Framing problem

[fwillison]

By the way, the slab is perfectly level, not sure where the thought that the slab was sloped came from.

Fred

 

[theoldwizard1]

Glad things have worked out for you. Time to get very buddy-buddy with your local inspectors. Maybe you can convince them to stop by after work and do a walk through for a case of beer !


Years ago, I knew a guy who was having an expensive custom house built. He hired an independent inspector. He caught several framing error early on. Nothing structural, but the house would not have come out matching the blueprints.

I don't know how many time this guy checked things (all after hours) but the GC was rather ticked off, even though he was in the wrong, every time. The DC kept saying it was going to delay the final closing/move in date. My buddy didn't care, he was living at his parents house who were living at their FL home. Even if the parents did come back there was plenty of room in their 3,000+ sq ft house. GC got really pissed when my buddy called off the closing for the third time because the punch list was not done.

 

[bczygan]

Yes, but people that do this everyday have a different perspective and a rolladex of other's to call in to keep things on schedule. This guy sounds like the average homeowner, feels he's between a rock and a hard place at this point so is willing to put up with whatever because the wheels are in motion...progress is progress right? even if at the start of the job there are huge problems already...it'll get better right?? LOL We both know how this story will end from having to clean up these exact kind of messes, I do have some compassion for the OP and his situation, but I don't think most people realize tarps are cheap, and that they will be happier and money ahead cutting the head off the snake when it's already proven to be problematic, not once, but multiple times now.

Cut the losses now before they keep stacking up. This isn't a armchair quarterback situation where "we" all can tell a guy what to do from our lazy boy, it's just a fact of life. If the GC is already making excuses for this half baked, probably cheapest framing sub he could find...does anybody honestly think the rest of his "hand picked subs" are going to be any better?? They too will have now compounded problems to deal with since bad foundation+bad framing=everything else from here on out will be sheeot since everybody will be compromising to complete their tasks.

The old joke is finding a good finish carpenter is hard, because he's the last guy and must figure out a way to hide all the other trades hack jobs and make the job look legit. Been in that situation too, try doing stained crown on walls that are out of square, out of plumb, wavey...or doing doors and window casing on varying wall thicknesses around said opening that are also out of plumb/square, etc....it isn't fun.

You are right. Even in commercial operations, you have to give the sub a chance to correct his work, depending on local laws and the contract terms, before dismissing him. That's why a homeowner needs a good contract, and contractors who post cash bonds to guarantee the work. And when I say good contract, I mean one with all the phrases and clauses to define the quality of the work as well as you possibly can.
But then, you have difficulty finding inexpensive contractors who will sign it or even have bonding ability. The contractors who can and will, are the high tier, expensive ones. It's a constant war and balance.
And a homeowner is doing this for the first time. That's why they look for a GC to protect them.
Then the search for the best GC becomes paramount. The same problems apply here as well...

This job, because of expediency, will have to go with the same GC and subs. The owner will HAVE TO be more hands on and learn as he goes about the different trades. Fighting with and demanding better work from the GC and subs every step of the way. Something he is paying the GC to do...

Sad but true.

 

[Justanoldguy]

By the way, the slab is perfectly level, not sure where the thought that the slab was sloped came from.

Fred

Well I know.
These armchair critics here are no better than your GC.
They saw your first photo and saw the sloping floor and
never for one moment considered the photo was taken on an angle ...

 

[IHI]

Well I know.
These armchair critics here are no better than your GC.
They saw your first photo and saw the sloping floor and
never for one moment considered the photo was taken on an angle ...

No..pretty much common sense coupled with deductive reasoning.

Just about every garage slab has fall in it to expell water and melting snow, etc.
Looking at first picture with the extreme wall racking going on, anybody with any sense had to assume the framers went full retard...which obviously they did thanks to pics, so it was a safe bet to say the slab was just pitched and they simply built the wall and stood it up.

And to speak about armchair quarterbacking...how about coming into a 5 page thread where discussion took place, advice offered, problem was solved...nice

 

[Kevin54]

By the way, the slab is perfectly level, not sure where the thought that the slab was sloped came from.

