Floor finish

[red caddy]

I shared this in another forum,but got no responce, so I'll "ask the pro's"
Have any of you ever heard of or seen boiled linseed oil used as a sealer/finish on a concrete slab floor? I was told that 2 coats rolled on wet,48 hours apart, after a 30 day cure time for the slab, gives a non dusting,non slip, petroleum resistant finish, that is long wearing, and easily renewed. Opinions? thanks RED

 

[Luckydevil]

I've heard of it. Linseed oil is actually the main ingredient in making linoleum flooring.

A good link with some info... http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/inflin.shtm


Another link for you... http://www.beaverconcrete.com/corner2.html
"Sealing the Concrete

Scaling of sidewalks, driveways, and other exterior flatwork can be minimized. It is especially important in climates that experience severe cold weather that exposed concrete be sealed. A concrete sealer applied after thirty (30) days will help to prevent water from entering the concrete during autumn rains and will help to prevent the intrusion of de-icing salts tracked onto driveways during winter months. Most ready-mix concrete suppliers or building supply outlets have concrete sealers available. One of the most economical and easiest methods of sealing is to apply boiled linseed oil thinned with kerosene or mineral spirits of turpentine mixed approximately one part kerosene or turpentine to two parts boiled linseed oil. This treatment is usually applied either by spraying or by a squeegee in two applications. It should be noted that some brownness of the surface can be expected when applying boiled linseed oil to concrete."

Hope that helps.

 

[red caddy]

Good help

Hey Luke, thanks for the fast answer. I checked out those links and learned a lot, Seemes to me that linseed oil is the right stuff for outdoor applications, especially in the northern climes,(freez/ thaw de icers etc.) but down here in south florida,(the mildew capitol of the world) not such a great idea.
My shop going up now is block construction, 35 ft. X 60 ft with 13'4" wall height. My cement contractor recommends a 5 in mono pour floating slab, 5200 PSI mix, with double ( 18 in grid) # 3 rebar, tied every cross,plastic chairs,power trowell finish,water cure x 10 days, then hot saw a 15 X 17 ft grid pattern, and fill with urethane caulk. Then roll out 2 coats of good old thompsons water seal, until I live with it a while, see how it holds up with my traffic patterns,welding / cutting etc. then coat only the areas that I think will benefit from an epoxy finish, and use porch and deck paint on the rest, recoating as necessary.
Sounds to me like this guy knows his sh**, and his bid is very competitive with several other local contractors, 6 bids came in with a total spread of under $2400.00 Comments? thanks RED

 

[Luckydevil]

Sounds good. Before dropping that kind of money though I would ask for some references and to see some of his past work. It seems like lately I have been dealing with nothing but incompetant business owners who screw people over. Previous customers will give you the low down on the guy.

 

[OI812]

I am not a cement head so take the info and use it how you like. I do see very rigid specifications for job, since I do alot of state work and the specs are very ridgid.

Not sure what a "5 in mono pour floating slab" is. I know what a monolithic slab is. Most garage slabs are poured that way. Floating slab for a garage would also be typical.

"5200 PSI mix" that is a good strong mix. Most slabs I see are around a 3500 psi mix.

"double ( 18 in grid) # 3 rebar" Not sure if he is using wire mesh or a #3 rebar (I think a #3 is only 3/8" dia rebar) in a 18" square grid. I would find out. #3 rebar is really pretty lite stuff. If its going to be in a 18" square grid patter I would think at least #4 should be used.

"water cure x 10 days" that is the best way to cure concrete if they keep it covered.

"roll out 2 coats of good old thompsons water seal" this isn't even commercial grade sealant. There are alot better sealant out there then tompsons. I would check into it. I put a good commercial sealant on my driveway over 5 years ago and it is still holding up. If you are planning on painting or expoying the floor later on I would be careful about putting down a sealer. You might have binding issues if you try and do something else later on. Hope this helps.

