Flaring brake lines

[bora]

Hello Everyone

So this morning went to drive my van, and one of the brake lines were leaking so off to Nappa , to pick up some brake line , fluid and fittings .

I have the Cal-Van Tools 165 Master Inline Flaring Kit, I have the upgraded dies black steel , over the aluminum ones that came in the kit.

I was using steel brake line ( green coated) , as that’s all my Napa dealer had in my size.

Well in couldn’t get a single bubble flair correct. I went to Princess auto ( Canadian version of harbor freight) picked up a bubble flair kit it broke too but I managed to finish the job.



What do you guys use for flaring tools?? Many people on the web recommend the Cal van til. I guess I need the upgraded ( copper nickel line?)

Oh can some one recommend a decent flair wrench Mastercraft flair wrenchs are junk

Thanks everyone

 

[ToolPolisher]

I've not used the Cal Van Til - it looks pretty good. I've used the Rigid Ratcheting flare tool for some time with good repeatable results. It's pricey and not an engineering multi-piece project like the Cal, but simple and reliable for me.

Line wrench? Snap-on and be done. Search through the forum for the same results.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Buy nickle copper. It will never rust and flares like a dream; super easy to run too.

 

[plinker]

+1 for copper nickle line.

I have a couple Napa branded yoke type flare tools, bubble & 45*, had them for a long time, not sure of the part numbers off hand.

The one I use the most is an SUR&R model that makes quick work of flaring, It does not seem to work as well with steel line, Not a huge concern for ma as we dont use much steel line. Pricey, but worth it.
https://www.tooltopia.com/surr-auto-parts-ft351.aspx


Best flare nut wrenches are Snap-on (ebay for best deals), That said, I do have a Carlyle metric set, no issues there. Most of the time I'll snip the line off and use a socket if the nut is tight/questionable.

 

[bora]

Yeah I had to do the same, the flare wrench kept spreading . So as you said cut the line and removed it with a socket..

I’ll checkout Carlyle, but looks like I need to get a snap on set .


Thanks everyone for the advice !!!

Much appreciated

 

[cthulu]

I use this kit, manual benders for lines is brutal. Done multiple cars with this set as well as fuel lines for AN fittings where it goes from hard line to a female fitting. Never let me down and pretty consistent, play around with it a bit before you use it on good line to get a feel for everything.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YKIQ1Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Snapped-off]

I have a Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool similiar to this

It's not the exact kit but I don't remember what model mine is. It works very well though.

 

[6PTsocket]

I use this kit, manual benders for lines is brutal. Done multiple cars with this set as well as fuel lines for AN fittings where it goes from hard line to a female fitting. Never let me down and pretty consistent, play around with it a bit before you use it on good line to get a feel for everything.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YKIQ1Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Your Amazon link:" No longer available."

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[6PTsocket]

Before I had a bubble flare tool I found out that if you use a double flare tool and only partially make the second flare you get a passable bubble. After I got the bubble flare tool and compared the results I could have saved my money.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[mrobins297aaa]

I have a Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool similiar to this

It's not the exact kit but I don't remember what model mine is. It works very well though.

I have that one also and it works real nice

 

[isb cornbinder]

I have that Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool kit. It works perfectly every time. I have never regretted buying this tool. I also bought the Mastercool hydraulic crimping machine for hose fittings.
I made many double flare connections on my 1940 Ford. No leaks.

 

[Tonyuk]

Nicop flares like a champ, never had a problem with it.

 

[Showkey]

X5 on NiCop add the Eastwood flare tool

 

[Bretny]

I will 3rd or 4th copper nickle lines. Flare like butter with a ****** flare kit. Spend money on the lines not $300 for the tool to flare ****** steel line. Green, silver blue it will all rust again. Copper nickle dosnt have this problem.

 

[johninct]

X5 on NiCop add the Eastwood flare tool

Eastwood too!!