Fred

That was me. A lot of slabs are poured with a fall in them for water drainage.

What I don't understand is how the contractor or builders got a wall that was racked that bad, when the sheets of OSB should have held it square

If they started in the corner with a square full sheet, flush with the edge, then it should have hit the studs square and along the top plate flush. Thats why when a lot of guys build a wall, or a long wall, you may see sheets of OSB on the corners only to hold it square.

 

[HoosierMark]

RE :Mr Mark. I just spoke to one of the attys involved in the case. He is going to look up the Indiana law for me. I think the point of the law is that the contractor has rights also. I hope you can fire people for incompetance and such things without a lot of hassle but the point in this case was that a mistake was made and they did not give the GC a chance to correct it before firing him. As in this thread, there was a problem but the contractor fixed it. The GC may have bought specific equipment or material for a job and it would not be fair to him to fire him before he can rectify the issue. My whole point was know the rules before giving advice that could be expensive to the person listening. I agree with stopping work until the issue is solved but firing is a little much without all the facts. Maybe it was a bad day or a new crew. I had some apartments built years ago and the GC hired a framing crew. They lasted a day and he spent the next two tearing their work down and doing it right. It would not have been fair to fire him without his haing to oppurtunity to fix the issue.

 

[buddyboy]

if the floor was true then the wall was built square on the ground

when it was time to lift the wall the boss musta went to wendys to get the guys lunch

the kids raised the wall, it got racked when they raised it. since the boss was not there to tell them what to do they musta eyeballed it or used a short level on it when they hung the sheathing.

the boss gets back with the lunch, boys are all done, lunch then miller time.

 

[my58]

Lots of great info here, However the best news is that Fred got the problem solved before it created more problems.

I know the people on this forum have helped me with knowledge dozens of times and I am always grateful. One of the greatest things besides the "know how" is the moral support knowing that I am not alone.

Fred, you are doing great!

 

[RDO23]

Glad it was all straightened out. I'm just starting the rehab of my garage on a house built in 1954... the walls and windows are far from straight/level/plumb - there has been lots of shimming and swearing going on so far.

Keep up the good work and the progress updates!

 

[fwillison]

Trusses going up:

 

[Zeke]

The problems always seem to start at the bottom and just get worse from there as everything is a cluster trying to correct for the initial problems.

I too guess the foundation is what is screwing up this wall.

How so? Plumb is plumb. That's why you rack the wall AFTER it's stood up. Even if the studs were on the wrong side of the line, it could have been saved up until the sheathing went on. The layout is wrong too, but it could be worked around.

 

[MrMark]

Not really. If you've ever seen walls built you always put on at least one sheathing panel to keep the wall square when you set it up. Back East they sheath the whole wall on the ground and tyvek it too before standing up. A good framer does not put walls up until he's figured out and corrected any minor foundational issues.

Racking the wall to make up for a crummy foundation sounds pretty crummy.

The best solution for a crummy foundation is not to rack the wall but to shim the plate. A racked wall loses its bearing on the sole plate.

Find someone else to follow around.

 

[Justanoldguy]

No..pretty much common sense coupled with deductive reasoning.

Just about every garage slab has fall in it to expell water and melting snow, etc.
Looking at first picture with the extreme wall racking going on, anybody with any sense had to assume the framers went full retard...which obviously they did thanks to pics, so it was a safe bet to say the slab was just pitched and they simply built the wall and stood it up.

And to speak about armchair quarterbacking...how about coming into a 5 page thread where discussion took place, advice offered, problem was solved...nice

Quote:
Originally Posted by fwillison View Post
By the way, the slab is perfectly level, not sure where the thought that the slab was sloped came from.

Fred

 

[Zeke]

Not really. If you've ever seen walls built you always put on at least one sheathing panel to keep the wall square when you set it up. Back East they sheath the whole wall on the ground and tyvek it too before standing up. A good framer does not put walls up until he's figured out and corrected any minor foundational issues.

Racking the wall to make up for a crummy foundation sounds pretty crummy.

