Fix drywall or cover it with paneling

[minytrker]

Had a painter come look at my garage and they said they could fix the drywall and re-paint it but it wont last due to the age of sheet rock and the temperture swigs in the garage. Has anyone covered their walls in paneling like this? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Style-Selections-48-in-x-96-in-White-Wainscot-Wall-Panel/5014192279 ? How did it turn out? That still leaves finding something to put on the ceiling.

 

[75gmck25]

Have you been able to look at the paneling to verify how much of it is really hardwood?

Sometimes they use pressed wood for thickness and then add the thin wood finish on top. The problem is that the edges are then susceptible to absorbing moisture, and moisture is going to always be there in a garage.

 

[gahrajmahal]

Your painter is telling you a fairy tale unless you have some pretty severe water damage or crumbling of your drywall. You can always repair drywall even if it has big bumps, like when my mom pulled into the garage too far and poked the front bumper in the drywall. Just cut out the dented part and replace with new. The thing about drywall in a garage is it is usually FIRE RATED, whereas the MDF you found wouldn't be. The MDF you referenced will go on decently if your stud walls are good. I would probably go for putting another layer of drywall. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gold-Bond-5-8-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Fire-Shield-Drywall-Panel/5001613083 $13.38 a sheet instead of $35.

I have used board and baton wood panels in my laundry room. These work well if you have lots of pipes or other stuff you need to cut around. It's easier on individual boards compared to cutting multiple holes in one sheet and getting them all to come out right.

 

[The Cobbler]

Your painter is telling you a fairy tale unless you have some pretty severe water damage or crumbling of your drywall.

This, find a new person to fix the drywall

 

[Rc_Guy]

Your painter is telling you a fairy tale unless you have some pretty severe water damage or crumbling of your drywall. You can always repair drywall even if it has big bumps, like when my mom pulled into the garage too far and poked the front bumper in the drywall. Just cut out the dented part and replace with new. The thing about drywall in a garage is it is usually FIRE RATED, whereas the MDF you found wouldn't be. The MDF you referenced will go on decently if your stud walls are good. I would probably go for putting another layer of drywall. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gold-Bond-5-8-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Fire-Shield-Drywall-Panel/5001613083 $13.38 a sheet instead of $35.

I have used board and baton wood panels in my laundry room. These work well if you have lots of pipes or other stuff you need to cut around. It's easier on individual boards compared to cutting multiple holes in one sheet and getting them all to come out right.

Why not 1/4” over the existing drywall?

 

[The Cobbler]

I would like to see some pictures of said drywall

 

[rancherbill]

Is this an attached or de-tached garage. What kind of damage? What is causing the damage?

 

[Benw455]

Fix and paint. I have drywall in my attached house going on 40 years old. it gets painted about every 10 years.

 

[Rc_Guy]

Why not 1/4” over the existing drywall?

1/4” is what they did on a couple jobs that I did fire sprinklers on, instead of ripping out all the sheet rock and getting a dumpster for it all they just put 1/4” on, you still had the fire rating with the sheet rock under it, obviously patched holes. You have to keep the fire rating and then tape the 1/4” drywall

 

[Boogerman]

Pure ******** unless the sheetrock has been waterlogged for long periods of time. Just cut out holes and such, patch, and then parse over the wall if needed, retexture and paint. Depending on final product you want, just patching and painting may be enough. Either learn to do it yourself, or get a better drywall guy.

 

[NUTTSGT]

There's also the thought of added ribbed white metal over the current drywall. One and done, no filling, sanding, priming or painting.

 

[rsanter]

Unless the drywall is disentegrating from water damage I would think it's fixable.

Unless you just like the look of that paneling,this is what I would look at first;

Quote for plaster a this layer of what you have.

Rip it all out and install new drywall

Skin 1/4" drywall of what you have.