 

[red caddy]

clairification for OI812

5 in mono pour is his shorthand for a 5 in thick monolithic pour, the slab will float about 3/4 inch on all 4 sides, from the stem wall, so I think I'm getting what you described.
All but one of the bidders spec'ed 5200 mix, as I will be using a 5K forklift and a roll around 4 post lift all over the shop, one guy wanted to pour the front half of the shop thinner to save money on mud, this seemed like a "penny wise, pound foolish" kind of deal to me, that only dropped the price about $ 1200.00. Not much savings for the increased risk of cracking. (my frame jig alone weighs about 1200 lbs )
The double 18 in grid was explained to me as a 36 in grid of #3 bar standing on 1 in chairs, with another 36 in grid overlaid, crossing the center of the lower grid.thus yielding an 18 in grid overall, separated by 2 in standoffs, I'm no mud guy either, but that looks like pretty good use of re-bar to me, not much of a cost increase to bump up to # 4 or 5 bar, what do you think?
The local buzz on sealing is to use thompsons,'cause it's short term good, and will not interfere with most coating systems after a light scuff and acid wash. sounds like a good way to go to me, comments?

 

[OI812]

Well I am no engineer and no concrete guy. I would think the higher the rebar # the better the strength. Seems to make sense. I think you have thought things through very carefully. Sounds real good to me. If I get a chance and I remember I will ask the cement heads at work about the #4 or #5. Just make sure if you are paying for a 5 inch slump you get a 5 inch slump. I guess what I am saying is most contractors order a certain slump, and then when the truck gets there they have them add water. It makes it flow easeir, that way they don't have to work there asses off. The jobs I am on they actually have a tester there to make sure the slump meet the specs.

 

[TOO Z MAXX]

Just for the info. The number on the rebar is how thick it is in 1/8 inch increments. #3 is 3/8", #4 is 1/2, #5 is 5/8" thick and so on.
#3 is probably good for the job you doing but going to #4 wouldnt hurt.

 

[1ownerT]

5 in mono pour is his shorthand for a 5 in thick monolithic pour, the slab will float about 3/4 inch on all 4 sides, from the stem wall, so I think I'm getting what you described.
All but one of the bidders spec'ed 5200 mix, as I will be using a 5K forklift and a roll around 4 post lift all over the shop, one guy wanted to pour the front half of the shop thinner to save money on mud, this seemed like a "penny wise, pound foolish" kind of deal to me, that only dropped the price about $ 1200.00. Not much savings for the increased risk of cracking. (my frame jig alone weighs about 1200 lbs )
The double 18 in grid was explained to me as a 36 in grid of #3 bar standing on 1 in chairs, with another 36 in grid overlaid, crossing the center of the lower grid.thus yielding an 18 in grid overall, separated by 2 in standoffs, I'm no mud guy either, but that looks like pretty good use of re-bar to me, not much of a cost increase to bump up to # 4 or 5 bar, what do you think?
The local buzz on sealing is to use thompsons,'cause it's short term good, and will not interfere with most coating systems after a light scuff and acid wash. sounds like a good way to go to me, comments?

With a double rebar mat with # 3's there is no need to increase the bar size, if it were a single mat then a larger bar would be needed.

I have heard mixed results with Thompsons, I have never seen it myself, couldn't say. A product that is getting great reviews around here is called (not sure of the spelling) Lapidolith, it penetrates the top 1/4" of the slab and ends up a very hard, clear, shinny surface. it is not affected by chemicals. It takes the surface of the concrete to wear in order for it to.

In an earlier post you mentioned the saw cut, if I read it correctly it would be after the 10 day water cure. I personaly would not wait that long to saw cut, most slabs have cracked by then. The purpose of the cut (control joints) is to control the cracking, the earlier the better. There are saws on the market now that allow you to cut right after finishing. This is generaly spec'd now with interior floor slabs.

Overall it sounds like you have a Contractor that is looking to do a good job for you.

 

[red caddy]

cut time?

Thanks for the input. My cement guy says he will cut the lines the morning after the pour, I didn't know that it could be done that soon, he agrees with you, sooner is better. thanks, RED

 

[Kevin54]

Red...most cut lines are done the next day. Once the floor is poured and power troweled it can be walked on that evening although I would not recommend it as any scuffing of the feet can damage it. Ask you concrete guy about burnishing the concrete. After he power trowels it, when it is startening to harden up he can use a little water sprinkled and power trowel it again. It seals the concrete a little tighter than just a standard power troweling. Also we use a product at work called Stone Coat. We get it thru Grainger. It is a sealer for concrete that will last up to a year depending on foot traffic. A 5 gallon container is approx $100. It goes on straight, looks like milk, dries clear. It leaves a shiny, waterproof coating that resist, oils, etc.