First time using a plastic welder...

[JMLangford]

Hey Guys, I'd like to share with you the process I took to repair the broken plastic on my 2003 (20 yr old) John Deere LT150 lawn mower....

Over the years that we've had this mower, my wife has crashed into various thing in our yard when she mowed (I rarely hit anything ) till the plastic nose valance/guard has shattered in several pieces.

 

[JMLangford]

So, while I was doing some maintance and a tune-up, I decided to finally tackle fixing the plastic....I started with purchasing a 50 watt plastic welder w/100 assorted staples in 4 different shapes.



I also ordered 1400 additional staples....


First piece....this plastic welder is super easy to use!



On this next piece, I super glued it on before welding since this spot is one of the mounting points

 

[JMLangford]

In no time at all I had it all put back in one piece....






....Except maybe for one little missing piece



The staples hold the plastic together pretty snugly but with the vibration and flexing this piece will endure, I plan to reinforce it with fiberglass cloth and resin.



First up is a little glazing putty in the cracks on the outside face.

 

[JMLangford]

Time to address the hole left from the missing piece


I took 4 of the straight wavy staples and melted them across the hole in a crosshatch grid, so I can layer fiberglass across the hole.



Then I started sanding the stitched areas to give the resin and fiberglass cloth something to grab hold of. (if you zoom in you'll notice I cut in some crosshatching into the sanded areas too.




And here we go.....I pre-cut most of the fiberglass patches and laid them out so I'd be ready to knock this all out in one session Well.....I learned right quick that you don't mix up a lot of resin thinking you've got plenty of time to lay all your cloth I got only the two strips you see in this pic before I had a cup of rock hard resin!!!


So.....afterwards I mixed up small batches and worked small areas till I got the whole back side covered


Now, I started to fill in the missing piece with small bits of fiberglass

 

[vavet]

Nice work! Thanks for sharing.

 

[JMLangford]

After it dried for a day, I drilled tiny holes in it....



....so the glazing putty would have a bit more to hold on to.


All sanded out nice and smooth.




Ready for paint....I bought a can of JD Green Farm & Implement paint which I have to admit matches pretty darn good.


But first some primer. (if you zoom in on the "D" in Deere you see I forgot to fill the cracks with glazing putty) Oh well, she'll mow

 

[JMLangford]

Then three coats of JD Green!



After letting the paint dry for three days, I installed it back on the mower and I'm extremely happy with the way the paint matches the rest of the hood....


Heres a pic with better light....


And here it is out in the sunshine!



Today I got in the early Birthday present for my wife.......




This is with the hood open (lots of clearance)

 

[JMLangford]

Now you may have noticed the top cap of the hood is missing.....thats because I've still got some repairs to do.

This piece came off the front edge of the top (my wife snapped it off trying to open the hood - seriously )
The other crack started about four years ago and the hole you see drilled in it was suppose to keep it from spreading but didn't work.




All stitched up....


On to this piece


Clamped in place and ready


Lookin' good....



Outside view...a few chipped places but I can live with it.
(I wonder if they make JD green glazing putty??)

 

[JMLangford]

All stitched and sanded and ready for fiberglass


Pre-cut the repair patches....


After a day or two of dry time I'll get this top re-installed and call this job....D U N


Thanks for watchin'

 

[msharley]

Great job!

 

[Jswain]

Outstanding job on the plastic repair! Looks amazing

 

[kerrynzl]

Thanks for watchin' [/I]

Outstanding work !

One tip for when you used 4 x staples to fill that hole.
Try using a piece wire mesh [fly screen] . I do this with a hot air gun and roller.

Keep practicing......but you are pretty good at it now

 

[landlord30]

Very nice!! Could have taken more pictures so we can really see what you did. JK

 

[Old Man Roger]

Pretty awesome. I’ve never had the patience for body work, but after these kind f results, I can see the attraction.

 

[Michael_in_DE]

love the step by step. Thanks for sharing!