Those plastic textured panels they put over drywall like in wet or food service areas

1/4" OSB

 

[karoc]

I will be using T1-11 siding 1/2 thick and primer on rough side. But 38.00 sheet, not giving it away. Just think, you never have to go through this again unless someones mom is driving in garage

 

[CraigStu]

I think the fire rating may override this but, as a reference point, I used similar for a wall in my basement.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Style-Selections-4-Ft-X-8-Ft-White-Oak/5015246125

The wall was constructed w/ standard 2x4 and 5/8 subflooring. I hate drywall taping and mudding so got the above. I Used quick attach construction adhesive and didn't bother w/ nails or screws. It was so quick and easy compared to drywall, mud, tape, mud, sand, and finally paint.

 

[wantedabiggergarage]

Those plastic textured panels they put over drywall like in wet or food service areas

F or V rp. Fiberglass reinforced panel, or Vinyl reinforced panel.

 

[LopezBart]

That 1/4" drywall is pretty handy... when we remodeled our first house in San Jose, the contractor used this to cover the damaged lathe and plaster in the living room. They even managed to cover the coved ceilings.... all of it was covered with sanded drywall compound and matched the remaining plaster in the dining room very nicely.

 

[Rc_Guy]

That 1/4" drywall is pretty handy... when we remodeled our first house in San Jose, the contractor used this to cover the damaged lathe and plaster in the living room. They even managed to cover the coved ceilings.... all of it was covered with sanded drywall compound and matched the remaining plaster in the dining room very nicely.

That is why I suggested it. I have seen it used and it is a whole lot cleaner and quicker than pulling the old drywall off and replacing it. Just make sure and get screws that are long enough. Obviously a screw might hit the screw’s in the original drywall but you just go an inch or two up or down and re-screw it

 

[DGersic]

F or V rp. Fiberglass reinforced panel, or Vinyl reinforced panel.

I’m doing some FRP here in a different application. Interesting stuff to work with. I’m gluing it in place, takes a lot of adhesive to cover a garage worth of wall space.

 

[minytrker]

The drywall is outer layer and the tape on all the seams is coming off (house built in 86). I am also removing cabinets so there will be a lot of holes to fill. The ceiling is the worst and also needs to be scraped since its popcorn from the 80's. I tried sticking a door protector on the wall and it just pealed right off with the outer layer of sheetrock. Its a detached garage. The painter said it would look nice when done just wouldnt last. I guess I really should have got them to clarify what lasting was.

 

[mike93lx]

Your painter is telling you a fairy tale unless you have some pretty severe water damage or crumbling of your drywall. You can always repair drywall even if it has big bumps, like when my mom pulled into the garage too far and poked the front bumper in the drywall. Just cut out the dented part and replace with new. The thing about drywall in a garage is it is usually FIRE RATED, whereas the MDF you found wouldn't be. The MDF you referenced will go on decently if your stud walls are good. I would probably go for putting another layer of drywall. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gold-Bond-5-8-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Fire-Shield-Drywall-Panel/5001613083 $13.38 a sheet instead of $35.

I have used board and baton wood panels in my laundry room. These work well if you have lots of pipes or other stuff you need to cut around. It's easier on individual boards compared to cutting multiple holes in one sheet and getting them all to come out right.

Fyi, that's shiplap, not board and batten. Board and batten are vertical panels with thin strips to cover the seams

 

[PCustoms]

Fyi, that's shiplap, not board and batten. Board and batten are vertical panels with thin strips to cover the seams

 

[rancherbill]

The drywall is outer layer and the tape on all the seams is coming off (house built in 86). I am also removing cabinets so there will be a lot of holes to fill. The ceiling is the worst and also needs to be scraped since its popcorn from the 80's. I tried sticking a door protector on the wall and it just pealed right off with the outer layer of sheetrock. Its a detached garage. The painter said it would look nice when done just wouldnt last. I guess I really should have got them to clarify what lasting was.

Still no pics.

