" engaged and throwing one of the jaws out at speed, it can destroy anything it hits.

The long red shank things are most likely carbide brazed cutting tools, the cheap Chinese ones all look like this. Try NOT to use these until you have to as they're easily chipped/broken and can't be satisfactorily sharpened without a special (expensive) wheel in the bench grinder. You do appear to have one decent boring bar that takes carbide inserts, avoid using this one as well until you really need it.

You also have two "dead" centers which support long work like turning a shaft. You'll want to use a "live" center when that time comes. There are operating handles which screw into locations on the lathe (the half-nuts for feed for example) to engage/disengage movement of the saddle, cross feed, and half-nuts. Find a manual for YOUR machine (likely on-line from Grizzly) so you know which ones go where.

You really need to be familiar with ALL the controls BEFORE you ever turn it on. If any of the feed controls are engaged it can crash the machine and potentially ruin it in short order. When I approach a lathe I'm unfamiliar with I bring the saddle all the way as far back as possible to give myself enough time to stop operations before the saddle crashes into the chuck. The big red emergency stop button (called E-Stop) is the first thing to identify on ANY machine.

While I applaud your effort at making a stand I really think you need to verify how much twist is in the lathe bed in the "free" state. Bolting it down can/will mirror how flat the mounting surface is. If you don't have a reference starting profile you won't know if twist is in the stand top or your lathe. Read up on how to check the twist and chuck alignment to the bed. These checks can be done with the lathe just sitting on a any flat surface, even the floor.

You're also going to want/need a drill chuck to go in the tail stock and a small bench grinder. I know you're wanting to fire the lathe up but I'd advise taking the extra steps I've suggested for reasons that will be clear to you later. If you're just wanting to polish up a few pins (nothing longer than 6" at this point) then that's fine too. You're not quite ready to make chips yet unless your FIL is there and says so. Not trying to be a jerk, just don't want you to get hurt or ruin your first machine. Both will come later but sooner than you think....

I definitely appreciate all the tips and suggestions! My father in law came over this morning and pretty much told me word for word what your first three paragraphs say. I will look into the twist of the bed also. And I do have the original manual for my machine thankfully as well! I also have no problem taking my time before I first fire it up to make sure I know what I am doing and nothing gets ruined. I do have a bench grinder too so that's one less thing I'll need.

 

[Aaron_W]

Not sure on the 10x22, but I have a 9x20 and "levelling" is pretty simple. It has a bolt at each end, you tighten down the bolt at the head stock firmly, and leave the bolt at the tail stock relatively loose (secure but not tightly snugged down). They have a relatively heavy casting and rely on the bed being straight so tightly securing both ends is likely to introduce twist from the base. Similar in concept to older English lathes or jewelers / watchmakers lathes with a single foot near the head stock vs the US style with a foot on each end and 4 hold down points.

If yours does have just 2 bolts then if you do find there is twist in the bed you will have to use shims to adjust but let it settle for a couple days after mounting it to the bench. The bed can move, so may have picked up some stresses from the trip, being lifted, maybe sitting unevenly on the floor etc. Like a new goldfish you have to give it a little time to settle into its new surroundings before making any adjustments.

 

[jones988]

Well I've gotten a little farther on building my stand for my lathe. Was able to reuse most of the wood from my old reloading bench I no longer needed thankfully with wood prices now! I do have a few questions though. When I finally "mount" my lathe on top once it's finished, should I measure and make sure the bolts holding the lathe down go through 2x4 cross bracing along the top? My plans for the top of my bench will be a sheet of 3/4" plywood and a piece of 3/16" steel plate on top of that, will just running the bolts through the plywood and steel plate be strong enough? I still need to put a few more cross braces in regardless, just trying to plan ahead before I finish the framing. I do have machine leveling feet on the way too instead of the bolts under the 4x4s now.

In regards to the plywood top and steel plate. How should I secure the steel plate to the piece of plywood? I don't want to drill any holes if I don't have too. Is there some type of glue or anything that will work? This bench will be solely for my lathe, so I shouldn't be doing anything to serious on top of it.

Also, does anyone have any recommendations on painting this thing? Pretty much everything in my garage is unpainted wood, would like to finally start adding some color and make it more my own from when my parents owned it.

 

[Aaron_W]

I actually have a small tool room lathe from the 1930s that I'm starting to build a bench for. 4x4s, and 2x6 for the base and decided to use two sheets of 3/4" MDF for the top. I actually dislike MDF and thought about plywood but as wood goes MDF it is about as stable as it gets since it is like 50% glue with no grain. Plywood is not a bad choice though especially if you already have it, MDF is cheaper which was another point in its favor.

I have a steel pan and backsplash I made from tube steel and 16 gauge sheet. A thicker plate won't hurt and if I happen on something suitable in the 1/16-1/4" range at my local metal supply cut offs racks I may add that between the MDF and pan/backsplash.