The best solution for a crummy foundation is not to rack the wall but to shim the plate. A racked wall loses its bearing on the sole plate.

Find someone else to follow around.

If I've ever seen walls put up? I've been a general contractor since 1981 and in the trades since '68. You build your way and I'll build mine. My walls go up w/o any sheathing and when I bring all 4 corners into alignment, plumb, level and square, they get kick braced to straighten the plates and then get the roof. When that's all done and checked, then the Struct 1 plywood goes on and not before. In fact, I'd like to see the roof loaded before covering. I don't build mobile homes.

I've had changes in openings and other items come up and it's a hell of a lot easier to make the framing changes and repairs before sheathing. People here often don't know **** about building like the guy that wanted to know where the blocking was on 8' walls that were going to be covered with sheathing. I might put a couple of blocks at a door before plywood, but putting blocking in exterior walls to be covered is redundant.

If you don't believe me, go watch a tract go up. It's often another crew that does the plywood. It almost always is in the case of the roof sheathing.

 

[fwillison]

I was at the jobsite watching the trusses go up. No one had a copy of the bracing instructions from the truss manufacturer, and they looked at me funny when I asked. I called the company and had them email the diagrams and instructions, then printed copies and gave to GC and framing sub. They said "oh we do it this way, not that way". The instructions were engineering diagrams. I insisted and they agreed to follow them "as close as they could". That is reasonable since the diagrams were generic and my attic trusses could not be braced exactly the way shown, though certainly pretty close.
If I wouldn't have gone to all that trouble, who knows what would have been done.

Next up, I noticed they are not using ring shank nails to attach the OSB sheathing to the exterior walls. Looks like they stapled it then added framing nails, but it doesn't look like enough to me, and I doubt they followed any kind of standardized pattern. I have a buddy that does remodeling work and he made the remark to me when I asked him about my wall problem that removing the OSB would probably damage it because of the ring shanks used to hold it on. My GC said "we've never used them". My google research seems to support ring shanks.

What should I do, am I micromanaging now?

I'm concerned because the buildings wind resistance seems heavily dependent on the sheathing given the lack of any interior walls.

Fred

 

[4x4_G30_Sportvan]

Found this out.

Oklahoma doesn't license resident construction contractors, except in the electrical, mechanical and plumbing trades.

So anyone can be a GC.

 

[Sureshot]

If I've ever seen walls put up? I've been a general contractor since 1981 and in the trades since '68. You build your way and I'll build mine. My walls go up w/o any sheathing and when I bring all 4 corners into alignment, plumb, level and square, they get kick braced to straighten the plates and then get the roof. When that's all done and checked, then the Struct 1 plywood goes on and not before. In fact, I'd like to see the roof loaded before covering. I don't build mobile homes.

I've had changes in openings and other items come up and it's a hell of a lot easier to make the framing changes and repairs before sheathing. People here often don't know **** about building like the guy that wanted to know where the blocking was on 8' walls that were going to be covered with sheathing. I might put a couple of blocks at a door before plywood, but putting blocking in exterior walls to be covered is redundant.

If you don't believe me, go watch a tract go up. It's often another crew that does the plywood. It almost always is in the case of the roof sheathing.

Not to argue but what will it hurt to sheet the walls on the ground?
I built all my walls(26'x10' of 2x6) myself stacked on my slab and sheeted them so when I got help all we had to do was set the walls in place, finish the top sill, and put up trusses. Worked great and things went super smooth and quick for my limited time free help. I did the grade beam myself and new it was perfectly level and within 1/8" of square.

OP I think you need to keep an eye on them until you see an good point to let the GC go.

 

[IHI]

Not to argue but what will it hurt to sheet the walls on the ground?
I built all my walls(26'x10' of 2x6) myself stacked on my slab and sheeted them so when I got help all we had to do was set the walls in place, finish the top sill, and put up trusses. Worked great and things went super smooth and quick for my limited time free help. I did the grade beam myself and new it was perfectly level and within 1/8" of square.

OP I think you need to keep an eye on them until you see an good point to let the GC go.