It sounds like the wall A) never had moisture control, B) Never was primed or sealed. It sounds like it is what we call fire taped - just joint taped.

Popcorn is easy to get off. Watch youtube. Put plastic sheets on the wall, Put plastics sheets on the floor grab your water source and trowel and start. I have helped my son do his house and we can do the actual popcorn removal at about a 1000 feet in 3-4 hours. Prep time for use was very low because the house was vacant.

 

[PoorUB]

My garage was built in 1987. One year I repaired the south wall. The lower few inches was rotten from getting wet. My truck parks along that wall and snow melts and gets it wet. I replaced the lower part of the wall with durarock and RFP over that. It should outlive me. A couple summers ago I tackled the rest of the garage. Patched up a few dents and replaced another rotten spot at the floor on another wall.
Say what you want, but thirty plus years and a a couple sort of major repairs at different spots. Seems like good service to me.
As for the OP, I find it hard to believe the some patches at the floor for some rotten spots, and repairing a few dents higher up wouldn't take care if his issues.

 

[geneg]

Unless the drywall is disentegrating from water damage I would think it's fixable.

Unless you just like the look of that paneling,this is what I would look at first;

Quote for plaster a this layer of what you have.

Rip it all out and install new drywall

Skin 1/4" drywall of what you have.

Those plastic textured panels they put over drywall like in wet or food service areas

1/4" OSB

FRP- fiberglass reinforced panels. Think of WalMart restrooms. Complete line of trims & moldings available. Use FRP adhesive with trims or plastic drivepins. An almost waterproof surface. Bright & shiny with textured surface.

 

[gahrajmahal]

Fyi, that's shiplap, not board and batten. Board and batten are vertical panels with thin strips to cover the seams

Tamato tomato, The OP’s original suggestion of beaded 4 x 8 would in my opinion work well with a thin strip covering the panel joint making it a “board and batten” type of covering.

They make the beaded panel like the OP linked to but it comes as 4” wide, made of wood, approximately 1/4” thick. I used it at my son’s house on his kitchen ceiling and a downstairs bathroom. I didn’t have access to photos of that so that is why I snapped a photo of our ship lap siding, temporarily forgetting the correct name.

Thanks for keeping me on my toes!

 

[mike93lx]

Tamato tomato, The OP’s original suggestion of beaded 4 x 8 would in my opinion work well with a thin strip covering the panel joint making it a “board and batten” type of covering.

They make the beaded panel like the OP linked to but it comes as 4” wide, made of wood, approximately 1/4” thick. I used it at my son’s house on his kitchen ceiling and a downstairs bathroom. I didn’t have access to photos of that so that is why I snapped a photo of our ship lap siding, temporarily forgetting the correct name.

Thanks for keeping me on my toes!

Not criticizing, just clarifying as it can impact how the OP searches for stuff. If they like the look of yours, it would come up with a search for board and batten

 

[M.Brane]

My place was built in '73. I just pulled some ugly old paneling off the back wall so the electrician wouldn't have to deal with it, and found old water damage/mold stains on the drywall behind it. Gotta love it. It's all gonna get replaced now.

 

[minytrker]

Sorry we had storm storm come through texas so I havent even went into the garage or opened it last couple days to get pics. The drywall itself isnt falling apart, it looks like it has a texture layer thats coming off. It was never painted but may have been premiered, its not bare drywall for sure.

 

[SSDVC]

Not an expert, but I believe the drywall in your garage, if attached, is usually required to be 5/8" in order to establish a 1 hour fire rating between the garage walls/ceiling and the living space. Maybe in 1986 it was different, but that's what it is now. The drywall also acts as sound attenuation between the two. If you cover the existing with 1/4", you increase the fire rating AND the sound mitigation into the living space. Putting something like T-11 or other paneling on the walls doesn't really do any of that. Ripping out the existing drywall (not necessary) and using those materials on the walls will look great, but takes away the fire rating AND the sound mitigation into the living space.