As far as securing the lathe to the top my plan is to drill the holes a bit larger (1/8" maybe) than the bolts so they are not in tight direct side to side contact with the MDF and will either use wide fender washers or make a small plate for the underside to secure the bolts through the top. That way any lateral movement of the bench will be less likely to transfer to the lathe mounts as stress.

I'm still in the early stages of building so no photos of the bench I can share.

As far as shop colors I have a couple of blue US General tool chests in the shop so when I build things for the shop I tend to go with a similar blue or grey (grey goes with everything). I prefer stain for wood and have been staining some of the wood a medium charcoal grey which I think goes well with the blue. Of course you now have a big green thing in your shop, most of my machines are older so black, grey or cast iron.

 

[jones988]

I actually have a small tool room lathe from the 1930s that I'm starting to build a bench for. 4x4s, and 2x6 for the base and decided to use two sheets of 3/4" MDF for the top. I actually dislike MDF and thought about plywood but as wood goes MDF it is about as stable as it gets since it is like 50% glue with no grain. Plywood is not a bad choice though especially if you already have it, MDF is cheaper which was another point in its favor.

I have a steel pan and backsplash I made from tube steel and 16 gauge sheet. A thicker plate won't hurt and if I happen on something suitable in the 1/16-1/4" range at my local metal supply cut offs racks I may add that between the MDF and pan/backsplash.

As far as securing the lathe to the top my plan is to drill the holes a bit larger (1/8" maybe) than the bolts so they are not in tight direct side to side contact with the MDF and will either use wide fender washers or make a small plate for the underside to secure the bolts through the top. That way any lateral movement of the bench will be less likely to transfer to the lathe mounts as stress.

I'm still in the early stages of building so no photos of the bench I can share.

As far as shop colors I have a couple of blue US General tool chests in the shop so when I build things for the shop I tend to go with a similar blue or grey (grey goes with everything). I prefer stain for wood and have been staining some of the wood a medium charcoal grey which I think goes well with the blue. Of course you now have a big green thing in your shop, most of my machines are older so black, grey or cast iron.

I got a 64"x30" sheet of 3/16" steel plate with a 1" bend on one side for $160 from a local steel shop. This was my first time buying a steel plate like that, but I didn't think that was too bad of a price. I guess, I am a little confused on how exactly "sturdy" the lathe is supposed to be in reference to the table. From what I understand, you don't want the stand the be able to twist and move, but you also aren't supposed to torque the lathe down banjo tight to the stand correct? The lathe is supposed to just be snug?

 

[ItsNemo]

I got a 64"x30" sheet of 3/16" steel plate with a 1" bend on one side for $160 from a local steel shop. This was my first time buying a steel plate like that, but I didn't think that was too bad of a price. I guess, I am a little confused on how exactly "sturdy" the lathe is supposed to be in reference to the table. From what I understand, you don't want the stand the be able to twist and move, but you also aren't supposed to torque the lathe down banjo tight to the stand correct? The lathe is supposed to just be snug?

Not stupid tight to break the casting, but if the stand is stout enough you can bolt it down solid once you've got the correct shimming to take all the twist out.

 

[RoninB4]

@RoninB4 - couple points. The dead center is used for turning between centers in the spindle, so still could be useful. The saddle all the way back is no good if you have the power feed in reverse, leave it in the middle.

-Dead centers haven't been used in a lathe tail stock in decades for several good reasons. It should be checked, but I doubt the headstock accepts a dead center for turning between centers. Easier/faster to chuck up a small piece of round stock and accurately turn one. A decent live center can be had for $30 and avoids the problems that come with using a dead center in the tail stock. No one said the dead center wasn't useful, it's just a last resort type of useful if it doesn't fit the face-plate or headstock spindle.

Running the tool holder/saddle/cross slide into the chuck might only take 3-5 seconds in a lathe this size. Running into the tailstock won't be as damaging/dangerous as running into the chuck. Operating any machine has risk, pick the level you're comfortable with.

 

[ItsNemo]

-Dead centers haven't been used in a lathe tail stock in decades for several good reasons. It should be checked, but I doubt the headstock accepts a dead center for turning between centers. Easier/faster to chuck up a small piece of round stock and accurately turn one. A decent live center can be had for $30 and avoids the problems that come with using a dead center in the tail stock. No one said the dead center wasn't useful, it's just a last resort type of useful if it doesn't fit the face-plate or headstock spindle.

Running the tool holder/saddle/cross slide into the chuck might only take 3-5 seconds in a lathe this size. Running into the tailstock won't be as damaging/dangerous as running into the chuck. Operating any machine has risk, pick the level you're comfortable with.

Just explaining what the dead centers would be for, in the headstock. Turning between centers is sometimes the only operation when you need a full length taper with features on both ends for instance.

Yup, just saying, give yourself some room in both directions...you can still crash at the tailstock end and do some pretty serious damage.