Essentially it creates a false positive. Sheeting on the slab and standing does not account for slab, block, or poured curb variations. .and as awesome as the arm chair builders are in here I have never and suspect will never see a perfectly flat and true surface for which a mud sill/btm plate rests on. Its much easier to level, plumb, and square a structure once standing than it is to do after sheeting.

The only time I sheeted and stood walls was when doing second story or first floor over cdawls space or basements..simply because we did the hard work and got everything squared away doing the floor joints so I knew we had a perfect base to build on.

Your building won't come crumbling down due to smooth shank nails being used. All colleted nails have a glue on them that when driven heats up and activates then adheres itself into the wood...micro managing? You got burnt once..from here to completetion you earned the right to question everything

 

[sweetcretin]

I was at the jobsite watching the trusses go up. No one had a copy of the bracing instructions from the truss manufacturer, and they looked at me funny when I asked. I called the company and had them email the diagrams and instructions, then printed copies and gave to GC and framing sub. They said "oh we do it this way, not that way". The instructions were engineering diagrams. I insisted and they agreed to follow them "as close as they could". That is reasonable since the diagrams were generic and my attic trusses could not be braced exactly the way shown, though certainly pretty close.
If I wouldn't have gone to all that trouble, who knows what would have been done.

Next up, I noticed they are not using ring shank nails to attach the OSB sheathing to the exterior walls. Looks like they stapled it then added framing nails, but it doesn't look like enough to me, and I doubt they followed any kind of standardized pattern. I have a buddy that does remodeling work and he made the remark to me when I asked him about my wall problem that removing the OSB would probably damage it because of the ring shanks used to hold it on. My GC said "we've never used them". My google research seems to support ring shanks.

What should I do, am I micromanaging now?

I'm concerned because the buildings wind resistance seems heavily dependent on the sheathing given the lack of any interior walls.

Fred

When we told you to can the GC, this was why. You're the GC now. The guy who's getting paid is just there to collect the checks.

 

[Justanoldguy]

If I've ever seen walls put up? I've been a general contractor since 1981 and in the trades since '68. You build your way and I'll build mine. My walls go up w/o any sheathing and when I bring all 4 corners into alignment, plumb, level and square, they get kick braced to straighten the plates and then get the roof. When that's all done and checked, then the Struct 1 plywood goes on and not before. In fact, I'd like to see the roof loaded before covering. I don't build mobile homes.

I've had changes in openings and other items come up and it's a hell of a lot easier to make the framing changes and repairs before sheathing. People here often don't know **** about building like the guy that wanted to know where the blocking was on 8' walls that were going to be covered with sheathing. I might put a couple of blocks at a door before plywood, but putting blocking in exterior walls to be covered is redundant.

If you don't believe me, go watch a tract go up. It's often another crew that does the plywood. It almost always is in the case of the roof sheathing.

Well said. I'm with you there.
Been in construction since '68 as well.

 

[Justanoldguy]

Not to argue but what will it hurt to sheet the walls on the ground?
.

Putting up trusses and roofing first will load up the framing so all studs are carring weight evenly as it was designed to do.
Sheeting first pretty much loads up the sheet and can cause buckling/twisting if bottom plate is not loaded to concrete.
Might seem like a small point but down the track a bit things may move.

 

[MrMark]

I use these. You should too for your winds.

http://bostitchmediakit.com/constru...ments-in-both-collation-and-code-recognition/

You can't pull them out - at all.

A lot of this is new stuff. Ignore the retired tract house guys.

Here's some guys who actually do build walls - see what they say:

http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?20608-Wall-Sheathing-before-raising-walls

http://books.google.co.in/books?id=...&q=house wrap and sheath wall on deck&f=false

 

[Justanoldguy]

Ignore the retired tract house guys.

At your peril of course.

There are obvious benefits to either way.
The benefit to sheeting first is umm ...... none

Well here in NZ we can't sheet first as Inspection
has to be done on all framing before the sides are lined, inner and outer.
And this includes a moisture content test on the framing too.
So I guess there is a well founded reason for that...