All that said, I have just started redoing my garage. For all the walls/ceiling, I am either going to add 1/4" to two of the walls and ceiling that abut the living spaces, putting "Green Glue" between the existing drywall and the new 1/4" (for sound proofing, so I can blast the music in the garage without my wife complaining) and then paint over everything...............OR, just keep the existing drywalled walls and put something like a Slat Wall system up for shelving and storage. I may try to use the Green Glue with the Slate Wall material, to see if it gives me any additional sound mitigation.

Again, just my thoughts.

 

[gahrajmahal]

Ssdvc, I have never heard of “green glue”. I am curious about it. Do you have a link?

Speaking of popcorn ceilings coming loose. The Mrs and I happen to be at my mother in laws house and this is in her garage. All the homes have this problem from the original builder’s. I’m dreading having to do this job.

 

[SSDVC]

Here ya go ! https://www.greengluecompany.com/

In my former life, we used this (along with other things) to mitigate sound. This stuff is awesome and it works when properly applied.

 

[minytrker]

Ssdvc, I have never heard of “green glue”. I am curious about it. Do you have a link?

Speaking of popcorn ceilings coming loose. The Mrs and I happen to be at my mother in laws house and this is in her garage. All the homes have this problem from the original builder’s. I’m dreading having to do this job.

I was going to post a picture but yours is exactly what I have going on. If you look above the garage door in the picture thats what spots on my wall are doing.

 

[gahrajmahal]

I was going to post a picture but yours is exactly what I have going on. If you look above the garage door in the picture thats what spots on my wall are doing.

Well, you are going to have to saturate it with warm water and scrape it off. After it dries then prime and paint

 

[mike93lx]

Ssdvc, I have never heard of “green glue”. I am curious about it. Do you have a link?

Speaking of popcorn ceilings coming loose. The Mrs and I happen to be at my mother in laws house and this is in her garage. All the homes have this problem from the original builder’s. I’m dreading having to do this job.

If it has asbestos in it, just slap another layer of board over it, but that's not popcorn, so I bet it doesnt

 

[rancherbill]

I was going to post a picture but yours is exactly what I have going on. If you look above the garage door in the picture thats what spots on my wall are doing.

Well, you have a huge moisture problem in your garage.

I will not give any advice as I come from and area that has the humidity you have. You'll have to get advice from southerners on moisture control.

If you put that stuff that was suggested by the painter, you'll have a nice looking mouldy mess.

 

[PoorUB]

Speaking of popcorn ceilings coming loose. The Mrs and I happen to be at my mother in laws house and this is in her garage. All the homes have this problem from the original builder’s. I’m dreading having to do this job.

{ump up weed sprayer with warm water and a couple drops of Dawn dish detergent. Wet it down good, let it sit a few minutes and scrap it off with a 4 or 6 inch putty knife. You might have to wet it down a couple times.

You may be surprised how fast it will peel off!

Or this,
https://www.amazon.com/POP-EEZE-Popeeze-popcorn-attachment/dp/B077Y8TWVB/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[minytrker]

Well, you have a huge moisture problem in your garage.

I will not give any advice as I come from and area that has the humidity you have. You'll have to get advice from southerners on moisture control.

If you put that stuff that was suggested by the painter, you'll have a nice looking mouldy mess.

Its never wet in there and humidity stays 20-60% (about 40% average) looking back at my home automation logs. The spikes in humidity appear when opening the garage.

 

[rancherbill]

Its never wet in there and humidity stays 20-60% (about 40% average) looking back at my home automation logs. The spikes in humidity appear when opening the garage.

I am really not from a humid area. I do not understand vapor barriers in the Southern US. It looks like humidity is in your wall and comes out under the paint.
HERE, from the outside of a wall there is siding, air barrier (Tyvek). Stud/insulation, vapor barrier (poly), then drywall. A primed and painted wall does not get a lot of moisture to peel the paint like your. I do not know what to say about your problem.