Flare Nut and Line Wrenches

[bczygan]

What exactly is the difference?

And what are the most needed sizes?

Bill

 

[DadsTools]

I'll let the professional mechanics answer the second part, since they are most qualified. As for the terminology, I have always understood them to be the same thing. Something like water-pump pliers being called by several other names. Or like the protrusion on a ratchet that receives the socket being called a stud, anvil or post (there's even another I can't recall at the moment).

 

[setfocus]

different terms for the same type of wrench

sizes depend on what you're working on

 

[richfinn]

Same thing, in England we don't really use the word "line"
as you do in the USA for this application, we would say brake/fuel/hydraulic pipe spanner!!!

I think the USA English wins on this one

But your completely wrong about "biscuits" that is just crazy talk

 

[2ndGearRubber]

different terms for the same type of wrench

sizes depend on what you're working on

Yup, same thing.


Most common use is brake fittings, larger tube nuts are better suited with flare nut crows feet and a ratchet.


But snapon. 8-14mm, and 3/16, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16. Pick which fits the rotted nut the best.

 

[bczygan]

Yup, same thing.


Most common use is brake fittings, larger tube nuts are better suited with flare nut crows feet and a ratchet.


But snapon. 8-14mm, and 3/16, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16. Pick which fits the rotted nut the best.

Automotive use mostly for me and maybe some machine rebuilding.

Would this list miss any needed sizes?

6mm x 8mm, 10mm x 12mm, 13mm x 14mm, 15mm x 17mm, 19mm x 22mm

1/4 in. x 5/16 in, 3/8 in. x 7/16 in, 1/2 in. x 9/16 in, 5/8 in. x 11/16 in, 3/4 in. x 13/16 in.

Bill

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Close enough. Has a bunch of rarely used sizes. Missing 9mm and 11. 9 is good for rotted 3/8. 11 is a euro size mainly.

 

[Wakefield]

Wright?
For the man who has everything,the Snap On double ended wrench that is extra deep/thick open end on one end and flare nut on the other end?

 

[PelicanPines]

Every time I went to use one... the flare wrench was too thick. I might sell my gearwrench set.

 

[Ralf11]

This is about the worst tool to try and save money on, BTW

I don't want to sound like a SnapOn ad, but they work well, don't kill the captive nut on brake lines, and fit - besides being widely available used.

Dunno re other brands

 

[bob15]

I have Snap On, Mac, Proto & Bonney tubing wrenches, both 6pt and 12pt. They all work equally fine.

 

[The Fall]

They're different terms for the same wrench. I have both SK and Snap-on sets. I would use them on old domestic cars (1940s-1970s) from the South. Some from the Gulf Coast. So, not the Rust Belt, but old and occasionally really rusty (Corpus Christi cars).

I couldn't tell the difference between my SK and Snap-on set, the latter purchased new with the student discount. I would get SKs or Snap-ons if they were the same price. But I would pass on everything else.

If it's too rusted to budge without turning the line as well -- usually when replacing wheel cylinders -- I'd just get the double-flaring kit out. It's not a big deal. Again, I would work on cars were nothing was preformed.

This question almost always gets this answer -- SK or SO -- and from my experience there's a reason for it. SK is a very good value.

 

[sberry]

7R and 11R for brakes.

 

[Kscardsfan]

Same tool with two different names. I have Matco and Armstrong flare nut wrenches with a few odds and ends craftsman duplicate sizes mixed in there. Need to find a set of metric ones soon.

 

[setfocus]

If it's too rusted to budge without turning the line as well -- usually when replacing wheel cylinders -- I'd just get the double-flaring kit out. It's not a big deal. Again, I would work on cars were nothing was preformed.

if there's enough space between the backing plate, hub and such, you can pull the wheel cylinder out a bit and spin it off the flare nut that's seized to the line. I've done that a few times, including on a '96 chevy k1500 I use to have

 

[plinker]

Most common for me is 10x12 & 3/8x7/16, other used as needed. Get Snap-on.

I have also bought a few of the Snap-on open end /flare end wrenches, I find them more useful the the normal line wrench at times. The open end is double the width of a normal open end. I've found that particularly useful as it's harder to get the wrench off center to where it rounds over.

If the tube nuts are corroded enough the line just gets replaced, so snip the tube and use a socket. Raptor type pliers can work on rounded tube nuts as well.

 

[plinker]

if there's enough space between the backing plate, hub and such, you can pull the wheel cylinder out a bit and spin it off the flare nut that's seized to the line. I've done that a few times, including on a '96 chevy k1500 I use to have

Done this as well, works about 95% of the time for me, though truck axle lines arent much to replace either (usually).

 

[bczygan]

Being in the rust belt, I usually break the line when removing it, so while having the proper tool might help sometimes with that, the real reason I want them is to install things correctly and safely.

Bill

 

[sberry]

A guy could make it on a 3/8 and a 10mm

 

[bczygan]

A guy could make it on a 3/8 and a 10mm

Thanks,

I've made it to 70 with nothing, so anything would be an improvement!

Bill

Did you get my link for wheel well liners?

 

[geartow]

if you are working on GM fuel filters I highly suggest a 20mm Line Wrench.