 

[Kevin54]

Not really. If you've ever seen walls built you always put on at least one sheathing panel to keep the wall square when you set it up. Back East they sheath the whole wall on the ground and tyvek it too before standing up. A good framer does not put walls up until he's figured out and corrected any minor foundational issues.

Racking the wall to make up for a crummy foundation sounds pretty crummy.

The best solution for a crummy foundation is not to rack the wall but to shim the plate. A racked wall loses its bearing on the sole plate.

Find someone else to follow around.

If I've ever seen walls put up? I've been a general contractor since 1981 and in the trades since '68. You build your way and I'll build mine. My walls go up w/o any sheathing and when I bring all 4 corners into alignment, plumb, level and square, they get kick braced to straighten the plates and then get the roof. When that's all done and checked, then the Struct 1 plywood goes on and not before. In fact, I'd like to see the roof loaded before covering. I don't build mobile homes.

I've had changes in openings and other items come up and it's a hell of a lot easier to make the framing changes and repairs before sheathing. People here often don't know **** about building like the guy that wanted to know where the blocking was on 8' walls that were going to be covered with sheathing. I might put a couple of blocks at a door before plywood, but putting blocking in exterior walls to be covered is redundant.

If you don't believe me, go watch a tract go up. It's often another crew that does the plywood. It almost always is in the case of the roof sheathing.

Zeke....you know me and I have never disputed what you have said. And maybe it's a West Cost East Coast thing, but I'm with MrMark. Around here they will either sheet an entire wall on the concrete or floor of a house, then stand the wall up. They take the rack out of it before it is ever set. That's what I said what I did above. It is a rarity anymore to see someone frame a house, then go back and add the sheeting afterwards.

 

[CharlestonJoe]

I was at the jobsite watching the trusses go up. No one had a copy of the bracing instructions from the truss manufacturer, and they looked at me funny when I asked. I called the company and had them email the diagrams and instructions, then printed copies and gave to GC and framing sub. They said "oh we do it this way, not that way". The instructions were engineering diagrams. I insisted and they agreed to follow them "as close as they could". That is reasonable since the diagrams were generic and my attic trusses could not be braced exactly the way shown, though certainly pretty close.
If I wouldn't have gone to all that trouble, who knows what would have been done.

Next up, I noticed they are not using ring shank nails to attach the OSB sheathing to the exterior walls. Looks like they stapled it then added framing nails, but it doesn't look like enough to me, and I doubt they followed any kind of standardized pattern. I have a buddy that does remodeling work and he made the remark to me when I asked him about my wall problem that removing the OSB would probably damage it because of the ring shanks used to hold it on. My GC said "we've never used them". My google research seems to support ring shanks.

What should I do, am I micromanaging now?

I'm concerned because the buildings wind resistance seems heavily dependent on the sheathing given the lack of any interior walls.

Fred

This thread has gone all over the place, I'm almost scared to input anything!
It sounds like the inspectors there in your area are pretty slack. The GC has been getting away with all kinds of things. I would keep doing what your doing and oversee every step along the way. Its a shame you have to, but at this point....with your time restraints and everything you have going on...
Yes it should have ring shank nails, will the building fall down without them, no. The wind shear rating is less with the regular nails, but if a tornado comes through, the tornado won't care which nails were used. Now, don't take me wrong anybody! I'm not saying he should take whatever **** they are giving him! If you can get them to shoot ring shank nails in, great.
Is there a sheathing inspection there?
It maybe mentioned in here somewhere but I missed it. What kind of siding is going on?
You are going to have to get ahead of your slack GC and have everything ready, nailing patterns for roof sheathing, shingles, whatever siding, etc etc
With your timid GC, he should at least tell his subs or crews that you are a PIA homeowner and everything needs to be right, because you write the checks! Who cares if he or his crews think your a PIA, you want a building built right!!!
Have you called the building inspection department and gotten any feedback? What inspections will your building get and how your GC can get away with what he does or doesn't do?

 

[Daniel Dudley]

I frame many ways because my jobs are so diverse, and because I have built in many states. In the end, it is the results that matter.