 

[larry4406]

This was excellent! Thanks for the detailed tutorial! I might have to buy one of these. This one looks like yours but says its 80W not 50W like yours. Pretty cheap!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHW38TN6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

In Post 4, 4th picture, you show 2 fixtures for holding narrow sand paper. Those look really nice for getting into narrow tight spots. Where did you get those?

Smart on adding the bumper!

 

[mike93lx]

Love it. Great job and thanks for sharing the detail

 

[JMLangford]

This was excellent! Thanks for the detailed tutorial! I might have to buy one of these. This one looks like yours but says its 80W not 50W like yours. Pretty cheap!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHW38TN6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

In Post 4, 4th picture, you show 2 fixtures for holding narrow sand paper. Those look really nice for getting into narrow tight spots. Where did you get those?

Smart on adding the bumper!

Thanks Larry
Yeah, the welder you posted looks like a more stylized version of mine but as far as wattage goes 50W was plenty good enough to get the job done.
I got mine on Amazon also for the same price....good deal for the money.

The sanding sticks are sold several places including Amazon - I got mine at Hobby Lobby for $30 but Amazon has them for $26.....They are called "Sanding Detailer Tools"
I love 'em

Sanding Detailer Tools | Hobby Lobby | 1373273

Sand away the rough spots to reveal a picture-perfect craft! Sanding Detailer Tools features a collection of assorted grit sandpaper tools with replacement belts. Use the tapered ends for intricate areas, and get crafty!

www.hobbylobby.com

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039ZB24G/?tag=atomicindus08-20

.

 

[GreenIron]

Great job. Thanks for posting.

Now, I have some plastic repair work to do.

 

[Citation]

That looks really nice. I did my first real plastic weld job earlier this summer. It was a plastic fender liner that got torn up. I would have just bought a used one (only $90) but I needed things fixed for a weekend trip and didn't have time to wait. I used the plastic rods you mix in while heating the area with my hot air soldering tool. It wasn't a pretty fix as the green rod contrasts with the black plastic but it has held up!.

 

[sqznby]

Nice work, it came out looking brandy new.

I like that detail belt kit. Do you happen to know the length of belts they use? I can't seem to find the info on either site.

 

[Meursault74]

Thanks for posting the process. Nicely done. I can see how that technique would be useful.

I know this isn't an original part, (as the original JD looks to be about $100)

Did you consider using an aftermarket one like this for about $19?

Pardon Our Interruption...

I've done: why buy a new one for X when I can get some tools and supplies and fix it for 3X and then have the tools for later.

 

[Old tool guy]

Nice job, but i don’t understand how it works. I thought staples were like for holding sheets of paper together, where you poke them through and bend the ends over. Apparently not for plastic.

 

[larry4406]

Nice job, but i don’t understand how it works. I thought staples were like for holding sheets of paper together, where you poke them through and bend the ends over. Apparently not for plastic.

My understanding is the “staples” are a serpentine stitch across the crack vs thru. Then after stitching the crack is fused closed. Back side repair.

 

[Sumboodie]

Cool, but that's not a plastic welder.

Plastic welder has a soldering iron type machine and you feed plastic into it.

 

[JMLangford]

Nice work, it came out looking brandy new.

I like that detail belt kit. Do you happen to know the length of belts they use? I can't seem to find the info on either site.

Thanks
The sanding belts measure 1/4" wide by just a tad (1/2-3/4) over 12"

 

[JMLangford]

Cool, but that's not a plastic welder.

Plastic welder has a soldering iron type machine and you feed plastic into it.

Technicality

 

[kerrynzl]

Nice job, but i don’t understand how it works. I thought staples were like for holding sheets of paper together, where you poke them through and bend the ends over. Apparently not for plastic.

You can buy a "Hot staple gun" and it melts staples into plastic to hold the crack together

 

[JMLangford]

Thanks for posting the process. Nicely done. I can see how that technique would be useful.

I know this isn't an original part, (as the original JD looks to be about $100)

Did you consider using an aftermarket one like this for about $19?

Pardon Our Interruption...

I've done: why buy a new one for X when I can get some tools and supplies and fix it for 3X and then have the tools for later.