 

[joel63]

if you are working on GM fuel filters I highly suggest a 20mm Line Wrench.

Are those GM fuel filters with 20 mm fittings still being used on late model vehicles?

 

[sberry]

I work on a lot of ****. Do brake work on cars however I rarely use a line wrench, not never but so rare they are off to the side in their own drawer and not on the carts. A common end wrench installs just fine.

 

[Al Borland]

Have several sets of SK, (Old SK Wayne era and SK Fuc'em).
They don't work as well as my Husky ChiCom ones (spreading issues), but the ChiCom ones are fatter/thicker and don't always fit where i need them to.
Welcome to the rust belt, I guess.
Frequently, the line is rusted to the inside of the nut anyways, so break or cut the line and pound a socket on.

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

Yep same thing different name only. I have lots of different brands the only ones I have had issues with are the Harbor Freight have spread.


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[sberry]

There is some good consensus that the snaps are worth the juice on these. I am not all impressed with lots of the others, I have some Proto not a lot to brag on. Sears not good at all.
A career mechanic should have a full set, a guy servicing 1 or 2 diy could manage without them.

 

[rcbk00]

I have newer sets of Snap-On and Cornwell. They both fit great, but the ends of the Snap-Ons are a little less bulky. The main difference is that Snap-On sets pop up a lot more frequently on Ebay, so those are the ones I'd recommend buying. Flare nut wrenches are the one area where I do not skimp. Being able to get a rusty fitting apart can mean the difference between a small repair and an entire weekend's worth of work. I keep the Snap-Ons in the box in the garage, and the Cornwells stay in the car bag (I drive older, rusty cars and trucks). Like others have said, if you're already planning on replacing a section of hardline, cut the line you're going to replace and use a ratchet and socket on the fitting. If you're trying to avoid replacing hardlines, then good flare nut wrenches are a necessity to get things apart. In addition to good wrenches, patience, heat, and penetrating oil are your friends.

 

[sberry]

A torch is a must for old car work,, and if the bottles are empty it doesn't count as having one, scrap without gas. It makes up for a lot of other stuff. All the wrenches they make are not a substitute.

 

[wafrederick]

There are even the ratcheting flare nut wrenches out now,Tribus Tools makes them and not cheap to buy paying Snap On prices for them.One wrench is $80.00.USA made with a lifetime warranty

 

[GirchyGirchy]

Being in the rust belt, I usually break the line when removing it, so while having the proper tool might help sometimes with that, the real reason I want them is to install things correctly and safely.

Bill

Since it sounds like you're changing them out anyway, just cut them and use a 6-pt socket or open ended wrench to remove them instead. You can use the flare wrenches to tighten the new ones but it's often not necessary IME.

 

[wjamyers]

They're different terms for the same wrench. I have both SK and Snap-on sets. I would use them on old domestic cars (1940s-1970s) from the South. Some from the Gulf Coast. So, not the Rust Belt, but old and occasionally really rusty (Corpus Christi cars).

I couldn't tell the difference between my SK and Snap-on set, the latter purchased new with the student discount. I would get SKs or Snap-ons if they were the same price. But I would pass on everything else.

If it's too rusted to budge without turning the line as well -- usually when replacing wheel cylinders -- I'd just get the double-flaring kit out. It's not a big deal. Again, I would work on cars were nothing was preformed.

This question almost always gets this answer -- SK or SO -- and from my experience there's a reason for it. SK is a very good value.

This post convinced me to get this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TQ5136/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Arriving tomorrow by 9 PM... I'm in a hurry to fix my catastrophically-failed brakes.

thanks, Man!

 

[Dave455]

As others have said, different names for the same thing.

The British term was always “Flare Nut” spanner, I have my grandfathers tool box dating from the 1940’s, that has one of the drawers so marked.

With regards to size, definitely include an 11mm. Probably 90% of the times I need these in metric it’s 10 or 11 mm. I’ve used the slightly bigger metric sizes very occasionally, but the biggest metric sizes I never use. Maybe if you are working on big trucks or industrial hydraulics you might.

 

[Chaplian]

This post convinced me to get this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TQ5136/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Arriving tomorrow by 9 PM... I'm in a hurry to fix my catastrophically-failed brakes.

thanks, Man!

You’ll like them, I’ve used my SK metric flare wrenches on many corroded brake lines, I’d say 9/10 times they’ve worked. The times they didn’t, there wasn’t much nut left to turn anyway.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ralf11]

Hazet makes a bunch of bent ones

https://www.hazet.de/en/products/ha...t-wrench/3627/brake-line-wrench-open?c=128860

also you won't go blind when your trouble light flares off on the shiny, shiny polished chrome brands...

 

[bob15]

There are even the ratcheting flare nut wrenches out now,Tribus Tools makes them and not cheap to buy paying Snap On prices for them.One wrench is $80.00.USA made with a lifetime warranty

Looks like they expanded and/or modified the old Bonney/Cam Lok wrench

 

[bonneyman]

Looks like they expanded and/or modified the old Bonney/Cam Lok wrench

Got some of the ole Cam-Loc's. Kinda big profile so they don't always fit, but where they do fit they are sweet.