The secret ingredient is the care and attention that you put into a building, and it doesn't matter who is responsible for that, as long as someone is willing to hold everyone accountable for the end result.

I have supervised many, many million dollar jobs, and I have told many tradesmen the following. It is only a mistake if you LEAVE it.

Once you fix it, it is no longer a mistake.

Kudos to the OP for speaking up before it was too late. Stay vigilant, and you will no doubt get a building you can be proud of, and learn a lot in the process.

 

[fwillison]

It maybe mentioned in here somewhere but I missed it. What kind of siding is going on?
Hardi-Plank fiber cement board lap siding

You are going to have to get ahead of your slack GC and have everything ready, nailing patterns for roof sheathing, shingles, whatever siding, etc etc
I'm afraid you may be right, but it really *****. I am no expert, I am an "internet expert" which is nowhere close to the real thing. I would hate it if someone did that to me in my real job, but then again I would provide a professional service and there is no way a layman would be more knowledgeable than me about my profession. If that ever occurs, it's time wake up and realize you ****. Either up your game or find a new line of work.

Have you called the building inspection department and gotten any feedback?

Yes I talked to the building inspector about my wall problem. A framing inspection will be done soon. However, he said the inspection is for code and safety issues, not quality per se.

Thanks for the feedback

Fred

 

[Zeke]

Zeke....you know me and I have never disputed what you have said. And maybe it's a West Cost East Coast thing, but I'm with MrMark. Around here they will either sheet an entire wall on the concrete or floor of a house, then stand the wall up. They take the rack out of it before it is ever set. That's what I said what I did above. It is a rarity anymore to see someone frame a house, then go back and add the sheeting afterwards.

Nothing is perfect and a lot of dynamics come into play when framing. Loading the walls has been discussed. Let'd turn to corners. If you stand 2 adjacent walls perpendicular to make the corner, if one is an 1/8th off, the other wall will lean by that 1/8th. If by some chance both are off an 1/8th causing the corner to stand open, it will be open by almost a 1/4". Double the numbers, double the gap. Repeat the mistake in another corner and the building will be out of square by almost an inch. You can imagine what that would do to notched trusses.

Now not many structures have only 4 corners like many garages. There are alcoves and bumpouts and all have to be plumbed and squared. Since nothing is perfect, one has to adjust (or eliminate mistakes as posted above) as one goes. Installing rigid sheathing on the ground makes that process more difficult.

Bringing the type of fastener into the subject is a diversion tactic. Nowhere is more attention paid to fasteners and the nailing schedule than in CA. Depth of nailing is ever as important as spacing. Sink them into the wood at all and you fail inspection. It has nothing to do with standing up walls.

I could go on but I'll give it a rest. I'd like to see how the OP is making out with his hatchet men.

 

[Kevin C]

Depth of nailing is ever as important as spacing. Sink them into the wood at all and you fail inspection. It has nothing to do with standing up walls.

Especially true in earthquake zones or areas with high winds. The inspectors for my shop were very concerned about hold downs, nail types, nailing patterns and nail depth.

One other tip... Make sure your GC used galvanized nails / fasteners to hold nail the sheeting to the pressure treated plate. Unless he is using stainless

 

[fwillison]

Trusses are all up.
The gaps you see are for dormers, to be constructed.
I'm excited despite the hassles!

 

[CNGsaves]

OP, how about posting up a BUNCH of interior pics of corners, windows, garage door openings, etc??

Might as well get some free GC from Zeke as your GC seems like total greenhorn or patsy (what legit GC would EVER blindly support sub when wall is racked as poorly that homeowner discovered)!! As homeowner you should NOT have to instantly become expert on concrete work and framing, but your GC is so piss poor that's exactly what's happening.

Push your thumb down HARD on GC requiring him to provide you timely QUALITY checks where GC is emailing/texting you pictures and feedback on quality checks he is doing on-site. If GC refuses to provide those to you, it tells a pretty good story that GC is NOT checking the subs work!! Also, this sets the stage that homeowner should short-pay the GC for his "supervision" fee when the homeowner has been the one doing this function anyway.

