Flaring brake lines

[sberry]

What I mean is often use 2 long pieces and a union instead of making a long line. But,, I been at this a while, been only a handful of times I have spliced a line on a car over 40 years. This is why I really don't care much about how easy that is and after doing this a bit have mastered the simple flare tool.
If I worked in a brake shop would probably have something more convenient.

 

[signcrafter]

using unions on a brake like will put the other 3 wheels firmly in the scrap yard

Ive had the master cool set for many years,very good purchase

How will using a union put the car in the junkyard? A union is no different then the fitting at the master or at the caliper. You still flare the line and have the correct fitting to seal the line into the union. Unless you mean compression fittings, then yes I'll agree with you. But a threaded union accepting the correct double flare fitting isn't any worse then the fitting at a caliper.

 

[WagonHo!]

here's a few flares I've made with my mastercool.....push connects, bubble and double flares.
I haven't had any leaks but I haven't actually tried the push connects yet.

Very nice display of the different brake line flares.
What Mastercool kit do you use?
Thanks

 

[mrobins297aaa]

very nice display of the different brake line flares.
What mastercool kit do you use?
Thanks

71475-prc

 

[K13]

http://www.brakeconnect.com/4-reasons-to-use-cunifer-copper-nickel-brake-line
There is no doubt that NICOPP is an improvement over bare steel. There is lots of information on the internet that suggests copper can have a much slower and different reaction. The best suggestion for any brake system is regular maintenance which should include flushing and cleaning the outside of the lines.
You are correct on the alloy versus plating.

rlitman You and I joined this forum within a month of each other, 9 years ago. I was thinking that I was spending way too much time on here. I have 1726 posts. You have 14704. I am guessing you are retired.

Canadian Tire carries the NICOPP line around here.

 

[Tool_Junkie]

So, a couple things. First, everyone here is absolutely right about copper lines being superior in every way. Second, and don't take this the wrong way, but i think you may be misusing that cal-van 165 tool. I used traditional tools for years and although they work, they were always a pain and especially so if doing it on a car or truck. Enter a month ago, i used the cal-van 165 and fell in love instantly, it's better than sliced bread, perfect flares quickly and easily! If i had to venture a guess i'd say you're not beveling the outside of your lines with a hand file before flaring.....

Are you using a steel , or Nickel Copper line ? When i would use the tool for a bubble flare , it would not make a proper flare it would make a double ridge. ( i will try to post a pic)

Thanks.

 

[gearhead1]

The cheap ones are junk. I bought a Craftsman. Now that Craftsman is gone, I’d pony up for a Snap-on if I had to get a new set.

Only way I’d get a cheap one is if someone who had one could verify it works decent.

 

[IndyGarage]

Are you using a steel , or Nickel Copper line ? When i would use the tool for a bubble flare , it would not make a proper flare it would make a double ridge. ( i will try to post a pic)

Thanks.

Mine did that the first time - I didn't have the tube in straight and I don't think I had any lube on the tool. Subsequent flares were perfect.

 

[gnxtc2]

Just used my Mastercool to make 37* AN single flare for some stainless brake lines. Make the flare effortlessly.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[RV8guy]

I have a ROLO-FLAIR tool. Works great.

 

[finn]

I have the Eastwood hydraulic tool, but, for drivers, it’s quicker and less hassle to just buy the pre flared nicopp tubes that already have the fittings installed. The lengths available are usually close enough to make a relatively neat installation without getting precisely the stock length and clamping.

It’s not a restoration. It’s a driver.

And Sherry, I think I have run new lines three times in some places on my plow truck. The nicopp should be the final set, but there are still fuel lines to consider.

 

[sberry]

On older stuff I rarely put them in all those factory clips and even route them a little different. I agree with the close enough concept in many cases.