 

[isb cornbinder]

I like the look of the Eastwood flare tool. Sadly it was not available when I bought my Mastercool kit. The Eastwood tool looks less complicated.
I was not aware of the copper/nickel plated line. I will check to see if it is available in Canada. I/we have two truck projects planned for the near future.
Rusting brake line is something I have experienced. Rusting from the outside in is a real thing. I always use DOT5 silicone brake fluid to eliminate the possibility of the steel brake lines from corrosion on the inside.

 

[rlitman]

... I was not aware of the copper/nickel plated line...

Nicopp is a nickel copper alloy. It is not plated.

 

[isb cornbinder]

http://www.brakeconnect.com/4-reasons-to-use-cunifer-copper-nickel-brake-line
There is no doubt that NICOPP is an improvement over bare steel. There is lots of information on the internet that suggests copper can have a much slower and different reaction. The best suggestion for any brake system is regular maintenance which should include flushing and cleaning the outside of the lines.
You are correct on the alloy versus plating.

rlitman You and I joined this forum within a month of each other, 9 years ago. I was thinking that I was spending way too much time on here. I have 1726 posts. You have 14704. I am guessing you are retired.

 

[General Geoff]

Volvo has been using nickel-copper brake lines in their cars since 1976. When's the last time you saw rotted brake lines in a Volvo?


I've used nickel-copper as replacements for my truck and for a few friends, it is an almost magical material for the job. Super malleable, you can make nice bends with a water bottle or unopened soda can. And flares like a dream.

http://shadowflareindustries.com/photo/_data/i/upload/2016/09/27/20160927113620-7a9cf38b-**.jpg

 

[bora]

Definitely going to use copper /nickel line when do the next line.. From all the post seems well with the extra cost .

Does the Mastercool do steel lines?

Thank you all for the help .

 

[icthruu74]

I recently replaced every hardline on a car for my son (and wheel cylinders, and 2 flex lines too). It’s the first major brake line work I’ve done, and I have to say I would have done more myself if I knew how easy Nicopp is to work with. I mostly bent it by hand with the exception of a few tight bends (like little S shaped sections connecting the flex lines to the wheel cylinders).

I also debated on the Eastwood flaring tool and was finally ready to buy when the sale ended, so I decided to get the Mastercool. I ended up having to make a few flares on the car, which would have been impossible with the Eastwood.

 

[sberry]

I been at it a while, I use a simple general or Rigid set I had forever. If I can usually use off the shelf line I keep in stock, half a dozen or 10 pieces I collect once in a while with a couple unions I keep around. If it's close I am fine with it. I do keep a roll just in case all else fails.

 

[isb cornbinder]

My wife bought a Diesel Volvo station wagon in the 1980s. The Volvo had total brake failure on two occasions. I do not think a brake line failed. My wife did a great job of missing the cross-traffic as the Volvo went through with the E brake on. . The dealer took the car back and we bought an Oldsmobile 88.
I keep roll of brake line in the popular sizes I use. Bulk purchase is less expensive for a length.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Buy nickle copper. It will never rust and flares like a dream; super easy to run too.

Also called NiCopp, and NAPA usually stocks it. Pretty much any flare tool will work with it. You can bend it by hand with no kinks.

The ultimate brake flare tool : Eastwood Professional Brake Tubing Flaring Tool
Good second choice : Eastwood On Car Flaring Tool for 3/16 Tubing

 

[theoldwizard1]

I been at it a while, I use a simple general or Rigid set I had forever. If I can usually use off the shelf line I keep in stock, half a dozen or 10 pieces I collect once in a while with a couple unions I keep around. If it's close I am fine with it. I do keep a roll just in case all else fails.

Next time you need a roll, spend the extra an buy NiCopp !

 

[kctyphoon]

I made all new brake lines for my truck with a cheap kit from Napa. Basically the same clamp down style every cheap name sells.. i just used some vise grips to keep the 2 halves as straight as possible - and it worked.. most of the double flares dont need to be “picture perfect” i found.. the lines are soft enough that once you tighten the fittings down, they will basically bend and shape themselves where they need to be.

This was actually my first ever brake line.. i think i used a bottle and that cheap plier style HF brake line bender to make the shape.. i wound up buying their small handheld line/tubing bender afterwards, and honestly that seems like a much better way to go. Still haven’t used it, but its here if i need it again.