Thanks
Yep - I considered aftermarket but I grew up in the time before the throw-away world. (I'm 70 yrs old)
Back then folks would try to repair items before opting to just buy a replacement.

Now I don't try to repair EVERYTHING, but I knew I could reasonably fix this piece...

Yes the OEM bumper goes for $103.04 and a replacement upper OEM hood (with decals) goes for $177.29 (aftermarket ones are $129.97 with NO decals)

These are Amazon prices, if you went to a John Deere dealership they would surely be more expensive

Also.....I'm retired and enjoyed some time to play in my shop!!
.

 

[Sumboodie]

Technicality

Not really. It's a plastic hot stapler.

I have a cheap one, as well as a plastic welder. Have both been handy.

Have even used zip ties and a butane torch in a pinch.

 

[mike93lx]

Cool, but that's not a plastic welder.

Plastic welder has a soldering iron type machine and you feed plastic into it.

Interesting distinction. So is tig without using filler not welding? Feels like that, plus this process can both be called welding even if there is another way to do it

 

[kerrynzl]

Thanks
Yep - I considered aftermarket but I grew up in the time before the throw-away world. (I'm 70 yrs old)
Back then folks would try to repair items before opting to just buy a replacement.

Now I don't try to repair EVERYTHING, but I knew I could reasonably fix this piece...

Yes the OEM bumper goes for $103.04 and a replacement upper OEM hood (with decals) goes for $177.29 (aftermarket ones are $129.97 with NO decals)

These are Amazon prices, if you went to a John Deere dealership they would surely be more expensive

Also.....I'm retired and enjoyed some time to play in my shop!!
.

I get where you are coming from.
I live in the land of UV [12 minute sunburn] and it wrecks havoc on plastic parts.

I practice plastic welding on $1-00 buckets that my wife uses for plants [This is to "hone my welding skills"]
She is always wanting holes drilled in them so I pierce them with a soldering iron.


You can weld plastics with a soldering iron as well.

I am pretty good at welding PVC fabrics together with a hot air gun and roller and also HF welding fabrics
[I highly recommend a Hot Air gun for plastic welding, it is like TIG welding ]

Interesting distinction. So is tig without using filler not welding? Feels like that, plus this process can both be called welding even if there is another way to do it

Hahaha! good point
You can plastic weld with a cigarette lighter if you really want to [and you're not fussy]

I have had good success with a soldering iron and also a Hot knife [laid flat on it's side to spread]


It is only a "means to an end" and a skill

 

[JMLangford]

All finished and ready for 20 more years....



.

 

[Jason280]

You have motivated me, sir. I have a sit on top kayak that needs to be "welded" on the bottom, but I can only get to one side of the kayak. I have one of those plastic welder kits, but have yet to actually try it.

 

[JMLangford]

You have motivated me, sir. I have a sit on top kayak that needs to be "welded" on the bottom, but I can only get to one side of the kayak. I have one of those plastic welder kits, but have yet to actually try it.

Go for it Jason.....It's super easy to use and I actually had fun with it

 

[CJM8515]

i have the astro one of those, well worth the coin. also have the harbor freight soldering iron type welder that has worked well for years too.

 

[scooby074]

nice job

 

[Spencer Was Here]

I enjoyed your post OP. Thanks for taking the time to document and share your project.

 

[P0234]

Results look great! I tried a plastic welding kit about a decade or more ago and didn't get the results I wanted on sportbike plastics. ABS pipe cement on the other hand worked really well. It's basically ABS and acetone IIRC and fuses with the plastic. If the JD plastic is ABS, you should use that for filler and maybe as a backer for the repairs on any new breaks.

 

[Citation]

Results look great! I tried a plastic welding kit about a decade or more ago and didn't get the results I wanted on sportbike plastics. ABS pipe cement on the other hand worked really well. It's basically ABS and acetone IIRC and fuses with the plastic. If the JD plastic is ABS, you should use that for filler and maybe as a backer for the repairs on any new breaks.

I think those plastic parts are Xenoy, a tough resin from what used to be GE plastics. I think it was a PC blend but not ABS.