 

[Monza Harry]

-Dead centers haven't been used in a lathe tail stock in decades for several good reasons. It should be checked, but I doubt the headstock accepts a dead center for turning between centers. Easier/faster to chuck up a small piece of round stock and accurately turn one. A decent live center can be had for $30 and avoids the problems that come with using a dead center in the tail stock. No one said the dead center wasn't useful, it's just a last resort type of useful if it doesn't fit the face-plate or headstock spindle.

Running the tool holder/saddle/cross slide into the chuck might only take 3-5 seconds in a lathe this size. Running into the tailstock won't be as damaging/dangerous as running into the chuck. Operating any machine has risk, pick the level you're comfortable with.

Most lathes I have dealt with have a "Morse Taper" 1 to 2 sizes larger than the tail stock, I would guess that the tail stock is a #3 so the head would more than likely be a #4 but could be a #5 MT. A useful little early job would be to turn a headstock plug with a tapped hole on center, for use as a stop, with the chuck. An excellent piece for repeat set-ups and multi part runs, indicate the compound rest [or taper attachment if you are so lucky] parallel to the headstock taper and turn the plug to fit the taper. Install with the chuck removed and drill and tap for a screw [1/4-20 to 3/8-16 for that size lathe. This will entail removing and reinstalling the chuck a couple of times for access and then the use of. You will also need a rod that is long enough to knock it out when not needed/in the way. With luck it will pull through the chuck with-out removal. As for not needing/using the dead centers they become useful for maximizing your length [the machine size is swing over bed by the between centers length, yours isn't large for the length, fortunately most commonly, even a 10' between centers, is used ~95% in the first 6"] Also dead centers can be trimmed for small dia. work that would hit your live center, again not common but does happen. Play safe and have fun we are here to share with and help each other. Harry

 

[dutchgray]

Bigger lathes with larger spindle bores tended to be supplied with a reducing bush to get from the internal spindle taper to a morse taper for a center, unfortunately its one of the most commonly lost items of lathe tooling.
My DSG is missing its reducing bush, but I have a taper attachment so it wouldn't be that hard to make one if needed.
My other lathe has a mt4 spindle, which limits the spindle bore to small size of a mt4.

 

[Beelzeboss]

The best tip I can give for lathes:

DON'T LEAVE THE CHUCK KEY IN!

 

[kyrbz]

Here's a couple pics of the stand I made for mine. Steel frame made from 1.5" x 12ga. sq steel tube, thrift store butcher block top, melamine drawer box. Made mostly of stuff left over from other projects. Some day I would love to upgrade to a larger better quality lathe but the old G0602 has served me well on many a project.

 

[jones988]

Here's a couple pics of the stand I made for mine. Steel frame made from 1.5" x 12ga. sq steel tube, thrift store butcher block top, melamine drawer box. Made mostly of stuff left over from other projects. Some day I would love to upgrade to a larger better quality lathe but the old G0602 has served me well on many a project.

That is very nice! And it is similar design to what I came up with. I still need to add the 3/16" steel plate on top, I need another person to help me with that, and I am normally a one man show in my garage. But I wanted to get the lathe on top to see what it would look like. I am thinking about adding some shelves on the right side at a later date.

 

[cannuck]

Another strong mention of taking the safety stuff very seriously. DO NOT wear gloves when working with your lathe (running it, not carrying it).

Your first work should be simple things in the 3 jaw chuck to start getting a feel for things, then move on to turning longer stuff that needs tailstock, steady or follow. The comments about dead centers are relavent since it doesn't look as if this can have a taper attachement, so the tailstock is dovetailed to allow for offset to make low angle tapers. If you do that, you can not chuck up the headstock end, but need to go between dead centers, driving the shaft/part with a lathe dog. By the time you get far enough to need to worry about that, you will have a lot better understanding of what is going on. The big thing is to use it and learn how tools and materials interact and have some fun.

I should also mention: having a tool and die maker as a mentor is worth much more than the lathe itself.

 

[jones988]

Another strong mention of taking the safety stuff very seriously. DO NOT wear gloves when working with your lathe (running it, not carrying it).

Your first work should be simple things in the 3 jaw chuck to start getting a feel for things, then move on to turning longer stuff that needs tailstock, steady or follow. The comments about dead centers are relavent since it doesn't look as if this can have a taper attachement, so the tailstock is dovetailed to allow for offset to make low angle tapers. If you do that, you can not chuck up the headstock end, but need to go between dead centers, driving the shaft/part with a lathe dog. By the time you get far enough to need to worry about that, you will have a lot better understanding of what is going on. The big thing is to use it and learn how tools and materials interact and have some fun.

I should also mention: having a tool and die maker as a mentor is worth much more than the lathe itself.

I definitely plan to take things slow once I am up and running. I'm excited to see what my father in law can show me, just listening to the stuff he used to make and be able to do is extremely fascinating to me.