 

[pelletman]

Mastercool, it will do anything. Use nickel copper

 

[sberry]

Next time you need a roll, spend the extra an buy NiCopp !

I don't think I have used it, I understand it's good but I have replaced about 1 replacement in a career, most of it is to stuff with one wheel in the scrap yard already, not really rebuilding much with a long life ahead of it.

 

[John89]

I use nicopp and Eastwood flaring tool

 

[IndyGarage]

I just did a bunch of brake lines with both bubble and double flares.

My Eastwood tool broke awhile back - the blue clamping arm split open - I gotta call and get that fixed - it's not nearly as efficient with a c-clamp.

The only problem with it is that you have to hold it in a vise. Some of the lines needed to be done under the vehicle.

So I bought a Titan tool - which worked great. It's basically a single clamp block with a handle that clamps with two 10mm bolts. There is a threaded hole on the end. There is a positioner that threads into the hole and sets the position of the tubing before you clamp it down tight. Then there is a double ended forming tool that threads into the tool - op 1 bubbles it and op 2 forms the double flare. The only problem with the Titan is that it only works on a single size of tube.

 

[mrobins297aaa]

here's a few flares I've made with my mastercool.....push connects, bubble and double flares.
I haven't had any leaks but I haven't actually tried the push connects yet.

 

[Ancient Iron]

I have that one also and it works real nice

Well worth the money!!!!!!

 

[3 Gun Shooter]

Definitely going to use copper /nickel line when do the next line.. From all the post seems well with the extra cost .

Does the Mastercool do steel lines?

Thank you all for the help .

The Mastercool does steel lines no problem and does a nice job.

 

[jptbay]

So I bought a Titan tool - which worked great. It's basically a single clamp block with a handle that clamps with two 10mm bolts. There is a threaded hole on the end. There is a positioner that threads into the hole and sets the position of the tubing before you clamp it down tight. Then there is a double ended forming tool that threads into the tool - op 1 bubbles it and op 2 forms the double flare. The only problem with the Titan is that it only works on a single size of tube.

Thanks for the feedback. I just ordered one of these. Reviews look great. How did it do with bubble flares?

The one I bought looks identical, but is from Cal-Van. Part # 160.

 

[trackwelder]

Another mastercool fan here. Also use it for making GM push fit connections when repairing steel fuel lines with nylon

 

[IndyGarage]

Thanks for the feedback. I just ordered one of these. Reviews look great. How did it do with bubble flares?

The one I bought looks identical, but is from Cal-Van. Part # 160.

Yeah that looks like the same thing. It doesn't say anything about bubble flares on the package, but it makes very nice bubble flares in the first operation, which is the same thing my eastwood tool does.

They worked on my project on both steel and nicop lines

 

[Tool_Junkie]

The Mastercool does steel lines no problem and does a nice job.

Thanks for the update

 

[Dieselhammer]

So, a couple things. First, everyone here is absolutely right about copper lines being superior in every way. Second, and don't take this the wrong way, but i think you may be misusing that cal-van 165 tool. I used traditional tools for years and although they work, they were always a pain and especially so if doing it on a car or truck. Enter a month ago, i used the cal-van 165 and fell in love instantly, it's better than sliced bread, perfect flares quickly and easily! If i had to venture a guess i'd say you're not beveling the outside of your lines with a hand file before flaring.....

 

[jkesselr]

here's a few flares I've made with my mastercool.....push connects, bubble and double flares.
I haven't had any leaks but I haven't actually tried the push connects yet.

What kit do you have? Mastercool offers a bunch of different kits.

 

[toplessHO]

I don't think I have used it, I understand it's good but I have replaced about 1 replacement in a career, most of it is to stuff with one wheel in the scrap yard already, not really rebuilding much with a long life ahead of it

If I can usually use off the shelf line I keep in stock, half a dozen or 10 pieces I collect once in a while with a couple unions I keep around."


using unions on a brake like will put the other 3 wheels firmly in the scrap yard

Ive had the master cool set for many years,very good purchase