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Fixing Peeling Paint

Mr onetwo

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Hey all, I am considering buying this truck.It is from Cali and very rust free.The 2 tone paint has peeled and I was looking for advice on the proper way to fix it so it looks better.This will be in my garage spraying with rattle cans or rolling and wet sanding.I have included the stock color chips.Fire away....:thumbup:
 

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wasfast

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San Diego CA
Even just doing the middle section will be a fair number of aerosol cans. I've bought 2 stage paint here previously and been satisfied:

https://www.66autocolor.com/touch-up-car-paint-s/320.htm

The can is preloaded with both parts. You activate a button on the bottom of the can and the 2 parts are then in contact and ready for shaking.

I'd definitely not use a roller.

You should have a warmish area to do the actual painting. An unheated garage in winter in Maine would not be that.
 

MoonRise

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NJ
Hmm, the peeling OEM paint means that there was a 'failure' with their original paint 'system'.

Which means that in order to ensure that YOU don't just put more paint on top of that original failed paint, you pretty much have to strip ALL the paint layers down to clean bare metal for a "proper" paint job.

Then you prep the metal to accept the primer.

Sand as needed, wipe clean.

Then you apply the primer.

Sand as needed, wipe clean.

Then you apply the top coat (color coat).

Sand as needed, wipe clean.

Then you apply the clear coat.

Sand and buff and polish as needed.

Oh, and that's a LOT of spray cans.

And as mentioned, spraying automotive paint in an unheated garage in Maine in the fall/winter just is NOT going to work.
 

jeepinerdeep

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South Central PA
Sanding and spraying Acme/Finish 1 base/clear would be my 1st choice on a truck like that. I really prefer doing it somewhat right now that I've done it some.

It you are just looking for a hillbilly job, sand down to whatever is stuck on there good and roll on some implement paint from tractor supply with a foam roller.
 

ilovevocs

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Toledo, Ohio
What Moonrise said. Have to remove the defective layer - for you it looks like just clear; then you need a primer sealer.

If you want to peruse this venture with limited tools and understand your investment will likely devalue the vehicle then please choose to paint it white. It’s the only color that will tolerate your current tools and Abilities. I’m firm believer that everyone’s first paint job should be white!
 

mda2000

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Tennessee
Ah, the old peeling Mopar. I think that was when they galvanized the panels but didn't get the primer to adhere properly. The only way is to take it all the way down. Not really for the faint of heart.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

manwithtools

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Ah, the old peeling Mopar. I think that was when they galvanized the panels but didn't get the primer to adhere properly. The only way is to take it all the way down. Not really for the faint of heart.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

This is correct, that vintage of Dakota had horrible adhesion problems. To fix it right is not worth the effort given the trucks age IMO. I'd be tempted to sand it until all the loose stuff is gone and then use the method of your choosing to recoat - know that it won't last any longer than the truck is likely to remain usable. How many miles and what drive train?
 
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Mr onetwo

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I bought the truck.180K....318/46RH 4x4, rebuilt transmission.Runs like a top, very clean interior and no rust of any consequence.It's a keeper for sure.After sanding down the peeling areas would etching primer help at all?
 
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Mr onetwo

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I see rust... Just no holes.
I don't:thumbup: If you think that is rust ,you obviously don't live 'round these parts.You will notice this example is a chebbie, not a Mopar!:beer:
 

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ilovevocs

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I bought the truck.180K....318/46RH 4x4, rebuilt transmission.Runs like a top, very clean interior and no rust of any consequence.It's a keeper for sure.After sanding down the peeling areas would etching primer help at all?



I would use a sanding primer / sealer.
 
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Mr onetwo

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If I bite the bullet and invest in the right primer/sealer and basecoat/clearcoat, what primer will prevent this peeling from occurring again.I will be doing only the silver center section, not a total respray so a qt. should be plenty.The dark areas are much smaller and I will just touch them up.I have a gun,big compressor and heat...just no money.:beer:
 

MP&C

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Leonardtown, MD
Hmm, the peeling OEM paint means that there was a 'failure' with their original paint 'system'.

Which means that in order to ensure that YOU don't just put more paint on top of that original failed paint, you pretty much have to strip ALL the paint layers down to clean bare metal for a "proper" paint job.

Then you prep the metal to accept the primer.

Sand as needed, wipe clean.

Then you apply the primer.

Sand as needed, wipe clean.

Then you apply the top coat (color coat).

Sand as needed, wipe clean.

Then you apply the clear coat.

Sand and buff and polish as needed.

Oh, and that's a LOT of spray cans.

And as mentioned, spraying automotive paint in an unheated garage in Maine in the fall/winter just is NOT going to work.


This, minus the spray cans.. :spit: But the clear can be sprayed after the base flashes without sanding in between. Although "as needed" covers that ..... :lol_hitti


It appears the only delamination was on the area sprayed in silver, which is the same color most of the auto mfrs of that era had adhesion issues with. IMO the entire thing needs to be stripped and start with epoxy primer. If I had to do a job like this in my shop it would be stripped to metal. You already have paint failure and have no guarantee it won't move elsewhere. The RIGHT way to do this is to strip it. Do it right, do it once. Plus, this give you the opportunity to spray the entire truck one color..... a proper Mopar color requiring sunglasses.
 
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Mr onetwo

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Thank you Robert!:bowdown::thumbup: mmm....maybe F6 Bright Green Metallic:bounce:
 

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p_mori7

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I would sand down quite a bit, then use a sandable primer/filler, sand down again, then get some tractor paint that ressembles the original color and go at it with a foam roller...3 or 4 light coats.

No need for a clear coat, it will buff to a nice gloss.

~Phil.
 
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