Fixing broken panel ground

[75gmck25]

When the electrician installed a new 200 amp panel he ran a large (1 gauge?) solid copper ground from the panel to the point inside the house where the water line enters the basement. There is also a new ground wire that runs outside to a several ground stakes.

While doing some demolition I accidentally cut the ground wire inside the house bout two feet before it is grounded on the copper water pipe entrance point. What is the best method to fix the break? I remember reading that this wire is supposed to be continuous from the panel to the ground point, but I assume there must be some approved way to splice the wire and fix my mistake.

Thanks,

Bruce

 

[pattenp]

Just use a split bolt and add a longer end to fix it. The grounding electrode wire to the rods is the one that needs to be continuous.

 

[Aceman]

The water pipe is a grounding electrode and just like rods, the wire must be continuous. Split bolts do not meet the requirements of 250.64(C)1.

For a diy'er without the proper crimping tools or exothermic molds to be able to splice it legally, the only code compliant method would be to run another wire from the panel to the water pipe.

 

[alfredeneuman]

The water pipe is a grounding electrode and just like rods, the wire must be continuous. Split bolts do not meet the requirements of 250.64(C)1.

For a diy'er without the proper crimping tools or exothermic molds to be able to splice it legally, the only code compliant method would be to run another wire from the panel to the water pipe.

+1

 

[wyliesdiesels]

The split bolt will work in a pinch but not code compliant. However, arguably the water pipe might only be a bond and might not be used as an electrode in the OPs case...

 

[RECox286]

What kind of material is the water pipe made of (in the ground

that is) copper, galv, poly ? It would seem to make a difference

in this case. If it is not metal, then it is not a "ground rod," No ?

Uncle Bob

 

[wyliesdiesels]

What kind of material is the water pipe made of (in the ground

that is) copper, galv, poly ? It would seem to make a difference

in this case. If it is not metal, then it is not a "ground rod," No ?

Uncle Bob

This is what i was alluding to but didnt expound on it. Thx

And a metal water pipe wouldnt be called a ground rod but instead a grounding electrode if it was being used as one...

 

[pattenp]

The water pipe is a grounding electrode and just like rods, the wire must be continuous. Split bolts do not meet the requirements of 250.64(C)1.

The split bolt will work in a pinch but not code compliant. However, arguably the water pipe might only be a bond and might not be used as an electrode in the OPs case...

Since the OP said he had a ground wire going to several ground rods I was assuming the ground wire to the plumbing was just a grounding bond.

 

[Norcal]

This is what i was alluding to but didnt expound on it. Thx

And a metal water pipe wouldnt be called a ground rod but instead a grounding electrode if it was being used as one...[/QUOTE

If metal underground water pipe exists it must be used as a grounding electrode.

 

[pattenp]

Now that everyone has made clear that a buried metal water supply pipe is to be used as a grounding electrode, I'll add that it also has to have at least 10 ft of direct contact with the earth. So if that's your case then the electrode conductor connected to the pipe needs to be continuous. Around here I see a lot of plastic pipe being used on the supply side.

 

[CNGsaves]

OP if you're doing other electrical work, you may be forced to update that ground to water line to most current code for your city. My local city code requires water line being grounded within 6 ft of entering the house ; when I upgrade my main panel I'll need to upgrade to that local code.

Call your AHJ / inspector's office and get the low down on grounding water lines in your city.

Fix it somehow now, but overall you may actually need a much longer continuous run to ground water pipe within 6 ft of entering the house to meet current code.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Normally it will be a continuous wire from the panel to street side of water service past the water meter if it inside the house,I also install a ground clamp on house side of the copper water service to bond it also.
That way if meter is removed youre still protected.

 

[Aceman]

OP if you're doing other electrical work, you may be forced to update that ground to water line to most current code for your city. My local city code requires water line being grounded within 6 ft of entering the house ; when I upgrade my main panel I'll need to upgrade to that local code.

Call your AHJ / inspector's office and get the low down on grounding water lines in your city.

Fix it somehow now, but overall you may actually need a much longer continuous run to ground water pipe within 6 ft of entering the house to meet current code.

I took this to mean the panel was recently replaced by a competent electrician with the grounding updated, I see no reason to involve the AHJ in a simple ground wire replacement:

When the electrician installed a new 200 amp panel he ran a large (1 gauge?) solid copper ground from the panel to the point inside the house where the water line enters the basement. There is also a new ground wire that runs outside to a several ground stakes.

 

[C96]

Just curious, did the electrician run a bond to the gas piping system?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Just curious, did the electrician run a bond to the gas piping system?

Its crazy how so many newer houses dont even have this done. This must have been required decades ago and yet i see house from the 60's 70's 80's and 90's missing this. Of course, gas 3-prong appliances such as furnaces, dryers and cooktops provide a grounding path for the gas line!

 

[CNGsaves]

I took this to mean the panel was recently replaced by a competent electrician with the grounding updated, I see no reason to involve the AHJ in a simple ground wire replacement:

Oh **** . . . you're right !! Duh, I must have been fixated on the next paragraph where OP said he demo'd some stuff and broke the ground.

My bad.

+1 to just Re-Run continuous ground to water line that electrician had installed.

SIDE NOTE: Previous house built new in '88 did not have any ground to NG black pipe steel (now the ex-wife owns). Now, my '55 built house has no ground for NG black pipe steel. Looks like more upgrades needed !!