Good luck rest of build. Squeeky wheel gets the grease !! SCREAMING wheel gets the new wheel bearing !! Your GC is not even hearing the screaming wheel bearing !!

 

[Zeke]

OP, how about posting up a BUNCH of interior pics of corners, windows, garage door openings, etc??

Might as well get some free GC from Zeke as your GC seems like total greenhorn or patsy (what legit GC would EVER blindly support sub when wall is racked as poorly that homeowner discovered)!! As homeowner you should NOT have to instantly become expert on concrete work and framing, but your GC is so piss poor that's exactly what's happening.

Push your thumb down HARD on GC requiring him to provide you timely QUALITY checks where GC is emailing/texting you pictures and feedback on quality checks he is doing on-site. If GC refuses to provide those to you, it tells a pretty good story that GC is NOT checking the subs work!! Also, this sets the stage that homeowner should short-pay the GC for his "supervision" fee when the homeowner has been the one doing this function anyway.

Good luck rest of build. Squeeky wheel gets the grease !! SCREAMING wheel gets the new wheel bearing !! Your GC is not even hearing the screaming wheel bearing !!

I don't know if I deserve the mention as many don't agree with me. I know the last job I supervised I ran off 2 different framing outfits. They were doing stuff similar and going so fast I couldn't fix the mistakes fast enough working a couple of hours a day past quitting time. I finally called a time out and said don't come back.

I'll also add that a lot of SoCal houses are split level. So standing a fully assembled wall is very impractical. Again, garages and out buildings are one thing. Homes where cabinets have to be hung, large floor tiles or wood floors installed and that sort of thing call for very straight construction. If I were to place any ply on a wall before standing, it would have no more than 6 nails and they would be duplex.

Plans for building here show the placement of every exterior panel along with the nailing schedule. All edges fall on 3 x 4 studs or 4 x posts. Each post is in a hold down situation from an HD 5 and up. The last addition I did in Beverly Hills was only 250 sq ft., 2 story. The lumber cost $16K and we used $4000 in hardware before we could wrap it and insulate it.

This is different than your little shop on the prairie.

 

[davedriveschevys]

Titan HD's are OK, but epoxy anchors are way better by tension load tables. The worst are the expanding anchors. Just because something is allowed by some local code doesn't mean it's quality. Code is a minimum standard, not aspirational.

********.
The wood plate will fail long before a properly installed Titen HD will. Period.

 

[Zeke]

********.
The wood plate will fail long before a properly installed Titen HD will. Period.

Minimum depth for an anchor here is 18". Most are 3/4" all thread but 7/8ths and 1" are not uncommon. And they need a J hook built in or a bottom flange.

We can use a few post concrete pour epoxy anchors when they get missed on the initial layout. A registered deputy inspector has to be present during the installation of all concrete epoxied anchor bolts. So you try not to miss them.

I haven't seen the Titen product listed on the L.A. City Dept of Engineering and Testing sheets. If it isn't listed, very few places in CA will allow it.

Sorry, I just found it: 8 The use of anchors is limited to dry, interior locations. It goes on to say that the 3/4" anchor is to be embedded 6" and over 6" from any concrete edge. Sorry, this system won't work here except to hang pipes and the like.

 

[Sureshot]

I am not sure if Cali and LA code is what everyone wants to use. Sounds a bit over the top but I guess if you all cram in one area the **** falls like dominos in an earthquake. Glad to be out here. No inspection done on anything.

 

[KnurledNut]

Glad to see progress, and the fix. Mistakes happen.

It might help to get to know the crew personally.

A box of donuts in the morning or a little beer money slipped in their pouch at the end of the day go a long way in general laborers attitude.

Ive been there.

 

[fwillison]

Here's the floor plan, for those interested. I'll post pics of the interior tomorrow if I can get decent shots.
I designed it on www.floorplanner.com, very easy to use.

The second floor will be attic only initially. I'll use it for storage, but I stubbed out for a bath and will have the option of finishing for an upstairs apartment.

 

[rancherbill]

I like your floor plan. Just be careful varmints, in-laws, adult children, etc don't move to the upstairs.